Looking through the Yunlin poetry manuscripts, it is often possible to see foods such as "zhenxi" and "chicory", which are used in the gift of remuneration and singing. "Send Zhang Jingzhao" cloud "rice cooked on the raft, pine mash recommended chrysanthemum", "April visit Heng Qi Gaoshi" cloud "bamboo shoots pine mash three days drunk, Xishan in sight has woken up". In the vernacular, it is a dried pickle with bamboo shoots, accompanied by a meal, and has a unique flavor.
Wang Jiqian's old collection of "Junshi Qiaoke" is a scroll, which is now in the Cleveland Museum of Art in the United States, with a self-titled seven poems, and also has the word "筍脯": "Xiao Xiao wind and rain Mai Qiuhan, the pen copying strong self-forgiveness, Still relying on Wujun to comfort each other, loose dishes to persuade to add meals." "On April 17, in the wind and rain□□ Maoyi brought wine and dishes to pay each other in the evening festival Xuan, because he wrote Junshi Qiao Ke and wrote a sentence. Yun Linzi, Zhen. The first two words of "Maoyi" should be the name of the recipient, which is a poem of thanks.
"Stone Joko", Cleveland Museum of Art, USA
In the books of friends and friends in the same period, there are also many contents of rewards and gifts, such as Mr. Yi Zhai's gift of horse breasts and dried squid, and Yunlinzi said "YouPei Shengxin".
These things are either wind wax food or pickled side dishes, why is this so? I am afraid that this is inseparable from Yunlin's lifestyle in his later years.
Ni Zhan, a native of Wuxi, was born in the tenth year of Dade (1306). The family was originally very generous, and the Ming and Qing dynasties talked about the rich families in Jiangnan at the end of the Yuan Dynasty, and often threw them out alongside Gu Aying and Shen Wansan. Unfortunately, in the Jiangnan region at that time, the official rent was heavy, and the rich and powerful were often the most exploited. In the fifteenth year of Zhengzheng (1355), Yunlin was fifty years old, and simply abandoned his family business, dressed up and retreated, and avoided living in the rivers and lakes. Because it is often between lakes and lakes, fresh vegetables may not be served, and dried meat pickles are good for cooking.
The National Library of Beijing has a banknote of the "Yunlintang Diet System Collection", and Mao Jinji's old banknotes are included in the sub-department genealogy of the "Four Libraries of Continuation", which talks about the preparation method of Yunlin's daily diet, and there are also several pickles.
For example, "vinegar shoots" is "with bamboo shoot juice, add white plum sugar frosting or white sand sugar, ginger natural juice a little, blend and taste." When the cooked shoots are drowned, it is cold. Don't stay long".
Another example is "bad ginger", "clean cloth to remove the young buds." Mix well with one and a half pounds of ginger and one and a half pounds of sautéed salt, that is, into the bottle, sauté a little grits with salt, and seal it."
"Continuation of the Four Libraries" this "Yunlintang Diet System Collection" "vinegar shoots", "groove ginger" strips
These small dishes are simple to make and easy to store, and are suitable for life on the lake. In addition, what else is there that is inexhaustible on the lake, of course, river fresh! The "Collection of Dietary Systems of Yunlintang" contains rich river fresh methods, such as honey stuffed cockroaches, boiled crab method, wine boiled crab method, new method clams, cockles, shrimp rolls, Mr. Xiangluo, Jiang Yao, anchovies, field snails, boiled carp, crab turtles, turtle belly soup, and so on.
Let's choose a few things, honey stuffed cockroaches, "boiled in brine, only to change color and fish." Break open and leave the whole shell. The claws come out of the flesh, and the strands are chopped into small pieces. First, the upper pieces are arranged in the shell, stirred well with a little honey into the chicken bomb, poured through, and then steamed on the chicken bomb with paste. Chicken bullets are dry and condensed, and cannot be steamed. Orange and vinegar offerings".
"Honey stuffed cockroach" strip
Cockroaches, Song Gao like Sun 'Crab Sketch' load, belongs to the pike crab family and is different from the pike crab, the cockroach has a paste and the pike crab has no paste, Dongpo Shiyun: "Half shell contains yellow Yi point wine, two claws xue xue persuasion to add meals", then the double claws are also succulent. Nowadays, there are people who interpret "cockroaches" as pike crabs, and pike crabs have no anointing, and the "anointing" after that has to be released as lard, but in fact, this anointing is the property of the cockroaches themselves.
Orange, that is, orange is finely shredded or mashed, and served with vinegar, which the ancients used to match raw fish and shrimp and crabs.
Green shrimp roll, "raw shrimp, remove the head, shell, leave a small tail." Use a small knife to thin batches, from the head to the tail, and the meat should not be broken. Flooded with shallots, peppers, salt, wine, and water. Crush the juice with the head and shell and remove the dregs. Stir the shrimp meat in the juice. After clarification, into the bamboo shoot slices. Bad ginger slices for. Yuan juice, no spicy, wine does not need much. Cooked".
"Green shrimp roll" strip
That is, live shrimp remove the head, shell, leave the tail, flat into thin slices without breaking the tail, and then marinate. Then use the head and shell that have been peeled off before to crush the boiling juice, remove the slag, put in the sliced shrimp meat, and blanch it slightly. The shrimp soup is clarified and boiled with bamboo shoot slices. Serve bad ginger slices.
Crucian carp belly soup, "With raw crucian carp small, break the belly to remove the intestines." Cut the belly into two slices and simmer with green onion, pepper, salt and wine. The posterior abdomen is connected like a butterfly. Use the head, back and other meat to boil the juice and fish out the meat. Fill it with a basket or hedge in the belly and blanch it with juice. Warm, tweezers out of the bone. Mix peppercorns or peppercorns and sauce. The juice is caught as clear as water, and it is served with vegetables or bamboo shoots."
"Crucian carp belly soup" strip
The process is slightly the same as the previous method. Take a small crucian carp, scratch the fattest part of the belly of the fish, connect it to the back, shaped like a butterfly, and use it for salting. Then use the fish head and fish back to boil the soup and fish out the fish meat. Bamboo colander fills the fish belly, puts into the soup less blanched, warms it up slightly, tweezes out the fish bones, and adds condiments to mix. The fish soup is clarified and cooked with vegetables or bamboo shoots.
The rest of the clams, cockles, Jiang Yao, carp, and eel are nothing more than wine cooking. The snails are pickled in sugar or pepper and stirled in chicken juice. There are three crab methods, and the commonly used method is probably boiled, that is, ginger, perilla, cinnamon, salt boiled together, swirling boiling and swirling.
In addition to the river fresh, there is also a blind roast goose in the book, the most widely circulated, "Suiyuan Food List" is loaded, slightly detailed, is the reason for the "Food List" to be transferred:
A whole goose, after washing, rub the inside of its abdomen with salt and three coins, stuff it with a broom of green onions, and coat it with honey wine. A large bowl of wine and a large bowl of water are steamed in the pot, and the bamboo frame is used to prevent the goose from approaching the water. The stove is made of two bunches of mountain grass, and it is slowly burned to the degree. After the lid of the pot is cold, open the lid of the pot, turn the goose over, still seal the lid of the pot and steam it, and then use a bunch of firewood to burn out. Chai Qi committed suicide and could not be provoked. The lid is sealed with cotton paper paste, forcing the cracks to dry and moisten them with water. When the pot is cooked, not only is the goose rotten like mud, but the soup is also delicious. In this way, the duck is also delicious. Each bundle of firewood weighs one pound and eight two. When rubbing salt, add the shallots and peppers, take the wine and mix well.
For this method, Suiyuan commented: "The cloud forest is concentrated, carrying a lot of food, only this method, try it quite effectively, Yu are all attached." "This is a cool review. However, Yuan Zicai has always been a strict person, and he commented on more than thirty kinds of diet books contained in the "Sayings of The Lord", and the diet of Mei Gong and Kasa Weng, and also thought that it was not very reliable, "all of them are stuck in the nose and sting in the mouth, most of them are ugly Confucianism, and I have nothing to take." "Yunlin Goose" can be selected, presumably not bad.
The Ming Dynasty engraver Gu Yuanqing compiled a copy of the "Relics of Yunlin", which was later attached to the "Collection of Qingjue Pavilion". Anecdotes about Yunlin are described in different categories, many of which are directly taken from his master Dumu. Among them, "diet" is one, and the following nine articles are all recorded in the "System Collection". The earliest version of the "Relics of Yunlin" was in Jiajing, and the Qing Dynasty Siku Guanchen said that there was a carved copy of the Mao Jin Ji Gu Ge in chongzhen, "slightly more complicated than the present version", but I don't know what the appearance of this complicated book is, nor do I know whether it has anything to do with this "Institutional Collection" that also came out of the Ji Gu Ge.
It is said that "geese are suitable for the food of wild people", and that geese should be in the grave boat, followed by grass window bamboo houses. Roughly speaking, the fat of the goose can only be eaten in a minimalist environment, so as not to appear "meat eater contempt". Then, Yunlin often writes poems like "stalks" and "chrysanthemums", and only paints "wild people" who are sparsely planted and pavilioned, and it is most appropriate to eat.
Ni Wan is carved in stone, in the Autumn Xia Garden
P.S
The above-mentioned Wang Jiqian's old collection of "Qiao Ketu of the Stone" recently examined the bibliography and found that there were discrepancies with what various families saw, so it was a few words to start with it.
Rong Geng compiled the traces of Ni Zhan's paintings in various bibliographies, and wrote "Examination of the Authenticity and Falsity of Ni Zhan's Paintings", pointing out that Ming Zhang's "True Handwriting Daily Record" and Qing Gu Linshi's "Continuation of Calligraphy and Painting in Guoyunlou" wrote this painting, of which Gu's bibliography is detailed:
.....Above the self-titled cloud: 'Xiao Xiao wind and rain Mai Qiuhan, the pen copy strong self-width, still rely on the □ jun comfort, loose and dishes to persuade to add food. The next two sentences are the fishing ocean reward, and the que text is also Yu zi. See The Collection of Qingjue Pavilions. According to Weng Qinxi's hand-approved Yuyang "Essence Record", it is said that Yunlin's manuscript was seen, and the original Que was a Yu character, which was enough to report credit. Self-titled And Yun: 'In the wind and rain on April 17, □□ Maoyi brought wine and dishes to pay each other in the late festival Xuan, because he wrote Junshi Qiao Ke and inscribed a sentence, Yun Lin Zi Zhan. "A large rectangular print of the plutonium is called 'Zi Yi Yue'. The three questions on the right are Lu Gong Zaiping, Yuan Zice (press: as Ying), Hua, and Zhao Yong obscure. The surname and first name are detailed in the seal. Another is the Zhibai Daoist, Yin Yue Dingbo, Bai Wen.
It is not difficult to find that in this bibliography, the third sentence of Ni Shi's poem, "Jun", is preceded by a word que, and the strange thing is that this word is not written on the painting now, and it is used as the word "Wu". Regarding this Que text, Gu Shi quoted Wang Shizhen's "Essence Record" and believed that the original Que Dang was the word "Yu".
According to Tu Suoji, check the "Notes on the Essence of The YuyangShan People" (Qing Kangxi FengYi Tang Ben) Volume II, with Ni Shiyun to give a poem, the poem before the small preface cloud: "Tailiu Brother's old Tibetan Ni Yuanzhen painting, self-titled Cloud 'Xiao Xiao Wind and Rain Mai Qiuhan, the pen copy strong and self-wide. Shang Lai □ the king comforted each other, and the loose dishes persuaded them to eat more. This poem is very good and the "Yunlin Collection" is not loaded, this year I occasionally got a songyuan old man painting, love its style does not reduce the Yunlin, because the use of the former rhyme is on the left. "Note cloud:
"Mr. Literature Tailiu Third Brother Epitaph": "Brother Shi hu, the word Tailiu, for the new city people." And "Ju Yilu": "Guan Bian Zhongcheng Yongyu "Calligraphy and Painting Examination", there is Wang Shuming's self-titled "Qiao Song Absolute Barrier Diagram" absolute sentence, not a word is different, the third sentence is the word 'Yu'. The title also notes the cloud: "A book to the thirteenth year of the thirteenth year of the obscure day ni zhan question, the same as this." Taste this poem style, it is broken by Yunlin, but why Shuming did not move a word, it is incomprehensible. ’”
This is the origin of the original Que is "Yu".
Looking at Zhang Ugly's "Records of authentic deeds" (Qing Qianlongjian banknotes), this poem is not a word, and the original que is the word "Yu". Another point is that the first two words of "MaoYi" in the signature are also not quenched, and the writing is "Shu Jing".
In addition to the two bibliographies mentioned by Rong Geng, there is also a copy in Ming Li Rihua's "Diary of Wei Shui Xuan", which is recorded as "Small Scenery of yunlin", and the inscription poem is the same, while the original que is "East", which is not noticed by people.
Although the Ming people have not gone far away, they are not as cautious as the Qing people in the bibliography, the bibliography is relatively simple, and the style is not complete, and this truth is also applicable in the catalog. It may be possible to misremember in the diary, but since both documents are written as "Yu", it should be noted.
Whether or not there is a copy, at least this one is inconsistent with the bibliography of the various houses, which is true, and unless the above paragraph is omitted and there is a phenomenon of supplementation, this copy must not be a bibliographic book.
As for the inscription on the painting, Yuan Hua has surviving inkblots to compare, and I think it is probably not right. The rest of the people were short-sighted and did not dare to make a judgment, so they could only ask questions first, so that they could wait for the day to come.
Press: Ni's poem is found in Volume VIII of the Qingjue Collection, entitled "Qiao Song of the Stone", and the text is slightly different.