laitimes

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

author:虎嗅APP
The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

Works by tiger sniffing mobile information group

Author | Huang Qingchun

Caption | afp-jiji

Eventually, leukemia took the life of Japanese ghost designer Kansai Yamamoto.

Yesterday (July 27), mirai yamamoto, the daughter of Japanese design master Yamamoto Hirosai, announced on Instagram that her father died of leukemia on the 21st at the age of 76.

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

In the cnn report, In addition to announcing the news to the world on Instagram, Yamamoto Mirai also stressed, "He left this world peacefully in the company of his relatives." In my opinion, my father not only had a vibrant soul, but was also a considerate, kind, and affectionate person. ”

In a subsequent statement, Yamamoto's studio explained that earlier this year, Yamamoto Wassai was diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia, and he unfortunately died in the process of fighting acute myeloid leukemia last Tuesday (21st), and the funeral has been held.

Rival the godfather of Yamamoto's costume

Many domestic netizens may be unfamiliar with Yamamoto Kansai, but his position in the Japanese clothing industry is very important - together with Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto, he is called the five most influential fashion designers in Japan.

According to Wikipedia, Yamamoto Washisai was born in Yokohama, Japan in 1944, and before he entered the field of fashion design, he studied at the Bunka Art Academy, inheriting the aesthetic concept of "basara" proposed by the Japanese new school painter Tenmeiya Yoshinaga.

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

In 1967, Yamamoto Came to prominence by winning Japan's highest fashion honor, the Shigeen Award.

The "cnn" report described its design style as, "Not only has the aesthetic concept of Pasa ro, but also integrates traditional Japanese culture such as kabuki, ukiyo-e, samurai, etc., and applies elements such as Japanese faces and bright colors to the design, and the strong visual effects and distinct personal style once profoundly affected the world aesthetic trend." ”

In 1971, Yamamoto became the first Japanese designer to hold a fashion show in London, England, conquering the British people with his avant-garde design, bright colors and patterns, and successfully appeared on the cover of harpers & queen magazine in the United Kingdom, known as the "Big Bang from Tokyo".

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

At that time, Yamamoto's design style had gradually integrated the essence of the East and the West, and the strange patterns such as flying dragons, strange birds, strange flowers, and glyphs were like products of outer space, and the clothing industry in Paris even called the color he used like the sun "wide jai color".

When Interviewed by "Numero Metropolis" yamamoto Kansai, he said that he divided designers into two categories: one is to design avant-garde clothing for others, and he does not pay attention to wearing; the other is to use his body to personally interpret fashion, yamamoto Kansai undoubtedly belongs to the latter.

In the '70s, he was known worldwide for working not only with musicians Elton John and Stevie Wonder, but also for designing costumes for David Bowie.

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

David Bowie costume

Therefore, if we have to talk about seniority, he entered the Western fashion industry earlier than Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake, who "subverted the three giants of Western clothing concepts", and was revered as the "creator of Japanese fashion".

The man who made David Bowie

In the cnn report, David Bowie invited Yamamoto Kansai to design a costume for himself at the "ziggy stardust" concert in 1973, and the design concept of David Bowie's design that broke the gender boundary was very consistent with David Bowie's indistinguishable temperament.

In the end, the costumes for this concert made David Bowie a classic image, making it a classic in the history of rock and roll. At the same time, it also made Yamamoto Kuansai famous.

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

"At that time, some kind of chemistry happened, and my clothes became an inseparable part of david's song and his music, part of his message to the world with his singing voice." Yamamoto Later described the story of their mutual achievement in cnn.

In an interview with The New York Times, Yamamoto also admitted that Bowie became interested in his work because of some of his womenswear designs. "Luckily, David had a very slim body and they fit him perfectly – there were no fittings."

"I strongly agree with David's aesthetic and interest in transcending gender boundaries." He spoke again in a 2018 interview with the website the cut about David Bowie.

Of course, Yamamoto also made a variety of stage costumes for Bowie, from neutral jumpsuits to tights, from capes and broads. This combination of Japanese oriental culture and hippie, avant-garde design has also captured the love of superstars such as lady gaga and Michael Jackson, making them a loyal fan of Yamamoto Kansai.

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

Yamamoto Kansai once made it clear: "I do not accept pale and dark colors, and a strong personality is what I evaluate myself." I don't want to express myself only in black and white, I want others to see me and evaluate me, which is defined by multiple colors. ”

However, since the 1990s, Yamamoto Hassai has stopped traveling through major fashion weeks, but has started to run his own brand "kansai super show" in the form of costume catwalks and cabaret performances , which is a show that combines cabaret and costume catwalks, breaking through the concept of only releasing new season costumes on the runway in the past, boldly combining fashion with music, dance and entertainment on a large scale, and has toured Moscow's Red Square, India's Nehru Stadium and Tokyo Dome City.

In cnn' report, he was also commissioned by Louis vuitton to design a series of clothing for the brand "themed in Kabuki style with sequins":

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

Gucci's Early Fall 2017 collection and the givenchy Fall/Winter 2017 series were inspired by them to launch the Animal Face collection:

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

In addition to Yamamoto's fame in the clothing industry, most of Japan's various hall-of-the-road celebrations or international design events are also handled by him.

Admittedly, many of his design ideas, even in the present, are still very avant-garde.

As The Studio Yamamoto summed up in the CNN report, "He has always maintained a positive attitude, never lost his passion for creation, and 'human energy is infinite' is his motto."

And this world, because of the loss of Yamamoto Kōsai, has "dimmed" a few points.

The ghost designer who rivaled Yohji Yamamoto has passed away

Read on