[Heart] book Enlightenment
Clothing is also a witness to the civilization and culture of an era, each pattern, pattern and color design has its meaning, any thing or item is not casually existing, there is a certain cultural endorsement, such as the pattern and pattern on the body have his meaning, the dragon and phoenix is auspicious and rich characteristics of some antique patterns are also applied to some ancient buildings and some works of art, but also auspicious. The combination of colors also combines the symbol of a country with the five elements of color. Clothing is also a perfect complement to our I Ching combination. China's five-thousand-year civilization is truly profound.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, with the collapse of slave society and the active trend of social thought, the Decorative Arts style was open-ended, the shape was realistic, the silhouette was dominated by free curves, the artistic style was lively and vivid, and the pattern decoration could transcend the boundaries of the collection framework according to the creative intention and flexibly handle it.
The pattern of clothing is silently static to record the politics, economy, culture of a specific historical period, as well as some activities in the field of people's thought. And become a specific artistic sustenance for this historical period. Tattooed, Wen also. There are articles that have strange jedi paving white fireworks with snow. The ancients called the ornamentation on the fabric 'article', which is enough to see the depth of the connotation of the ornamentation.
Mashan No. 1 Chu Tomb, here out of 12 pieces of such deep clothing, except for one of the dark clothes are all crossed collar right, straight, long sleeves, wide neckline, placket, hem with a splendid edge. These deep coats are particularly wide, this kind of too wide deep clothes may be the privilege of the aristocratic class, a large number of painted servants unearthed in the Chu tomb are mostly thin and long, the length of the clothes is up to the ground or above the shoes, and the sleeves do not look too long. The hem of the clothes that want to mop the floor, the long sleeves are really not suitable for work, more like the more honorable people wear.
Most of the costumed TV series you see in the service are divided into two categories: the protagonists are mostly wide-robed and large-sleeved, while the waiters are mostly narrow-sleeved, which is also reflected in the excavated cultural relics. The man on the "Character Royal Dragon Painting" that we have seen in the textbook is the wide sleeve, and the woman on the "Dragon and Phoenix Female Figure" is the narrow sleeve, but whether the wide sleeve and the narrow sleeve are a symbol of status is really difficult to say, perhaps because of the relationship between Zhao Guo's implementation of Hufu riding and shooting, narrow sleeves were fashionable at that time. Most of them are smooth curves, and the images of dragons, flying phoenixes, and fierce tigers are added, bringing people a very strange feeling. The textile and dyeing technology of this period was already very developed, and many intricate and gorgeous patterns appeared on clothing.
The theme of the costume pattern has symbolic significance, the most popular dragon and phoenix at that time, that is, it means the palace prosperity and symbolizes the marriage of happiness, the crane and deer symbolize longevity, the zhai bird is the symbol of the status of the queen concubine, the owl symbolizes the god of victory, the above themes are mostly used in embroidery, the silk pattern is limited by the jacquard process, the Warring States period is mostly limited to the diamond pattern, the square chess pattern, the composite diamond pattern and the variation pattern of filling the characters, carriages, horses, animals and so on in this geometric pattern
The simple lines outline the scene differently. At that time, the dragon did not have horns like deer, head like camels, eyes like rabbits, necks like snakes, abdomen like mirages, scales like fish, claws like eagles, palms like tigers, ears like cows, and phoenixes did not have too complex feathers, but everywhere was full of agility.
Crane deer flower grass pattern
Phoenix
"Explanation of Words" says: "Upper day clothes, lower day clothes." The deep coat is actually a robe, which is a more prominent style. He combines the top and the bottom into one, connected into one, although it does not conform to the curves of the human body, but the male and female styles are majestic and not feminine, and the styles of deep clothes are diverse, model-type, narrow and small, which can vary from person to person, and dress themselves according to their own preferences.
One of the biggest features of deep clothing is that it is easy to wear, that is, it is conducive to movement, and it can tightly wrap the body. It can be thought of as a text, and it can be a martial art. It can not only be a minister, but also a military brigade. Loved by all walks of life. For a time, regardless of respect or inferiority, regardless of men and women, whether it was princes, scholars, or intellectuals, ordinary people were racing to catch up with this trend.
At that time, some areas were dominated by curved collared clothing, which was a kind of clothing with a collared jacket, a knee-length length, a curved collar, and a custom of using a substitute hook and a leather belt to tie the waist. The shape is complex and simple, and the workmanship is fine. There are wrong gold carvings of pincer jade, and the style is extremely exquisite. Deeply loved;
Women prefer to be left and tall, long skirts are pulled around the waist, narrow long sleeves, the pattern is divided into red, yellow, black and brown stripes, the top is narrow long sleeves, the right side of the collar, mostly light cyan, but also yellow, red. The bottom of the jacket is a long skirt, which seems to be connected with the top, more decorated with red, black straight stripes, white dots along the straight stripe, with a bunch of red, white belts.
In some areas, the costumes are wrapped in multiple layers, showing a swallowtail trailing ground, the belt is matched with hooks and rings, and the patterns on the clothes are filled with Zhu, black paint, and there is a wider purity;
There are also local costumes, not gorgeous, thick and convenient, clothing styles are tight sleeves right tunic tunic robes, there are black and collar edges and plackets decorated with red dots and black and red two, the length of the clothes or knees, or hanging to the foot, shoes are divided into black round toe shoes and square head shoes two kinds. There are types of clothing such as single clothes, jackets, brocades, brocades, silks, mostly plain fabrics.
In addition, there are areas where the costumes are clumsy and stylish, and the guards are formed and the interior is machined. For a long time, it has maintained a style of clothing adapted to local conditions.
Finally, there is the reputation of Chu Fu, which is known for its light beauty, and the material is mainly Juan and Luo, and there are also many leather clothing. Chu people's clothes are light and delicate, the crown-style scarves and hats are beautiful, and the styles are prosperous and colorful. There are many small countries, influenced by large countries, and their clothing is fashionable and mixed, and so on.
Let's talk about the color of the Sengoku clothes
In the Warring States period, the color of pure color was respected, and the variegated color was humble. Encourage silkworm technology, the quality of silk has been greatly improved, coupled with the development of weaving and embroidery technology, clothing materials are becoming more and more refined. There are also more and more varieties. The red top with green summer dress and the costume of the Spring and Autumn Warring States period are not as gray as everyone imagines, but there are many bright colors. It is very prominent in poetry, often in Chu Ci.
In the "Nine Songs", it is said that "Huacai clothes are like Ying", colorful clothes are as bright and moving as flowers; "red picking clothes, green fluttering clothes", red tops with emerald green bottoms are the fashion of the time;
Like in "Leaving the Troubles", it was said that "the production of the lotus is thought to be clothed, and the collection of hibiscus is thought to be clothed", it seems to use the pavilion lotus leaves as a top, with the delicate hibiscus as a skirt, although some people think that the lotus here, hibiscus refers to the ornaments on the clothes, but overall, the color types should still be many
Known as the treasure house of silk, the Mashan No. 1 Chu Tomb can be seen in the colors of gray, yellow, brown, red brown, purple red, blue and so on. Among them, red, brown, and yellow are the colors with the highest proportion, although green, blue, etc. are missing, but they are also in line with the Chu people's record of red.
The people of the Warring States Of Qin and Han dynasty are noble and lowly. Both men and women wear deep coats. The crown dress of the nobility is a dress. Civilians' deep clothes are jifu. Short brown is a dress, dark coat with hooked edges, wear with a belt. The nobles used ribbons woven of silk. From the Son of Heaven to the common people can be worn without respect, but the colors, clothing and clothing are different. Later, it evolved into a robe-style robe and wide coat. This style of clothing has always been popular in various feudal dynasties in the future, and is a typical style of ancient clothing in China.
The deep meaning contained in the color of the garment
The Yin and Yang theory is very popular, and the flag color and the main color of the costumes of the major warring states are very exquisite. The rationale is the country's natural virtue. The Yin and Yang family believes that any dynasty and state has a virtue endowed by heaven, and this virtue is expressed in the five elements, that is, the five virtues of gold, wood, water, fire, and earth. The political characteristics of this country and dynasty, the color it advocates, that is, the national color, must also be in line with its virtue. Only in this way can this country run smoothly and safely under the protection of God.
The Yellow Emperor's regime is Tude, it advocates yellow, and the flag costumes are all earth yellow.
The Xia Dynasty was a mude and revered cyan.
The Yin Shang Dynasty was a jinde, and its rise was an auspicious omen of silver overflowing the mountain, which was to advocate white.
The Zhou Dynasty was a fire virtue, and the ancestors got the rune of red wu, so naturally they advocated red.
At that time, the world recognized this cycle of five virtues, and at the beginning of the founding of the government, it had already determined its own virtue. The Seven Warring States are without exception.
The State of Wei believed that it had inherited the orthodoxy of the State of Jin, and the State of Jin was a royal prince, of course, the Fire Virtue of Zhou, and the State of Wei inherited the Fire Virtue, and the flags and costumes were still red. South Korea is also from the Jin Dynasty, but in order to show that it has a maverick virtue, it is deduced to perform mude, and the flag costumes are green. Zhao Guo was also from the Jin Dynasty, but deduced a more special "fire virtue as the mainstay, wood virtue as a supplement, wood to help fire, fire virtue more fierce" fire wood de, the flag also became seven points red and three points blue. The State of Qi was more delicate and was not a royal prince of the Zhou Dynasty. There is no act of trespassing on the basis of self-reliance, so Jiang Qi still regards the virtue of the Son of Heaven as a virtue, and the flag costumes are all red. In the Tian Qi era, the Warring States competed for glory, and the State of Qi could not do without its own natural virtue, nor could it accept the fire virtue from the sense of inheritance, so the State of Qi deduced the fire jinde of "fire virtue as the mainstay, Jinde as the supplement, gold refining in fire, and the king's instrument is eternal", and the flag costume became purple. The State of Chu was a barbarian self-reliant and then was canonized, for a long time the State of Chu was a flag with five colors and costumes were mixed, entering the Warring States, the State of Chu deduced the Tude of "descendants of the Yan Emperor, with the Same Virtue as the Yellow Emperor", and the flag costume became a color of earth yellow. Ontology of the Yan kingdom, the Yanguo gong clan believes that the fire virtue of the ancestors has declined, if the Yan kingdom inherits the fire virtue, this fire will inevitably be extinguished, and to prosper, it must be done in the opposite way, so it is deduced that "Yan is near the North Sea, gifted with water virtue" and determines the water virtue of the Yan country. The water of the Yan kingdom is the blue sea, so the flag costume of the Yan country is selected blue. Only the State of Qin did not declare its own virtues with certainty, but it was still black, which made the nations ridicule them in every way, saying that the barbaric land of the Qin State did not understand kingship. The State of Qin ignored it, still black did not change, and the black color full of mystery became a symbol.
At this point, I think black is really supreme, water is also money, and black is also black in the big environment. I also prefer black.
How important is the significance of color matching and ornament design, such as adding some details to the things we design now, adding some cultural endorsements, in order to remain unchanged and never outdated. What is popular he can only be popular. Only our five-thousand-year civilization is worthy of our pride and memorization. I also hope that more people will join the ranks of Chinese culture dissemination.