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"Suiyuan Menu" knife fish two method

Knife fish is brewed with honey wine and put in a sauce, such as anchovy steaming is the best. There is no need to add water. If there are too many thorns, scrape the fillets with a very fast knife and use the tongs to remove the spines. Simmered in ham soup, chicken soup and bamboo shoot soup, it is delicious. The Jinling people feared its many thorns, and the oil was extremely dry, and then fried. As the saying goes: "The hunchback is straight, and its people do not live." This is also true. Or use a fast knife to cut the fish back obliquely, so that the broken bones are broken, and then fry the yellow in the pot, add ingredients, and when you are eating, you don't know that there are bones: Wuhu Tao Taifa also.

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"Suiyuan Menu" knife fish two method

In the "New Weekly" to interpret the Qing Dynasty Yuan Ming's "Suiyuan Food List" has dozens of articles, wrote many articles on pigs, cattle, sheep and other meat, but also wrote about anchovies, yellow fish, crucian carp, seasonal fish and other fresh rivers, but did not dare to write about knife fish. Unlike anchovies, which have lost contact with humans and cannot taste the wild, people can describe it blindly; the wild knifefish is still haunted, so it cannot be scribbled.

Maybe it is waiting for a certain day, with the mood of not being lost, and the unexpected encounter with the knifefish?! This day actually came to my imagination. This spring, in beijing's Nanxincang Tianxia Salt, I fell in love with Mr. Zhang from Nantong, Jiangsu Province, at first sight. Mr. Zhang then invited me to their side to taste the real wild knifefish, saying that at this time, if you don't go to eat the knifefish immediately, you will start to get old.

In fact, before going to Nantong, I had eaten knife fish several times in Beijing. My overall impression is that the fish meat and the thorns stick together, not only can not taste the legendary delicacy, but also carefully afraid of being stuck in the throat by the fish bones. At that time, I came to the conclusion that knifefish cannot be eaten, so knifefish is not a big delicacy.

But when I ate the first wild fresh knife in my life in the spring of Nantong, I felt that it was a very fresh and tender stream from the outside of the sky, and my whole body was numbed by the current of the oral cavity, and it seemed that I had really started my fresh life from then on.

Knife fish are also called mackerel, knife fish, catfish, wangyu, etc., and the body side is flattened like a knife. 12-25 cm long, silvery white, sea life, every spring migrates to the river to lay eggs, produced in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, one of the "four fresh yangtze river". The Song people called it "Bai Guifuzi" because of its "clean appearance and extremely handsome material". Du Fu's so-called "silver knife chaos out of the net" is talking about knife fish.

Historically, both poets and folks have had a very high opinion of knifefish. The poet Mei Yaochen twice gave poems and knifefish, one of which was: "I have seen the Yang flowers fluttering and flying, and the knifefish are fresh and fat on the river." I knew that luscious was better than mutton cheese, and I mistakenly decided to make a soup right or wrong. There is also a Qing Dynasty folk proverb that "it is better to go to the room of the past than to abandon the fish." "It is said that the knife fish is full of delicious food, even the fish head is delicious, and it is better to lose the ancestral house than to give up the knife fish head that only has thin bones."

Speaking of the head of the knife fish, Mr. Zhang of Nantong told me a story of the 60s and 70s of the last century, saying that the most honorable thing on the knife fish is actually its nose, which is generally only used to entertain the most honored guests. It is said that when Prince Binnu of Cambodia came to Shanghai, the Chinese side specially invited him a master of cooking knife fish and made a "stir-fried knife fish nose". As soon as he heard the name of this dish, it was extraordinary, mr. Zhang said that at that time, the knife fish was a few cents a pound, and there were not many people who ate it.

"Suiyuan Menu" knife fish two method

This made me think all the way about how this "stir-fried knife fish nose" is a stir-frying method, and the taste is still unimaginable. Mr. Yuan Mei remembered the two methods of making knife fish in the folk, and used the "extremely fast knife" to get the fish bones like a martial arts master. It seems that eating knifefish is the biggest psychological and physical obstacle for people. However, there is such a saying in the folk, the thorn is more, the meat is more tender.

In the hours that I was about to leave Nantong, the warm and hospitable Mr. Zhang took me to a place that is said to be the most authentic wild knife fish, this wild knife fish restaurant called Mei lin Chunxiao, which is opened on a hillside on the yangtze River. Climbing high and looking far, not only can you see thousands of sails and boats, but even the silver glittering scales of the knifefish are in sight.

Just as I was immersed in the beauty of the river and the sky, Gu Jun, the boss of Meilin Chunxiao, swam towards me like a knifefish. This master of knife fish, who is known as a knife fish in the jianghu, just sat down and began to talk to me about his jianghu.

Brother Gu Jun is like a human knife on the shore telling a group of knifefish swimming in the Yangtze River: "When the knifefish migrate to the Yangtze River to lay eggs, the nose and eyes are red due to congestion (at this time I subconsciously looked at his eyes), and at least 90 of the 100 were red." After entering the Yangtze River, after passing Chongming Island, the nose is still a little red, but the eyes are not congested, and the body is yellow and thick... There is a difference between the knifefish in Nantong and the knifefish on Chongming Island, the Knifefish in Nantong has a mucous membrane on its body and is very slippery when it first comes out of the water, while the knifefish on Chongming Island is rough, but there is almost no difference in appearance... The more upstream the knifefish, the more delicious they are, and if they can swim to Yangzhou, they will be even more delicious, but the knifefish cannot swim because they are caught in the net soon after they are on the road...". I seem to be hearing about martial arts novels in the commentaries.