Bun House on the first floor "Lift a strand of thread and put down a futon, the skin is like a chrysanthemum core, and the filling is like a rose petal." This is people's praise for the small steamed buns on the first floor of Kaifeng, and Chinese and foreign guests often take pleasure in tasting the small steamed buns on the first floor.
History of the first floor
The small cage soup bun on the first floor originated from Tokyo (now Kaifeng), the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty of China. According to the "Tokyo Dream Record", it was called "Wanglou Cave Plum Blossom Bun" at that time, and it was known as the first in Beijing.
Huang Jishan, a native of Huangjiaying in Huaxian County, Northern Henan, came from a poor family when he was young and was adopted by a traditional Chinese medicine practitioner named Huang Qintang. When Huang Jishan was young, he only attended private school for 2 years. In 1907, Huang Jishan came to Kaifeng West Avenue Fujulou Restaurant as an apprentice. In 1915, he left the store to make a living for himself, and after several twists and turns, he opened the "Huang Ji Small Restaurant" in Kaifeng North Bookstore Street, known as "Huang FatZi".
At that time, in Kaifeng, there was a very famous bun shop. The owner of the shop is called Zhou Xiaode, a native of Nanjing, who has lived in the north for most of his life and was a cook at the Kaifeng Chinese Restaurant. At that time, he was nearly seventy years old, alone, selling buns for a living. Zhou Xiaode, who is already a young man, has always wanted to find a reliable young man, teach him his own craftsmanship, and let him give him a pension to send him to the end. He saw that Huang Jishan was a kind person, so he explained his intentions to him. Huang Jishan was overjoyed, and the two immediately reached an "agreement", Zhou Xiaode taught the craft, and Huang Jishan "lived and buried" him.
In 1922, the couple's bun shop opened at 19 Shandian Street. According to Wu Zhonglin, the son of Wu Zhonglin, the landlord of No. 19 Shandian Street, and later a retired teacher at Eryun Middle School in Kaifeng City, Wu Hongda recalled that at that time, in front of No. 19 Shandian Street was a large car door, and there were three rooms in it, and there was an empty courtyard behind the house, which was said to have been the residence of Lord Futai. Opposite the bun shop is Kaifeng's largest restaurant ,"Another Village" (the predecessor of "Now another new"), where customers often send people to buy buns, so the reputation of the small shop is getting bigger and bigger, and the business is getting better and better. At that time, the cook and the apprentice had no salary, the customer was accustomed to giving a "tip", the apprentice took a tip and put it in a jar, poured it out at night to divide the account, more than a dozen people had a share, and when the business was at its hottest, one person could divide thousands of dollars a day.
In 1928, Feng Yuxiang oversaw henan, ruled the army strictly, and cut down 24 of the people's men at a time. This group of people who do not want to be hungry ghosts actually have to eat the buns of the "First Dim Sum Restaurant", there is an old rule in Kaifeng, when the death row inmates parade the streets before the execution, then the prisoners want to eat what they want to eat, as long as they bring it up, the executioner has to run to get it, and the shopkeeper must let them eat enough for free, which is probably the traditional concept of "huangquan road people are big". Kaifeng folklore, the first floor at that time was not less "slaughtered", busy with the big and small guys in the store, but the news spread, but also to Huang Jishan made a very shocking advertisement. The landlord Wu Zhonglin is a literate and hyphenated cultural person, and one day Huang Jishan asked Mr. Wu lao to give his bun shop a name. "My father took the name of 'First Dim Sum Hall' according to the allusion of the cave plum blossom bun 'the first in Beijing' and personally wrote it on tiger skin rice paper. This is the first signboard on the first floor of Kaifeng. ”
In 1933, Zhang Xiao, then director of the Construction Department of Henan Province, bought the property and opened the Chongji business. Huang Jishan did not want to move too far, so he bought a two-story small building in the east of Nankou Road, Shandian Street, changed the original "First Dim Sum Hall" to "First Floor Dim Sum Hall", and asked a person in the late Qing Dynasty to write a plaque. "Since then, people have referred to the 'first floor dim sum hall' as the 'first floor'."
In 1938, Kaifeng was captured by the Japanese army. Huang Jishan could not escape this fate, and his daily income was only enough to survive. Although the dim sum hall on the first floor was barely supporting, it was also seriously injured. During this period, Huang Jishan's four sons died one after another, leaving only the only youngest daughter and Huang Jishan and his wife to live together.
In 1945, Japan surrendered, Kaifeng was restored, and business on the first floor improved. But the ensuing civil war, but also let the first floor suffered a heavy blow, in a semi-closed state, in order to barely support, Huang Jishan and ingenuity, the original large cage steamed, plated on the table bun, changed to small cage steaming, 15 per cage, as you want to steam, directly on the table. This not only maintains the heat and shape of the bun perfectly, but also facilitates management, and is very popular with customers, and the Kaifeng soup dumplings have officially come out. At that time, Huang Jishan did not use the cage cloth, laid lotus leaves in the summer, and the steamed buns had a fragrance; in the winter, there was no lotus leaves, he laid a pine needle lining cage, called pine needle small cage buns, and more lined buns were small and exquisite, white and smooth, clean and elegant, and had a special aroma, increasing people's appetite, and soon got the praise of diners.
In April 1956, the "First Floor Confectionery Hall" realized a public-private partnership. Later, it was moved to No. 88 Sihou Street and renamed "Bun Hall on the First Floor". The bun hall painstakingly operated by Huang Jishan has been greatly developed under the care of the party and the people's government.
In 1989, 53 kinds of buns across the country competed, and as a result, the small dumplings on the first floor of Kaifeng won the "Golden Tripod Award" of the Ministry of Commerce; in 1990, more than 100 famous stores in 27 large and medium-sized cities across the country competed in hangzhou's West Lake, and Kaifeng Xiaolongbao once again won the praise of "the first package in the world". In 1991, the "first floor" was invited to Beijing to perform, and State Councilor Comrade Li Tieying impromptuly wrote an inscription for the first floor, "The first floor in the world". In November 1992, the first floor of the small steamed bun was registered with the trademark "first floor" in the State Administration, in August 1996 the Ministry of Internal Trade of the People's Republic of China certified the "first floor" as a "Chinese time-honored brand", and in February 1997, it was newly built on the original site of Sihou Street.
Nowadays, the first floor of Kaifeng is a long-established Chinese enterprise, a national special restaurant, and a famous Chinese restaurant, and is famous for operating small steamed buns and mixed bun banquets on the first floor.
Small steamed buns on the first floor
The first floor of the small steamed bun selection is more exquisite, the meat only uses the best pig hind legs, seven points thin and three points fat, with the small grinding sesame oil, the best soy sauce, cooking wine and other seasoning; not mixing the filling but the filling, with the hand while constantly patting, until the filling is beaten to pull the filament and continuously. The original 1/3 of the hair noodles and 2/3 of the dead noodles, Huang Jishan changed to use all the dead noodles, so that the skin is thinner and does not fall to the bottom. The requirements of the noodle process are very strict, and it is necessary to go through the process of rubbing, falling, pulling, dragging, three times of water, three times of veneering, so that the surface is smooth and soft. Each dough is made into 5 crusts, and each bun is kneaded with 18 to 21 folds. After steaming, do not break the mouth, do not drop the bottom, do not run the soup, the skin is thin and filling, the soup is oily, soft and tender, fresh and fragrant, white and smooth. Kaifeng people praised it as "lifting a strand of silk, putting down a thin ball, the skin is like a chrysanthemum heart, and the filling is like a rose petal".
"Xiaolong Bun Feast", also known as "Assorted Flavor Bun Feast", was innovatively developed by apprentices led by Baozi master Cao Zhenjie. Buns are divided into ten flavors, including soup, fish kernels, jadeite, diced chicken, leeks, mushrooms, hawthorn, shrimp, vegetarian filling, and spicy. Ten cages of buns are tasted sequentially, which can be described as an intriguing taste in the transformation, and the magic is in it; the taste is layered and gradually enters a better state.
People who eat buns for the first time often spill the soup inside on their bodies in the first bite, and they will burn their teeth and grin. The experience of opening the bun is: gently lifting, slowly moving, first "opening the window" (taking a small bite), then drinking soup, eating in one bite, full of fragrant mouth.
Without the permission of the Kaifeng Hutong skewers
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