Li Dong eats "soup cakes", because since ancient times, the north is the main production area of wheat, so this is very popular in the ancient northern region! Flourishing in the Han and Tang Dynasties, it can be said that it was one of the most popular foods among the common people at that time.
Many people will ask, what is this "soup cake"? Why eat it on the day of LiDong? Actually, this is a general statement!
The "soup" in "soup cake" refers to hot water (or soup that is really boiled from bones); "Bread, and also, noodles make merge also." In one sentence, "soup cake" is a kind of noodle dish that is cooked after flour has been poured. This "溲" means to mix and mix.
In the Han Dynasty, those who were roasted in the oven and ate were called Hu Cake (generally believed to be the way of eating from the Western Regions), and those who boiled and ate were soup cakes (the way to eat local products). In the commentary of the Tongjian, it is said: "Whoever makes a soup cake mills wheat for noodles, makes bread from the noodles, and boils them." Song Huang Chaoying also said in the "Miscellaneous Notes on The Soup Cake": "Yu means that all those who use noodles as a food utensil are called cakes, so the fire ..."
The Northern Song Dynasty Huang Tingjian has a poetry cloud:
The beautiful colors of the bushes can be picked up, and the boiled cake chrysanthemum seedlings are deeply injected into the soup.
Drinking ice food tillers waves since ancient times, Mozi is full of spring grass fragrance.
The so-called "deep soup of boiled cakes" is the pasta that makes soup. Therefore, it can be said that soup cake is the noodles cooked in the soup, such as soup noodles, soup noodles, gnocchi and so on.
"Soup cake", since its appearance, has always had a fairly high status. In today's terms, it belongs to the category of "fine grains", because it is finely processed and the wheat is very finely ground. For the majority of ordinary people, due to living reasons, they can eat enough, and the "coarse grain" processing is good. And the upper nobility had time and energy to enjoy.
In the Book of the Later Han Dynasty · Li Gu's biography says: "Emperor Shang was able to speak, saying: 'Eating boiled bread, now the stomach is stuffy, and the water is still alive.'" It can be seen from this sentence that the emperor at that time also often ate soup cakes. According to the "Book of Han - Table of Hundred Officials and Secretaries of State", the Han Dynasty court shaofu had a special "tang official", whose duty was to make soup cakes for the emperor full-time. In today's jargon, it is a high-level white case master!
In the Southern and Northern Dynasties period, with the continuous development of productivity, the types of soup cakes became more refined, and began to enter the homes of ordinary people, but they appeared more in street restaurants and became the main selling signs! Different types of water drinks and (Bo) dumplings have also begun to appear.
These two practices are recorded in detail in the Qi Min Zhi Shu - Cake Method: "It is made of fine silk sieve noodles, mixed with gravy, and allowed to be cold." The water is rubbed like a large, one foot and one broken, and the plate is filled with water. Bo Rao rubbed like a big finger, two inches and one break, rubbing to make it extremely thin, and boiling it in a hurry. All are straight and white and cute, and smooth and beautiful." From the above records, it can be seen that "water drinking" is similar to today's noodles, and "Bo Rao" is similar to today's noodles or gnocchi. Different from today's practice, "water drinking" and "Bo Yu" need to use gravy to go to the noodles, and modern people have rarely used this method of cooking noodles.
In the Tang Dynasty, the way of eating "soup cakes" in addition to the usual way of eating also began to go in a smart direction. For example, cold eating. The great poem Saint Du Fu described in detail this kind of cold eating soup cake in the poem "Cold Tao of Locust Leaves":
Green high locust leaves, picked and paid for the kitchen.
New noodles come to the market, and the juices are like a mixture
……
Wanli Lu Han Temple, open ice jade pot.
The king is cool at night, and this smell is also necessary.
As for Li Dong eating "soup cakes", it is because the folk have "Xuan Dong fierce cold, nose frozen; Fill the void to solve the war, soup cake for the most" statement. Winters in the northern region are long and cold, and there is no heating and air conditioning in ancient times, soup cakes can be eaten with soup and cakes, and piping hot noodle soup can help people drive away the cold.
Therefore, on the day of winter, many families make "soup cakes" by "noodles" (and noodles) to pray that this winter is not too cold!
After the Song Dynasty, "soup cake" began to become a common name for all stuffed boiled noodles. Song ZhangShiyou wrote in the "Miscellaneous Records of Tired Travel": "Nowadays people call boiled noodles as soup cakes, and today butterfly noodles, hand noodles, water slippery noodles, cut noodles, hanging noodles, wontons, cold tao and so on are also." ”
This shows that from this time, soup cakes have gradually become a common meal of the people, and have been widely loved by the public and widely circulated.
Discover the food, feel the food, tell the story of the food!
I am Ah Wei, with warm words, recording colorful food! Thanks for reading attention!