"There is heaven on the top and Suzhou and Hangzhou on the bottom." The prosperity of ancient Hangzhou is no longer in the image, but the bustle of ancient Suzhou was recorded by Qiu Ying and Xu Yang with three paintings. In line with the principle of wanting to be hungry together, Tibetan friends are invited to return to suzhou, the most prosperous city in the Ming and Qing dynasties, to "taste" delicious city snacks and restaurant feasts.
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Suzhou people eat noodles, pay attention to "large bowls of wide soup, light noodles and heavy pouring".
Among them, the most classic is the three fresh noodles (specifically which three fresh, each is different, and will change with the order). The Qing Dynasty people's chapter law has a poetic cloud:
The three fresh noodles were busy all the time, and the door of the tavern was crazy all day.
Tianfu Wu people idle years, dusk to go to the tea house.
In the morning, a bowl of three fresh noodles, then drinking until dusk, and then eating tea under the belly, this is the ancient Suzhou people's definition of leisurely life.
(Qing) Xu Yang Shengshi Breeding Chart (Part 1) Liaoning Provincial Museum Collection Zhangmen: Suzhou's most prosperous commercial district | Noodle Restaurant in the bottom right of the picture
There is a noodle shop on one or two floors where the ship docks, mainly entertaining merchants and boatmen who come and go near The Gate, focusing on "three fresh noodles" and "noodles". Clean ravioli".
Part of the picture above The brother of the noodle shop delivers noodles to the guests on the boat
If you want to eat something more special, you can go to the food stalls by the river and try the "various fresh fish noodles".
(Ming) Qiu Ying Qing Ming Upper River Map (Layout 1) Liaoning Provincial Museum Collection
There are many different practices of using fish as toppings. And eating fish is also exquisite in season, before and after the Qingming peach blossom water rises, if you can come to a bowl of mandarin fish and turtle as the toppings of the hot soup noodles, how is it a fresh word.
Suzhou is located in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, with a dense water network and rich in river fresh, the most amazing of which is the pufferfish.
Xu Yang Qianlong Southern Tour Volume VI (Part 1) Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection Note: Fish tong dolphin, most of the noodle shops also make wontons
Fugu has three beauty, one is the blood white of the male fish, fresh and tender than the cheese is called Xishi milk; the second is the fish skin, soft and sticky is better than the turtle skirt; the third is the fish meat. However, puffer fish's liver, reproductive glands and blood are highly toxic, and if they are not cleanly handled, they can kill people. However, there are still many people who are willing to "fight" for puffer fish, such as Su Shi.
Three or two branches of peach blossoms outside the bamboo, spring river plumbing duck prophet.
Artemisia annua is full of short reed buds, which is when the puffer fish wants to go up.
Legend has it that the wife of a scholar at that time had the secret of cooking pufferfish, so she asked her husband to invite Su Shi to his home to taste it. Su Shi picked up a piece of puffer fish meat and chewed it, swallowed it without saying a word, and it took a long time before putting down the chopsticks. The scholar's wife was disappointed, thinking that Su Shi was not satisfied with her craftsmanship. As a result, Su Shi said slowly: "Also straight (worth) a death." ”
At the other end of the market selling fresh fish noodles, there is a delicatessen.
Qiu Ying Qingming Upper River Map (Layout 2) The bottom left of the picture is a delicatessen, and the bottom right is a fresh fish noodle food stall
In front of the owner hung a row of duck sauce, roast chicken, smoked fish (and fine wine), from which he was selecting one, placing it on a cutting board, wielding a kitchen knife and chopping it into several pieces, and then loading it on a plate and bringing it to the guest's table.
The picture above is a partial interior view of the delicatessen
There is only one four-seat table in the store, and the clerk carries the freshly cut deli out of the store, and it is clear that takeaway orders are the main income of the store.
Once inside the city, cross the long pedestrian street, where there are two restaurants facing each other in front of an east-west stone bridge.
Qiu Ying Qingming on the river (layout 3) opposite the door of the restaurant
At the entrance of the restaurant in the upper right, a blue wine flag with the words "Timely Wine" is erected, fluttering with the wind to attract customers.
Suzhou people are good wine, Zheng Yimei's "Whale Drinking Party" recorded: "Wu Zhongduo drunkards, when the twilight is dusk, the drunkards tend to be winemakers, just like the emperor of a hundred rivers in the sea." ”
Part above Two restaurants
In contrast, the restaurant in the lower left is clearly more star-rated. The restaurant's gate is closed and faces another quiet street, and there are more waiters and solemn faces.
There are not many restaurants in Qiu Ying's painting, but the city is full of flavor. In the Qing Dynasty, Xu Yang's pen not only made the decoration more magnificent, but also the dishes were more abundant (at least from the perspective of text propaganda).
Xu Yang Qianlong Southern Tour Volume VI (Part 2) Figure Chinese Characters: Hui Su Da Cai, Ten Jin Huo (Pot?) ）
Suzhou cuisine is rich in style and very distinctive. In 1765, Qianlong's fourth southern tour reached Baoying (now part of Yangzhou), and the suzhou weaver Pufu at the time allowed three local cooks to accompany the emperor to the emperor.com.
In the past two months, the three cooks have cooked more than 100 dishes. Among them, the most cooked are Suzhou balls, fat chicken crown meat, bird's nest fire smoked duck shreds, deer tendon wine stewed lamb and so on.
There is a restaurant along Heshi Street in the picture below, with a sign of "shop arranging all kinds of banquets" hanging under the eaves, and "five guizi (containers for serving vegetables) big dishes", "various snacks", "home-cooked meals", and three signboards on the upper floor. The east side of the restaurant is a cake bun shop, hanging the sign "table steamed buns", and the east is a tea shop, selling "Yuanyuan Fragrant Cake".
Xu Yang Shengshi Breeding Chart (Part 2) Restaurant
Sitting on the restaurant and looking across the river, there was a table full of Han Chinese.
Xu Yang Shengshi Breeding Chart (Part 3) Restaurants on both sides of the river
After eating fresh fish noodles or cooked food, you can go to the fruit shop on the bridge to buy some fine fruits and fruits. The so-called fine fruit, which often appears in Ming and Qing novels, refers to small dried fruits and lychee longan fruits that can be stored for a long time.
Qiu Ying Qingming Upper River Map (Layout 3)
Perhaps here you can also find the Ming Dynasty remnant Zhang Dai's "Hawthorn Dumplings", "Hawthorn Cake", "Pine Nut Candy", "White Circle", "Olive Breast" and "Bone-boned Abalone" recorded in the "Tao'an Dream Memories".
Xu Yang's Suzhou snacks are more diverse. In addition to the above-mentioned Zhuangyuan Fragrant Cake, there is a tea shop by the Mudu Diagonal Bridge, with five signs hanging "Cheese Crisp", "Osmanthus Flower Dew", "Gyokuro Cream", "Zhuangyuan Cake", and "Taishi Cake (also known as Taishi Cake)".
Xu Yang Shengshi Breeding Chart (Part 4) Cake and Fruit Shop
During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Suzhou was an important cargo distribution center with many radials and boats. Therefore, in the "Prosperous Breeding Chart", we can also see many specialties from all over the country.
Xu Yang Shengshi Breeding Chart (Part 5-6) Jinhua Ham, Nanhe Cured Meat, Nanjing Plate Duck, Ningbo Turtle
Writing this, I'm hungry. What about you?
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