The popular Russian tortoise is a small tortoise native to many different countries – not only Russia, but also Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Iran, China, Kazakhstan, Pakistan and other countries. It prefers a generally dry climate, seasonal hot and cold changes it can adapt to, even below freezing temperatures.
From above it looks like a very round tortoise with a flattened top of the shell instead of a high dome. Its color is usually tan. Adult Russian males usually reach 12 to 15 cm in length and females up to 15 to 23 cm in length. It is thought that the activity level of Russian tortoises in the wild peaks only about three months in a year. They sometimes hibernate in cold temperatures for more than 6 months, and at the peak of the hot season, they also dig holes to hibernate, usually staying still for a few weeks at a time to avoid extreme heat on the surface. Therefore, they are most active in early spring, when they begin to breed hard, followed by a period of autumn, and before the long winter comes, they will spend time fattening themselves. Raising Russian tortoises should pay attention to the following aspects to create a safe and healthy living environment for your turtles, so that it can live comfortably.
1. Breeding grounds
The tortoise is an active animal and should be given as much space as possible. It is recommended to opt for outdoor rearing during the warmer months, while there should be a spacious fence that is meant to keep it safe in case the tortoises escape. Tortoises that live outdoors, even if they are only a few hours a day, benefit greatly from fresh air, natural sunshine and opportunities to graze. The indoor environment should include a sufficiently large feeding box. The keeping box for a single tortoise should be at least 80 cm long and 40 cm wide.
2. Bedding
Sand is not recommended as a mat for indoor Russian tortoises. It is still loose, sticks to food, is eaten, and it may be a major irritant to the tortoise's eyes. In the wild, the mat is hard and weathered rather than loose and sandy.
The ideal bedding is cypress cover. It is usually very easy to use, well kept hydrated or dried, with less dust and can provide a stable environment while allowing them to dig holes. For Russian baby turtles, coconut bark is a good choice because it is less dusty and accompanied by peat moss to prevent them from drying out. Young turtles in the wild spend a lot of time in the cooler, wettest caves, a microclimate.
3. Temperature and humidity
Russian tortoises do not need heat at night, only proper heating during the day. A generally recommended temperature of about 32 to 38 degrees Celsius for direct sunlight. Consider placing a turtle-sized stone under a light bulb basking in the sun to "maximize" the temperature. If you measure the temperature of the surface of the stone with a temperature gun. It is usually much warmer than the lower surface, and the sunning spot range should be controlled to 10% to 20% of the total area of the feeding box, and the rest should be gradually reduced to room temperature. All heating and lights should be turned off at night, as the day/night cycle of light and temperature is important for tortoises to help them establish a natural pattern. In addition to the sunburn lamp also needs UVB lamps to supplement calcium, it is recommended to zou med 10.0 uvb bulbs. Humidity is controlled below 35% because they are more accustomed to a dry environment.
4. Feed and water
Wild tortoises eat a wide variety of foods. Although wild plants are nutritious, they make up for the nutritional deficiencies in their diet by eating this and that all day long. Their life goal is to wake up, look for new food, look for females in April or May, then look for more food, and then go on sleeping. The ideal diet should also include leafy weeds such as dandelions, plantains, and mallows, as well as leaves such as mulberry, grape, hibiscus, and pumpkin leaves. Adding extra whole grains will help their health. You can also feed a variety of fresh vegetables such as bell peppers, pumpkins, almost all leafy greens, cactus fruits, carrots, etc. Some foods should be avoided, including all fruits, as their sugar content can cause indigestion, while also cabbage, cauliflower, and spinach should be avoided as they may interfere with the turtle's ability to absorb calcium. Also avoid cabbage lettuce, as it has no nutrients and is not much more than water. Our goal is dry, rough green, and not too much "soft stuff," which can make turtles poop smooth and prevent dehydration.
5. Baby turtles bathe regularly
Young turtles are best to grow up on a mat that contains a certain amount of humidity, and the humidity is preferably more than 80%. All species of young turtles should be soaked in shallow, warm water for half an hour, at least three to four times a week. It would be better to soak it every day. This is less important for adult turtles because their shells harden and their skin thickens, allowing them to conserve water from their bodies more effectively.
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Further reading:
Eight things you probably don't know about turtles!
Why did turtles evolve shells? It's not really about defense.
Reptiles have low IQ? Cold-bloodedness doesn't mean stupidity!
Outdoor turtles, how should the pond be laid out?
A Russian tortoise that survived from the mouth of a mastiff!