Original text: [Red simmered eel]: Eels are simmered in wine and water, sweet sauce instead of autumn oil, hot pot soup is simmered, fennel and large ingredients are added to the pot. There are three diseases that should be quit: one skin has wrinkles, the skin is not crispy; one meat is scattered in a bowl, and it cannot be clipped; and the salt sauce is laid down in the morning, and the entrance does not melt. Yangzhou Zhu Branch Division, the most refined system.
Chun Yuan Ming "Suiyuan Food List" Aquarium scaleless list
Chinese cuisine each gang and each faction, has its own representative dish, no representative dish can not be established as a gang, such dishes can best show the level and artistic style of the cuisine, it can be said that as long as you see this dish, it will immediately remind you of a certain cuisine or a certain chef, such as Tan family cuisine's yellow braised shark fin soup, Kongfu cuisine's belt on the dynasty. Shandong cuisine of roasted sea cucumber, Red Chamber cuisine of eggplant, West Lake vinegar fish of Zhouzhou cuisine, etc., Suiyuan cuisine as one of the famous three official dishes, set eight cuisines in one, can be described as a variety of dazzling, of course, there are its representative dishes, then with the garden vegetables representative dishes what is the dish? On March 25, 2016, on the day of Yuan Ming's 300th birthday, the Suiyuan Food Menu Research Center was established in Jinling, and the leaders of the Provincial Culinary Association and the old experts in the culinary industry confirmed many times that simmered vegetables are the core technology of Suiyuan cuisine, and simmering vegetables are the housekeeper dishes of Suiyuan cuisine.
In the Lei Gong Mountain west of Tangshan Town, Nanjing, there is a huge group of caves, found the fossil skull of ancient humans, named Nanjing Ape Man, is the only complete and Beijing Zhoukoudian Ape Man Cave belongs to the same period of ancient ape man activity sites found in Jiangnan, and also found here with fire relics, that is, 600,000 years ago Nanjing people will use fire, of course, only roasting at that time. The exhibition of the Nanjing Museum has a clay pot unearthed from the Qinglian culture, which belongs to the early Neolithic pottery, and this pot has traces of fire and boiling things with fire, that is, more than 7,000 years ago, the Chinese Neolithic Age, our ancestors used such pottery cookers to stew and simmer. In the Nanjing Museum, there are also representatives of the lower Reaches of the Yangtze River, Taihu Lake area Neolithic Majiabang culture, excavated 6,000 years ago pottery beans, pottery cups, pottery kettles, pottery pots, pottery bowls, pottery and other cultural relics, everyone is interested in seeing.
Simmered, thick juice, the most representative of Suiyuan cuisine, simmering the method is also the unique technique of Huaiyang cuisine, ancient China, divided into Nine Prefectures, Yangzhou for one, but with the maintenance of the general, so the ancients love to call Yangzhou Weiyang, so, Yangzhou cuisine is also called Weiyang cuisine, Yangzhou cuisine belongs to Huaiyang cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine to Yangzhou And Huai'an Province as the center, began in the Spring and Autumn, flourished in Sui and Tang, flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties, Qing Dynasty Yuan Mei at that time can be divided into not so fine at that time, collectively known as Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine, covering a wide range of areas, the famous cuisine in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in China, Including Huaiyang cuisine, Nanjing cuisine, Xuzhou cuisine, Southern Jiangsu cuisine, Zhejiang cuisine, Huizhou cuisine. As well as Shanghai, Jiangxi, Henan parts of the cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine and Lu, Sichuan, Cantonese cuisine known as the four major cuisines. Later, there are eight major cuisines, Jiangsu flavor is mainly composed of Huaiyang, Jinling, Su Xi, Xuhai four gangs, but the society can not be so clear, but also called Huaiyang cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine selection of rigorous materials, fine knife work, prominent main ingredients, pay attention to the original taste, pay attention to the fire, according to the material; fine production, elegant style; the pursuit of the original taste, fresh and peaceful, good at stewing, soup clear taste mellow, thick but not greasy, light and tender, chic shape, salty and slightly sweet, north and south are suitable, known as "the first taste in the southeast, the world's most beautiful" reputation.
Simmering, there are many ways to say, first of all, the ancients buried the raw materials into charcoal ash to cook the method called simmering, that is, the raw food in the fire ash slowly roasted, such as: simmered chestnuts; simmered taro, the south of the called chicken is also called yellow mud simmered chicken. Secondly, it also refers to the cooking method of putting food and soup into a sealed tile altar and cooking in a low flame, which is now the case with Jiangxi crock pots and fire pond simmering tea, and the third refers to the method of making dishes, cooked or heated with a low flame, such as simmered beef and simmered ribs. The definition of cha simmering in cooking, the authoritative way is: "Slowly cook the raw materials over a low heat, simmer the main ingredients to be treated with water first, then add soup and spices, cover the pot lid, and simmer them over a low heat." Most of the raw materials for simmered vegetables are beef, lamb, wild duck, goose and the like with old texture and coarse fiber. The simmered dishes are cooked and have a mellow taste and a beautiful soup. "Specifically: simmering is similar to stewing, the difference is that the simmering main ingredient is stir-fried or fried before simmering, it is necessary to use a low heat for a long time, the dish is crispy and the juice is thick, rotten but not chemical, when simmering, use a casserole clay pot, if necessary, you can hook the thin mustard, simmer, simmer, white simmer, fry, sauté, and many other famous halls.
Simmering method is the most used with garden vegetables, but at that time simmering and burning, simmering, stewing is not as auspicious as it is now, simmering method is more suitable for thick and fat products, in cooking, boiling, stewing, simmering, boiling These methods are somewhat similar, boiling, stewing, boiling is not hooked, simmering, simmering can be slightly hooked, in ancient times the two methods were similar. Yuan Ming's "Suiyuan Food List" also records a lot of simmered vegetables. Such as gill simmered duck, Vermilion red simmered eel, red simmered meat, white simmered meat, ham simmered meat, simmered sparrow, mushroom simmered chicken, bamboo shoot simmered turkey, simmered beef tongue and so on. Yuan Ming said in the aquarium scaleless single, eel into the mouth of fat glutinous, delicious taste, red simmered eel to Yangzhou Zhu Fensi family system of the most refined, Huaiyang cuisine cooking skills to stew, stew, simmered famous; Huaiyang vegetables have a famous dish Yellow braised river eel, that is, red simmered eel, eel into the mouth of fat glutinous, delicious taste, this dish Suzhou Songhe Lou famous dish, in 1923 in the "Food Shengzhi" there is "the city Songhe Tower is the most beautiful" said, the current market has been difficult to eat. It is also coincidental, but also really fate, at the beginning of the year from Jinling to Suzhou to investigate, student Shu Xiangge Chairman Cai Zhiyong, know that Taoyuan International Resort has a teacher fu will cook this dish, entrusted people to set a table. Teacher Fu surname Gu is 76 years old this year, catering director Yang Zhaoqiang invited his old man to Taoyuan, the original talk let Gu Lao guide it, but the old man took the cooking as fun, idle to come to cook, there are many old leaders love to eat his cooked dishes, every time an important guest comes, will come to taste the dish, come to ask Gu Lao is there? If you eat on the spot, not necessarily in this not to eat, Gu Lao's roasted dishes have become a landscape in Suzhou, but it must be Gu Lao's age, must be booked in advance, sometimes Gu Lao came and could not be fixed, Cai Zhiyong entrusted friends to set a table, the dish was personally cooked by Gu Lao, all of which are Su Bang old dishes, fresh shrimp, yellow braised river eel, pine nut Dongpo meat, crab powder hibiscus, mother oil boat duck, vegetarian oil green vegetable mushrooms, sugar water osmanthus chicken head rice, and finally the staple food on crab powder roasted wheat each person a bowl of Ao stove noodles.
Suzhou cuisine has a light and palatable, fine knife work; elegant and colorful, the aftertaste is sweetened, represented by the Songhe Tower, and Gu Lao retired before the old Songhe Tower is the head chef, the dishes are authentic, exquisite, the heat is just right, before I thought that The Su cuisine was sweet, today's taste turned out to be slightly sweet, this sweetness is not the kind of greasy sweetness, sweet fresh, sweet just right. Because there are guests from afar, Gu Lao's table toast greetings, a sight of Gu Lao can't help but admire in his heart, really is the model of my generation, Gu Lao's humility and temperament to peers are not conservative, there are questions and answers, the most rare 76 high is not far from the stove, personal cooking craftsmanship has not been put down, Yang Zhaoqiang Master said that it is also true God, the same raw materials, Gu Lao's cooked dishes are delicious, to say that the kitchen master pays is also really learned, but how can not come out of the taste, this is the craft, which shows the profundity of cooking. For example, the yellow braised river eel between the banquets, in the past to Suzhou SongheLou restaurant made the most famous, Gu Lao retired before the head chef of Songhe Tower, this dish pays attention to the fire in place, the entrance is melted, but the shape of the skin can not have a little damage, now are idle no one to do, there is a good luck to thank Suzhou peers for hospitality, thank you for the old man to give rice, wish Gu Lao's body health and longevity, youth forever. During the banquet, Gu Laozhi Beijing guests also came out to toast, asked about this dish Gu Lao said that in the past, songhe tower was very strict in the selection of river eel raw materials, non-Taihu lake eels were not selected, accompanied by 17 kinds of auxiliary spices such as plate oil and rock sugar, cooked. The color sauce is red, the skin is fat and sticky, and the meat is white. The eel meat is delicate and tender, with a sweet taste in the salty taste, this dish is called "three yellow stews" with yellow braised a sturgeon (with a sturgeon), a yellow braised chestnut chicken. After tasting it, I realized that the ancients did not distinguish between simmering and simmering, from the preparation method to the taste, this is the right root of Yuan Ming's red simmered eel.
Eels, also known as eels, also known as white eels, are divided into river eels and moray eels. Yellow braised eel is made of river eel, with a black and bright back and a white belly, commonly known as "powder eel". It has the effect of tonifying and winning, dispelling rheumatism, and replenishing and eliminating. Its vitamin A content is high, so night blind patients should especially eat it. Yellow braised eels are most famous for their production at Suzhou Songhe Tower Restaurant. Cooking should be simmered in a large pot and simmered in a small pot. The finished product is red in color, the skin is fat and white, the powder is tender and delicate, and the salt is sweet. Red simmered eel cooking is very exquisite, Yuan Ming said that improper cooking will have three drawbacks, many people in the end of the three can not do the law, one is too hot and too hot, so that the fish skin wrinkles, the skin is not crisp; the second is overcooked, the meat is scattered in the bowl, with the clip can not afford, three morning salt sauce, so that the meat becomes old and hard, the population is not chemicalized, salt has a penetrating effect on food, the fish meat quality is not crispy, the fat protein in the meat is precipitated, after maturity, the meat is dry, add water when simmering, try to dry the marinade, so that the eel fully absorb the marinade, The skin and meat are crispy, the color of the dish is golden red, salty and sweet, fat and thick with glue, the meat is crispy, and the color and taste are excellent. As for the broken skin, in the garden herbivorous supplement, drunken rhinoceros Sheng Xia once said that the eel must be steamed first, and then under the pot, adding ingredients can be avoided, simmering eels should use lard and garlic, I have tried it is really effective, but the water must not be better than the eel.
Now make red simmered eel with garden vegetables: live eels are slaughtered without breaking the abdomen, knife from the neck, bleed, cut the intestines under the knife at the anus, twist out the internal organs with bamboo chopsticks, blanch the birth membrane with 70 degrees of hot water, pay attention to the water temperature do not burn the fish skin, and purify it. Cut off the head and tail of the eel, cut into about 5 cm long segments, and then wash the inside with chopsticks one by one, and arrange the fish segments vertically on the bottom of the pot, with the head and tail of the fish around it. In addition, use a hot pot, add vegetable oil to heat, add green onion and ginger slices, wait for the green onion and ginger to turn yellow, clip out and put it on the eel, then put the eel with the pot pad flat into the pot, add Shao wine, cover and simmer for a while, add soup, add lard after boiling, red rice water, soy sauce and rock sugar, salt, garlic, diced pig fat. When the eels are colored, turn the heat to a low heat and simmer for about 2 hours, until the fish is cooked, that is, turn the heat to add 10 grams of lard to thicken the soup, remove the shallots, ginger and eel head and tail, put the garlic head and diced lard at the bottom of the bowl, take out the eel segment with pointed chopsticks, put it into the bowl, put it neatly on the side, and then pour the juice. Take another pot of heat, add lard, heat into the chopped green onion, wait for the green onion to boil fragrantly, add bamboo shoot slices, add wine, soy sauce, sugar and white soup to boil, re-pour the eel and soup juice in the bowl into the pot, heat through the fire, turn the low heat until the soup is thick, turn the fire to add water starch hooking, drizzle sesame oil into the plate, the eel side is still facing the upper row neatly on the table. To make this dish, you must pay attention to the water temperature of the scalded eel, do not be too high, otherwise the skin will be peeled off when the mucus is removed, which will affect the appearance. Eels are rich in gum and are heated for a long time over low heat, so it is necessary to use a pot pad to avoid scorching the bottom. During stewing, the eel segment should be placed vertically to avoid burnage of the eel skin.
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