Paintings by Hand Collection of Tianjin Art Museum
A soldier dies for a confidant,
Women are pleasing to themselves.
Traditional societies have always paid attention to etiquette
"Tolerance"
It is the basic requirement of traditional society for women
【Song Yuan】 "Wen Xuanzuo" gold-plated tuanhua eight-edged silver Suzhou Wu County Lü Shimeng tomb excavated
The Book of Rites and The Book of Rites and Righteousness records: "It is the woman of the ancients who first married for three months... Teach women's morality, women's speech, women's appearance, and women's skills. "Feminine appearance" later became one of the four virtues required of women in traditional etiquette. In history, there are some moving allusions related to grooming, the Western Han Dynasty Jingzhao Yin Zhang Chang and his wife have a very strong relationship, when the wife wears makeup, he often draws eyebrows for his wife, and people use "Zhang Chang thrush" to describe the love of husband and wife. Women in the patriarchal feudal society, economically dependent position, marriage is often in a position of choice, they use makeup to achieve the purpose of increasing charm and consolidating status.
Since ancient times, the purpose of men and women looking at the mirror has been different, just as the Tang Mirror inscription says: "The sun shines and the flowers come out, and the full moon of the pond is born." The official looks at the scarf and hat, and the concubines are dressed up. Men's common makeup is copper mirrors and combs, grate combs, and women in addition, there are eyebrows, makeup powder, lip gloss, rouge and other facial cosmetics, people in the grooming, need to put this kind of supplies together, so there is a special container for such items.
【Ming Dynasty】 Huanghuali throne mirror table
奁, originally referred to a small bamboo and wood container in ancient times, and was gradually used to refer to the utensils that held toiletries, which was the earliest kind of makeup container. In history, makeup containers have many titles such as "囩", "Inspection", "Mirror", "Makeup", "Strict Fixture", "Mirror Box", "Mirror Box", "Sleeve", "Makeup Box", "Baoyuan", "Makeup Box", "Dresser Box", "Dresser", "Comb Hair Network" and so on. For the sake of convenience, this article refers to such containers for storing toiletries as "makeup containers".
China's ancient cosmetics container is closely related to lacquerware at the beginning of its production, most of these utensils are internal and external lacquer, which is an important category of daily lacquerware. The Warring States Qin and Han Dynasties were the heyday of China's lacquer craft history, and the types of lacquerware fetal bones were extremely rich. In the case of paint makeup, the fetal bone has a wooden tire, a bamboo tire, a cloth tire, a sand tire, and a small number of composite fetal bones. The wooden tire is the most commonly used fetal bone for makeup, and the light and strong cloth was born out of the most common fetal bone in lacquerware after the middle of the Western Han Dynasty. The development of tire-making technology has directly promoted the increase in the variety of daily lacquerware, and even the same variety has a variety of shapes.
【Warring States】 Character Che Ma Tu lacquer Warring States Baoshan No. 2 Chu tomb unearthed
The Qin Dynasty Guozuo was short-lived, and the shape of the makeup inherited the Chu style, dominated by a short and flat round or oval shape. In terms of decorative style, in addition to some plain hair and unprinted lacquer, there are also painted lacquer. The colors used in painting are mainly red and brown, which are slightly restrained compared to Chu lacquerware. The qin lacquerware pattern is the bird cloud pattern of the bird's head cloud body, which is generally outlined with lines to outline the abstract bird head, and the bird body is painted with a color block flat painting method to draw the rolling clouds.
【Qin】 The tomb of Qin in Guangshan, South Of Henan Province, was excavated
The fetal bone, shape and decoration techniques of the Han Dynasty makeup container have been greatly improved and improved compared with the previous generation. The shape of the instrument is becoming more and more exquisite, dexterous, paying attention to versatility, and there are integrated and serialized shapes, and the practicality is further enhanced. The makeup containers are round, oval, rectangular, square, horseshoe, double diamond, three-legged three-button bottle, crescent crescent, rectangular half-moon double- and half-moon, mostly rounded. Double-layered 奁 appeared in the early Western Han Dynasty, and after the middle of the Western Han Dynasty, multi-son 奁 prevailed. The upper layer of the double-layered iron is placed with copper mirrors, the lower layer is stored with other toiletries, and some of the double-layered lower layers are separated into multiple small grids, or several sub-folds are placed. A multi-son 奁 is a large -- (母奁) containing multiple sub-奁 (小奁), which can be stored in the mother-consort or independently formed into a vessel.
【Western Han Dynasty】 Nine Sons Lacquer Changsha Mawangdui No. 1 Han Tomb excavated
【Middle Western Han Dynasty】 Double-layer lacquered Jingzhou Gaotai No. 28 excavated
After the Eastern Han Dynasty, porcelain gradually flourished, and porcelain tire lacquer appeared. During the Wei and Jin dynasties, low-priced celadon ware developed rapidly, and in daily necessities, many material utensils were gradually replaced by celadon ware. However, the traditional bamboo and wood tire lacquer is small and lightweight, suitable for women to use, so the utensils of this kind of material have a strong inheritance, still occupy a certain position in life, and are still unearthed in tombs.
Gold and silver appliqué cloud gas pattern three sons Yangzhou Han Tomb No. 14 han tomb was excavated
The Tang Dynasty was the prosperous and prosperous stage of the development of Chinese gold and silverware, not only the number of gold and silverware increased sharply, but also the variety was rich, and the exquisite craftsmanship of the powder box was more common in the Tang Dynasty gold and silverware. The Tang Dynasty murals show the gold and silver makeup used by the emperor and nobles. Most of the ancient Chinese vessels are round in shape. Around the time of Wu Zetian, multi-petaled flower-shaped utensils gradually became popular, and were extremely common in gold and silverware, bronzeware, bronze mirrors, and porcelain, and influenced lacquerware, which was a prominent style of Tang Dynasty utensils.
【Tang】 Peacock pattern silver square box Xi'an Hejia Village Tang Dynasty cellar excavation
Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty, China's porcelain fine products are stacked, porcelain, porcelain powder box is a common excavation of cultural relics in tombs. Powder boxes have been fired in the Tang Dynasty, and by the Song Dynasty, they were widely popular, and were more common products of Dingyao kiln, Cizhou kiln, Yue kiln, Longquan kiln and Jingdezhen kiln. In general, the Tang and the five generations of powder box decoration is less, to win the glaze, from the end of the five dynasties to the Northern Song Dynasty, porcelain powder box form gradually more, the ornamentation is beautiful, carved decoration often borrows from gold and silver ware since the Tang Dynasty, has a high artistic appreciation value.
【Five Generations】 Eight prismatic black lacquered five-generation Wu Dahe five-year tomb in Haizhou, Lianyungang, Jiangsu Province, was excavated
The Song Dynasty lacquer industry can be described as a technical continuation of the past, the introduction of the old and the new; the shape of the instrument is changeable, a hundred flowers bloom. In the Song Dynasty, lacquerware gradually entered daily life from high-end luxury goods, and the types of lacquerware were more complete, mainly living utensils, women's makeup utensils, and stationery utensils. The processes of plain hair, carved lacquer, rhinoceros skin, gold, screw and so on also have their own characteristics and are becoming more and more mature.
The tomb of Huang Sheng of the Southern Song Dynasty of Fuzhou was excavated
The rhinoceros diamond-shaped sleeve was excavated from the Southern Song Dynasty tomb in Fuzhou Tea Garden Mountain
In the two Song lacquerware found by archaeology, there are more plain hair products with no lines on the plain surface and one-color paint throughout the body, of which pure black is the majority, followed by purple-brown color, and there are vermilion colors, which correspond to the "black hair", "brown hair" and "zhu beard" mentioned in the literature. Lacquerware was introduced to Korea and Japan from the Heian period onwards, and became the main color pattern of East Asian lacquerware. Circle stacking technology in the Song Dynasty has been very mature, influenced by the late Tang Dynasty and the five generations of beautiful and flashy aesthetic habits, the flower mouth, belly petals and large curvature curve of the modeling characteristics in the Song Dynasty handicraft products are extremely common, with a strong visual impact. This multi-curved and feminine shape has begun to appear in the Sui and Tang dynasty gold and silverware, and by the Song Dynasty, it has become the most significant modeling feature of porcelain and lacquerware. In this period, in addition to a small number of inheriting the common modeling styles of the Han Dynasty, most of the makeup making-up styles are very different from the previous generation styles, and their faces are completely new.
【Liao Dynasty】 Silver gilt inlaid treasure inlaid with lacquer box Inner Mongolia Tongliao City Kezuohou Banner Turki Mountain Liao tomb excavated
During the Two Song Dynasties, the makeup container paid attention to practicality, with diverse shapes, thin carcasses, and symmetrical proportions. The most common makeup during this period is a sleeve with a three-, four-, or five-layer structure with prismatic flaps. The whole is columnar, the side is ridged, there are lotus petals, sunflower petals, petals, octagonal forms, etc., beautiful shape, smooth contour. It has appeared as early as the Southern Dynasty period, but it is rare.
【Ming Zhengde】 Blue and white character set in the collection of the Palace Museum in Beijing
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, makeup containers have become a common type of indoor furniture, with high and low shapes and sizes. Those with high shapes are placed on the ground, similar to special tables, and those with low shapes are placed on the case. Hardwoods such as rosewood and yellow pear are widely used in the production of makeup containers. In addition, the hazelnut wood makeup container with local characteristics, the miscellaneous wood makeup container with strong folk fun are also eye-catching, and the ivory makeup container used by the royal family has a luxurious court feature.
【Qing】 Mahogany dresser
According to the size of the makeup container, it can be roughly divided into two categories: one type of makeup container has become a large and difficult to move furniture; the other type inherits the characteristics of small and portable makeup since the Han Dynasty. Common makeup containers can be divided into four types: throne-type mirror table, screen-type mirror table, folding dresser and vertical cabinet dresser, the first two are larger and the last two are smaller.
【Ming Dynasty】 Five-screen mirror table
Poetry Cloud :
"Lady, gentleman",
Speaking of the ancient standards of women who were admired by men,
Women don't just need to be "miserable",
And it's going to be a "lady."
The former is external beauty, the latter is inner beauty.
【Ming】 Silver gilded floral pattern three-section powder box capital museum collection
In order to get the love of their sweethearts, dressing has become a skill that women must first learn in their girlhood, as the Tang poem "Jian Jian Yin" said: "Eleven mirrors learn to make up, and twelve needles can embroider clothes." "In the old days, Shaohua's red face's expectation of external beauty prompted the production of makeup containers, and elegant makeup containers added a beautiful scenery to the bland boudoir life. Ancient makeup utensils were indiscriminately used in the Warring States and continued until the Ming and Qing dynasties and modern times. In the development of thousands of years, the makeup container has changed with the major changes in people's living style, but its main function has not changed, with a strong functional tendency. The evolution of materials, patterns and decorative techniques in various historical stages of makeup containers also reflects the pursuit and change of people's aesthetic consciousness to a certain extent, and reflects the progress of production methods and craftsmanship. (Excerpt)
Huanghuali folding mirror table
Article Source: The Collector
201506 period
"A Dynasty Near the Mirror Degree Spring and Autumn Makeup Into Who Solves It To Enjoy Watching."
——Ancient Container Collection"
Author: Liu Fangfang Zhu Wei
Editor-in-Charge: Qin Jia