Jean-Auguste Dominique Ingres, Napoleon I on the Throne, oil on canvas, 260×163cm, 1806
Nowadays, minimalist men's wear sometimes makes people feel the same, and men's clothing is a bit boring compared to the variety of women's clothing. But in fact, men are no less "smelly and beautiful" than women. Today, Harper's Bazaar Art will take you to admire the "glamorous" male outfits from the paintings.
1
Uniform control
Jacques Louis David, Napoleon Crossing the St. Bernard Pass in the Alps, oil on canvas, 261×221cm, 1800-1801, in the collection of the Château de Marmasson, France
Napoleonic military uniforms were known for their opulence, and some men even had to join the cavalry for the sake of this dress. In the classic work of the French painter Jacques-louis david, Napoleon crossing the St. Bernard Pass in the Alps, Napoleon in a navy blue military uniform and an orange-red cloak shows his heroism.
From the details of the paintings, one can see the exquisite costume skills of the time. The pattern embroidered with gold thread on the navy blue long coat subtly echoes the yellow trousers. The white silk ribbon wrapped around Napoleon's waist was originally a symbol of distinguishing between the enemy and the enemy during battle, and later the ribbon combined with the element of gold silk fringe gradually became an ornament. It is worth mentioning that the collar design of Napoleon erected in the work has been used to this day, known as "Napoleon collar".
Jacques Louis David, Napoleon in the Office, oil on canvas, 205×128cm, 1812, private collection
At the same time, Napoleon, who was at the forefront of the trend, was also a lover of leggings. How much does he love tights? Whether it was leading soldiers to war, attending his wedding ceremony, or even being exiled, he had a soft spot for leggings. These tights, called culottes, are generally made of hemp and cut to fit the leg lines perfectly. But due to the lack of elasticity, the comfort of this type of pants is lower.
2
Ring collar
Frans Hals, Banquet of the Guard Officers of St. George's Town, oil on canvas, 175×324 cm, 1616, Collection of the Hallam Hals Museum, Netherlands
The Dutch painter Frans Hals is known for his genre paintings and portraits. From his works, one can see the popular element of European clothing at that time - the ring collar. At the beginning of the design, the ring collar was mainly to prevent people from soiling the collar, functioning similar to a bib, and looking very much like the "shame circle" worn by pets. Later, this design gradually broke away from the original practicality and became a decorative element of clothing, which became widely popular among different groups of people.
Frans Hals, portrait of a bearded man with a ruff, oil on canvas, 76.2×63.5 cm, 1625
Interestingly, in the work of Frans Hals, many men wear disc-shaped and wavy ring collars in their clothing. Since most Dutch clothing uses black as the main color, the white ring collar is particularly prominent under the background of black clothing. These "uncles" dressed in plain black robes and tulle ring collars look a bit contrasting.
3
Exquisite boy Mozart
It is said that Pietro Antonio Lorenzoni painted Mozart the Boy in the Dress, 83.7×64 cm, 1763
Mozart was not only a musical prodigy, but also a "delicate boy" who paid attention to appearance. When he was young, he entered the palace to play in front of the court, and his exquisite piano skills and cute appearance made him deeply loved by the queen. So the queen gave one of her youngest son's clothes to Mozart. The dress was a fusion of the most fashionable elements of France at the time: a lilac coat with double gold thread trim and a tonal lining, and wide cuffs that exposed the lace-trimmed lining. It is worth mentioning that this kind of clothing pays great attention to the material of buttons, generally using shells, gold and silver, gemstones and other raw materials. As a result, some people will even go bankrupt for a piece of clothing.
4
Fur rock style
Leonardo da Vinci, Saint John the Baptist, on canvas, 69×57cm, 1513-1516, in the Collection of the Louvre
The Bible clearly records the clothing of St. John the Baptist, who is said to wear a camel leather coat and a leather belt. Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece "St. John the Baptist" perfectly restores St. John's outfit, and st. John who straddles the fur has a long thick, curly hair, coupled with cool gestures and charming smiles, which can be said to be very rock.
5
Shade cloth
Titian Vecellio, Emperor Charles V and His Hounds, oil on canvas, 194×112.7cm, 1533, Collection of the Prado Museum, Spain
During the Renaissance, a wedge-shaped shade called codpiece was popular in male wear. However, this design does not actually play a shielding effect, but on the contrary, it emphasizes the male sexual organs and has the effect of highlighting gender. Kodopez comes in a wide variety of materials, including cotton, silk, fur and other materials. Some men will fill the inside with cotton when wearing it, making its appearance look even bigger, satisfying a certain vanity of men.
Portrait of Henry VIII, Portrait of Henry VIII, oil on canvas, 239×134.5cm, 1537-1547, Liverpool Walker Gallery, Uk
6
Majestic Pope
Portrait of Pope Enochent X, Diego Velázquez, on panel, 141×119cm, 1650
Clothing not only has a practical function, but also a symbol of one's identity and status. In the portrait of Pope Enochant X by the Spanish painter Diego Velazquez, the pope dressed in a red satin shawl and a white robe is particularly solemn. At the same time, the artist, with his superb painting skills, perfectly reproduced the pope's expression and demeanor, so much so that the pope was surprised to see this work and praised it as "excessively like".
7
Lace element
The lace element originated in the 15th century and was originally only exclusive to the princes and nobles, and was generally used to decorate necklines, cuffs, etc. How expensive is lace? In the 17th century, a lace handkerchief was worth 200 darkots (equivalent to 700 grams of gold). As a result, the expensive and elaborate lace became a symbol of the royal family's noble status. The viewer can see from the portrait of King Charles I by the painter Anthony van dyck that there are petal-like lace necklines in both armored horseback suits and silk robes. The king's melancholy face is feminine against the backdrop of a feminine lace element.
8
high heels
Vicente Rigo, Louis XIV, oil on canvas, 277×196cm, 1701, collection of the Louvre
"Sun King" Louis XIV, as the "trend maker" of the European fashion circle in the 17th century, led the trend of stockings with high heels. It is said that the king, who is only 154 cm tall, deliberately designed high heels to make himself look more magnificent. Since then, a variety of high heels have become the king's favorite piece of his life. In Louis XIV by the painter Yascent Rigo, the king deliberately lifted his dark blue fur tunic into a corner to show his toned leg lines and fashionable high heels.
Yascent Rigo, Louis XIV (partial)
9
Invert the triangle
Jean Clué, Portrait of King François I of France, on canvas, 96×74cm, 1525-1530, in the Collection of the Louvre
During the Renaissance, men's dress was popular with the principle of inverted triangle collocation. The design of the upper body is generally with swollen shoulder pads and wide sleeves, making the men's shoulders look very wide, and the lower body is paired with tight pants. This principle of dress matching similar to that of rugby players was loved by the nobles of the time. In the Portrait of King François I of France by the painter Jean Clouet, the King of France in a wide gold satin tunic appears to be exalted.
Titian Vecellio, Portrait of François I, in the Louvre
10
Role-playing
"Yin Chan Xingle Album"
Every man may have a boy in his heart, mature and stable like an emperor and a playful heart. In the "Yin Chan Xingle Album" by the Court Painter of the Qing Dynasty, the majestic emperor in ordinary days had enough addiction to cosplay (role playing). In this series of works, Yongzheng incarnated as an ancient literati and scholars, Dongfang Shuo who stole peaches, and a tiger hero wearing a wig.
Throughout the ages, men have not lost the least to women in dress, and even dress more freely and casually than women who are often bound by the world's vision. A person's dress not only reflects aesthetic taste, but also a reproduction of their lifestyle and values. Through the above men's glamorous, delicate, or bad taste of the style of dressing, have you changed your mind about the "rough old men"?
Highlights:
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With the advent of the "big machine age", is the art world ready?
[Editor, text/Li Tianyi] [Literature Reference/ "Men in the Frame" by Kyoko Nakano]
[This article was originally produced by Harper's Bazaar Art Department and may not be reproduced without permission]