Talking about childhood memories, I believe that many people have had the experience of making garlands with folded branches.
In ancient times, the same was true, Li Bai once wrote in the "Palace Music Words" that "mountain flower arrangement treasure bun", And Zhou Fang also had the classic painting "Lady of the Hairpin Flower" depicting noble women meeting to admire the flowers.
However, unlike the improved universal garland, the flower bun combed in ancient times is very picky, not only requiring the stylist to have a very high level of combined aesthetics, but also requiring the model to have a rich face and a beautiful appearance, which can be said to be the most difficult design of all the hair styles.
Especially the latter, as we all know, the Tang Dynasty is extraordinary and comparable, throughout the historical data and film and television works, the beauties who can support the Tang Dynasty's flower buns all have the two characteristics of a silver plate and a dignified and generous face.
Unfortunately, in recent years, the entertainment industry has overly advocated the "white skinny" aesthetic, and the small flowers selected are mostly low-recognition beauties who are too faint to distinguish who is who.
Coupled with the "big light" effect brought about by the explosion of "Three Lives and Three Worlds and Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms", even if the costume drama wants to give the actress a hairpin flower, it can't find a place to start.
Speaking of this, I have to mention director Chen Jialin.
Zhou Jie of "Yang Guifei", Lin Fangbing of "Emperor Tang Ming", Liu Xiaoqing of "Wu Zetian", Zhao Mingming of "Han Palace Feiyan", Gai Lili of "The Case of Shuangfengqi", Chen Hao of "Great Dunhuang"...
As a big bull in the industry in the 1990s, Chen Jialin is best at creating all kinds of costumed beauties who are either graceful or luxurious or charming.
Among them, the more classic ones are like "Tang Ming Huang", in order to play Yang Guifei well, Lin Fangbing, who did not know how to dance at all, had to stumble off the seven solo dances in the play with hard work, and did not give the crew the opportunity to use a stand-in.
The body condition is even more extreme, Lin Fangbing first bought a bunch of nutrient solutions that taste like tofu residue to try to fatten, but this thing is too slow to work, she can only turn her attention to carbohydrates.
This is good, eat fourteen buns during the day, the surprised male protagonist Liu Wei directly laughed and lay on the ground is not enough, and at night, the assistant will fish the sleeping Lin Fangbing from the bed to eat chicken soup noodles and eggs: "I know that I am not suitable to play Yang Guifei, but I must take this role." (Gain 50 pounds) At that time, I didn't know whether the value was worth it, so I felt that I had to be worthy of the role, worthy of the director, and worthy of the audience. ”
Fortunately, Lin Fangbing's hard work was not in vain in the end, and Yang Yuhuan was first seen in the play, and the small face of flesh and flesh was matched with bracketed bangs and pink skirts, doubling her youth and carrying a little bit of petite woman's delicacy.
When she entered the palace, the eyebrows that were originally so short and flat that it was almost impossible to see the outline shape were pulled into slender willow leaf eyebrows, and the hair bun was also raised and multiplied on the basis of a single step and two small flowers, instantly distinguishing the existence of the two identical souls of the Yang family girl and Yang Guifei.
If "Tang Ming Huang" is more inclined to Yang Guifei's "personal fashion show", then Chen Jialin's "Wu Zetian" is a showdown of top Tang feng beauties.
Take Wu Zetian, played by Liu Xiaoqing, as an example, to unload the shyness of the talented person who was a few years ago, when Wu Zhaoyi, who returned to the harem with Li Zhi's concubine, was like a rose that needed to be opened, although the makeup was no different from before, the combination of Jin Bu Yan and the big red silk flower still made her look charming.
Ascending to the back seat is different, the fan-shaped high bun popular in the Tang Dynasty season plus a variety of bright and noble hairpin flowers, and occasionally the sideburns of the step shake and the golden comb are exchanged, I have to say that the Wu Meiniang in this period will be the domineering spirit of the superior and the charm of mature women just right, is a rare to get rid of the "flower lining people" to achieve "human embossing" of the graceful beauty.
Helan Minyue took the face of her aunt and the stupidity of her mother, the most profound impression was the scene where she received the box lunch, obviously said that it was just a family banquet, but she dressed up in order to suppress Wu Zetian, and the peony on the bun was even more exaggerated than what her aunt wore in the palace.
It's just that the brain is not good, the originally qingxiu Hanging Miao Yiyi through Yang Shuyun and Mao Geping so dressed, there is really a bit of "rich and noble, a hundred flowers bow their heads to worship fangchen" taste, do not blame Chen Baoguo played by Li Zhi so much love her.
Another beauty in the play who loves hairpin flowers is Xiao Shufei.
As mentioned in history, Xiao Shi was selected as a good concubine of the Eastern Palace because of her outstanding appearance, and later even civilian officials used the term "charming posture" to describe her.
Therefore, when designing a style for Yu Hui, the first thing Yang Shuyun has to do is to reduce the mature female feeling of the actor himself, and then highlight the gentleness and smallness of the character through the matching of hair ornaments.
In this way, the noble partial phoenix step shake laid the honorable status of Xiao Shufei as a favorite concubine, and the combination of the fallen ponytail and the small and fine silk flowers added a few touches of delicacy and suppleness to it, and only a few rounds later, Yang Shuyun completely stripped Xiao Shufei and the Empress Wang, who had briefly formed an alliance, so that people could see at a glance which was the palace lady who paid attention to etiquette, and which was the side concubine who relied on beauty and favor.
In contrast, the same is the flower bun, Hong Kong and Taiwan stylists prefer to give beauty a beautiful and graceful posture.
For example, in "Daming Palace Words", looking back at Chen Hong's costumes in the 1990s, whether it is the stunning beauty Sable Cicada or the Red Chamber Servant Purple Crane, the character's makeup and hair are all around the traditional style with high saturation.
However, when Ye Jintian was in charge, he not only unusually chose the customized costumes abroad, but also gave the hair buns of the actresses in the play a new meaning, and completed the transformation of the Taiping Princess from a reiki girl to a cold young woman with only one purple flower.
There is also a big flower bun Chen Gufang in the Hong Kong circle, and the ancient dolls in the early Tang Dynasty were basically guided by her, it can be said that without Chen Gufang, there is no Liu Shishi "b station small talk heroine" reputation.
Personally, I like the fallen ponytail she designed for Princess Jiayi the most, saying that the real beauty is "more delicate than the flower", but Liu Shishi relies on the temperament of perennial dance practice and the peony on the sideburns, and even the faint orange embellishment on the cheek is more fresh and unworldly against the background of the lake.
Or "Liaozhai" in the Xin Fourteen Niang, eyebrows are picturesque, the eyes are sparkling, pseudo-plain makeup not only did not lower Liu Shishi's temperament, but let her have a little more fox demon should not have a bit of cleverness, really is the best portrayal of "like a fairy is not like a demon".
In addition to the above two different styles of conventional buns, the ancients also invented many interesting derivative shapes.
For example, the vase hairpin shared by strawberries before is said to be a good flower of the Song people, but they are afraid of the flower branches to mess up the hair, so under the trade-off, they have innovated the following hollow imitation vase long hairpin, that is, if you want to put flowers on the head, you only need to put one or two flowers and a little water in it to take it for many days.
What is more poetic is that the ancient vase hairpins are mostly made of glass, whenever the ancients put flowers in it, they can not only feel the fragrance of flowers with the wind, but also add a little low-key luxury because of the delicate and gentle texture of the glass, which can be called "a must-have item for the trendy people in Beijing".
On the other hand, the flower crown was also once popular in Beijing.
Far away like "Qing Ping Le", in the play, Zhang Guifei has a lot of gorgeous and expensive crowns, of which the pink flower crown that appears briefly is the most eye-catching, with the pearl makeup loved by the Northern Song Dynasty concubines, which is particularly suitable for the character's petite and favored setting.
Recently, like the Mid-Autumn Festival Gala, Liu Shishi's coat was draped horizontally with a restored version of the Yamaguchi crown, and the beads swung lightly between walks, comprehensively showing the highest clothing configuration of married women in the Song Dynasty to attend important occasions.
And this kind of upsurge is not limited to women, for example, "MengliangLu" once recorded the scene of the emperor going out of the house with "driving (the emperor) out and then sitting, and also on the hat of several small Luo Shuai flowers", and Ouyang Xiu also wrote in "Crane Soaring heaven" that "wearing flowers and holding wine to celebrate the east wind", confirming the habit of ordinary men at that time also loved hairpin flowers.
In this way, with the promotion of the aesthetics of the hairpin flower, every time the festival season comes, the capital city is like a sea of flowers and clouds, and there are several small flowers on the heads of both men, women and children.
Even later, some people opened shops to sell and repair flower crowns, which looked no different from the current specialty stores.
At the same time, considering that flowers are easy to thank, many families have also used artificial fake flowers that are more convenient to preserve.
In "Dream of the Red Chamber", there is a plot of giving silk flowers to the ladies, and Dai Yu learns that she is picking up the rest of others and loses her temper, "Hmm, I know that others will not give it to me if they do not pick the rest."
There is also Baochao, whose beautiful shape is always inseparable from the small silk flowers on the sideburns.
The reason for this is that the first is that the types of silk flowers are changeable, whether it is with a gentle swaying step, or as a jewelry alone, it can well reflect the delicacy of the back house woman; second, even if the treasure sister is outstanding, she is only a cousin who lives in her aunt's house, in this case, the use of low-key but not shabby silk flowers to maintain a quiet and dignified but not let people feel that the image of everyone is too ostentatious, far more important than everything.
On the other hand, Li Yuhu, the setting of Miss Wuguan made her surrounded by a flexible and playful atmosphere, when adding a few colorful silk flowers and light pearl steps, not only will not lose the identity of the little grandmother, but also let her have a little more girlish liveliness.
Coincidentally, in the Qing Dynasty, the grass velvet flower became the favorite of the noble daughters of the family.
Especially since Empress Fucha entered the middle palace, advocating a frugal life, she did not like gold and silver jewelry, but preferred handmade hairpin flowers made of Chinese medicinal herbs.
As for the velvet flower, as early as the Tang Dynasty, it was offered as a tribute because of its bright colors and harmonious sound, and strawberries also shared the shape of the king of the daughter country wearing red velvet flowers and phoenix hairpins when taking stock of "Journey to the West".
The small ones are like "Ruyi Chuan", in order to make The Heart please a color head on the birthday of Concubine Xian, Li Yu specially sent a beautifully made velvet flower, taking the meaning of "glory and high rise".
In addition, multi-colored silk threads are used to wind up flower-shaped flowers on an artificial billet frame made of cardboard and copper wire:
Combining traditional Chinese metal craftsmanship with feather craftsmanship, the base with different patterns is first made of metal, and then the bright feathers on the back of the kingfisher (now mostly replaced by goose feathers and ribbons) are inlaid on the seat to make a dotted jade flower:
Dye cloth, yarn, silk, etc. as raw materials, and then use hot iron to iron the desired pattern on the wood chips:
I have to say that sometimes the aesthetics of the ancients are far more poetic than we think, and only such a small flower can become a dexterous and changeable face shaping tool in the hands of women after being carefully made.
On the other hand, today's costume dramas, xianxia white clothes fluttering, martial arts white clothes fluttering, even court dramas often appear in violation of the big light with gauze skirt shape, do not know that this royal family is about to go bankrupt.
The problem is that the producers are not stupid, in order to escape this kind of public opinion attack, they always invite the traffic actors with a large number of fans first, once the audience refutes that the finished product is not good, there is no need for a water army, there are thousands of "control and evaluation army" rushing up.
The problem of aesthetic convergence should not be underestimated.
Seeing that the production environment is getting better and better, the cost quotation of each crew is not embarrassed to say it, but the type of starring actor selected by the capital side always revolves around the two points of "harmless" and "delicate", or even if the actor is thick-faced, the screenwriter and modeling will also set people to lean on the "silly white sweet", making people weird.
Male actors are more times, want to see a handsome guy can only turn over the old drama, this year I do not know how many times to brush to the large-scale spit of the new generation of low value inventory.
I sincerely hope that the industry will no longer stare at the "white skinny" praise, is the world's rich and noble flowers and beautiful women not fragrant, or this year out of a swooping s + financial report did not take out the wallet of the producer?
In any case, take care of the audience's eyes.
Enough of the same double bun, obviously braided hair, coiled hair and double ponytail are the standard for costume girls
The same is the "big light" hairstyle, why is "Yangmen Female General" so beautiful
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