Beauty and fashion are rare daydreams in the adult world.
Luxury, born to dream. Some sell stories, such as Ms. Coco Chanel's legendary love and design ideas; some appeal to art, such as Gucci, who has planned many avant-garde shows such as the operating room runway; others emphasize eternity, such as Patek Philippe, which "no one can have, but only for the next generation";
High-end customization is the top "prop" for luxury goods to create dreams. Clothes that are so beautiful that they should not be mortal have opened a window to fairy tales in the real world, and all human fantasies about beauty and fashion are beckoning to us outside the window.
This is a beautiful fairy tale presented by Dior for the AW20 couture collection, led by Dior's womenswear creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and directed by renowned Italian director Matteo Galloni.
Not a simple copy of the offline runway, nor the staggered Gatsby luxury, the dream refinement and fashion art visible to the naked eye in the lens once again let us see the ability of dior to sell dreams.
Peeling off the cloak of beauty, this is actually a self-help for Dior under the epidemic. It's just that in the harsh social environment, this way seems particularly romantic and kind, with less than 15 minutes of mythical apparitions, let us temporarily forget the cruelty of reality and embrace beauty and innocence.
After the visual carnival, in addition to beauty, in refinement and ingenuity, this painstaking feature film seems to convey something. We tried to dig out what makes it so amazing from the three aspects of director, luxury and Greek mythology, and dior who dominates the show.
"Cinema is an art that combines creativity and craftsmanship, and creation and interpretation are equally important. This is in line with exquisite craftsmanship in the field of fashion. ”
Luxury cloud shows are no strangers in the digital age, but choosing to start with a micro-film is something unprecedented. Dior's "le mythe dior" reproduces the whole process of high-order clothing selection and purchase with the gods dressed in high-end Chinese costumes for products and brands. The plot is grotesque enough, the picture is beautiful enough, and the elegance behind the film is also moving enough.
Image source: Tencent fashion public number
It's hard to imagine such a bursting visual effect with completely zero special effects, and only with the intricate plastic art and the extremely beautiful mirror movement, it presents a stunning fantasy atmosphere.
Source: dior official website
This dreamy thing is from the hands of Matteo Galloni.
Martio, who has been nominated for Cannes many times and won countless international film festival awards such as Cannes, is not a fashion director in the traditional sense, but is good at showing naked humanity through fairy tales and other themes. For example, "The Story of the Story", adapted from the dark fairy tale "Five Days Talk", uses the main story line of women and uses the artistic picture language to reflect human desires. Dior this film is also regarded by many as a continuation of "The Story of the Story".
Source: Douban
Matteo's works always use unique mirrors and colors to bring the audience a stronger visual tension. Each screenshot of le mythe dior has a sense of Renaissance oil painting art.
In the film, the mobile suitcase of No. 30 Montaigne Avenue, the birthplace of dior, is a "black hole of time" that connects reality and fairy tales; the interpretation of the gods such as siren Siren, the goddess of Ningfu, the god of conch, Anfitrit, the self-illuminated Naxos, the god of Pan and the goddess of nature running in the forest, the galatea of the stone statue, the kissing Apollo and Daphne under the tree, also makes the dior of the industrial world highly booked and perfectly integrated into the natural fairy tale.
Such a highly completed "fashion fairy tale" is largely due to Matteo's own artistic achievements. Before becoming a director, Matteo was a painter who "grew up in the great masterpieces of the Renaissance", and in his opinion, "each miniature couture has its own world, silhouette, color and transparency, all of which are extremely elegant and rigorous". Therefore, the high-end costumes in the film can be so harmonious with the color matching of the landscape.
From dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri's conversation with vogue, we can see more clearly why matteo was chosen.
"Movies always fascinate me, and I often want to try to recreate the unique atmosphere of high-end fashion through movies, but I'm a designer after all and I can't do it. Matteo is a great dreamer who shoots films in the traditional way, from casting to location, taking care of all the details step by step. Matteo and I share a common language, and we have similar attitudes toward our respective fields. ”
From the naming of hermes to the products represented by the Gucci Dionysian bag, to the beautiful "le mythe dior", the popularity of luxury rubbing Greek mythology has become a routine operation.
Why do luxury goods love Greek mythology? In addition to its position in Western art history and the drama of the story itself, what is more crucial is that every character in Greek mythology has both divinity and humanity, there is the nobility of God, and there are also the seven passions and six desires of man. This mixture of divinity and humanity is exactly what luxury goods need.
First, the high premium of luxury goods is rooted in the scarcity and superiority accumulated by the brand for more than ten hundred years. In order to convey such abstract spiritual values, the highly recognized mythological figures with their own divine aura are of course the best figurative mappings. For those who can afford to buy high-end bookings, when material desires are overflowing, they naturally desire spiritual sustenance even more. The "endorsement" of the gods just scratched the itch of the high-enders.
Screenshot of the video of Le mythe dior
Botticelli", Spring, source network
Second, most people at the bottom of the pyramid who cannot afford to buy high-end orders, their yearning and envy for luxury goods is caused by the human nature of "people going to high places", and it is also the basis for the "high brand value" of luxury goods. Maybe they won't buy dior high orders, but that doesn't prevent them from paying attention to, discussing, and liking the brand.
For example, Narcisse, the only one in Le Mythe dior, does not pick a costume. Faced with the high-end costumes that amazed the other gods, the extremely narcissistic one only glanced at it. Behind this eye is Narcissism's narcissistic complex of "I am beautiful alone, I don't need clothes to add color"; it is also a high-level boast of Dior "even the god of beauty who loves beauty the most will lose his mind for me". Leaving room for inconclusive discussion, brand attention and the consequent sense of identity superiority naturally rise.
"Surrealist images can make hidden things show their true face. I've always been interested in mysteries and magic, as a way to glimpse the future. "
Myth extends to reality, and it's Maria's brand attitude in the language of design.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, dior womenswear creative director who leads this season's fall/winter haute couture collection, is Dior's first female creative director. Since Maria took office, she has participated in the creation of a number of runways, leading the design of women's clothing works, you can clearly see her interpretation of women", "both sexy and poetic".
Dior Spring/Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collection Fashion Show Shanghai
See watermark for the source
In the 37 dresses in this year's Dior Fall/Winter 2020 haute couture collection, the details also contain Maria's tribute and heritage to the great female artists of the 20th century and the spirit of Dior.
1. Pay tribute to the design concept
In addition to her feminist approach, Maria has expressed her fascination with Surrealism more than once: "Surreal images can make hidden things show their true faces. I've always been interested in mysteries and magic, as a way to glimpse the future. "
Because of this, Maria's bespoke designs this year draw inspiration from the work of female surrealist artists such as Lee Miller, Dora Maar and Jacqueline Lamba. The smoothness of the silky velvet fabric comes from the water-like texture of Miller's photographs, while the beautiful colors of Carrington's works inspire the fabric colors...
The difference from the male perspective is that Maria doesn't just use these female artists as a source of inspiration. One of the dresses embroidered with the words "'blanche et muette, habillée des pensées que tu me prêtes.' translates to: 'Snow white and silent, clothes are the thoughts you have given me.' '”
This quote comes from the nude photography of Belgian male poet Marcel Mariën, which has a certain ironic meaning here, and Maria hopes that more people will see: the existence of women as artists themselves, not just the "muse of inspiration" in the eyes of the public.
2. Inherit from fashion dolls
Fashion is a strange circle.
The value focus of reincarnation is not the joke that the rough twist sweater knitted by the mother appeared on the catwalk 20 years ago, but whether a brand can use it to give classic new content to the current era. Just like Mr. Dior, who participated in the first Surrealist exhibition in 1933, and Maria, who pays tribute to surrealist female artists 87 years later; also like the fashion dolls of 1945 and 2020.
In 1945, at the end of World War II, all walks of life were greatly affected by the war, and the haute couture fashion market disappeared. In order to revive the French fashion industry and raise money for survivors, several fashion houses in Paris jointly organized the théâtre de la mode (Fashion Theatre). Mr. Kristen Dior, who was employed by the designer Lucien Leron at the time, was also involved in the creation of many works.
More than 200 fashion dolls created according to the 1/3 ratio of live models, dressed in French high-end works, arranged in the form of theater performances, declare to the world: haute couture, charm immortal.
théâtre de la mode not only sounded the gorgeous prelude to the fashion renaissance, but also inspired Mr. Dior to create the classic "new look".
Fashion, as a symbol of poetry and a happy life, can help people weave stories of emotions and dreams. So 55 years later, in the face of the fashion industry that was almost shut down due to the epidemic, Maria chose to pay tribute to "Dior Theater" with a fashion doll, and used it as a "magic prop" connecting the Greek gods with the real world, creating another milestone event in the legend of Dior.
From the classic plain Jouy print to the opulent flamboyant skirts, from the brand's signature buttons to the right lining, from intricate carving to a rich choice of fabrics... Dior craftsmen transferred the spirit of haute couture to 55 cm tall fashion dolls through millimeter-accurate embroidery and handmade pleats. The smaller specifications make the exquisite craftsmanship and touch texture of the high-end more perfect embodiment.
These glamorous fashion silhouettes reflect Dior's passion for exquisite craftsmanship, surviving as a precious source of inspiration and a symbol of hope, and opening the beautiful chapter of le mythe dior.
As a classic fashion brand with a history of more than 70 years, Dior has maintained the development balance line of "digitalization" and "classic heritage" with a strange rhythm.
On the one hand, it is taking the lead in embracing the era of digitalization and traffic. For example, in cooperation with Jordan, "to make handbags of the process standard" launched a limited number of sneakers, now a shoe is difficult to find; in the luxury queue, the first to register a b-station account; invite e-sports players as brand friends, in line with the rise of e-sports culture niche young people trend...
Source: Dior official Weibo
On the other hand, the exporters of brand ideas represented by Maria believe that high-end clothing must show its charm through the touch of cloth and skin, clothing and popularity, which is not achieved by digitalization.
So even at the moment when she can only do the show, Maria will send a miniature version of the high-end clothing to customers around the world, and send a life-size sample for them to try on; the brand still decided to hold a dior historical retrospective exhibition at the end of July, becoming the "crab eater" who has held a large-scale landing event in the fashion circle since the outbreak of the epidemic, preserving and inheriting the tradition and elegance of French haute couture with actions.
Campbell said in "Heroes with a Thousand Faces": "Myths are the dreams of all, and dreams are the myths of all people." In dior's innovation and interpretation again and again, myth is no longer a heroic legend far from the real world, but a spiritual secret that each of us can reach.
Dior, who sells dreams, is making himself a dream.
Resources:
1. Dior's official website
2. Dior's official Weibo
3. Maria Grazia Chiuri on dior's Fall/Winter 2020 haute couture collection
4. Depth | To create a global contemporary luxury brand, interview Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of womenswear at Dior
Author: Cathy
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