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"Clean the bell, less water, firewood smoke can not be burned." When he is self-familiar, he is not urged to urge him, and when the fire is full, he is self-beautiful. Huangzhou good pork, the price is as cheap as dirt. The nobles refuse to eat, the poor do not cook, get up in the morning to play two bowls, and are full of their own family. - "Ode to Pork"
Seeing "pork is as cheap as mud", don't get excited, this is about Huangzhou a thousand years ago, Su Shi, who was degraded in Huangzhou, could not eat mutton often, and his eyes fell on this inexpensive and potential ingredient.
As one of the traditional "six animals" in China, pigs have a very long history of domestication, according to the c14 and emission dating results of the Neolithic site in Wuyang County, Henan Province, which can be traced back to about 9000-7500 years ago in the New Era. [1]

The right mandible of a domestic pig excavated from the Jiahu Neolithic site in Wuyang County, Henan Province
Although the pig entered the human diet very early, it was not very serious, and it was recorded in the "Chinese Chu Language": "The Tianzi eats too firmly, the cattle and sheep are complete, the princes eat cattle, the Qing eats sheep, the doctor eats the pig, the soldier eats the fish, and the people eat vegetables." ”
Among them, the "feng" is both pork, although the lower level of the people can not eat, but it is true that there has been no cattle and sheep popular. And all this seems to have changed because of the emergence of Su Shi, from the Song Dynasty to the Ming and Qing dynasties, not only from the nobles to the commoners to eat more and more pork, but also more and more diverse methods.
The Qing Dynasty literati diners' representative, Yuan Ming's "Suiyuan Food List", recorded in detail the practices of pig heads, pig trotters, pig claws, pig belly, and pig lungs, totaling forty-three kinds, while the other meats added up to only thirteen methods.
"Suiyuan Food List" Qingqianlong Fifty-seven Years Of Kokura Mountain House Publication (like this version can click here to download)
In modern times, the domestic demand for pork has continued to grow, according to the National Bureau of Statistics data, pork in the meat consumption ratio, since the reform and opening up for a long time to maintain more than 50%, in recent years has been reduced can also reach about 40%.
In the past two years, under the publicity of the owner of NetEase Ding, the black pig has slowly returned to people's vision and has become a representative of high-quality pork in the eyes of many people. Even so, in most people's consciousness, when pigs are mentioned, they still have this look in their minds.
However, the truth is that the cute white pig "rampant" China has only a few decades of history, and in the longer history, the pigs on Chinese soil are the following color.
On this point, the Second Master brother could testify in person.
1962 opera film "Sun Wukong Three Dozen White Bone Essences" (based on Taihu Pig)
As for why black pigs have turned white, the reason is also very simple, mainly because the breeding rate of Chinese native pigs cannot keep up with the people's growing demand for meat. In 1950, the Soviet Union imported the first batch of 50 large white pigs into China, in the 60s, began to introduce Yorkshire pigs from Britain, in 1964, from Sweden to introduce 10 long white pigs and 10 male and female, in 1972 Nixon visited China with two American Duroc pigs. [2] [3]
There are about 400 kinds of pigs in the world, and China has 64 kinds of pork consumers, which is the largest number of countries. The so-called people are divided into three, six, nine and so on, the meat has five flowers and three layers, and there are naturally "stars" and "legends" in the world of pigs.
Great White Pig (Yorkshire Pig)
The simple Kesha pig is called Dabai, which, as the name suggests, is a domestic pig breed from Yorkshire, England. This variety was first recognized in 1868. It was one of the original founding breeds of the National Pig Breeders' Association, now the British Pig Association. The early history of the Great White Pig is difficult to trace. The earliest study of the drama is also a kind of Mixed Breed Pig of Asia and Europe. The new breed first gained attention at the Windsor Royal Show in 1831. [4]
This pig is also currently the most widely bred and widely bred breed. It grows fast, lean meat, produces more litters, adapts strongly, and can be said to be the perfect breeding pig breed. According to the results of the determination of large-group fattening performance of Hubei Academy of Agricultural Sciences, under good feeding conditions, the average daily weight gain of piglets from weaning to 90 kg is 689 grams, and the weight consumption per kilogram is 3.09 kg.
Long white pig
Native to Denmark. It is currently widely distributed in the world. It was crossed with Yorkshire pigs and Danish native breeding pigs in 1887 and was selected for a long time.
According to the Danish National Determination Center, in 1994, the boar was measured in the stage of 30 to 100 kg, the average daily weight gain could reach 960 grams, the feed conversion rate was 2.38, and the lean meat rate was 61.2%. The long white pig has the advantages of fast growth, high feed utilization rate, high lean meat rate, more litter production of sows, and better lactation performance.
Duroc Pigs
Native to the northeastern United States, its main parents are the Duroc pig in New York and the Jersey red pig in New Jersey, so it was originally named the Duroc Jersey pig.
The coat color is brownish red, which can range from golden to dark brown, and cherry red is the most popular. Duroc pigs can better adapt to the conditions of our country. With Duroc as the father and The hybrid offspring of local breed pigs in China, the growth rate, feed conversion efficiency and lean meat rate were significantly improved compared with the local breed pigs.
China's four famous pigs
Although the Chinese region is dominated by black pigs, the breeds are multi-local and strong, and they cannot be generalized by color. Among the many breeds of pigs, Rongchang pig, Taihu pig, Jinhua pig and Ningxiang pig are known as the four famous pigs in China.
Among them, the Rongchang pig is native to The two counties of Rongchang in Chongqing and Longchang in Sichuan, and the breed has been formed so far, and has a history of more than 400 years because of its iconic dark circles, which is known as the "giant panda of the pigs"
Rongchang pig is larger, except for the head with black spots, the whole body is white, the head size is moderate, the face is slightly concave, the ears are medium-sized, droopy, the body is long, and the development is uniform. The advantages are coarse food tolerance, good hybridization and stable genetic performance.
The Taihu lake pig is probably no stranger to everyone, it is the prototype of the second master brother, and it is also the most fertile pig in the world. Taihu pigs mature early, sows have 64 days of initial estrus, strong lactation ability and good lactation, and high littering. The lean meat rate is about 40%.
Jinhua pig, also known as two black pigs, is one of The famous excellent pig breeds in China, on April 15, 2013, the former Ministry of Agriculture of the People's Republic of China officially approved the implementation of agricultural product geographical indication registration protection for "Jinhua two black pigs". The raw material of Jinhua ham that everyone loves is it.
However, although the two blacks are good, they grow very slowly, ordinary pigs can grow to 240 to 250 pounds in 6 months, and the two heads of black can only grow 130 pounds in 1 year. Due to the growth too much to keep up with the demand, the two heads of the Jinhua region are also hybrid varieties. [6]
A pig is more than 200 pounds, different parts have different tastes and methods, as a traditional ingredient of Chinese cuisine, basically can eat and can not eat are made into dishes.
1 pork belly
Pork belly that people love and hate, love its fragrance and mind its fat, love its delicious tangles its complexity. If you love a person, take him to eat pork belly, because it tastes like the world, if you hate a person, take him to eat pork belly, and give him the "weight" of love.
The best pork belly is perfectly proportioned to the front of the abdomen near the front legs, with fat intertwined with lean meat and pink color. The second is the pork belly near the tip of the pig's rear buttocks, with three distinct flowers and three layers, the thickness of the fat and lean meat is equal, and the thickness of a whole piece of pork belly is about one inch.
Suitable for: Braised pork, Dongpo meat
Although pork belly is charming, there are still people who don't like to eat it, and if the popularity and acceptance are probably nothing compared with ribs. It can be stewed or fried, can be braised, can be wen can be martial arts can sell cute, don't care how reserved you are, nibble on it is just as cute.
The first point of picking ribs is to see that the color is preferably big red or bright red, the color is too dark may be too long. If it is a front rib, the ribs will have more meat than bones, the spine will have less meat than bones, and ribs will have more meat and smaller bones.
Suitable for cuisine: sweet and sour, braised, stewed, grilled, steamed
bear
Pork tenderloin is a strip of tender meat on the inside of the vertebrae of a pig. Large tenderloin and small tenderloin, large tenderloin is the outside of the lean meat connected by large ribs with tendons, usually after eating large ribs, it is tenderloin, small tenderloin is a muscle on the inside of the spine, and the fascia is more fleshy and less.
When picking the tenderloin, pay attention to the requirements of its ruddy color, transparent flesh, tight texture, elasticity, can be quickly recovered after hand pressing, and has a special pork umami taste.
Suitable for cuisine: sweet and sour tenderloin, shredded meat with Kyo sauce, pot bun meat
4 hind leg meat
For pigs such as even-hoofed animals, the hind legs are more forceful, so the relative meat will be harder, the lean meat will be more, and the fat and thin will be clear.
Pork hind leg meat is a meat dish that is very suitable for stews, and the use of pork hind leg meat to make stews can also make its taste more refreshing. Since there are more bones in the hind leg meat of the pig, we can directly use it to make braised pig trotters when making it.
Suitable for cooking: back pot meat, braised pork knuckle
5 front leg meat
The front leg meat is also called sandwich meat, lean inside with fat, fat and thin. Fascia is more, in general, the front leg meat is relatively tender, the taste is tender, suitable for dumpling filling, meatballs, but also suitable for family daily stir-fry, can be said to be the golden oil in pork. You can also chop the plum vegetables together to turn them into plum steamed meat cakes. Add shiitake mushrooms and eggs together and steam the pork custard with shiitake mushrooms. There are also pork stew noodles, mushroom steamed meat cakes and so on.
Suitable for cooking: Make a variety of fillings
Plum blossom meat is also called neck back meat, half of the pig's shoulders, lean meat, and beef with oil flowers, basically equivalent to the rib eye in the steak, but also the most suitable part of pork for frying. Of course, if you are a Guangdong people, then see the taste of char siu here is not already haunting your mouth.
The meat of this position can be said to be the best meat on the pig, a pig only has about 5 pounds of plum meat, if you are reluctant to spend a lot of money to buy steak, you can choose plum meat, the meat is also very soft and tender, the taste is a bit similar to steak.
Suitable for cuisine: char siu, pork chops
In addition to being used to call the person you are the rarest, "pig's head" is also popular as an ingredient. Both the marinade and the cold sauce taste very good, and it is also one of the essential dishes for drinking. The thick skin is old and elastic to eat.
Fresh and healthy pork, lean part of the color is bright red, the color is red or pink, if it is dark red is relatively inferior; the fat part is white or milky white, and the texture is relatively hard. Pork should be shiny, no liquid should flow out, and there are no spots on the surface of the meat.
Suitable for cooking: marinade, cold mix
Pig offal is definitely a big category, compared to the price often eat pig liver, pig heart, pork belly, large intestine, etc., and the practice of offal is very much, can be matched with a variety of ingredients, the magic of the pig offal can account for half.
Pick the pork liver and touch it with your hand. Feel elastic, no hard mass, edema, thick is normal pig liver In addition, some pig liver surface has rapeseed-sized small white spots, which is a kind of muscleification phenomenon in which the body protects itself after the pathogenic substance invades the body. Cut off the white spots and still eat them, but don't buy them if they are too many. Choosing pork belly should first see whether the color is normal. Secondly, look at the stomach wall and the bottom of the stomach for bleeding lumps or necrotic purple hair black tissue, if there is a large bleeding surface is a sick pig's belly. Select the pork loin first to see whether there are bleeding spots on the surface, and some people are not normal. Secondly, look at whether the shape is larger and thicker than the general pig loin, if it is large and thick, you should carefully check whether there is kidney redness and swelling. The method of examination is to cut the pork loin with a knife to see whether the cortex and medulla (between the white tendons and the red tissue) are blurred and blurry.
9 pig tails
Pig tail is an ingredient that many people ignore, but people who love to eat can't stop, pig tail is mainly skin, the more chewy the more fragrant, used to drink, the more you drink, the more you have, if you don't pay attention, you will get on the head. Good pig tail gelatin is rich, pig tail color is flesh color, if the color is too white or black pig tail is best not to buy.
The main component of pig tail is pig skin, so the content of fat in pig tail is relatively high, which is a high-fat food, for those who suffer from cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases, try to reduce the intake of fat, otherwise it will cause cardiovascular and cerebrovascular danger. Therefore, this type of person is best to eat less pig's tail.
Suitable for: marinade, soup
In ancient China, there was a saying that "no pig can not make a family". The Chinese character for "home" is actually a pig under the roof. Pigs that have witnessed the changes of countless countries in China must of course be delicious.
bibliography: Luo Yunbing, Zhang Juzhong, "Re-study of Pig Bones Excavated from Jiahu Site in Wuyang County, Henan Province", Archaeology, No. 01, 2008 Zhang Kewei and Jiang Shaowei, "Briefing on the Observation and Experiment of the Great White Pig of the Soviet Union", Journal of Shenyang Agricultural College, No. 01, 1962 Lian Hongbin and Zhang Hongli, "Introduction to Pig Breeds - The Main Pig Breeds Introduced in China", Heilongjiang Animal Husbandry and Veterinary Medicine Comprehensive Guidance Edition Zhang Farui and Chai Fuzhen, "Chinese Pig Transmission and Its Impact on the Improvement of Pig Breeds in the World", Pig Industry Science Zheng Piliu and Zhang Zhongge, "Chinese Pig Breed History", Pig Industry Science, No. 5, 2009 Fu Yingjie, "Investing 6 Million yuan to find the "fast-growing version" of the two-headed Wu Jinhua only raised 5,000 heads in two years", Qianjiang Evening News, 2014.07.22
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