"Everyone is scattered in the shadows of the lamp, and the porridge is buried in silence, and in the middle of the night, it seems to be more warm."
There is a saying in Shunde called "eating night porridge": saying that someone has eaten two bowls of night porridge actually means that he has practiced kung fu.
In the past, nan (hai) pan (yu) shun (de) area with the tradition of learning martial arts, many people work during the day, at night with the master to practice Hong quan, Wing Chun, in the middle of the night, the master and mother to bring out a pot of white porridge and a few buns to give the apprentice a supper, slowly, practice kung fu became "eating night porridge", the two traditional customs are like porridge rice for a long time and melted.
Good porridge is in the dark alley, the best porridge shop is usually not even a name, no local food master to do the road party will never find. XiaoSheng brother said that a porridge shop he often goes to, opened in the village, no name and no signboard, only sells one kind of fish fillet porridge all year round, but every day is to hundreds of fish to be fed.
Eating porridge in the life of Shunde people is like drinking water, and it is not easy for street porridge shops to pick out a bad one. These days and friends from all walks of life to chat about eating, Rong Gui people said that Rong Gui's porridge is the best, Daliang people actually said that Rong Gui's porridge is the best, we planned to come to Rong Gui to eat porridge.
Figure / Photo Network
Xiaosheng brother is a Guangzhou girlfriend specially introduced to Shunde, this person drives two hotels, usually racing, climbing, looking for food, in the Ronggui food circle has a "strange master" known.
Good porridge shops also have their own hours and will not go overboard to do business. Those who sell early porridge only sell early porridge, and close the stall before noon. A big well head meatball porridge recommended by the little brother, open at 5 o'clock in the morning, sell out at 7 o'clock, I can't get up early night owl ironclad can't eat; there are also only night porridge, the afternoon only began to prepare porridge bottom, seven or eight o'clock to open the file, until two or three o'clock in the morning.
At 22:30 p.m., the little brother got up and said: Let's go. He drove out a Golf R20 and began to lead us between the streets of Ronggui's burrow lanes.
▲Night porridge shop in Ronggui's small streets and alleys - Xinji snack shop (Photo by Zhang Lei)
The car is four-wheel drive, just as exciting as the racing car, a few push back feelings down, the original listless a few of us suddenly came to the spirit.
There are few pedestrians in the streets and alleys, most of the paving is closed, we pass through one such empty street after another, almost to doubt the existence of such a thing as the wonderful night porridge described by The little brother, wait for the car to hit a bend again, suddenly there is a steaming paving in front of the eyes, the lights and shadows are shaking, several small tables covered with pink tablecloths sit around the side of the three or five porridge people, stop and approach, only to see the old and vague sign on the lintel: "Xinji small food shop." ”
There are also two or three tables of guests in the house, the stove room is very crowded, the cabinet door is pasted with a handwritten porridge list, sixteen or seven kinds of meat ready to roll in a row: meat slices, beef, ribs, plate roots, pork hearts, piglets, pork liver, meat balls, fish balls, beef balls, fish bones, fish fillets, skin eggs, intestines, cuttlefish, dazzling. There is a small scale on the cabinet, which is specially used to weigh the meat, and the hostess told me: You ordered a bowl of beef ball porridge 15 pieces, and the beef on the market is about 60 yuan a pound, then I will weigh you 225 yuan of the next ingredient.
The corner of the shop where the tea was placed at the top attracted me, two layers up and down, neatly placed dozens of bottles of liquor, all of which were opened, and the remaining wine in it was different, and each bottle had scrawled names written in black and thick pen: Uncle De, Mushroom Boy, Gu Zai, Qiu Zai, Thirteen...
Documentary "Taste of Shunde"
Xiaosheng Brother said that the old man in Shunde has the habit of drinking while eating porridge, and these wines are stored by people who often come to eat porridge nearby, and they can continue to drink next time. Such a large pile of wine is basically two brands: Yubing Roast and Red Rice Wine. "Yubing roast is from Foshan Shiwan, and Hongli brand red rice wine is from Shunde, which is a local wine that locals like."
Watch those old people drink porridge, first slowly pick out the meat inside, dip the sauce, drink wine, and finally drink a bowl of porridge. When we entered the door just now, there was an old man sitting at the small table outside, sitting in the shadow of the lamp, unable to see his face, one foot propped on a chair, one hand holding a small glass of wine, and a person silently eating his night porridge.
We have actually reached the southern boundary of Ronggui, which is close to Zhongshan, Shishan East Road. Xiaosheng Brother said that this small "new record" has been open for more than twenty years, and the porridge bottom is very exquisite. What is the standard of a good pot of porridge in the eyes of Shunde people? If nothing else, the bottom of the porridge must be cotton, and only when the cotton is there is a rice fragrance. After I drank a few more, now I also have experience, first smell it, if the rice fragrance is permeated with the alkali aroma of rice dumplings, the taste of the bowl of porridge is generally not wrong.
It is best to use fresh brown rice for porridge, so that rice oil can be produced. The lady owner of "Xinji" told me that they had only used one kind of rice for so many years, which was tried repeatedly. In the process of boiling, you should put the orange peel, the more aged the better, but the variety is also very important, not what tangerine peel is put in to increase the good taste.
On the good tangerine peel on a thousand yuan a pound, some old porridge shops are also willing to use, just a few sips of the little brother asserted, "new record" of the tangerine peel taste good, must have used thousands of pieces. Check the quality of the tangerine peel, break it and smell it, bite it, and there is no bitter taste. A tangerine peel that can be used for about 10 servings of porridge. In addition to the tangerine peel, the bottom of the porridge should also put some jade bamboo and red dates, and the natural sweetness will not be excessive. Pay attention to it, add a little humus bamboo, and the porridge pot has the aroma of white beans.
The porridge usually takes more than two or three hours: the rice is washed, drained, and the pot is boiled and put in. The most taboo is to add water in the middle of the way, and the ratio of water and rice must be counted at the beginning. Add water halfway through, and old diners will definitely be able to eat it, because there will be what they call water vapor. If you use a coal stove and keep the temperature, the porridge bottom can be the same as the old fire soup, and it is not bad for many days.
▲ Beef ball porridge, porridge bottom is fragrant, to boil for three or five hours (Zhang Lei photo)
The bottom of the porridge is under different meats, with different fires. The ribs are slowly cooked, if the porridge bottom is too rolling, it will be cooked outside and inside, and the cooking time is too thick, so the raw rolling rib porridge is over medium heat. Chicken nuggets are easy to cook and can be simmered over high heat, while pork liver is simmered over low heat.
The marinating of raw materials is also exquisite, such as fish fillets can not put wine, but to put peanut oil and ginger, green onions; pork liver, ribs, chicken and meat slices should be marinated with ginger slices, rice wine ingredients, with koji wine taste is not good. Two or three kinds of raw materials can be matched with each other, how to build is not absolute, depending on personal preferences, but there are also certain habits, such as meat slices and fish fillets, beef and pork liver, beef and ribs...
Such collocations are more delicious and delicious. In recent years, the popular porridge water hot pot rice porridge, in fact, is also taken from the white porridge above the layer of porridge oil to make the bottom of the pot, a piece of beef put down, porridge oil quickly like a membrane to lock the moisture of the meat, with the temperature of the porridge to simmer it, so raw porridge and rice porridge under the beef will be particularly delicious.
After drinking the "new record" beef ball porridge, it was almost 23 o'clock, and I was completely sleepy and continued to follow the little brother flying car to find a second one.
Wan Ji Restaurant is located in a small alley next to Rong Gui's more luxurious Gordon Hotel. Compared with the "new record" just now, this door is more open, and the stove room is also open, but there are not so many guests.
Photo / Visual China
Xiaosheng brother said that the boss's nickname is "Big Clamp Wan", which means that people are reliable in Cantonese, and money is also tight. We ordered beef porridge, pork plate root and pork liver porridge. The porridge of this family is a little sweeter to eat, and the taste is slightly stronger, and The little brother said that the ingredients of the pickled raw materials may be different. As for the bottom of the porridge they value most, when they first drank a few sips, they felt a little thinner than the "new memory", but when they drank half of it, they felt good, and there was rice oil in the porridge.
After midnight, we were already standing at the door of the famous boat porridge with a note on the industrial road.
The industrial road was originally the only stone old street in Ronggui, with more shops. "With notes" three generations of porridge, very famous, the storefront is like a large vegetable market, dozens of tables lined up, people are noisy. I couldn't drink anymore, and suddenly tiredness struck, and I stood in the doorway and watched the bustle for a while. Thinking of the two small shops just now, everyone was scattered in the shadows of the lights, and the porridge was buried in silence, and in the middle of the night, it seemed to be more warm.