Hami is the ancient Silk Road must pass through the place, the cultural integration of various ethnic groups makes Hami embroidery stitching simple and delicate, the color is full and bright, and Hami Uyghur embroidery, in recent years, on the basis of inheriting historical traditions, integrates and absorbs the elements of the Central Plains culture and Xinjiang multi-ethnic culture, and gradually forms an embroidery technique with unique aesthetic concepts, pattern characteristics, stitching characteristics, so that Hami Uyghur embroidery in life more and more widely used, with the support of the government, more people also join the Hami Uyghur embroidery team. Let it carry forward in the inheritance.
Ethnic embroidery works.
Guzarinul Skan's embroidery pioneering road
On October 28, Guzarinur Skandan, a villager in Shazaojing Village, Huicheng Township, Yizhou District, Hami City, as the director of Hami Aga Khan Characteristic Industry Development Co., Ltd. and the ninth generation of family embroidery, came to the home of the hand-embroidered lady Ibadetti Abdulsu and sent her embroidery orders for the next month.
Ibadetti Abudusu has been working at Hami Aga khan characteristic industry development co., LTD. for five years, and five years ago, with the help of Aunt Aga Khan Saimati, he not only learned Uyghur embroidery, but also used his free time to increase his income from embroidery, which is also the epitome of Many embroidery girls in Hami.
Embroidery lady Ibadetti Abdulsu said: "I did not embroider before, came to the Aga Khan embroidery shop (company), after two months of learning began to do their own embroidery, now work here for five years, while taking children, while doing embroidery, a month can earn more than 1,000, I think it is very good, these five years I am particularly happy here, not only can earn money, but also the Uyghur embroidery culture can be passed on."
Awa Khan's daughter introduces products to customers in the embroidery exhibition hall.
Stick to the skills at your fingertips
Aga Khan Semati is the founder of Hami Aga Khan Characteristic Industry Development Co., Ltd. Walking into her family's courtyard, she saw an embroidery processing factory, and the entire courtyard not only had a factory building, but also a showroom filled with a variety of embroidery products. Inside the house on the first floor of the factory, Aga Khan, in his 70s, is teaching his daughter and granddaughter how to embroider by hand lace.
During the Qing Dynasty, a group of embroiderers in Huicheng Township made embroidery for King Hami, which has been passed down from generation to generation. Aga Khan is the most outstanding of these embroidered female descendants, she is not only a "national non-hereditary heir" and "Xinjiang arts and crafts master", but also a well-known peasant painter and paper-cutting expert in Hami. Since she was a child, she has studied embroidery with her mother under a sheep oil lamp, and over the years she has understood and mastered the essence of the traditional embroidery techniques of the Hami Uyghur people. As the seventh generation of the family's embroidery, Aga Khan's greatest wish is to pass on this family heirloom skill to her children and granddaughters.
The ethnic embroidery works of the embroiderers.
In 2005, due to the shortage of embroidery products in Aga Khan, his son Maihemuti Maimaiti, who had just graduated from university, came up with the idea of starting an embroidery factory and devoted himself to the embroidery business. In 2010, he and his mother opened a family-style embroidery processing factory, and after several years of development, Aga Khan's original embroidery factory was upgraded to Hami Aga Khan Characteristic Industry Development Co., Ltd. In order to carry forward the traditional art of hand embroidery and bring it to the market, in 2014 the government invested more than 2 million yuan to build an embroidery factory of more than 1,000 square meters integrating production, processing and office. At present, the company has 5 computer embroidery machines, more than 40 sewing machines, dozens of embroidery girls, and produces hundreds of handicrafts every day.
Aga Khan's daughter introduces products to customers in the embroidery exhibition hall.
With the courage to go forward and the family's exquisite embroidery skills, Hami Aga Khan Characteristic Industry Development Co., Ltd. made various embroidery products such as flower hats, tapestries, craft homes and other embroidery products are welcomed by the local people and tourists at home and abroad, and the products are in short supply.
While innovating and developing, Aga Khan has always insisted on passing on the skills at his fingertips. As the ninth generation of family embroidery, Guzarinur Skandan, 21 years old, has been embroidering since she was a child, and now, she has just graduated from college and can not only make various embroidery products, but also design a variety of Uyghur embroidery works, including pillows, women's clothes, flower hats, silk scarves, skirts, bags and dozens of other colors and design patent certificates.
"Recently I plan to combine our traditional Uyghur embroidery with modern elements to make some embroidery products that young people prefer, I have a lot of young friends who like Uyghur embroidery around me, we will learn Uyghur embroidery together, I also want to bring them to my team, passion for the enthusiasm of the younger generation, express their love for traditional culture, let more people know embroidery, inherit embroidery, protect embroidery." Guzarinul Skandan, granddaughter of Aga Khan Saimati, said.
Ethnic embroidery in the embroidery exhibition hall.
This family has made the embroidery industry prosperous, and the embroidery skills have not only won them respect and reputation, but also put them on the road of family embroidery industrialization, bringing a wealthy and hopeful happy life to the family.
Chief Designer
Khadr Heathmann
In the past two days, Hami embroidery Lang Kadel Rehmann, who has just participated in the "Xinjiang is a Good Place - Counterpart Aid Xinjiang 19 Provinces and Cities Intangible Cultural Heritage Exhibition" from Urumqi, is very happy, he not only received embroidery inspiration and orders from the exhibition, but also let more people know and understand Hami Uyghur embroidery through the exhibition.
Khadr Reheman, the inheritor of Uyghur embroidery in Hami City, said: "I am particularly happy after participating in this event, many people have seen our traditional embroidery works, as well as modern cultural and creative products, they especially like it, they want to order our works." We have all seen the works with local characteristics, and when I come back, I want to make more and better new works. ”
The 49-year-old Khadr told reporters that he was influenced by his family since he was a child, and at the age of 6, he could paint and design some simple flowers, plants, cows and sheep patterns, and later learned to cut paper. In June 2008, Hami Uyghur embroidery was included in the list of national intangible cultural heritage protection projects, which gave him more confidence in inheriting the traditional embroidery culture, and it was from that time that he really came into contact with embroidery and often participated in multiple embroidery training organized by the government. Because of his foundation in painting and paper-cutting, he mastered all kinds of embroidery techniques quickly.
In 2016, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism set up the first traditional craft workstation in Hami. Artron Culture Group, Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts, Shanxi Shrub Culture Media Co., Ltd. and Hami Municipal Government signed a cooperation agreement to jointly work on the protection and inheritance of traditional embroidery and market development of ethnic minorities including Hami Uyghurs and Kazakhs, and local embroidery girls have also gone to Zhengzhou, Guangzhou and other places to study many times. In the process of investigating and sorting out hami embroidery cultural resources, they found Khadr and invited Khadr to join Shanxi Shrub Culture Media Co., Ltd. and become the pattern designer of the "Shrub" team. Taking this opportunity, Khadr learned the use of fashion elements and modern drawing methods, and then designed the patterns, which are not only based on the local culture of Hami, but also combined with modern elements to give new vitality to traditional Uyghur embroidery.
At present, Kader is already the chief designer hired by Shanxi Shrub Culture Media Co., Ltd., every time Shanxi Shrub Company sends an order, Kader distributes the order to the professionally trained embroidery girls, and the embroidery works are also used in notebook covers, headphone shells, pillows, fans, clothing and other products. Today, Khadr's team of embroidered women has more than 120 people, all of whom are housewives from the countryside around Hami, and their annual income has increased from a few thousand yuan before training to tens of thousands of yuan today. More than 40 kinds of embroidery products are produced and sold throughout the country.
The work of Gena Guli Supian
Debut at Fashion Week
As the morning sun shines down on the streets, In the embroidery studio of the Yizhou District Cultural Center, Gena Guli Supian is making new Hami Uyghur embroidery patterns. Gena Guli is the fourth generation of the family's embroidery craft, and since she understood things, she has learned embroidery skills with her mother, starting from composition, drawing paper patterns, and threading needles and threads step by step. In June 2013, Gena Guli established the Ayirena Embroidery Professional Cooperative in Wubao Town and started her own business.
In March 2016, Qin Xu, shanghai original couture designer, founder and design director of Modern Box, was invited to Hami, and when he visited the Ayyena Embroidery Cooperative in Wubao Town, he was attracted by the exquisite embroidery skills of Rena Guli and her mother, and began to cooperate with Rena Guli all the time. At that time, Rena Guli did not expect that her embroidery could come to the fore at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week and Shanghai Fashion Week in France, precisely because of her skillful hand embroidery of the Hami Uyghur embroidery that made the designer marvel and became the finishing touch of haute couture fashion. Since then, with several appearances at well-known fashion weeks, Gena Guli has become busier and busier, and she has received orders not only from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and other countries, but also from Italy, France, Russia and other foreign countries.
"Since 2016, I have taken my works to fashion weeks every year, I really did not think that the works I made could be brought to Shanghai and Paris Fashion Weeks, hami Uyghur embroidery let the whole world know, can see, feel very happy." 」 Genaguli Supzi said.
As a master of arts and crafts in Xinjiang, in recent years, on the basis of inheriting and inheriting the traditional embroidery process of Hami, Gena Guli has made bold innovations in the color matching and pattern design of embroidery, so that Hami Uyghur embroidery has gone farther and farther with a modern atmosphere, and let the world see the exquisite Hami embroidery culture. At present, she has more than a thousand apprentices and has cultivated a group of young embroiderers with modern ideas.
In recent years, Hami City has promoted the construction of a five-in-one management system of "traditional craft workstation + association + cooperative + cooperative + embroidery girl", and realized the comprehensive protection, standardized management, standardized production, large-scale operation, brand marketing, full service and characteristic development of traditional embroidery technology. In 2018, traditional embroidery workshops were built in three townships, including Tianshan Township, Taojiagong Town, and Wubao Town, and the communication between hand embroidery workshops and workstations in remote areas was close. More than 90 embroidery inheritors of all ethnic groups have actively participated in the operation of hand embroidery workshops, and embroidery workshops have been established in hand embroidery workshops in various townships, combining order making with tourism product sales to achieve diversified income.
Since 2016, 11 hami traditional embroidery secret artists, 10 embroidery craftsmen, 23 star cooperatives, and 63 star embroidery girls have been named, which has played a leading role in demonstration. At the same time, since its establishment, the Hami Traditional Craft Workstation has organized 87 sessions of conventional embroidery training and 9 phases of university research and training, driving more than 7,000 local embroidery girls to receive training in embroidery skills and other aspects, and has developed nearly a thousand cultural and creative products, realizing the integration and development of culture, tourism and other industries, and driving more and more farmers and herdsmen to increase their income and become rich. At present, Hami City has established a perfect embroidery industry, with 26 township-level embroidery cooperatives and 58 village-level embroidery cooperatives, providing more than 10,000 jobs, and the per capita income has reached about 4,500 yuan.
In the future, we will further cultivate and expand the market, carry out the development and design of traditional Hami embroidery products, design and the introduction of new technologies and new processes to improve the quality of Hami Uyghur embroidery, and further increase the intensity of training, relying on various training methods and methods such as craft workstations and embroidery associations, cooperation between enterprises and mainland universities, to promote the development of Hami Uyghur embroidery characteristic cultural products in the market inside and outside Xinjiang, so that the excellent traditional culture of the Chinese nation will go out of Xinjiang, go abroad, and go to the world.
Source: Hami Release
Text/Photo: Ma Jingjing, reporter of Hami Rong Media Center, Mai Maiti
Edit: Tan Yun
Editor-in-charge: Wang Haopeng