HISTORY
Song Yu wrote in "Deng Disciple's Lustful Endowment": "Increasing one point is too long, subtracting one point is too short; powder is too white, Shi Zhu is too red; eyebrows are like green feathers, muscles are like white snow; waist is like a bundle, teeth are like shells", vividly outlining the image of an Oriental Venus. It is human nature to love beauty, and who doesn't want to be more beautiful? As a result, various makeup techniques came into being.
The earliest makeup can be traced back to the prehistoric period, when the ancestors painted various colors on the face and body to show their identity and status; but at that time, most of the makeup people were men, and after a long period of development, women became the protagonists of makeup.
People in ancient China didn't have as many cosmetics to choose from today, but that didn't dampen their passion for makeup. Through their industrious hands, Huaxia ancestors used a variety of natural raw materials to develop colorful cosmetics. Like today's diverse cosmetics, ancient Chinese cosmetics can be divided into several major types.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="7" > makeup powder</h1>
Chinese has always paid attention to "a white cover up a hundred ugliness", and makeup powder is the most basic cosmetics.
Ancient makeup powder, in terms of materials, can be roughly divided into two large categories. The first is made by crushing rice grains and adding spices, so the word "powder" is from "rice" to "points". The other is made of soil, mercury and lead, collectively known as "lead powder".
Yunhui Yun: "The ancient Fu noodles were also made of rice flour, and then dyed into red powder, and then burned into lead powder." ”
From this record, it can be inferred that rice noodles, which contain dozens of vitamins and are very beneficial to the health care of the skin, are an ancient kind of elder-level cosmetics.
In order to purify the skin, the ancients grinded large grains of rice into a very fine powder of makeup, which had a rather complicated process.
According to the Northern Wei Jia Sixun "Qi Min Zhi Shu" record, the high-quality millet is crushed into the sink, washed until the water is clear, the finely minced rice is filled with a large urn, soaked in water to make it soft, until the urn is opened, the sour smell can be faintly smelled, and then take out the taoqing, grind the finely minced rice into powder, add water to the powder, stir evenly, and then put the white rice flour juice into a silk bag, let the filtered rice juice deposited in the urn, take the powder of its deposition, grind it for the third time, and then add water to stir and seal it in the urn. When the water is still and the powder layer is accumulated at the bottom of the urn, scoop off the upper layer of water, take out the powder juice and stir it in a wooden basin to let it automatically deposit and form. After the powder layer is dried, use a knife to cut the powder into various shapes. In this way, the snow white and smooth makeup powder is made.
"Pink Ying", made from rice noodles, is widely used by women as a most basic makeup powder. At the same time, people also add various ingredients to it, such as adding red pigments to become red powder, adding spices to become incense powder.
The second type of material used in makeup powder, including soil, mercury and lead, and soil, is a kind of white clay with a fine and uniform texture, which can be applied after a little treatment.
Mercury powder, according to legend, was created by the immortal man Xiao Shi for Qin Mugong's beloved daughter Langyu during the Warring States period, and the Jin Dynasty Cui Bao's "Ancient and Modern Notes" said: "Xiao Shi and Qin Mugong refining Fei Xuedan, the first turn and get jade painted, now the mercury greasy powder is also." It can be seen that at least in the Jin Dynasty, it was more common to make up with mercury greasy powder. Some people say that it began in three generations, such as Jin Zhanghua's "Natural history" Yun: "Burning lead as powder, called Hu powder, that is, lead powder." Tang Ma Mu's "Notes on Ancient and Modern Chinese" Yun: "Since three generations, lead has been used as powder."
Some people believe that the lead powder noodles originated from the Han Wei, where the wind of alchemy was very hot. We believe that the emergence of lead powder is later than rice flour, but the ancients' understanding of lead powder was not a way of alchemy, and its emergence should have preceded the Han and Wei dynasties.
In addition to rice flour and lead powder, ancient women's makeup powder was also made with other substances.
For example, in the Song Dynasty, there was a "jade female peach blossom powder" made of motherwort and gypsum powder.
In the Ming Dynasty, there was "pearl powder" made from purple jasmine seeds.
In the Qing Dynasty, "stone powder" made of talc and other fine and soft ores was used.
The color of the powder has also increased from the original white to a variety of colors, and a variety of precious spices have been incorporated to make it more charming. The color of the skin, especially the color of the facial skin, is one of the important factors in the evaluation of women's beauty and ugliness in ancient times.
In China's ancient aesthetic standards, the beauty of the skin such as gelatin, muscle such as snow, has always been white, ruddy skin color for beauty, so the decoration of the skin is also reflected in the "grease powder".
Tracing the history of the development of makeup powder, as early as the pre-Qin period, China's women were mainly white makeup, and in the historical books at that time, everywhere can see the records of "pink white and black", "powder with Fu noodles". According to legend, Xiao Shi once created a white powder "Fei XueDan" for his beloved woman Tonyu.
In the Wei and Jin dynasties, the use of white powder to cover the noodles, the influence spread to men, became a fashion, and a number of "pink Hou clans" appeared in society. Among them, there are famous people who can be used, such as Cao Zhi, the prince of the Wind Andliu, and He Yan, the son-in-law of the Cao family.
According to historical records, He Yan "has a beautiful posture and a white face,...... Sexual self-satisfaction, moving and quiet white do not go to the hand. "Once Emperor Wei Ming saw that he was quite white and pure, suspected that it was because of the powder, so he invited him to eat hot soup cakes on a hot day, and he ate he feasted and sweated, and after wiping it with his clothes, it was even whiter and purer, so that everyone was convinced.
Under the Han and Wei dynasties, the noble ladies of the Tang Dynasty always liked to wear red makeup, but the plump but good at making a delicate posture of the noble concubine Yuhuan, in order to highlight her chuchu pitiful state and cater to Emperor Xuanzong's habits, was also an advocate of white makeup. She likes to be in the face. On the decal, but once the flower makeup on the surface is removed, only white powder and black are used, and the concubines in the official rush to follow suit, and apply powder to the cheeks, calling each other "tear makeup". Concubine Mei, who often competed with the noble concubines for jealousy, was also "self-deprecating Xie Nu (referring to Xie Daoyun), light makeup and elegant clothes, and the posture was bright and beautiful, which could not be described." ”
In the Ming Dynasty, the 29th time in the "Golden Bottle Plum" remembered Pan Jinlian, only because Ximen Qing praised Li Zhen'er's white purity in Jade Xuan, "he secretly stirred the jasmine flower Rui'er with ghee powder, and rubbed it all over his body, making it white and smooth, and the fragrance was delicious, and he wanted to take his favor." ”
It can be seen that people at the time regard white skin as beauty, which is no wonder that Li Yu at the end of the Ming Dynasty was in his "Casual Love". It is necessary to express the feeling that "the essence of a woman is the most difficult to be white.".
There is a Qing dynasty, women's white makeup powder, whether it is powder or production, has a very high level. Ru Ciyuan: The empress dowager's makeup powder. It is said that it is carefully selected new white rice and a kind of chen rice that has been slightly purple in color, which has been refined and purified many times, mixed in strict proportions, and then added a small amount of lead powder and precious spices, made with special tribute water. Because this makeup powder is lubricated and easy to adsorb on the surface of the skin, So Lafayette's twilight years are still delicate and delicate, which is surprising.
Similar to china's traditional red makeup and white makeup, ethnic minorities living in the frontier in history also often use various natural objects in the natural environment as raw materials for making cosmetics. In addition, the Mongols of the Ming Dynasty also wiped their faces with vermilion powder.
As far as the modern ethnic minorities are concerned, in addition to the same as the Han people, they like to "grease and powder", in addition to skin care and beauty, the northern ethnic groups like to use animal oil to smear the face, the southern ethnic groups mostly rub some aromatic vegetable oil on the face, and even some ethnic groups also use the painted face in theatrical performances.
For example, Bao Zheng in the play "Bao Gong Beheads Wu Xianwang" of the Buyi people is praised by the Buyi people as a symbol of the god of selflessness, support for righteousness and dethronement, elimination of violence and peace, and yin and yang. Therefore, when modeling, do not decorate the face, take the bridge of the nose as the boundary, paint the face with black and white, the left face is blackened as "pipe yin", and the right face is smeared with white "pipe yang". The Yao, Xibe, Dahuo, Dongxiang and Hui ethnic groups in some parts of China all have the custom of "smearing their faces".
When the Uzbeks in Xinjiang's Yining Kashgar and Urumqi and the Turks in the Zhuoni region of Gansu province hold weddings, they apply white noodles and fried noodles to the faces and foreheads of guests respectively. The Pumi and Naxi people put a little butter on the foreheads of the bride and groom to show their blessings.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="104" > eyebrows</h1>
In the whole makeup process, the most important thing for ancient Chinese is the eyebrows, which is the so-called "eyebrow clear eye show". There are also many good stories about eyebrows, such as "Zhang Chang Thrush" is about the harmony of husband and wife, Zhuo Wenjun's "Yuanshan Dai" has been popular for a thousand years, and it is also written in the Book of Poetry: "The moth eyebrows of the mantis, the smile is playful, and the beautiful eyes are longing." ”
The main tools required for thrush are tweezers, daisy, pestle, eyebrow pencil, dai, etc. The general step is to first remove part of the eyebrows, modify the eyebrow shape, and then grind the stone or green dai on the dai, and then use the eyebrow pencil to dip the polished dai material to draw the eyebrows. Mawangdui No. 1 Tomb has unearthed 1 piece of horn tweezers in the double-layer jiuzi tomb, which is arbitrarily removed and mounted, and the tweezer handle is finely made and engraved with geometric patterns. At the same time, three scrapers of different lengths and shapes were unearthed.
Dai is an ore, also known as "bluestone" and "stone dai", which belongs to the category of graphite in mineralogy. Because of its floating texture and can be applied to the eyebrows, it also has the elegant name of "thrush stone". Before the invention of tobacco ink, men used it to write and women to draw eyebrows. Shi Dai should be placed on a special Dai Yan and ground into powder, which can be used directly with water. A bluestone dai yan was excavated from the Western Han Tomb in Nanchang, Jiangxi; a Dai Yan from the Eastern Han Dynasty was unearthed in Xinzhuang, Taizhou, Jiangsu Province, and there were dai traces glued to it; and a piece of powdered black shi dai was also found in a Han Dynasty comb box unearthed in Luobo Bay, Guixian County, Guangxi.
There are also many physical excavations of eyebrow pencils, such as the excavation of 1959 in jinning shizhai mountain ancient tomb group in Yunnan Province, M23 lacquer 2 pieces, one of which is numbered M23:7 there are 3 copper needles, all set with small copper pen sets, one like picking needles, two like eyebrow pencils, but the pen head has decayed. Xuzhou Dongdianzi Western Han Tomb M1 found lacquer eyebrow pencil 3, cylindrical, hard wood, with an iron core inside, painted on the outside, one end is round, with holes, red color. Tomb No. 57 of the Bozidun Ancient Tomb Group in Wensu County, Xinjiang unearthed 2 sets of eyebrow pencils and eyebrow stones, the eyebrow pencils are made of fine sandstone, the eyebrow stones are black irregular stones, and the eyebrow pencils are rubbed on the eyebrow stones to produce black powder, which can be painted eyebrows.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="105" > rouge</h1>
Rouge is a collective name for facial fat and lipstick, and there are also names such as "YanZhi", "Tobacco Branch", "Fresh Branch", "Swallow Branch", "Swallow Fat" and so on. Facial fat is today's blush, and lipstick is today's lipstick. The earliest rouge appeared more than 5,000 years ago in the Hongshan culture period of the large-scale ceramic goddess - "face painted red color", "lip painted Zhu" "color bright red when unearthed", indicating that as early as the Neolithic age people may have used cosmetics on the face and lips, most likely early "rouge". Among the bronze masks excavated from the Sanxingdui Cultural Site in Guanghan, Sichuan, the face and lips were also painted with cinnabar.
Regarding the origin of rouge, there are two kinds of records in the literature: one is the Jin Dynasty Cui Bao's "Ancient and Modern Notes": "Yanzhi, leaves like thistle, flowers like dandelions, out of the West, the natives dye, named Yanzhi, Chinese is called red and blue, with dyeing powder as the face, for Yanwen powder", the "West" here refers to today's Qilian Mountains in Gansu, this place was called "Yanzhi" in ancient times; the other is named by "Fu", "Fu" refers to the wife of the Xiongnu nobles, because these noble women often decorate their faces with "Fu", so "Fu" It became synonymous with them. Rouge is said to have been brought back to the interior by Zhang Qian from the Western Regions. In the Yuan Dynasty, special agencies such as the "Safflower Bureau" and the "Safflower Lifting Division" were set up to manage it.
The raw materials and production methods of flour fat and lipstick are different, the raw material of flour fat is generally a flower called "red and blue", while the mouth fat is mostly made of cinnabar mixed with grease. The raw material of the flour fat, red and blue flowers, the petals contain red and yellow pigments, when the flowers bloom, they are plucked in their entirety, and then placed in a stone bowl and repeatedly pestle and mallet, after removing the yellow juice, it becomes a bright red dye. The "Botanical Names and Facts" records: "There are red and blue flowers here, and the northerners take their flowers as swallow branches, and women use them as colors when they make up, such as beans, and they are all over the cheeks according to the order, and they are particularly distinct." ”
The Mawangdui Han Tomb unearthed a double layer of nine-fold lacquer, the lower bottom plate is 5 cm thick, 9 chisel grooves, and 9 small grooves are placed in the grooves, including 2 oval pieces, 4 round pieces, 1 horseshoe shape, and 2 rectangular pieces. Among them, white powder cosmetics, white square-shaped cosmetics, silk wool, wigs (wigs are woven for human hair), silk puffs, rouge, oily cosmetics, etc., and the incense powder with puffs has a sense of "fragrant sponge lightly blowing rouge".
The raw material of lipstick - cinnabar is a red mineral pigment, also called "Dan", the main ingredient is sulfur mercury, and contains a small amount of iron oxide, clay and other impurities. But the cinnabar itself is not sticky, such as it is applied to the lips, it will soon be dissolved by the mouth foam, so the ancients in the cinnabar mixed with an appropriate amount of animal fat paste to make lip gloss, both waterproof performance, but also add color luster, but also to prevent lip chapped. The actual object of lip grease has been found in the Western Han tombs in Yangzhou, Changsha and other places, and it was still placed in the makeup when it was excavated, although it was buried in the ground for more than 2,000 years, but the color is still bright red and dazzling.
Ancient lipstick is also like today's lipstick, divided into different colors, from poetry and literature can be known that "vermilion lips" and "dan lips" refer to red lip fat, "sandalwood" refers to light red lip fat, "lips" refers to dark red lip fat, "black lips" refers to black paste or black lip fat.
Among the burial items in the Huohe Western Han Tomb in Haizhou, Lianyungang, Jiangsu Province, there is a set of lacquer makeup from the female coffin, and a small round box contains red rouge, which has been identified as mercury sulfide. Red materials were found in the celadon cups in the front of the tomb chamber of the Sun Wu period in Wulidun, Ezhou, Hubei Province, and the interior was well preserved, showing a bright red block, and a certain degree of greasiness. After chemical analysis, the red substance is mainly a mixture of ultra-fine cinnabar powder and grease, etc., and it is speculated that it may be an ancient cosmetic product concocted, or it may be "rouge" or "lipstick".
In the Tang Dynasty, lipstick was called "lip fat", and at this time, lipstick was not exactly a paste placed in the box, but was processed into a solid and placed in a special box and tube. Yuan Shu's "Biography of the Warbler" wrote: "... It is not difficult to see from the "five inches of lipstick" that the lipstick of the Tang Dynasty has been made into a tube shape, close to the modern lipstick.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="106" ></h1>
Hua dian is also a kind of decorative cosmetics loved by ancient Chinese women, and the poem "Mirror before and after the flower, the flower surfaces are mirrored" is to describe the scene of women decorating the flower on the mirror.
The flower is made of gold and silver and is attached to the forehead or sideburns as a decoration. There are many types of tungsten, and the one that sticks to the cheeks is the tin. The "flower yellow" in the commonly referred to as "mirror appliqué yellow" is also a kind of flower tin. There are also gold leaf sheets, black light paper, fish cheeks, screw shells and mica sheets made of various shapes and pasted on the forehead.
There are different ways to say the origin of the flower tin, and it can be seen that the image of female providers since the Middle Tang Dynasty in the Dunhuang murals is mostly decorated with plum blossom makeup. The color of the flower is red, green, yellow, etc., and even dragonfly wings are used to make flower tin, which is recorded in the "Qing YiLu" written by The Song Dynasty Tao Gu: "The people of the Later Tang Dynasty or the net obtained dragonflies, loved its green thinness, so they painted their wings with a gold pen and made small folded branches and flowers." ”
The medium for pasting the flower tin was mostly used in ancient times. Oh glue is produced in the north, made of fish maw, excellent stickiness, women use it to paste the flower, just breathe on it, and dip a small amount of mouth liquid, you can easily paste the flower tungsten to the face. The "Liao Shi Shi Shi Zhi Zhi" records: "Chen Jiru's "True Pearl Ship" said: 'Oh glue out of the trap, you can feather arrows, and it is suitable for women to decal tungsten, and he boo with melting, so it is called he glue. When removing makeup, just apply hot water and you can take it off.