In the past two years, due to the strong involvement in the entire industry, various trends have wave after wave, and many brands have not been able to rectify it. For example, a moment of high concentration of polypeptides, a moment of vitamin A and vitamin C, and then a smorgasbord, today you sell 199, tomorrow I sell 99, I don't know when it is a head.
It's hard to make money anyway.
This trend is so for small companies, there is actually an impact on large companies, in the past some brands only talk about tonality and high-end experience, and now they have begun to talk about xx ingredients have XX effect, immediately from liberal arts students to science students, as if overnight everyone has become eager to learn.
However, for the sake of their own face, big brands will not "delegate" themselves to the same status as ordinary brands, even if they add the same ingredients, they will make up a more mysterious name. In addition, because this big card has money and does not panic, it let the scientists of the research and development department work hard 996, study the skin thoroughly, and find out some "metaphysical technology", which scares many people into a daze.
Today I will tell you what these god-like metaphysical technologies are doing. After listening, whether it is ten moves to refuse, or do not know how to be strong, it is rewarding!
Circadian rhythm Epigenetics Longevity genes
Hearing these few words, it is estimated that everyone knows that this must be a noun that Estée Lauder often uses to scare people, Ya Niangniang has sold quite well in recent years, in addition to the fact that the product is really good, she often makes some fresh things, so that many opponents can't keep up.
For example, the circadian rhythm is about the concept of the biological clock, the human body works regularly at night during the day, and the skin is also like this, the "little people" work in the day and night are not the same, and the night is relatively more inclined to self-repair.
But when you're too tired or the day and night are reversed, this mechanism will be confused, so like the classic small brown bottle used for decades of "clock myoin" technology (including tripeptide-32 and some extracts), it is about how to adjust the skin's biological clock to make the skin repair better.
Estée Lauder said circadian rhythm, not casual nonsense, their family has published a paper several years ago to demonstrate the importance of this mechanism to the skin, and there is a lot of evidence about the regulation of rhythm in small palm bottles, such as before they used a "metabolomics" research method, proving the strength of small palm bottles to maintain stability.
If the circadian rhythm can still be understood, then the "epigenetics" mentioned in the seventh generation of small brown bottles may be a little confused, and many people still understand genetics a little (the high school biology teacher is very pleased), but epigenetics, what is it?
To put it in layman's terms, this technology is to affect some physiological characteristics of the skin through those methods that do not change the DNA of the cells (otherwise it is a genetic mutation), such as promoting skin repair and anti-aging, etc., including DNA methylation, histone acetylation, and microRNA technology in small brown bottles.
Yes, their literature published last year talked about the impact of a tiny RNA (MircroRNA-146a) on skin inflammation, repair and so on. As for the patent, it was applied for in 2018 (US20180125778A1), and it can work for many years in the future without worrying about being imitated.
The core technology is the "baobab seed extract" selected in the seventh generation of small brown bottles, after using it, the state of senescent cells can be reversed to a certain extent, bringing about an increase in the expression of collagen I and III, an increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis and so on.
To the high-end line of Estée Lauder, they have thrown out the concept of "longevity genes", and the longevity drugs that have been popular in the past two years seem to be a bit similar, believe it or not, there are still very, very many people who want to live forever with their own skin.
In fact, longevity genes and longevity drugs are really a bit related, are related to a longevity protein of the human body, it involves cell repair, energy regeneration, etc., it is said that the human body is a hidden deep "potential" device, only in extreme environments (hunger, cold, heat) will be stimulated, usually relatively silent.
Like Estée Lauder's platinum and black gold threads, through yeast extract, palm kelp extract, resveratrol, etc., four of the seven SIRT genes can be regulated at the same time, and related mechanism studies have also been published in the literature.
Estée Lauder Platinum Thread Products
In short, their family is in a serious metaphysics, with this layer of scientific and technological coat, spending a few thousand to buy products may not feel like a loss...
Cell total switches AMPK zombie cells
Ya Niangniang came to this out, L'Oréal Group must be looking in the heart, itching in the heart, thinking that I have such a good use of Bosein, how can not tell these metaphysical technologies, skin microecology this topic has been said to be rotten is not embarrassed to take out, so in the past two years their family is also engaged in metaphysics.
For example, the new version of Lancôme pure essence, Bosein, bifide yeast and so on must have been put in, but a new concept was added - the cell total switch AMPK activation technology.
Lancôme Pure Essence
At that time, student sex felt like the biggest scam of the 21st century, but now looking back, don't learn some biology, let alone genetic modification and the like, skin care products can't understand... This AMPK signaling pathway, to put it bluntly, is to regulate the energy of the cell, with this switch, the energy of the cell can keep up, followed by repair, whitening, anti-aging ah have a relationship. Senescent cells, the AMPK inside is definitely weaker, be sure to give it some forced needles.
In Lancome's overwhelming publicity, it is particularly emphasized that AMPK is a general switch, so what you Estée Lauder said about autophagy, longevity genes, rhythms, all play a role under me, without me you are nothing, this is the obvious meaning of PK.
What to use to regulate AMPK turned out to be the rose extract that I had always felt before in storytelling.
This rose extract seems to be used only by Lancôme, L'Oréal's other brands are rarely involved, and on closer inspection, it contains a relatively high content of terpenoids, which does have a effect on AMPK (of course, caprylylsalicylic acid in the formula can also activate AMPK, but the name is too low to be worth putting on the table).
Lancôme so actively talk about metaphysics, L'Oréal is not to be outdone, this year their home upgraded the third generation of black essence, which has an additional sphingosine monomycosmum extract, which is their family metaphysical technology - reduce the source of zombie cells, it seems that the small black bottle does not want to go to repair, the end of the universe is anti-aging.
Zombie cells say that when the cell ages, the two proteins p16 and p21 associated with cell senescence will affect the normal cycle of the cell, so that the renewal of the cell stagnates, becoming a zombie cell, free radicals and collagen degradation will inevitably occur.
If the skin is to be better repaired and younger, then it is necessary to prevent this "zombification". So after this sphingosine monomers extract is added, it can inhibit the two proteins of p16 and p21, and the original loose structure of the aging skin suddenly becomes very solid and firm, as if it is stronger than tretinoin.
Okay, Lancôme can't afford it, and L'Oréal Black Essence is not bad to make one.
NRF2 Autophagy Cell Grip Oxygen
Integrin Dermal cavitation
The two major groups are competing for glory, and the other big names are certainly not willing to show weakness, after all, who does not have some R & D scientists to support it?
For example, OLAYA, which has been saying that niacinamide is non-stop, in their new product this year - the super red bottle, also mentioned a NRF2 repair pathway, which is known as the skin detoxification system pathway, the fight against free radicals is first-class, and OLAYA also found that the skin can also activate it when doing medical aesthetic projects such as thermogi and laser.
Olay Super Red Bottle
Subsequently, OLAY used a special set of peptide combinations (of course, there are still niacinamides) to prove that with this combination, the activation degree of NRF2 is also very high, and the paper is also there.
In fact, in the past two years, OLAYA's research action is still quite fast (in addition to the formula refuses to give up its own niacinamide), such as the hot topic of autophagy, their previous streamer bottle is to use low pH and niacinamide to activate the autophagy pathway, so that the skin to achieve a smooth and translucent effect, and also published a high score literature.
And looking at the very gentle and harmless Clarins, in recent years, she has also begun to play advanced metaphysics, and it is estimated that she also wants to build herself into a noble lady brand with a sense of technology. For example, the "cell oxygen grasping technology" used in the light small porcelain bottle of their home is actually a technology that improves the ability of the intracellular mitochondria to take up oxygen, and the core ingredient is the myrtle extract and the acerola cherry extract inside, which is a bit of a red bull or coffee for the cells.
Glow small porcelain bottle
Since mitochondria are related to the energy of the whole cell, if the energy level can be raised by a grade, the cell will no longer be hypoxic, the overall metabolism will be accelerated, and the skin will become white and tender.
Double Serum Eye Cream
As for the newly released double essence eye cream this year, the technology used is even more mysterious, and I have encountered a blind spot in knowledge. In order to emphasize the sense of technology, Clarins chose a branch of the dermal integrin, alpha V integrin, to achieve anti-aging purposes by regulating its signaling pathways.
This integrin, which is not as familiar as collagen and elastin, is just an adhesion protein attached to the surface of the cell, and then Clarins also selected one of the 24 integrins, which makes the average consumer look confused, and there is really no way to explain (is it not enough to pay for it).
The European and American departments are so metaphysical, the metaphysical Buddha-figure Japanese brand, naturally not to be outdone, Shiseido is a good hand inside, and the things spoken are completely different from the European and American departments. In fact, although Shiseido is a little low-key, it has done a lot of research, frequently publishing its new findings at international conferences (such as IFSCC, various dermatological annual meetings), such as the more famous "dermal tissue hollowing" in previous years, which reveals the mechanism of skin aging.
They studied aging skin and found that the dermis inside would form a cavity and then be filled with subcutaneous fat, so the skin would appear more sagging.
In order to deal with this hollowing out, Shiseido chose rosemary extract to induce adipose stem cells to become dermal fibroblasts, and refilled this cavity, which is really a mysterious operation.
Although the operation is fascinating, this discovery is still very interesting, whether it is in Shiseido, CPB or its Opale products, such technology is widely used. For example, in the Yuewei line:
Yue Wei Po Fei firming night cream
Small summary
After watching so many big-name metaphysical technologies, do you feel more confused? For these big brands, it doesn't make much sense to nag about vitamin A alcohol, polypeptides, etc., and it is difficult to open the gap between small brands, so it does make sense to do some innovative research and breakthroughs.
Although some technologies are still at the level of cell experiments, or the degree of real effect is not so large, but the cutting-edge things are like this step by step, 30 years ago the polypeptide is not the same metaphysics, now everyone knows everyone knows.
Of course, with so much metaphysical technology, you can also learn a little biology and chemical knowledge while using products, isn't it also very good?
Graphic design: Squeezed vegetables / Responsible editor: pear
Reviewer: Yan An Tang Skin Management Research Institute
Some of the pictures come from the web
This article was originally created by the content team of Yan An Tang,
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