Cusso
Enoshima in the evening
Enoden, which runs from Fujisawa to Kamakura, is just at the 10th stop, and there is a place called "Inamurasaki", which used to be a quiet station with no name. On a clear day, Mt. Fuji can be seen from the nearby seaside park, but there are no sightseeing spots. However, things have changed since the summer of a few years ago, and tourists often come out of the station and walk in the direction of the back hill to the north, and after 5 minutes of passing through the quiet alleys of the residential area, a restaurant built halfway up the mountain will appear in front of them, and a warm curtain hangs on the gate next to the railway, and its name is printed on it: Haicai Temple.
This restaurant is a restaurant with Seasonal Vegetables from Kamakura, Yayama Beef and Loin Yueji Fish as the main ingredients, and dinner should be reserved a day in advance, so if you rush to go at lunchtime, you will encounter a full scene. At noon when I went, the boss looked around the overcrowded store and said apologetically: "According to the current situation, can I come back after 2 o'clock?" "However, even after 2 o'clock, the number of guests is still endless. The most popular signature lunch here, called the "Kaiseji Shuncai Set," includes four seasonal side dishes, vegetable salad, Sagami Bay fresh fish sashimi, shonan-grilled fish with sauce, beef rice bowl, and miso soup, and is priced at 6,000 yen – even in Kamakura, known as the "back garden of a rich man's home," it's not a cheap lunch.
Sea Vegetable Temple
Haicai Temple has been open tepid for 10 years, and it is suddenly very lively. The reason for this was that at that time, a summer moon nine called "People with a Favorite" (a Japanese drama broadcast at the Golden Theater at 9 p.m. on Fuji TV's Monday (Moon Day)) was being broadcast, and the seaside restaurant "SeaSons" jointly operated by the three brothers was based on this store. There is summer, there is the sea, there is fireworks, there is pure love, who does not want to meet Yamazaki And Shohei Miura once? I was also one of the many tourers, and I sat down to realize that although there were three staff members in the store, it was far from the teenager in the play. But he wasn't frustrated, because the chef was truly senior: he worked hard in a kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo as a young man, then worked in five-star hotels in the United States, Malaysia, and Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Taiwan, and settled in Kamakura after returning to Japan 10 years ago.
From the terrace of Kainaiji Temple, you can see the Kamakura min's house with the sea
The chef told me that the crew came every week to shoot and the restaurant didn't pay for advertising: "I heard that the producer of that TV station often hangs around and has visited our shop by chance before." After the meal, the dessert was served, and he suggested: "It's not so sunny at noon, do you want to go to the terrace and sit for a while?" "I stood on that terrace and suddenly remembered a familiar scene: in another Japanese drama , Penultimate Love " ( hereinafter referred to as "Inverted Two " ), Koizumi and Takaichi Nakai also sat here and talked about life. That series came from the same TV station as "Someone with a Favorite", interspersed with a lot of empty footage, which can be used as a promotional film for Kamakura Scenery. In this way, the "accidental patronage" of the producer in the mouth of the owner of kaiseji temple is not accidental at all, and it is obvious that he should be the legendary "Kamakura poisoning syndrome" patient.
The "Kamakura poisoning syndrome" is mostly caused by "love for the Shonan coast", and the onset of the disease is "basically in the summer". This disease cannot be cured, and any of the following words will aggravate the patient's illness: the sea, the sunset, the tram, youth, love, aquarium, fireworks... I looked out from the terrace of Kainai-ji Temple, the clear sea of Shonan, the island of Enoshima floating under the white clouds in the distance, the red-roofed houses lined up on the side of the coastal road, and in the background of the waves hitting the coast, the electricity of the river passed under my feet, which was the ideal summer look in my heart.
Electricity through the river of the people's homes
The most famous of the Enoshima stations along the Enoden is Enoshima Station, where there are shrines that are rumored to be very inspiring to make wishes and lighthouses that overlook the whole picture of Kamakura, which is a popular dating place among the younger generation - I once climbed the lighthouse on a rainy and typhoon day and found that there were young boys and girls who were not moved by the wind and rain, which made me understand why there was a friend who often traveled alone and never went to the lighthouse every time he arrived at Enoshima.
Stills of "She in the Sun" Infographic
Jun Matsumoto and Shuri Ueno starred in a movie called "She in the Sun". The original book was once named the first place in the "Love Novel That Japanese Women Most Want Men to Read", and it tells the love story of a cat on Enoshima Island who meets a human after transforming into a woman. Naturally, they were going on a date on Enoshima: visiting the Edo Shrine EbezOmiya, ringing the Dragon Love Bell on the Lovers' Hill, and finally going to the aquarium on Enoshima – the aquarium with the highest number of appearances in Japanese romance films, other than the Shinenoshima Aquarium, which can even sum up a set of "aquarium dating guides".
"Inverted Two" tells you that middle-aged people do not have to buy tickets to enter the museum, sitting on the doorstep to talk about life is very beautiful; "She in the Sun" tells you that standing shoulder to shoulder with the people you like in front of the big sink is the most heartwarming love memory of your youth; "There are people you like" tells you that what is more romantic than standing in front of the big sink is to break into the aquarium at night, and after being found by the security guards, they run away hand in hand; a few years ago, there was also a moon nine called "Meteor", and the male protagonist played by Takeno Uchiho was the staff of this aquarium. It has fascinated many Japanese drama viewers with the magical creature of jellyfish. The male protagonist said: Don't make a wish to a shooting star, make a wish to a jellyfish, it is more magical.
A dream at the Niiganoshima Aquarium
Aquariums featuring jellyfish and aquariums featuring sharks have two worldviews. After visiting the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, which is famous for its huge tanks, I realized that the aquarium of Enoshima is the best, it makes the not uncommon fish also shine, and every summer there are various themed activities, such as staying overnight in the aquarium, or using the light show to feel the sunrise and moonset on the seabed - there is a summer light show called "Then, you become a fish", in the ebb and flow of the ocean world, it makes me really feel: aquarium is a dream of human beings, and hundreds of millions of fish are the protagonists of this dream.
In fact, before Japanese drama fans flocked to it, there was an anime that made Kamakura a holy place. The scene at the beginning of the anime takes place at the first step in front of Kamakura High School Station (crossing, the intersection of railway and highway), and its name is known to everyone: "Slam Dunk Master".
In "Slam Dunk Master", kamakura High School has become a sacred place in people's hearts
It is not an exaggeration to say that Kamakura High School Station is the most beautiful station along the Etonden Line, in front of you is the sea that is rushing in front of you, a Saka road starts from the sea, leading to the top of Kamakura High School - that school may not be the prototype of Shonbei High School in the anime, but it must be a metaphor for youth: once I approached, it was during the summer special training, the baseball teenagers running all over the field, "bang" made a crisp sound of hitting the ball; another time, only sitting at the station, in front of a group of middle school students who had just left class, noisy and noisy, Suddenly, a tanned girl waved her hand vigorously and shouted at the teenager who was training in long-distance running on the beach: "Jian jun, come on!" "You will also be caught off guard by the years when the fireworks in your heart have not yet been extinguished, and you have bravely waved your hands."
Children of Kamakura
In Kamakura, youth belongs to any age. After filming "Inverted Ii", the 51-year-old Takaichi Nakai became a tourism ambassador for Kamakura City. He said in an interview: "The TV series is more than halfway through the air, and the people in front of the Kek Lok Si Station are very different from the desertion when the first episode was filmed. ”
In kek Lok Si Station, you can see the poster of "Inverted II" and the signature of the creator Infographic
Under careful questioning, it turned out that everyone had come to visit after watching the play. Nowadays, there are some works on TV for young people in their 20s, and we want to convey the youth of people who belong to 40 and 50 years old. People of this age will love Kamakura, won't they? ”
Why did they all choose to fall in love in Kamakura? Because Kamakura is eternal youth.
Plunging into the Mountains and Seas, by Cusso, CITIC Publishing Group, CITIC Spring Tide, July 2020
(This article is excerpted from "Plunging into the Mountains and Seas", and the text has been deleted.) ）
Editor-in-charge: Zhu Zhe
Proofreader: Liu Wei
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