Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture is located in the western border of Yunnan. The famous Nu River Grand Canyon, with a total length of about 300 kilometers. The Gaoligong Mountain, which stretches for thousands of miles, is like a dragon with its head held high, lying on the west side of the mighty Nu River. Every winter, the peaks of the mountains are covered with snow, and the beasts and birds of prey are insurmountable. The treacherous natural environment cannot stop the determination of the brave and industrious people of all ethnic groups in the Nu River to go out of the mountains. Historically, out of the need to exchange products and exchange with each other, the people of all ethnic groups on the Nu River have waded through dangers, climbed cliffs and streams, cut through thorns and thorns, and opened up one passage after another from the Nu River to neighboring Myanmar. The Yaping Yidao is one of them, and it is also the way home from the Savage Mountain by the Chinese Expeditionary Force. However, due to its location on the border and the danger of high mountains and the closure of mountains in winter, many Nujiang people have little heard of this secret place.
Yaping, Lisu, meaning cliff, from The county seat of Fugong to the north across the Nu River to the west bank, the bridge head erected "Secret Yaping" sign, there is a border checkpoint on the hillside. "Eighteen Miles" is Yaping, which is the mileage to the China-Myanmar border, but the starting and ending points are very vague, and the mileage cannot be taken seriously. The buggy began a swing dance, and the driver master jokingly called us a "massage". The car drove around the mountain for more than 3 hours and then arrived at Yaping. Under the blue sky are majestic peaks and ridges, and the open land is surrounded by towering trees. The friend pointed us to the mountain peaks in the distance, and the pyramid was pierced straight into the sky. This pillar with a diameter of more than 30 meters and a stone pillar height of 100 meters is proud of the Nu River Grand Canyon and is the most magical natural landscape in Yaping: "Man Mountain" or "Sun Mountain". As the birthplace of the Lisu people, "Man Mountain" and another natural landscape "Stone Moon" are one yang and one yin, echoing each other, the sun and the moon are the same, and are regarded as the "root of Lisu" and the sacred totem in the hearts of local Lisu compatriots.
The warm and humid air flow of the Indian Ocean up the Shunnu River Gorge has created a mountain rainforest on both sides of the river, with moss growing on the thick trunks, parasitic plants growing between the branches and branches, and the autumn colors are colorful. Waterfalls of all sizes constantly break through the simple roads, splashing water droplets into water mist, and bending rainbows in the sun. Although there are only "eighteen miles", it is better to see such a forest than nothing. The altitude is getting higher and higher, the trees are gradually rarer, and the bare rocky area on the mountain is far away, and the ridge is the national border. Yaping is a place where herdsmen seasonally circle cattle and sheep, and in recent years, they have opened inns and the business is acceptable. Burmese border residents walk all day to Yaping to buy daily necessities, which is nearly two or three days away from the country's township markets. Good neighborliness, the border is stable, and the houses of the original border guard station on the mountain have been submerged in the wild grass. The winding road is zigzag all the way to the boundary monument on the China-Myanmar border, and we get off the car to climb the mountain, heading toward Myanmar.
Standing on the No. 31 boundary plate between China and Myanmar, the rolling mountain at the end is Savage Mountain. Located at the junction of China and Myanmar and India, Savage Mountain is the northernmost part of Myanmar, and further north is the snow-capped Himalayas, surrounded by towering Hengduan Mountains to the east and west. Savage mountains overlap, forests are like seas, swamps stretch in the woods, jackals and beasts are rampant, and miasma malaria is spreading, which is an extremely dangerous place. In March 1942, the Chinese Expeditionary Force entered Burma for the first time. Due to the improper command of the Allied forces and the unfavorable combat of the British army, from the end of April to the beginning of May, the expeditionary force's rear road Lashio and the important city of Mandalay in the Burmese battlefield were occupied by the Japanese army, and the Chinese and British troops had to withdraw to China and India. Originally, Chiang Kai-shek ordered Du Yuming to occupy Myitkyina before the Japanese army and return to China by road. However, the Japanese army took the road, the expeditionary force took the mountain road, in any case, it was too late. When Chiang Kai-shek learned of this, he telegraphed Du Yuming to avoid fighting the Japanese army as much as possible and to take a detour back to China from Savage Mountain north of Myitkyina. Of the 100,000 troops of the Chinese Expeditionary Force that entered Burma to participate in the war, about 10,000 Chinese soldiers died for the battle, but 50,000 died in Savage Mountain, writing the most tragic scene in the world's military history. Standing on the Border of China and Myanmar returning from the expeditionary force, looking up at the magnificent mountains and rivers of the motherland, I burst into tears.
The Yaping Yidao road starts from Yaping Village in Fugong County, passes through Chamadi Village, Silajia Village, and Galadi Village, and goes up the Yaping River, passes through Mabi Muku and Luhe Jil, crosses the Kachisara Pass of Gaoligong Mountain and enters the Village of Chirady in Myanmar; then travels westward through Dimilo, Di Guode, Weyong, Zila Climb, Mud Horse Xidi, Liyingqi, Kubud, Niwanggu, and Lemen to reach the grape market in northern Myanmar. According to Deng Fuyong, a local Lisu elderly man, the formation of The Yaping Yidao has a history of 20 generations. Based on the 25-year-old calculation of a generation, it has a history of about 500 years. Most of the many sections of the Yaping Yidao road are named in the Lisu language. For example, "Yaping" means Shi Yakou, "Mabi Dumb Ku" means low bamboo shed cave, "Lu he Jile" means landslide site, "Qiladi" means a small flat dam borrowed back, "DiMilo" means a wheel resting basket, "Chew Yong" means the youngest son, "Lemen" means the end of the basket, and "Four Fruits and Four Libraries" means Oak Tree Cave. It is not difficult to see from this that the Yaping Yidao was opened up by the ancestors of the Nu and Lisu ethnic groups through countless hardships and hardships.
In August 1942, more than 1,700 members of the Chinese Expeditionary Force were withdrawn from this ancient road. According to yu Shao, commander of the 96th Division, from August 2 to 4, after crossing the Gaoligong Mountain, the mountain was uninhabited for hundreds of miles, sleeping at night and night, and the mountain began to snow in September and October every year, several feet to ten feet deep, and the pedestrians disappeared, so it was said that the mountain was closed, and by April and May of the following year, the snow began to melt, and if we were to pass it later than January. Then we crossed the Nu River from the zipline erected by the natives to Fugong County in Yunnan Province..." At that time, the Fugong people of ten thousand people were maintained on the extreme poverty line of slash-and-burn cultivation and lack of food and clothing, and when the expeditionary army passed through the territory of Fugong, it was a famine season of green and yellow, but the Fugong people preferred to swallow chaff and swallow vegetables themselves, and also to provide grain and meat dishes for the returned troops. More than 1,700 soldiers were safely transported from the Nu River to Jiangdong one by one.
I stopped to talk to the owner in a Lisu family surnamed Hua, and the neighbor called the owner Ah Kai (Lisu old third meaning), A Kai moved here in 2001 from Zilijia Township in Fugong County, because it is located in the border area between China and Myanmar, where trade is frequent, and people who rely on the food and accommodation money left by people who rest here on weekdays to maintain their basic life. The simple Ah Kai smiled and said to me: Generally do not accept money from guests, they are hard to leave, we Lisu people, guests come, have a meal, at night high road danger, rest, should not collect money! Ah Kai now raises pigs and chickens, he said, the country has been helping us, we also have to support ourselves ... ... I weighed in my heart the meaning of the two words Lisu, and I think I understood it at this moment, Lisu is a simple, hospitable, industrious, and brave people. I salute the Lisu people like Ah Kai, who guarded the tranquility and peace on the southwest border of the motherland with a hard life, and you exchanged the bravery and hard work of generations for a rich life, and I feel at this moment what is ordinary and great, and these ordinary Lisu people are great people.
The beauty of Apping, the beauty of the ancient post road from Yaping Village to myanmar's Lijiang Jiming is about 30 kilometers long, and it is still the main trade route between China and Myanmar. Along the way, natural landscapes such as mountains, valleys, villages, fields, streams, waterfalls, primeval forests, and alpine lakes emerge in an endless stream. In the spring of Yaping, the ice and snow melt, everything recovers, azaleas bloom everywhere, birds and flowers everywhere; in summer, the streams are babbling, cool and warm, always smoke and rain, carved cloud mountain fog cover; autumn is the most beautiful season in Yaping, the forest is dyed, the ink is heavy, the sky is high and cloudy, and the beauty is breathtaking; in winter, the snow seals the mountains, the heavens and the earth are colorful, and the mountains are silent. For the first time, I also truly saw the true face of Yaping's "autumn is like oil painting, winter ink, thick makeup is always appropriate". I believe that it will not be long before this beautiful "secret place" will finally lift the veil of mystery and show the unpolished natural beauty in front of the world.
【Author】 Wang Cheng, Chief Planner of China's 56 Nationalities and Eat All 56 Nationalities, Special Advisor in the Field of Humanities of the China Explorers Club. Media contributor, Leto Travel Network Super Inspiration Traveler. Workers, peasants, merchants, and soldiers seem to be in full possession, can go from nine to five, and there are also poems and far away. May we always be young and full of tears as we walk. This article is owned by the author, please sign the reprint, please do not use it for commercial purposes without permission. Please contact the author for any other needs. (WeChat: 18612630430)