Finnish Pomeranias fur dog
The Finnish Pomerania Fur dog is the Finnish Fox Dog, with a neat head that resembles a fox.
Chinese Finnish Pomerania hairy dog
His foreign name is Finnish Spitz
Alias Finnish Fox Dog, Finnish Fox Dog
Born in Finland
Historical origin "Suomenpystykorva", a Finnish chicken-headed-eared dog, earlier called the Finnish birdcatcher, or Finnish sharp-billed dog, is now called the Finnish fox dog, it is the national dog of Finland. The history of fox dogs dates back thousands of years, when the Finn Ugol people migrated to central Russia, and because they were multi-ethnic and moved to different regions, they raised dogs for need and developed into dogs of different pedigrees. One tribe moved to the far north, where about 60,000 lakes were separated from each other. [1] The Finnish Fox Dog appeared as a thoroughbred dog and became a valuable asset for hunters. Centuries later, more advanced methods of transport brought different nationalities and their dogs to settle here, and the original Finnish fox dog began to cross with other breeds of dogs, which by 1880 were almost gone. At that time, two hunters from Helsinki discovered purebred native dogs in the northern forest and learned of their many advantages, so they acted as excellent representatives and tried to save the breed. Hugo Russ, one of the many breeders, was directly involved in the breeding and worked for 30 years, after which he quit the work. Another pioneer, Hugo Sandberg, launched a conservation campaign in 1890, but he himself never bred the Finnish fox dog himself, and in 1891, the first Helsinki Dog Show was held, with Mr. Sandberg as the judge, and on that historic day, 5 Finnish fox dogs were awarded ribbons. With the advent of the dog show, the breed was in dire need of a series of standards, and thanks to mr. Sandberg's successful push, the Finnish Kennel Club recognized the breed in 1892 and based on his observations, and in 1897, when the details of the standard were revised, the Finnish fox dog became the official name of the breed. The Finnish fox dog first entered England in 1927 and was taken to Scandinavia by Mr. Edward Chichester along the hunting trail. Breeding of the Finnish fox dog in the United States began in the mid-1960s, thanks to Henry Davidson of Minnesota and Alex Hassel of Connelluc. The Finnish Fox Dog Club of America was founded in 1975 by Richard and Bate Isakov and Margaret Kocherler, and the American standards for the breed were developed by Ms. Horace and Ms. Isakov in 1976 based on the standards of the countries of their origin. In September 1983, the breed was allowed to join the mixed breed category, and on 1 August 1987 the board of directors of AKC registered the Finnish Fox Dog as a goodbred dog, which remained a non-hound and obtained a display license from AKC on 1 January 1988. In addition to its home country, the Finnish Fox Dog is mainly used as a family dog, a loyal companion, especially loved by children. In Finland, however, it is still a working dog, as it was in the early days, and still served as an indicator dog. Through its different barking and instructions, it guides the hunter to determine the position of its prey, and when the hunter approaches, it can indicate the prey with its head and kiss. Deep in the forest, it can find thunderbirds (the kind of wild turkeys) that use sight, smell and hearing, and are always in touch with hunters with sound. It can search for prey from the bushes until it flies up the branches, so the dog makes a sound, starts thin, and gradually becomes stronger, warning the owner to shoot the prey down. As it approaches its prey, it constantly wags its tail, moves back and forth, barking to distract the bird. In Finland, the breed's hunting ability is highly praised, so when it shows value in the field, it will certainly win the championship in the competition, especially its barking ability, which is chosen as the king of barking every year.
The standard size is about 17.5 to 20 inches of shoulder height for males and 15.5 to 18 inches for females. Proportional square: the distance from the sternum to the buttocks is equal to the distance from the horse's shoulder boom to the ground. But the coat sometimes affects the appearance of the square. Physique and bone mass are coordinated with the overall proportions. The head is neatly contoured, like a fox. The distance from the posterior occipital bone to the tip of the nose is longer, in a ratio of about 7:4 compared to the width at the widest part of the head. Females are more delicate and have less coat around their necks than males, but in the same proportions. A muscular or rough head, or a head that is too long or too narrow, with a pointed tone, is a defect. The expression is fox-like and active. The eyes are almond-shaped, with black circles. The positions are oblique and at a moderate distance from each other, neither too far nor too close. The outer corner of the eye is slanted upwards. Dark in color with keen and alert eyes. Any case of divergence, watery eyes, tearful eyes, round or light-colored eyes are defective. Ear position is high. When alert, it stands upwards, with the ear hole forward, and the tip of the ear is just above the outer corner of the eye. Small and erect, with sharp ears and very flexible. The ear position is too high, too low, and there are too long or too many hairs in the ear. The head is flat between the ears and has a minimal round arch in front of the ears. The forehead is slightly rounded. The length ratio of the head to the muzzle is about 4:3. The stop is obvious. The tone of the mouth, viewed from the front, above and from the sides, appears narrow; the width and depth are equal, blending into the head. The tip is slightly thinner and the angles are similar in all aspects. The nose mirror is black. Any divergence is a flaw. 80% of the area around the nose mirror comes from around the muzzle. The lips were black; thin and tight. Bites and scissors bite and. Crooked mouth is a serious defect. Back of the neck: Properly positioned and muscular. Neat and tidy, no excessive skin under the tone. Males have a slightly shorter neck due to their thick neck rings. The dorsal line runs horizontally from the shoulder to the hips. The body is muscular and squarely proportioned. The chest is deep and extends to the elbows. The depth of the chest is about 4:9 compared to the distance from the horse's shoulder boom to the ground. The ribs are well supported. The tail is positioned below the level of the dorsal line, forming a separate ring that rests on the waist, with the tip of the tail pointing to the thighs. The tail has feathered ornaments that curve beautifully from the base of the tail forward, then downwards and backwards to the middle of the thighs. If the tail is straightened, the tailbone can extend to the flying joint. The position of the tail is too high or too low, the tail is overly curled, or the short tail is a defect. The scapula, which slopes backwards, is at a 30-degree angle to the vertical line. The forelimbs, viewed from the front, are at a moderate distance from each other, parallel to each other, straight, and the elbows are close to the body, neither bending inward nor turning outward. The bones are strong, but not excessively heavy, in harmony with the overall proportions. Slender bones, affecting endurance, heavy bones, making the movements appear bulky, are all defects. The bone is viewed from the side and slightly tilted. Weak gum bones are defects. The claws are rounded, compact, with rounded toes arched, tight bundles or cups. The middle two toes are slightly longer than the outer toes. The foot pads are deep and covered with thick skin. Such claws, in contrast to the ovate shape, are completely rounded. The angle of the posterior torso is commensurate with the anterior torso. The thighs are muscular. Wolf claw excision. The claws are the same as the forelimbs. The coat is a double layer of hair, consisting of a short, soft, dense undercoat and a long, straight, and thick outer layer of fur (the length of the body hair is about 1 to 2 inches). The hairs on the head and legs are short and tight; the longest and thickest hairs are behind the tail and thighs. The outer layer of hair on the neck and back is long and hard, and the male's hair on the shoulder blades is also very rich, forming the appearance of a neck ring. Males have more hair than females. Except for the foot claws, the other parts of the coat are not allowed to be trimmed. Beards should also not be trimmed. Any trimming of the coat is a serious defect. Filamentous, wavy, too long or too short coat hairs are defective. Shades of golden red in color, from light honey to dark russet are allowed. There is no preference for color, as long as it is bright and neat within the allowable range. If the color of the underfoot is light, the effect of this shadow is that the hair looks like it is glowing. White markings on the tip of the toe, no larger than 1/4 of the size, or white bands (ideally no wider than 0:5 inches) are allowed on the front chest. Sparse black hairs along the lip line, separate black hairs on the back and tail are allowed. Puppies may have a lot of black hair, which gradually decreases with age, and black persists on the tail for a longer period of time. Dirty or unclear colors, except for the case described earlier, the appearance of white markings on the body are defects. Gait Finnish Pomeranias fur dog's footsteps are brisk and lively, the pace appears to be vigorous, the trot appears lively and elegant, and as the speed increases, it tends to a single trajectory. When hunting, it is also possible to gallop. Its front and back torso angle allows it to quickly enter the working gait. The essence of the correct gait is staying power and agility. Temperament lively and friendly, active and enthusiastic, loyal; brave, but cautious. Shyness or any unprovoked tendency to attack is a flaw.
Life habits Finnish Hounds are friendly, quiet and not aggressive. Not recommended to be kept in an apartment, requiring wild activities and some space, it is a dexterous and energetic hound. Unlike the Norwegian Hound, the Finnish Hound is also a sniffing hound. Although they lead hunters to hide from red sandpipers and other birds that can be hunted in dense forests, they are not foraging hounds. Large, docile dogs are very lively and easy to get along with children. When it's Scandinavian summer, dogs are happy to sleep outdoors. Although dense coats are not effective against the natural environment, dogs can survive. Because of their quiet personality, they can be relatively good domestic dogs. When this breed of male dog meets other male dogs, it is easy to get excited. Agile and independent, energetic, docile and calm, requires rigorous training from an early age.
The size of the common sense nest should be considered in the size of the dog after adulthood. Generally lay some towels or thin cotton pads, in the puppy fecal urination irregular, unspecified, you can pad some newspapers, in order to facilitate the replacement. Down jackets are generally not very good, because puppies will tear open, and if ingested, it is easy to cause digestive problems. If there is a small wooden box, the kennel will be stronger and more beautiful. Pet shops or pet hospitals sell finished kennels of all sizes and materials, from metal to hard plastic to wooden. Beautifully designed, comfortable and beautiful, easy to clean, but the price should be considered. In addition, special food and water trays should be prepared for puppies, and try not to use glass or porcelain products, because they are easy to break. It is also best not to use iron, because it is easy to rust. Stainless steel is generally used. Plastic or aluminum is fine, but should be considered in size, shade and shape should be suitable for your puppy, while being easy to disinfect. Of course, this is extremely rare, it has a strong desire to dominate and can even be aggressive, so it is not an ideal family pet dog. The puppies that score the most points in each center are also very dominant, but can be transformed from proper training into excellent companions and excellent working dogs. The puppy with the most three points, with a lively and outgoing personality, is definitely an excellent dog that obeys the training, and is the most suitable for people who have just started to raise a dog, but the puppy with the most four points is very willing to get along with people, especially with children, and is the best choice for family pet dogs. The puppies with the most five points, more sensitive and lack self-confidence, are a good companion for older couples who have little requirements, prefer a quiet life or have a dog purely as a companion. It is enough to wash about seven to ten days in the summer and about two weeks in the winter. Bathing your dog according to how dirty it is should be the most reasonable bath time. Sick dogs and puppies (before 2 months) should not be bathed. Because sick dogs and puppies have poor physical function and weak disease resistance, bathing at this time will not only aggravate the disease, but also easily cause colds. If the sick dog or puppy is dirty with hair, you can gently comb it with a comb several times or wipe it clean with a towel. Even for healthy dogs, the bathing time should be selected from noon to early evening, and the dog's coat should be completely cool and dry. But dogs that swim on the beach or come back from a shower should definitely take a bath.
Beauty knowledge No matter which season, regular brushing can not only remove hair loss and nodules in time, so that the appearance can be improved, but also clean the skin and hair, remove their abnormality. Tool with a metal brush with unentailed sideburns curved. Brush from the surface of the skin from the back to the front, and then from front to back. Precautions: 1. Behind the ears, the inner side of the hind legs hide dirt and dirt often have nodules, hair balls; 2. Finnish dogs in spring and autumn throat hair, need special care; 3. Warm and humid season, brushing is particularly important, be careful of dogs suffering from skin diseases or infection with parasites; 4. Frequent brushing can get rid of the trouble of frequent bathing, so it is necessary to ensure regular grooming. When bathing your dog, be sure to rinse the soap and other washing substances on the fur, otherwise it is easy to cause skin inflammation and infection. If the toenails are still long after rubbing such as exercise and exercise, they need to be trimmed. Of course, it's best to flip through some books or consult a professional about how to trim properly before you do it.
Domestication methods use the appetite reflex before feeding the dog or when the dog is hungry, the trainer holds up the food bowl or holds the food, stands outside the kennel door to lure the dog, the dog is very excited because of the urgency to obtain food. At this time, give orders and gestures, and at the same time use food to tease the dog in front of the dog, the dog can make a sound dog bark. In the early days, as long as the dog has a barking sign, the dog should be rewarded immediately for eating food. Eat less, make the dog bark, bark and give some to eat, and so on five or six times in a row. This is more effective for dogs with predominant food response. Later training can gradually reduce food lures until it is completely eliminated, and the training location should be changed frequently, so that the dog can bark completely according to passwords and gestures. Using defensive reflexes When a dog finds a living person or other dog barking in the house, the trainer can issue orders and gestures in time to direct the dog to bark and reward it. You can also lead the dog to your side, let the assistant trainer slowly approach the dog from a distance and tease the dog, when the dog's attention or alert performance is aroused, the trainer points to the trainer with his right hand and issues a "bark" password to stimulate the dog's excitement. When the dog barks or barks, it should be rewarded immediately with a "good" password and a stroke, and the assistant trainer stops teasing or hiding by taking advantage of the opportunity of the trainer to reward the dog. Then continue to tease the dog to bark. In this way, after several trainings, basic conditioned reflexes can be formed, and the tease of the assistant trainer can be gradually reduced and eliminated in the future, and only the barking of the dog can be caused by passwords and gestures. This method is more effective for dogs with an active defensive response. But it should not be used too much, so as not to make the dog develop a bad connection with people barking. Using attachment to take the dog to a strange and quiet place, tied to a solid object, the trainer first tries to arouse the dog's excitement, and then immediately leaves the dog to a certain distance, shouting the dog's name as he walks. Dogs bark in a hurry when they see the trainer walk away and hear its name called. At this time, the trainer should immediately use passwords and gestures to direct the dog to bark, and after a few barks, run to the dog and give a caress and food reward. So the frontier trains two or three times, and then lets the dogs swim away. In future training, the distance to leave can be gradually shortened until the dog can bark without leaving. Using free reflexes, dogs show a desire to leave the kennel when the dog is forbidden for a long time and cannot move freely. Therefore, this should be used to direct the barking of the dog before releasing the dog from the house, using the barking password and gestures. If the dog barks out, the dog is released from the kennel to reward the dog. The most convenient and quick way to use the hunting reflex for dogs that are excited to latch is to use the desire to latch. After using an object to guide the dog, use the dog bark password or gesture to direct the dog bark. If the dog can bark, the dog is rewarded with an item; if the dog is excited and does not bark, the dog should be suddenly tied to a fixed object at the same time as the dog is adjusted, leaving the dog to continue to adjust and direct the dog to bark, if the dog can bark, it should immediately return to the dog to reward the dog.