Like pig ears, pig tails are also delicious "live meat" that grows on the most cutting edges of pigs, also known as "skin skin", "not tired", "tail root", etc., which are composed of cortex and multi-bone joints, and are rich in glutinous and tough gum that almost everyone likes.
One evening in the summer of 1966, my mother took me to the Workers' and Peasants' Soldiers' Hotel not far from home, and for two dimes and five cents I bought a brine pig's tail for me to nibble on. In my memory, it was the first smell of brine meat in my life, and that wonderful smell still exists in the corners of my mouth.
At the beginning, the tail of the braised pig tends to be not very clean, and a small bite is chewed, and the golden sticky skin is eaten, and the bones spit out will carry some tendons. When chewing is addictive, every day to pull the mother to buy a brine pig's tail, the experience of nibbling is also getting richer, the left hand holds the tail tip of the right hand, the upper and lower front teeth from right to left play the harmonica while nibbling and chewing, and finally there is a complete dinosaur fossil-like tailbone.
The oily pig's tail in 1966 was far from the wine, and only the wisps of brine and the mother's love quietly drifted into the 1980s and became the eternal appetizer of mangy poets. At that time, when wandering poets from other places came to the door, we would usually go to the street brine stalls to cut some brine pork head meat and the like to entertain, if these poets could be called "blood brothers" at the same time, then we would go to get some more advanced brine pig tail or brine duck than pig head meat to drink. The poet Li Yawei said that this is called a spectator killing a chicken and a pig to take a tail.
In the summer of 1986, I went from my hometown of Youyang to Chongqing to meet the poet Liu Taiheng, whom I had never met before, when the tycoon's main job was still a doctor in the burn department of the three military doctors, and his side job was to write poems and fan boxes (as the saying goes, make a girlfriend). We met in his dorm room, and without saying a word, he bent down and came out from under the bed, grabbed an empty bottle, invited me out with him to get loose liquor, and bought four brine pig tails and a pig's ear. At that time, I thought that the tycoon regarded me as a "blood brother". We went back to the dormitory and drank, one of them nibbled on a long and flexible pig's tail, and while talking about poetry, he talked about the military sister of his unit, so unhappy!
In historical Chinese recipes, it is difficult to find dishes with pig's tail into the dish. I found a "roasted dry toon" in the "Tuning Ding Collection" compiled by Tong Yuezhuan of the Qing Dynasty: take the pig's tail and add sweet sauce, wine, pepper, and salt to burn. This is similar to our modern brine pig's tail. In the "Chinese Recipes Sichuan" published by the China Finance and Economics Publishing House in 1981, he found a nearly lost "raw roasted tendon tail tongue": put the pig tongue into boiling water for 3 minutes, scrape off the coarse skin, and cut it into strips that are one inch and five minutes long and four minutes wide. The tail is scraped clean and cut into one-inch and five-minute-long pieces. Wash the tendons, put them in a bowl, put them in a steamer basket until they are six ripe, remove them, and cut them into one-inch, five-minute-long pieces. Put the wok on high heat, stir-fry the lard, ginger (pat pine), green onion to make the aroma, add pork tongue, tail stir-fry for about 2 minutes, then add broth, rice wine, rock sugar sugar, fine salt, hoof tendons and boil, skim off the foam, pour into the casserole, move to a low heat and simmer for 2 hours until soft, pick out the ginger and shallots without use. Wash the fresh vegetable hearts, blanch them in boiling water and place on the bottom of the plate. Move the casserole dish over medium heat, add the broth, drizzle with sesame oil and pour over the fresh cabbage hearts on the plate. As you can imagine, this dish is golden in color, salty and fragrant, soft and delicious. I think that if you add some ingredients such as sea cucumber and carrot to this dish, it can be developed into a more nutritious and rich taste.
In the 1990s, poets Wan Xia, Li Yawei, Shi Guanghua and other poets often went to The Huaxing Omelette Noodles on Yulin North Road in Chengdu to spend the night, in addition to one bowl of omelette noodles for one person, they would often order two plates of brine pig's tail to drink underneath. After I went to Beijing in 2005, I went around the streets looking for brine pig tails without any results. So whenever I raise a glass in Beijing, I always think of the salted pig's tail. Returning to Chengdu in March this year, I got off the plane and went directly from the airport to Huaxing omelette noodles on Yulin North Road, asked Xiaomei to ask for a bowl of noodles and a plate of brine pig's tail, and then ordered two or two bubble wines. What's the law, think of this mouthful! At noon on the day I returned to Beijing, I went to Huaxing omelette noodles again, packed 5 catties (50 yuan / kg, the dog day is so expensive) just out of the brine pot of pig tails, in the evening at the Wangjing Huangke family banquet in Beijing, a large group of "bandits" three times "wine" in addition to two meals were eliminated.
There is also an interesting thing related to pig's tail that is worth mentioning, and the food master Tang Lusun mentioned that his friend Hu Guohua put a mini ham into a glass brocade box to send him. He said that Hu Guohua once touched a pig whose tail was particularly fat, so he cut it off, pickled it with other hams, pickled them out of the tank, trimmed and cut them off, peeled off the tip of the pig's claw and installed it on the tip of the pig's tail, and the mini ham was completed, which was really seamless. I wanted to cook this little ham and eat it, and its taste must be seamless!
【Happiness Recipe】
Raw roasted tendon tail tongue
1． Place the pork tongue in boiling water for 3 minutes, scrape off the coarse skin and cut into strips that are one and a half inches long and four minutes wide. The tail is scraped clean and cut into one-inch and five-minute-long pieces. Wash the tendons, put them in a bowl, put them in a steamer basket until they are six ripe, remove them, and cut them into one-inch, five-minute-long pieces.
2． Put the wok on high heat, fry the lard, ginger (pat loose), green onion to make the aroma, add pork tongue, tail and fry for about 2 minutes, then add broth, rice wine, rock sugar, sugar color, fine salt, hoof tendons and boil, skim off the foam, pour into the casserole, move to a low heat and simmer for 2 hours until soft, pick out the ginger and shallots without use.
3． Wash the fresh vegetable hearts, blanch them in boiling water and place on the bottom of the plate. Move the casserole dish over medium heat, add the broth, drizzle with sesame oil and pour over the fresh cabbage hearts on the plate.
<h1></h1>