There is a saying that the old Tianqiao sells art on the ground: just say that you don't practice the false style, just practice not to say the stupid style, and then say that you practice the real style. In a word, you have to shout something to do, and you have to have some guys on your hands.
More than a hundred years ago, selling sour plum soup was like this. Pushing a cart, walking the streets, holding two small copper bowls in his hand, called "ice cups" in the jargon, jingles and knocks, "Hey! Sour plum soup, osmanthus flavor, water from Yuquan Mountain, ice from Deshengmen, drink to the mouth of the cold fluttering, give more and more, soup is delicious!" 」
Teacher Yu Qian described this movement, "I feel cool when I hear it."
But what is the ice of Deshengmen?
In the old-fashioned years, the chilled sour plum soup in Beijing used natural ice left over from the moat and Shichahai in winter. Desheng Gate is on the moat, the ice cellar is the most, two days ago I rode a bicycle to that side of the blind, and also found an ice cellar mouth alley.
No way, the previous people did not have a refrigerator, in the summer to freeze something, you can only use natural ice, which is called "winter storage and summer use", as early as more than 3,000 years ago in the Shang Zhou period, there was already this method of hiding ice.
Just one drawback, what? Sanitary conditions are not good and clean.
You think, what is the moat and The Shichahai? Mr. Liang Shiqiu said, "You can see turf and wood chips in the ice cubes, and the mud and sand are not exempt." Selling sour plum soup are small vendors, the most unpacyntic road number, put the ice cube directly into the soup, cool is cool, is the old diarrhea, waste paper.
What to do? Go to the letter far away.
As we all know, this sour plum soup, especially the city of Beijing, is authentic. In the city of Beijing, especially Xinyuan Zhai is authentic.
Others like the Qiu family of the tianqiao, the Xidan Archway Road Meet Zhai, the Dong'an Mending Street meet the Edge Zhai, and the Kowloon Zhai outside the front door, which are all descendants.
Xinyuan Zhai, opened in the fifth year of the Qianlong Dynasty, the owner's surname is Xiao. Rumor has it that he turned out to be a peddler, setting up a stall on the fence outside the front door. One day, one of his relatives who was a eunuch in the palace passed on to him a secret recipe for the palace, which could be made into osmanthus sour plum soup according to the formula. Boss Xiao did just that, and was well received by the people, and was known as "Qing Palace Treasure" and "Imperial Wumei Soup".
Later, Boss Xiao laid down two shops in the East Liuli Factory, before the shop and the back factory, and started a serious business of selling sour plum soup, named "Xinyuan Zhaiji".
At first glance, it sounds very awkward, "Jai" is "Jai", how about adding a "remember"? It doesn't make sense.
Hey, what Boss Xiao wants is this nonsense.
Where is Shinto Saikai? Opened in a glass factory. Where is the Glass Factory? Xu Lingxiao explained in "Hundred Words of the Old Capital": "In the past, the elders of the Beijing Dynasty, noble guests and elegant streams, had spare time, often had to go to the Liuli Factory to visit the bookstore, taste antiques, examine the version, and spend the long day."
See? Liulichang is the most famous cultural street in Beijing. Until now, when you go there to hang out, the shops on the street are selling some ancient and modern books, literary play calligraphy and paintings, and what is written on the plaque, and what kind of fasting, what hall, and what cabinet.
Boss Xiao thought, if it is called "Xinyuan Zhai" and placed in this street, it is not conspicuous! In business, how can you pull some business? So he thought of a crooked trick and added a word, called "Xinyuan Zhai Ji" (信遠斋記).
Wandering around the Liulichang area are all readers who like to cut words, sneak here, look up, "Xinyuan Zhaiji", hiss - this signboard, it doesn't make sense! No, I have to wrestle with my boss.
Saying that, I went in, followed by one after another, five and four, looking for more and more stubble, and the traffic in the store also went up. Lu Xun, Lao She, Qi Baishi, Zhang Daqian, and Mei Lanfang were all regular visitors to Xinyuanzhai.
Although this storefront is not large, it is better than clean and simple, the glass doors and windows facing the street are spotlessly clean, and a crescent moon blade is inserted. Why insert a crescent? It means that this pot of sour plum soup was boiled last night.
As soon as the patron entered the door, he was confronted by an old-fashioned ice bucket with green paint, nailed with layers of iron, and full of smashed natural ice. Sour plum soup is served in a large porcelain jar with blue flowers on a white background, the lid is tightened, and it is buried in the crushed ice of the ice bucket. When I woke up the next day, the sour plum soup was already cold and calm, and there was no direct contact with the ice cubes, which was clean and delicious.
After living in Taipei for decades, Liang Shiqiu still remembers The mouth of Xin Yuanzhai and says that "there is a lot of rock sugar, a thick plum juice, and a small amount of water, so the taste is strong and salty." It is cold and sweet, and contains pure mash in the mouth, and is reluctant to swallow."
Yes, the only feature of The sour plum soup of Xinyuan Zhai is that it is boiled thickly, boiled well in the jar, never mixed with ice water, and when it is drunk, it is mellow and rich, and the ice is extremely transparent.
The guy poured it in a small porcelain bowl, sprinkled a few osmanthus flowers, drank a bowl, poured a bowl, and finally collected money from the bowl. Although the tongue is cold and the teeth are cold, it is not unusual to drink ten bowls and eight bowls at once, not enough.
You think, three volt days, two or three o'clock in the afternoon, the big sun is roasting like hot oil in a pot, there is no shade on the top of the head, and the four necks are sweating. At this time, turn into the Letter Yuanzhai, open the bamboo curtain, a solid bowl of sour plum soup under the belly, cool air along the throat eyes all the way to the stomach, the whole body pores are cold and not so shrunk, the muscles are excited, the mouth "hissing" pumping, it is really cold, through the tongue and teeth, cool into the heart and spleen.
In the words of teacher Guo Degang, drinking sour plum soup here and shooting his father over there, it is not painful!
Edit: Six Aunts
Past Period Review:
Hello, you have a job waiting to be collected
Come claim some expired love for free
Vivienne Westwood, the godmother of punk: Let tradition go to hell
We care about Star Wars,
Also care about the dust that falls on your curtains,
Some things can be said in one sentence,
Some are eager to talk for three months.
Follow me and toast to our delicate souls.