In Taiyuan, the head of the "Six Taste Zhai" is very big, just like the old vinegar in Ninghua Province and the Fenjiu in Xinghua Village, which can be said to be known to everyone and everyone. However, the reputation of Liuwei Zhai is also limited to Taiyuan local, and it is far less loud than vinegar and wine outside, mainly because of the product. Liuwei Zhai is mainly based on the production of meat food processing, of which sauce elbow flower, pork head meat, sauce beef, etc. are the most popular among the public, because cooked meat products are limited by the short storage time, it is impossible to be the same day as the aged vinegar fen wine that is easy to preserve for a long time, which also limits its reputation.
People have the impression that the taste is nothing more than "sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty" five flavors, and the sixth taste in the name of the six flavors is actually a "fragrant"! Sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty are all tastes that can be tasted in the mouth, but this "incense" cannot be ingested, and can only be smelled through the sense of smell, which is quite suspected of being deviant! Perhaps it is this suspicion that has allowed Liuweizhai to be passed down for more than three hundred years and is now a national intangible cultural heritage.
In the past two years, the price of pork has risen in the six flavors of the house, which is naturally not exempt from vulgarity, the price increase is severe, and the meat products bought at a cost of one hundred and eighty yuan are just a small plate on the dinner table, and three or five people each have a bite, so let the Taiyuan people love and hate it, and they can't stop it. Whenever he talks about Liuwei Zhai food, he shakes his head, "Expensive, really expensive, really fucking can't afford to eat"!
The love for Liuwei Zhai is not only my generation, but also the older generation. Unfortunately, in that era of material scarcity and income was stretched, the meat products of Liuwei Zhai were not the delicacies that ordinary people could often taste, but only during the New Year's Festival, it was an indispensable delicacy at the banquet. Pick up a piece and put it in your mouth, the color and fragrance are good, as if the mouth is melted, but there is a chewing head, slowly entering the appetite along the esophagus, swimming in the stomach, the beautiful feeling is endlessly evocative. At the beginning, there was only one store at the intersection of Liu Lane and Zhonglou Street, and people flocked to it on holidays, crowding sangsang and queuing up. Fortunately, in these years, the Liuweizhai chain stores are all over the city, and there is no need to bother to queue up to buy.
On Saturday, more than a dozen college students drove to visit the newly built Liuweizhai base, and the base on the vast 500 acres of land was really a jump. Stepping into the base compound is like entering a garden, surrounded by lush trees, a green, promenade, small bridge in the view, green covered with a long milky white three-story building, about 400 meters long, dozens of cars with freezers lined up neatly in front of the building. According to a beautiful tour guide, these are vehicles that transport meat products every day, loaded and sent to various stores in the city at three o'clock in the morning every day, and by the way, the meat products that were not sold yesterday are pulled back, and the overnight meat products are not allowed to be sold again the next day to ensure the quality of meat products.
We climbed up the stairs and went directly to the second floor, and the large "Liuwei Long River" exhibition came into view, where in the form of pictures and texts, it showed the vicissitudes of the history and culture of Liuwei Zhai and the current development and changes, as well as the processing process of the main meat products, which made people have a clear view. According to records, the predecessor of Liuwei Zhai originated in Beijing, the first creation of the Qianlong three years of the Qing Dynasty, that is, in 1738, named "Tianfu", because of the good color and flavor soon became the royal meal, Cixi Lafayette had a special love for the sauce meat of the Tianfu, other dishes tasted two or three bites later, only the sauce meat was not addictive. For this reason, he specially ordered the Tianfu to issue a waist plate into the Forbidden City, which can be on call and not mistakenly feast. In 1938, Tianfu set up a semicolon in Taiyuan and changed its name to Liuwei Zhai. Later, as Japan's war of aggression against China and the civil war continued for many years, the Tianfu and the semicolons in various places collapsed one after another, leaving only the Taiyuan Liuwei Zhai family. Liuwei Zhai is not a family business, but a master with apprentices to inherit the production process, the quality is getting better and better, so it is not a waste of time to be able to win the national intangible cultural heritage. During the visit, I noticed a yellowed photo, and when I carefully browsed it, it was Pei Lisheng, the first mayor of the Taiyuan Municipal People's Government who had just been liberated, who issued a "business certificate" to Liuwei Zhai, and the payment was actually "July 28, 38 of the Republic of China". It is strange that a nascent regime of the Communist Party actually used the era name of the Nationalist government after the birth of the Xinhai Revolution in 1911. However, if you think about it carefully, it is not surprising that the use of the Common Era method was after the founding of the People's Republic of China on October 1, 1949, and the liberation of Taiyuan was on April 24, 1949, when millions of heroes crossed the river, and the whole country was not yet fully liberated, so naturally it was impossible to use the Common Era.
There is also a plaque placed in the glass window of the Liuwei Zhai plaque, the old mottled land, a closer look and a little familiar, through the introduction of the tour guide to know that this is the earliest placed in the Liuwei Zhai store plaque, the Cultural Revolution by the Red Guards in the wave of "big broken four old, big li four new", together with the newly installed neon lights were smashed off. I was in middle school on Shangma Street, and I had to pass by the Liuweizhai store several times a day in the morning and evening, although it was impossible to taste the taste of the meat products, but it was still okay to see the store full of eyes, so I still had a feeling for the changes at the door of the Liuweizhai store. The neon lights of the Liuweizhai store were just installed shortly before the outbreak of the Cultural Revolution, and every night after the evening self-study passing, you can see the light of the neon lights of the Liuwei zhai from afar, and the red and lustrous reflections around the area give people a warm feeling. At the turn of the spring and summer of 1966, the Cultural Revolution broke out, the school was in chaos, it was impossible to hold classes normally, school leaders and a large number of teachers were criticized all day long, all kinds of inexplicable big-character posters flew all over the head, and soon the students were from the school to the outside of the school. Today I heard that where it was smashed, tomorrow I heard that the government departments went, and the day after tomorrow I said that the students of xx school demolished the largest Catholic church in Taiyuan City, and the bishop and the believers fought together. One afternoon when I was at school, I suddenly heard that the neon lights and plaques in the Liuwei Zhai store had also been smashed, and that this "revolutionary action" was done by a classmate of our school. Sure enough, when I went home and passed by Liuwei Zhai, there was a mess in front of the door, and the neon glass shards were scattered everywhere on the ground, and some onlookers were still standing on the side of the road whispering. The Six Flavors Seal hanging prominently in the place of the person was also not seen, and it is estimated that someone took it. I didn't want to see the original object again after more than fifty years, and I really felt like I was in a trance!
When the exhibition room comes out, it enters the production workshop for a visit. The production workshops are all set up on the first floor, and the visitors are on the second floor, with a commanding view through the glass vitrines. Employees are busy on the production line wearing uniforms and hats and masks, cutting and shaving bones are all manual operations, without machines, and it is said that the taste of handicrafts and machine-made things is completely different. A few mouthfuls of cooked meat were steaming hot, and someone was flipping the contents of the pot from time to time. Mature meat products are stacked on rows of rack carts before being pushed into the warehouses inside. The tour guide told us that these finished products will be shipped to various marketing stores for sale at three o'clock in the morning.
Although in Liuwei Zhai is just a hurry to see the flowers, it is also more than three hours, quite a bit of a feeling of sleepy horses. However, at the end of the visit, each person bought a lot of meat products and other cooked food in large bags at the shopping shop set up by Liuwei Zhai, which was naturally brought back to share with relatives and friends, which was not worth the trip.
In recent years, Tianjin's dogs have ignored the buns, and Beijing Quanjude roast duck has been scolded, the key is to blindly pursue the pursuit of making money and high profits, regardless of the quality of food, resulting in the snubbed and brilliant now. For Liuwei Zhai, an old shop that can be passed down for more than three hundred years, it has gone through ups and downs, including social turmoil, changing dynasties, it is not an easy task, we hope that it will last for a long time, and continue to work hard, especially in this impetuous social environment, out of the mud and not stained, Mao Qing lian and not demon, live up to the high expectations of the three Jin fathers and fellow villagers, the better!
Walk into the Rokumi Sai
Vehicles waiting to be loaded
Rokumizai exhibition room
Cixi Lafayette ordered the Ministry of Internal Affairs to issue a waist plate to Liuwei Zhai to enter the Forbidden City
The communist mayor approved the establishment of Liuwei Zhai, using the era name of the Republic of China
The plaque that endured the tribulations of the Cultural Revolution is back in light
Employees are working in an intense and orderly manner
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