Many friends will ask: What is the point of setting so many diamonds on a watch? In addition to making this watch more expensive, what else can it do? Oh, and show off! But what Binjue wants to say is that in addition to showing the charm of the watch, the diamond setting of the watch is also a form of expression of the inlay process.
Generally speaking, when the number of diamonds in a watch reaches a certain level, it will be called a "fine jewelry watch". The value of these watches is not only reflected in the jewelry raw materials, but more importantly, they use a difficult cutting mode or inlay process, and it often takes longer to complete a watch, and the time cost of production is higher.
We all know that the bezel, strap and dial of the watch are basically manufactured by the machine in accordance with the requirements of the drawings, which is what we often call "carved out of a mold". After carving, it cannot be changed, and the gem must be selected according to this size for mounting, so its requirements for diamonds and gemstones are also particularly strict, and small size differences may not be set into the table.
Therefore, the size, thickness and cutting angle of each diamond used in the watch must strictly comply with the standard. Unlike the diamonds used in fine jewelry, the metal part can be adjusted by hand, and the diamond is set a little denser when it is larger, and a little lower in thickness, which will not affect the overall structure. However, the watch can not be adjusted, its bezel is not uniform after adjustment, the dial will be deformed after adjustment, the pointer may be stuck, or become uneven, affecting the appearance, and even interfere with the operation of the movement.
With ready-made gemstones, it is the skill of the gem setter in the watchmaking system that is tested. Limited by the structure of the watch itself: its metal part is thinner than the jewelry, and the 18K gold itself is relatively soft, and it will be deformed with a little force, so the same setting method used in the watch is a grade higher than the difficulty in the jewelry.
The most common type of gem setting in a jewelry table is a micro-stud setting – it can be thought of as a very small, very precise prong setting, which requires 20 times more microscopy. Every gemstone has a thickness, and to set it in a metal structure that is only one or two millimeters thick and to grasp the diamond with very thin nails, it must also have a good fire, and the effort spent is difficult to describe in words. Non-professionals do not say that the diamond is set on the watch, under the high-power microscope, as long as the hand moves slightly, it will be dizzy by the refracted light
Speaking of the inlay process in the watch, "snowflake inlay" should be familiar to everyone, right? It is to arrange the diamonds in different sizes and spread them like snowflakes on the metal surface. Before performing the snowflake setting method, the setter first selects the most suitable diamond, and then cuts and polishes it to the required diameter size, and the thickness of the diamond is about the same as the thickness of the case, which is difficult to imagine. Then, with exquisite skill, the master laid the diamonds on the case one by one on the working platform. Such a complex and rigorous mosaic method tests the skills of the masters.
Of course, there are many more ways to set in jewelry watches, but none of them are easy. As large as the setting of 0.5 carats and 1 carats of gemstones, its weight can not be rotated if it is too light, too heavy and difficult to control the thickness; as small as the 0.001 carat level of miniature diamonds set on the pointer, it is also necessary to use metal claws to grasp it... These inlay processes require handcraft even better than the assembly of complication charts and the polishing of movements.
Regardless of the setting process, the smaller the diamond, the more complex the process. Watches are works of art on the wrist, diamonds are the king of gemstones, and only the best craftsmanship deserves to combine them perfectly.