On the Chinese table, there are four bowls.
In the bowl, it is filled with porridge flour rice, which is also three meals a day, and it is also a familiar but inexhaustible taste brought by those different fields and regions.
The ingredients in the bowl are either rich, simple, or different in form, but not the same. It was only in the hands of Chinese that they dissolved into a thousand different warm gestures.
Raw porridge stalls. Graph/Network
Porridge is stewed, powder is hot, noodles are boiled, and rice is steamed.
No matter what form the bowl takes in the end, it does not prevent them from having the ability to be full of thousands of tastes. It is not an exaggeration to say that Chinese three meals a day can beat 99% of the world's food documentaries.
Last time, Chengcheng talked to everyone about a bowl of noodles that fed 1.4 billion people. (Click to read)
Today I would like to talk about another food that also hides in the world.
It affects the appetite of Chinese, sometimes as a concoction of food, sometimes as well as the food itself.
gruel.
Different porridges across China. Graph/Network
City City felt.
Perhaps no one in this world can eat porridge more than Chinese.
People's feelings for porridge can be meat porridge with various side dishes in the streets and alleys of the city, and it is the most daily porridge side dish in the homes of ordinary people.
Because, a bowl of hot porridge can warm the stomach of a Chinese.
White porridge. Photo: Food Documentary "China on the Tip of the Tongue"
Among the four staple foods of Chinese, porridge is one of the most difficult foods for people to give up.
Compared with other "noodle rice", a bowl of porridge is much simpler, but it can also have a high exposure rate on the table.
In China, where there are countless delicacies, people always have a place for porridge in the four bowls that people have. Because, only you can't think of it, no porridge can't do it.
Graph/Network
There are also many differences between a bowl of porridge in the north and south.
But among so many different ingredients and different flavors of porridge, there is also a bowl of white porridge that is the most popular.
Chaoshan 丨 drink porridge, the most exquisite
White porridge, the name is very simple, the taste is also very light.
But sometimes, a bowl of light white porridge can also become a temptation.
White porridge. Photo/ Food Documentary "Flavor of the World"
When you have eaten white porridge, your world will be divided into white porridge and other porridges. In the south, a bowl of white porridge that can be seen everywhere is a versatile choice on the table of southerners.
You can get up early to have a bowl, you can come to a bowl without appetite, and you can also come to a bowl at night after the lights fade.
The most able to drink white porridge in the south is the Chaoshan people in Guangdong.
Because, the Chaoshan people who pay attention to diet will be able to cook a simple bowl of white porridge to "out of the blue" - exquisite to the extreme.
Chaoshan white porridge, the grains are clear. Graph/Network
The Chaoshan people call porridge "mime".
In Chaoshan Province, white porridge is not just rice plus water, the method is particularly exquisite.
A good pot of white porridge should be clear and not turbid, the rice grains are clear, and at the same time, it has a texture, and it also needs to be slowly dispersed in the mouth with the aroma of rice when chewing.
Chaoshan eats white porridge, which should be accompanied by "miscellaneous saltiness". Graph/Network
When cooking, the rice should be fresh, and the proportion of water should be strictly distributed to be put into the casserole, boiled over open fire, stirred the whole process, and waited until the original hard white rice began to "burst the waist", turned off the fire, and used the residual heat of the casserole to continue boiling porridge.
Wait another ten minutes, it will become a pot of authentic Chaoshan "white rice"——
The rice grains sink at the bottom of the pot, and on top of it is light white rice water, which tastes slightly hard to eat, but it is full of rice flavor and taste.
In the Chaoshan region, there are always some foods that have a strong appeal to people, willing to let people go deep into danger to search for it and make it delicious on the table.
If it is in Chaoshan, then this food is seafood.
If you give the Chaoshan people a bowl of porridge, they can hold the whole ocean in it.
Chaoshan casserole porridge. Graph/Network
Every time seafood appears, it can always make people can't help but swallow their saliva. If you think the white porridge is light, then there is also a seafood casserole porridge that can make you "taste back from eating".
The Chaoshan region is rich in seafood, and the seafood casserole porridge can be described as "big and rich" - a big pot of porridge full of porridge is full of meat!
In the beginning, Chaoshan casserole porridge was developed on the basis of white porridge with some oysters and sea crabs made of "oyster paste, crab paste" and other "fragrant paste".
The incense of the tide. Graph/Network
Freshly salvaged seafood, a big full, just a simple processing, wait until the white rice is about to "burst the waist" when you put it in and cook, watch the shrimp and crab shells turn red, grease and ointment and rice grains blend with each other, you can float out a seductive fragrance.
At this moment.
A simple pot of white porridge has been sublimated, and the aroma has been set off to the extreme.
All you can hear is the sound of people swallowing saliva and boiling porridge in the pot.
Every bite of porridge you eat carries the taste of seafood, and it penetrates into the depths of your taste buds along with the porridge water. As a result, whenever people think of it later, they become an incomparable yearning for the sea.
Rice, the simplest and most common ingredient, is found in every land in the south;
Chaoshan people love to drink porridge, and the time has not been able to trace the specific time and reason, but it has always been regarded as a special regional culture.
A grain of ordinary rice. After falling into the hands of the Chaoshan people, it has become one of the most "hometown" tastes in the depths of their memories when they left their hometown and traveled far away.
What a bowl of white porridge tastes like, perhaps Chaoshan people know best.
Chaoshan supper stalls. Graph/Network
Shunde 丨 porridge, authentic Shunde taste
Shunde, a city that debuted on food.
Shunde fish raw. Photo: Food Documentary "China on the Tip of the Tongue"
From the first appearance of "The Tip of the Tongue" to the fire after "Taste of Shunde", everyone knows that eating porridge is going to Shunde.
Eating porridge in Guangdong, there are many options. Graph/Network
Porridge is the main flavor of Shunde.
When it comes to porridge, we must first say "raw porridge".
Raw rolling porridge. Photo/ Food Documentary "Taste of Shunde"
Chaoshan as a key area for eating porridge, a pot of delicious Shunde "raw porridge" is actually from the Chaoshan region. However, it was later carried forward in the Shunde area.
"Rolling" is a special way of cooking, which is more common in Guangdong.
To make raw rolling porridge, you will often boil a pot of "beautiful" white porridge first.
Then some of the fast-cooked ingredients marinated in advance, such as pork liver, fish fillets, fish balls, beef, slippery chicken, etc., are put together in the boiling white porridge, and the ingredients are just eaten from the fire, and the food is two words, fresh.
In a raw porridge, there are many ingredients, usually cooked with several ingredients, but the first bowl of 10 pieces.
Shunde and brother porridge. Photo/ Food Documentary "Taste of Shunde"
The porridge of Shunde raw rolling porridge is dense, the rice grains are clear but very refreshing, and it is not the same as other white porridges.
The reason is that the owner of the porridge stall will only tell you, "To choose aged rice with less starch content, wash the rice until the water is not muddy before cooking." ”
As for the rest?
It takes diners to think about it as they eat.
Then there is the pig porridge.
In general.
Pigs, in addition to pork offal, are collectively referred to as "pork offal".
In the past years of poverty, "poverty" can make people flexible and give birth to all things. To cook a pot of porridge, the amount of rice needed is usually only a quarter of the rice, that is to say, one person's rice can feed four people.
rice. Graph/Network
Coupled with the nutrition and rich taste of animal offal, as well as the low price, with a pot of white porridge and pork offal, it has become a popular delicacy in the homes of the people.
Pork porridge is based on the prototype of the Guangdong region and the first porridge raw materials. Like Zhusheng noodles, it is given a beautiful meaning by the Cantonese people who are "most important in auspiciousness":
Eat, high list nominations:
Pork balls, the Cantonese homophone of "pill" and "yuan", denote yuan;
Pig liver, initially used as a cow spleen to indicate the eye, and later replaced it with a more tender pork liver;
Pork powder intestines, cut into three small mouths in a curled place, cooked and become "powder intestine flowers", indicating tanhua.
Nowadays, life is rich, but the Shunde people's love for porridge is still integrated into every bowl of pork porridge, and these three raw materials are still retained.
It became the "Shunde Porridge" of the Yuanyuan and the first porridge.
Boiling pork porridge, can not be urgent. Graph/Network
The owners of the porridge stalls show up on time every night in the slaughterhouses on the outskirts.
Just to get the freshest pork offal.
When you come back, you will process it immediately, sprinkle it with simple salt, sugar, and corn starch to stir and marinate, and then put it into the boiling white porridge.
Pork porridge stall owner, Huang Yuxian. Graph/Network
Although it comes out of the pan together, the order of the ingredients is particularly important, and the taste is the best when the food has just been broken.
Therefore, no matter how many kinds of pork offal are added, the pork liver must be cooked at the end, and after about 3 minutes, it will float. This is the best time to come out of the pot, when the pork liver is soft and moderate, tender and juicy.
It's worth mentioning.
In the Shunde area, there are also hot pots made from porridge water without rice porridge.
"No rice", that is, "no rice".
The white rice is boiled until dissolved in water and then filtered, and the taste is particularly delicate. The bottom of the pot is a thick porridge water, and the meat cooked with it is particularly tender and smooth, and the taste is sweet.
Look, the "porridge" made by the Shunde people is really incredible.
Guangzhou 丨 A bowl of boat porridge, witnessing a hundred years of history
Speaking of porridge in the south, we cannot fail to mention the famous Guangzhou boat porridge.
Boat porridge was originally born on the edge of the Guangzhou River a hundred years ago.
A hundred years later, the scenery of boats and boats is no longer woven, and the porridge of boats has also gone from the river to the tea house and porridge stall. But guangzhou people's feelings for a bowl of boat porridge remain unchanged.
Boat porridge can be seen as one of the models for Cantonese people to be "picky" enough about food.
Since ancient times, Guangdong people have attached great importance to the matter of "eating". Among the same foods at that time, a bowl of steaming, delicious boat porridge entered the eyes of Cantonese people.
Boat porridge. Graph/Network
To make a bowl of boat porridge, you need to boil the porridge bottom with fish bones, use piping hot porridge water to "blanch" sashimi, char siu, squid, jellyfish and other ingredients, and sprinkle some fragrant fried peanuts, green onions and fritters on the porridge noodles.
Ingredients for the boat porridge. Graph/Network
What does that taste like?
Porridge, dense and smooth, and umami; char siu and squid, the taste of meat; jellyfish and peanuts, crisp.
Many tastes, in a bowl of boat porridge in a net.
There are many more, such as roasted bone porridge, salty bone porridge, Yuanyuan and first porridge... They are all representatives of the old Cantonese brainstorming for food.
Champion and the first porridge. Graph/Network
Using ingredients with different tastes, under the warmth and moisture of the porridge water, the strengths of the crowd are gathered to enrich the taste of the porridge base without losing nutrition.
Salty bone porridge. Graph/Network
Nanjing 丨 has the reputation of "first lady" beautiful porridge
Nanjing is a city with a story.
Meiling porridge is a well-known bowl of porridge in Nanjing, and its name also has a very interesting story:
It is said that song Meiling did not think about tea and rice for a period of time, fuzhong chefs used soy milk, fragrant rice and other ingredients to boil into a pot of porridge, Song Meiling drank after the appetite was great, from then on loved this porridge, later spread to the folk, known as "Meiling porridge".
But when you see the ingredients of Meiling porridge, you will also suddenly feel that it is "meiling": it is made with fresh soy milk, glutinous rice, japonica rice, yam, lilies, goji berries, rock sugar and other ingredients.
This bowl of porridge has less rice and will be thinner, but it has a fresh milk fragrance, savor it, and it is smooth and smooth. Perhaps, only such porridge is worthy of the reputation of "first lady".
This bowl of porridge is sweet, like the taste of East China, but also like Jinling City, thousands of years still elegant as old.
The taste in the porridge is indisputable, and the specific taste cannot be eaten, but together with the cooking, it makes people feel light and greasy.
The porridge in Jiangsu and Zhejiang is exquisite and gentle.
The writer Mu Xin wrote in "Juvenile Pilgrimage", "Gusu sauce duck, Pinghu rotten eggs, torn steamed bamboo shoots, dried tofu mixed with Malantou, bright white warm fragrant japonica rice porridge, there is no more gentle than porridge." ”
And the gentleness of Jiangsu and Zhejiang can also be reflected in a bowl of laba porridge.
Laba porridge. Graph/Network
When it is close to the end of the year, the Jiangsu and Zhejiang areas will eat a bowl of "Laba Porridge". Although this bowl of Laba porridge will be eaten all over the country, its temperament is really "very Jiangsu and Zhejiang".
In the traditional sense, Laba porridge is a combination of glutinous rice, red beans, chestnuts, red dates, lotus seeds, cinnamon balls, almonds, raisins, sesame seeds, peanuts and other ingredients, slowly boiled into porridge.
Ingredients for Laba porridge. Graph/Network
These ingredients are all grains, the taste is also very light, add some sugar during the cooking process, and stir continuously with a long handle spoon. When the porridge becomes slightly viscous, add rock sugar to the pan.
A bowl of soft glutinous sweet and chewy Laba porridge, sucking and drinking a lot of fun, is the true temperament of Jiangsu and Zhejiang.
Otherwise, how could Mu Xin go to the United States and come back?
Then write down: "Nian Yu has been displaced from the red dust all his life, and he will not find a person who is gentle like porridge." Woo, yu still frequently recall the ancient town of Jiangnan. "What?
Jiangsu and Zhejiang are big, not only a bowl of Meiling porridge and Laba porridge. It is like a finishing touch, but it monopolizes the gentleness of China, which is the cultural gene that China has given to Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and it will never be changed.
The taste of food accompanies people and the city for a lifetime. Those breaths, the years and memories of the past, together, have come together into a familiar word - taste.
Jinhua 丨 famous in the world, naturally occupies a place
Of course, Jiangsu and Zhejiang also have representatives of the Xian faction. Jinhua's ham, famous all over the world, can naturally share a piece of the porridge.
Jinhua ham. Graph/Network
Roll the shredded ham in a pan with fragrant rice, add the chopped salted egg yolks and cook them.
When it is thick, the green onions of Saang become a bowl of ham and egg porridge.
People who are salty are most suitable for such a bowl of salty porridge. Just the salty ham and the freshly melted rice grains are full of flavor.
Yunnan 丨 The south of abundance, the choice of summer
What does Yunnan taste like? Sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty, with both taste and taste.
Chengcheng feels that many people should not want to talk about Yunnan porridge, and many people do not know how much the food in Yunnan can be reversed.
In Yuxi, Yunnan, a bowl of porridge is not hot, but ice.
Bring glutinous rice to a boil, add brown sugar water, sesame seeds, sago, and finally a spoonful of ice residue.
Yunnan ice porridge. Graph/Network
In Puzhi black, people will pick fresh lotus leaves, the white rice in the pot will be cooked before it is cooked, the lotus leaves will be covered on the pot and simmered, simmer for ten minutes, a pot of porridge has become pale green, with the fresh smell of plants, the taste is refreshing. Eating it in the hot summer is the most refreshing.
When we arrived in Mojiang, we had a specialty of purple glutinous rice.
Yunnan, which is rich in products, brings beauty to rice, but also brings taste. It is used to boil porridge, which is softer and sweeter than white rice, and can also be used to make purple rice dumplings or purple rice steam pot chicken.
In the porridge of the south, the soul lies in the "essence".
A bowl of porridge can meet thousands of flavors and meet various ingredients. Every drop that falls into the porridge comes from the confidence in food and the seriousness of food.
A bowl of porridge is easy to make, but it is a delicate and slow job.
Only by stepping into this land will you find out how this southern porridge is praised and praised.
In Fujian, there are also dazzling varieties of porridge. Graph/Network
Separated by the Qinling Mountains and the Huai River, China is divided into two major regions, north and south.
With that comes the different strengths of food culture. For a bowl of porridge, the northern porridge is characterized by a "vegetarian", which is either grain or dish.
The northeast is rich in wheat and corn, and wheat is used to make noodles, so corn plays a big role in porridge. What does Tohoku taste like? And don't talk about Northeast cuisine, you really need to understand from a bowl of porridge.
Northeast ballast porridge. Graph/Network
The northeast flavor is all in a grain of corn
Dried corn, also known as ballast.
To cook a pot of porridge, you need to use dried corn soaked overnight, plus rice beans and adzuki beans to cook, although it looks simple and rough, but the first time people eat it are still amazing.
Corn kernels, for this bowl of porridge with a better taste.
The porridge water is thin, but the taste of boiled corn makes a bowl of porridge appear golden and mellow, just like the northeasterners, straight and not bent.
Porridge with large ballast. Graph/Network
Northeasterners love to eat pasta porridge.
For example, flapjacks, small nests, steamed buns, accompanied by salted duck eggs and pickles, hungry and healthy. The small ballast porridge, that is, the dried corn kernels are ground and then cooked, the taste is the same, but the texture is delicate and very different.
Small ballast grains. Graph/Network
Shanxi 丨 acid is the king's way
The "lightness" of the north is like a continuous line.
Just like the south does not dare to go to the north to drink porridge, it is really too light. You see, Shanxi people love to eat jealousy in heaven, but in their bones they also love to eat a bowl of millet porridge that is "vegetarian to the extreme".
Millet porridge. Graph/Network
Millet, the representative of authentic Chinese crops, thanks to the soil and climate of the northeast, millet is also one of the regular customers in the homes of northerners.
Although like the white porridge of the South.
You can make porridge without adding ingredients, but you can't call it casual.
There are not many things, but it is still a technical job to cook.
Slow boiling, a grain of millet will slowly melt, away from the fire cover to cook a silky and suitable taste of millet porridge.
Put out a slight cooling, the surface will also gel a layer of thick, thick "rice fat oil", mixed with soft, moist, fragrant, slippery millet porridge together with the mouth, two words: comfortable!
Rice fat oil. Graph/Network
Drinking the remaining millet porridge will also be made into sour porridge.
The production of sour porridge is complicated, smelling sour, drinking sour and sweet, for Shanxi people, sour is the king.
Shaanxi 丨 and pasta, the world is a perfect match
What should I eat when I go to Shaanxi?
What a dough!
But apart from the dough, it's peanut pulp porridge.
The peanuts are soaked, then crushed to cook the rice grains, until the rice grains are dissolved, and then there is a porridge with peanuts and rice, which is filled with the aroma of peanuts.
Eat it with the dough, mellow and delicious, enough to offset the residual spiciness of the dough.
Vegetable tofu porridge. Graph/Network
The porridge here in Shandong is not like a bowl of porridge
Sweet foam, not like the name of porridge, but it is one of the "two monsters of Quancheng" and is salty.
A bowl of Shandong sweet foam with millet, peanuts, cowpeas, dried tofu... Even the ingredients are very peculiar, the appearance is average, but the taste is very attractive.
The reason why it can be called foam is because the ingredients inside have been cooked delicately, and there is no need to eat it with a spoon. Jinan people get up early to eat such a bowl of sweet foam, foam into the stomach, but also let people sigh a good life.
——
Rice and water, soaking each other.
The water has changed the quality of the rice, and the rice melts into the water and comes out delicious and rich.
Porridge and rice, rare and ordinary, can be found everywhere, everywhere. In the three meals a day of Chinese, each pot of porridge was filled with four or two thousand pounds, and the matter was whisked away, and the merit and name were deeply hidden.
The most important thing on the table is porridge flour rice.
However, the taste of porridge is completely different. Hungry but still hungry, it is more like looking for clues to taste in the food. This is a different realm of Chinese's approach to food.
A bowl of porridge that is just simmered, the taste is light, and it is usually unremarkable.
If you want to eat more rich tastes, you need to add a little bit yourself.
Just like a new day, the white porridge is still the icing on the cake. Sometimes, it can be a little bit of gold.
Resources:
1. Where is the best porridge in China? , public number "authentic wind objects"
2. Where is the best porridge in China? (Version 2.0), public number "authentic wind objects"
3. Ji food | How does a bowl of porridge cook a sense of ceremony? Public account "Geely Automobile"
4. A bowl of porridge grunts and boils the whole of China, the public number "China Southern Airlines GATEWAY"
Copyright Notice:
Some of the pictures in this article are from the Internet (including the cover of the article and the first picture of the article), and the copyright belongs to the original author
Author / City
· END ·