Sweets
It tastes delicious, starting with the sweets/gourmet notes of the perfume (Gourmand), which split off from oriental notes in the 90s and is in its own right.
The story at that time, it was like this...
In the past, many oriental perfumes would use a lot of sweet notes such as vanilla, benzoin resin, and ton coumbab, the most typical example of which was the Guerlain Shalimar (Guerlain One Thousand and One Nights) bottle of 1925, which used a lot of vanilla and was immediately well received by the market.
From snacks to a large number of cream cheesecake candy gingerbread macaron popcorn chocolate ice cream Westerners, the love and pursuit of sweets, is far more than Asians.
So, gradually divided into sweets based on the fragrance, called Gourmand, the most famous example is 1992 Thierry Mugler Angel, a large number of vanilla, chocolate, caramel, honey, blended with a variety of intense sweetness, and added an overdose of patchouli, sweet and bitter intertwined, the whole perfume feels like a bomb, burst open.
The traditional "perfume aesthetic" pursues the layering and richness of the perfume - there is a fresh and pleasant initial tone, over time, to the intertwined and continuous heart, and then to the tail tone of the aftersound - this process means completeness, means a sense of quality.
Therefore, even if you take the route of sweets, it is not a straightforward single cookie flavor or saccharin flavor, but in a structure, with sweets as the main body and other notes embellished.
Therefore, some perfumes containing sweets are classified as oriental notes (such as Thierry Mugler Angel) and some are classified as Xep notes (such as Jimmy Choo of the same name).
As for linear perfumes (one note from beginning to end), it is not the mainstream of perfumes. Demeter, for example, is considered more of a fun perfume than a premium perfume.
Of course, if you like a single sweet tooth, such as a simple cake-flavored perfume or an ice cream-flavored perfume, Demeter is a good choice, and the brand's Delicious collection is dazzling.
In addition to Demeter, you can also start with other Mass Market brands, and I recommend Victoria's Secret. The fragrance products of this lingerie brand are well done, and a large number of new products are launched every year, and the style is always all kinds of sweet, gourmet sweet, fruit sweet, floral sweet, pink sweet, colorful variety, and straightforward fragrance. After spraying perfume, it is "so sweet and delicious that people want to eat it". I love Coconut Passion myself, the smell of vanilla coconut milk is really sweet and delicious, and I'm hungry when I smell it.
VS changes are frequent, and Coconut Passion may look like this now.
If you want to try a richer and more varied sweets and perfume, in addition to the Thierry Mugler Angel mentioned above, I'll list a few.
▍ Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Vigorov Flower Bomb
Since angel, the founding father of sweets, is mentioned, it is important to mention Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb.
Flowerbomb is often considered a follow-up to Angel, and what they have in common is that it is so sweet; the difference is that Angel is heavy rock, and Flowerbomb has adapted it into a rock song with pop overtones.
Intense sweetness + bitter and heavy patchouli, this part is like Angel; the adaptation part is to add green and green plant scents and soft roses, so that the perfume is brighter and more receptive.
Flowerbomb is very popular in foreign countries, and there was a soft article that said that because perfume is grenade-like, and too many people buy and use this perfume, major airports around the world need to improve the security level, and even perfume was once ordered to stop selling in airport duty-free shops. What a serious piece of nonsense...
▍ Lancome La Vie Est Belle Lancôme Beautiful life
Lancôme launched the perfume in 2012 and has been selling well for many years. If Angel and Flowerbomb are just the best sellers of individual perfumes, then starting with La Vie Est Belle, the perfume industry has set off a "big sweet fragrance" frenzy, and there have been many imitators.
It has also been suggested that La Vie Est Belle is a follower of Angel and Flowerbomb, but in fact, La Vie Est Belle's changes are relatively large. Angel and Flowerbomb are oriental notes with gastronomic notes, while La Vie Est Belle prefers a gourmet Syrp.
It's still a "sweet + patchouli" combination, but La Vie Est Belle doesn't overuse patchouli, so it doesn't have Angel's arrogance. The addition of flowers and fruits also makes the perfume appear more gentle and sweet. At the same time, iris also brings a soft pink feeling to the perfume.
In fact, all three perfumes are too sweet for me, and I recommend this one the most:
▍ Prada Candy Prada Candy
I deeply feel that this perfume is undervalued by the Chinese market, which is the perfume I have been using last winter, endorsed by The Bond Girl Lea Seydoux.
Prada Candy abandons the almost flooded "sweet + patchouli" route, and does not have the usual floral and fruit tones, which is completely a breeze in the sweet perfume. Made with sweet and smooth caramel, accompanied by powdered iris, and gentle benzoin, sweet and non-sticky, soft and warm. It meets the market's preferences and maintains high quality.
【Insert a perfume trivia】
The iris in perfume is often mistaken for an iris flower. In fact, this raw material is taken from iris root, smells slightly earthy, with a green pink feeling, low and hard. Natural iris is a very expensive raw material. I often smell iris and feel "another bottle of perfume."
▍Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy orange zi sweet long live
This perfume is as a whole young, lively and bright, belonging to the floral and fruit tone + sweets.
Sweet and sour citrus and small berries, feminine gardenia flowers, and sweet notes of vanilla candy, the perfume presents a silky and moist texture like sweet milk. Smells like a sparkling princess.
▍Escada Cherry in the Air Escada Filled with cherries
When the floral and fruit tone + sweets tune become younger and more cute, just like Cherry in the Air, sweet and sour raspberries, soft marshmallows, sweet vanilla, smell like a little girl who does not know the world. The price is also cheap and suitable for young girls.
▍ Jimmy Choo perfume of the same name
If you want a sweet tooth, but don't want to take Angel's aggressive route, nor do you want to take the route of a naïve little girl, it's best to be stylish and sexy, with a little bit of royal temperament, then Jimmy Choo's eponymous perfume is a good choice.
The toffee-topped Sipp perfume smells a bit like Miss Chanel's sweet candy version of Miss Coco.
Friendly reminder: the color of sweets perfume is generally darker, and you should pay attention to avoiding white clothes when spraying.
Momoko flavor
Western perfumers perform peaches, mostly like to make sweet and plump, with a little vanilla and a little berries. Some also like to put it together with tropical fruits, just imagining the picture, they feel rich, sweet and juicy.
These peaches, smelling Chinese, most of them feel too sweet.
Some Japanese perfumes like to use the concept of "white peach", which refers to the sweet and crisp peach aroma, which I think is more in line with Chinese preferences.
In my mind, the "white peach" trait is Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom and Honey.
Some sources say that this perfume contains sweets, which is inaccurate. This perfume is a relatively single peach aroma. Slightly garnished with grapefruit, blackcurrant and other grapefruit, it mainly sets off the natural fresh peach aroma, reminiscent of the crisp and raw texture of the peach flesh, with a sweet juice.
The disadvantage is that this sweet and moist breath gradually fades after the heart note, leaving only the monotonous synthetic raw material C14 peach aldehyde flavor, suddenly losing its natural sense. It's a bit of a great start but a lack of staying power.
If you can accept a little sweet peach flavor, Fresh Sake (Fulnessy sake is slightly drunk) like peach flavored sparkling wine, and the peach is sweet and delicious, with a slight wine flavor, very warm.
As for the richness of the aroma, there are more with peach flavors, such as the soft sister perfume Lanvin E'clat d'Arpege (Lang Fan Guangyun), which I recommend for ten thousand years, with fresh floral fragrance + sweet peaches, to create a cute feeling of young girls, and with a soft texture like baby milk, very soft and cute.
Milky flavor
Pink and tender baby milk fragrance should be the taste that many young girls like, smell like a natural body fragrance, and look very innocent, selling cute first choice.
Sorted out four of the more popular "baby perfumes" and sorted them out:
▍ Most Pink: Bvlgari Petits et Mamans (Bulgari Sweet Baby/Baby and Mom)
Sweet, powdery, soft, much like the taste of baby talcum powder. There are two options: the alcohol-free version and the EDT version, and the fragrance is the same, and the alcohol-free version can also be used by small children.
▍ Freshest: Givenchy collaborated with Tartine et Chocolate on Ptisenbon, Chinese named Baby Bear.
The main notes are citrus, blue and white and some green plants, and the soft milk taste is relatively light. It is the freshest of the four perfumes and the lightest smell.
There are two options of alcohol-free version and EDT, the fragrance is the same, and the alcohol-free version can also be used by small children.
▍ Purest: Baby Peach Baby Tous
There is the smell of orange blossom, which brings the feeling of "washed clean clothes"; there is also the smell of musk, like the warm milk fragrance of a baby. The perfume smelled like a white clean little baby.
▍ Softest cute: Burberry Baby Touch (Burberry Baby Sheep / Love Baby)
It smells a lot like Baby Tous, but sweet milk has a heavier aroma, the heaviest and softest of the four perfumes.
Inside the four, the smell is from thick to light, and the sweetness is arranged from high to low:
Bvlgari Sweet Baby > Burberry Baby Touch > Baby Tous > Givenchy Baby Bear
Of course, the sweetness of these four perfumes is far less than that of sweets, and they are only soft and sweet like babies. The smell is looming, suitable for children and mothers to use the same perfume, but also suitable for young girls. Because the smell is not strong, it is also suitable for creating a natural body fragrance feeling.
Sea salt flavor
Salty perfumes are a trend that has become popular in the past two years.
That's right, like the salt we eat – it's salty.
The perfume industry has opened up a new route in shaping the ocean - sea salt flavor.
The founding father of sea salt is Thierry Mugler Womanity in 2010.
Looking at the bottle, it feels like sm.
This perfume, even in today's popular sea salt tone, is still full of experimentation.
It's salty and sweet and green, with a creamy texture, and the smell of smoked wood characteristic of figs, and the saltiness that smells like caviar that has surpassed sea salt, is very salty.
Everyone can probably think of strange pictures after smelling it, some people think it is an SM-style leather whip mask person, some people think of a caviar hypermarket, some people feel that it is an agricultural heavy metal dark dish, in short, there is nothing normal.
Even stranger, the perfume claims to "express every aspect of a woman," so the name Womanity is puzzling. Anyway, Thierry Mugler has been off the beaten path.
▍ The most recent unusual sea salt tune is the Diptyque Florabellio, which was launched in 2015.
Inspired by the spring scene of a rural town, the perfume may seem to be a rustic little freshness, but in fact it smells slightly salty with a metallic cold feeling, interweaved with slightly bitter black coffee, slightly hot spicy notes, and sweet apple jam. Although it is not as wild as Womanity, it is not a small freshness.
Florabellio is the polarized perfume that "people who like it love very much, people who hate it are black all their lives", which I think is so strange that spraying it will look strange, but french writer Philippe Claudel wrote this perfume as a short story.
"The saltwater foam stirred up by waves is bubbling"
"Rain falls on an apple tree that is blooming flowers"
"Piled up in the existence of our curiosity, these are the journeys of life"
*Philippe Claudel is a French writer and playwright who wrote the book "The Little Granddaughter of Mr. Lin", which won the 2005 French Bookshop Award, and the Chinese edition was translated by Shang Wenjie.
▍ Olfactory experiences are often associated with life experiences, and if there is a perfume that makes me feel "nostalgic", it is also a perfume with sea salt tones - Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt.
The perfume uses the saltiness of sea salt to express the marine tone, but it smells very fresh. The smell of moist green plants plays a role in this. The perfume has a very special warmth, reminding me of walking on the beach with grass and gravel, the air is humid, the sea breeze is mixed with salty smells, and the damp wood tones of wood soaked in water. This is the taste of the sea closest to my hometown.
Sage and ocean should be the most accepted one among all kinds of sea salt perfumes.
▍ There are also commercial lines of perfume brands that use sea salt tones, such as Bvlgari Aqva Divina (Bulgari Haiyan Women).
The male fragrance that smells like the Aqva series is too hot to sell, so the matching is made into a female fragrance. The feeling of "water vapor" is moist and salty, like the smell of sun-dried skin after coming ashore from the sea.
There is also Paco Rabanne Olympea (goddess of Pagao), which is very sweet and salty and dry.
CK Reveal Men and women also use sea salt flavor for incense, female incense uses sea salt with wood to make a ambergris feeling, male incense is salty with sweetness, and water is sticky.
In the past, the shaping of the ocean tone by perfumes mostly reflected the fresh sea breeze and refreshing sea water, and in the past two years, some new perfumes have extended a new direction on the ocean tone - "salty sea salt in the sea". Sea salt is a new trend in new perfumes. As for whether it smells good or not, whether it can be affirmed by consumers needs to be proved by the market.
Perfume has two functions for me, one is to embellish myself, and the other is to smell adventure.
So, even if I don't really use it, I still like to experience these smells that have never been smelled before, whether it is good smelling, strange, heavy mouth, chaotic, I can use my sense of smell to experience an Alice walk.
I also hope that in the future, there will be more new and peculiar trends in perfumes, making the world of smell more interesting.
Sugar is toxic
Is there a perfume that depicts "poison in sugar"?
In my mind, the standard answer is Thierry Mugler Angel.
The name of the perfume, Angel, is so confusing that some people may think that it is a kind and lovely angel.
In fact, the perfume advertising poster is arrogant.
Perfume bottles are also very confusing, looking like crystal clear blue stars, easy to mistakenly think that the perfume is fresh and sparkling.
In fact, the perfume is as rich as molten pulp, hot and dazzling, and angel's main taste is a huge sweet candy + a huge bitter patchouli, which is like a bomb, full of murderous, and will not forget it once it is smelled.
Angel is very sweet, and it has all the sweetness you can think of, caramel, honey, vanilla, jam, and together it is sticky and sweet.
At the same time, it contains an excessive amount of patchouli, with dark chocolate and smoked leather, this note seems to be directly quoted from men's perfume, like a heavy locomotive, crushing a thick layer of bitterness on the sweetness, and the bitterness is heavier and heavier the middle and back.
I can still smell the hot smell of animals in Angel, which adds a little dirtiness to the perfume. The perfume is bittersweet, sweet and depraved, sweet and poisonous, and extremely impactful.
After Angel, there are many perfumes that follow the "sweet + patchouli" route, such as Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Miss Dior Cherie, but these perfumes skillfully handle the ratio of sweet and patchouli, sweet and delicious, patchouli round and stylish, and with floral or fruity notes, adding beauty and cuteness. These perfumes are pleasing to consumers in terms of smell.
However, I think that the people who created Angel didn't want to curry favor at all, but rather created a perfume that could be used by the people who took it.
When Angel was launched, the mainstream market did not take the sweets + oriental notes of perfume, so Angel won the success of the market at that time with its breakthrough smell, and laid the foundation for the branch of oriental notes - sweets.
Although, today, Angel's scent is so aggressive that it is not an exaggeration to describe it as "toxic", it is a scent weapon if it is smelled in the workplace or confined space. But this does not affect its success at the level of perfume design, nor does it affect its deep love by many people.
Another successful follower of Angel is Lolita Lempicka, who also fits the "toxic sugar" feel.
Lolita Lempicka uses licorice to accompany the sweetness. Sweet honey, with a hint of star anise medicinal taste, cool and salty, and some green astringency. It's so sweet that it has a dark attribute. If Angel is a solid gas bomb, then Lolita Lempicka is a Ecstasy that will poison you unconsciously.
Lolita Lempicka's poster is slightly stained, so please enjoy it.