Guinea pigs are a superform rodent (related to totoro and porcupine) originating in the Andes region of South America. They may have been first domesticated by the Peruvian Indians, who offered them as food and sacrifices to their gods. In the 16th century, Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe, and selective breeding and captive rearing became prevalent.
Guinea pigs are very popular pets because they are easy to get, docile in temperament, do not bite or scratch when handled, and have relatively clean habits. They don't live long, which can upset the owner (especially the child). However, many parents believe that having their children experience a relatively short period of companionship and subsequent death is a meaningful way to get their children to experience the "ups and downs" of life.
In their natural habitat, guinea pigs live in open meadows. They seek refuge in nature reserves or caves abandoned by other animals. Guinea pigs are social animals and prefer to live in groups. They are strictly herbivores (feeding on plants) and most of the foraging time is in the late afternoon and late afternoon.
Guinea pigs have been used in biomedical research laboratories for many years. As a result, their medical problems have traditionally been solved on a collective basis, not on an individual basis.
Scientific name: Cavia porcellus
Lifespan: 3-4 years
Potential lifespan: 6-7 years
Ideal ambient temperature range: 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit
Ideal relative humidity range: 40-70% (50% ideal)
Recommended age at first reproduction: male: 3-4 months; Female: < 3-7 months (not more than 7 months)
Estrus time: (estrus cycle) 16 days
Estrus period (preparation period for females to mate with males): 8 hours
Pregnancy (pregnancy): Average 63-68 heavens
Average litters: 3-4 cubs (range: 1-6)
Weaning age: 2-3 weeks
Distributed worldwide as a pet or laboratory animal and as food
Humans are allergic to guinea pig dander: Some people are allergic to guinea pig hair and/or dander. People who work with guinea pigs under laboratory conditions are more likely to develop this allergy because of their constant association with guinea pigs. Symptoms include itchy eyes, sneezing, runny nose, persistent cough, shortness of breath, wheezing, rash, and anaphylactic shock (true emergency). Pet guinea pig owners may also be prone to allergies, and if guinea pigs are kept at home as pets, they should consult a doctor for allergies. Owners of guinea pigs may need to consult an allergist if they suspect an allergic reaction.
<h1>Health of guinea pigs</h1>
In order for your guinea pig to be in the best condition, you need to take care of it every day, checking it for signs of illness and injury. They may be very sick, but unless you're looking for specific symptoms, you may not realize he's sick until he's very sick. Take a good look at your guinea pigs. He looked radiant, alert, or sitting listlessly. Was he relaxed, hunched over, or gritted his teeth. Is your guinea pig behaving the same as usual? Many experienced animal owners will tell you that the first sign of their illness is: "The animal just behaves differently".
The following conditions can be considered very serious and you should seek appropriate veterinary services immediately:
Not eating for more than eight hours
Bleeding from the mouth, rectum, or genitals
Inability to urinate
Extreme drowsiness (may also be accompanied by the above.)
Watery, foul-smelling diarrhea
Complications of pregnancy: nervousness, bleeding, or drowsiness in childbirth
If you notice any of the following, see your veterinarian for the next 24 hours:
Runny nose, runny nose or runny tears
The scratching continued, even to the point of drawing blood
Crying when urinating, or blood in the urine
Decreased ability to eat, especially in cases of overeating or drooling
Diarrhea consists of very soft and unformed stool
You should see a veterinarian as soon as possible or seek advice from a veterinarian in the following cases:
hair loss
Frequent sneezing (more than once or twice a day)
Changes in demand
Changes in water intake (drink more, drink less)
Very soft feces
Eye condition: Healthy guinea pigs have bright, alert eyes. Watery eyes, red and swollen eyes, and pus are all signs of eye infection that requires veterinary attention. Dim eyes indicate that the guinea pig is feeling uncomfortable and requires further investigation to determine the cause.
Ear condition: Look at your guinea pig ears. Are there any signs of wax deposits or gray-black debris? If so, he needs to check for ear mites and if treatment is needed. Red and signs of infection need to see your veterinarian.
Sensitivity of guinea pigs to certain antibiotics: Guinea pigs as a group are very sensitive to certain antibiotics, whether taken orally or injected. Potentially harmful antibiotics include ampicillin, penicillin, bacitracin, erythromycin, lincomycin, gentamicin, clindamycin, streptomycin, vancomycin, and sometimes tetracycline. Interestingly, even topical use of certain antibiotics can have fatal effects. The main way certain antibiotics cause a response is to alter the normal microbial balance in the gastrointestinal tract, and once the normal intestinal microfluidic balance is disrupted, some bacteria will multiply abnormally. These multiplying bacteria produce harmful chemicals that can have a deadly effect. Certain antibiotics (streptomycin, dihydro streptomycin) are directly toxic and do not alter the microbial balance in the gastrointestinal tract. These antibiotics should not be used in guinea pigs. While injecting antibiotics can cause these problems, oral antibiotics are often associated with them. If the doctor prescribes antibiotics for oral or injectable purposes, give the animals 2.5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) of pure white yogurt every morning and evening during antibiotic treatment, followed by another 5-7 days. Yogurt helps replace those beneficial gut bacteria that often die during antibiotic treatment.
<h1>Management of guinea pigs</h1>
When guinea pigs are picked up, they rarely struggle fiercely, but often make "screams of protest," which to many sounds like pigs. However, be careful not to hurt them when picking them up. The guinea pig should be approached with both hands. One is placed under the guinea pig's chest and abdomen, and the other supports its hind legs. Adults and pregnant women deserve gentle, determined and comprehensive support. One of the most satisfying characteristics of guinea pigs as pets is that they rarely bite when they are petted or restrained. One study showed that in this case, only 1 in 400 people would bite.
Pick up the guinea pig and place your palm under its hind legs to support its weight. If it struggles, grab the hind legs for a firmer grip.
To hold the guinea pig for injections, grasp and stretch the hind limbs with the other hand. This will enable veterinarians to inject the animal's abdomen.
Proper housing is a major factor in maintaining healthy guinea pigs. Animal health must be a primary consideration. Guinea pigs can be kept in cages made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic or glass. The latter three materials are preferred because they are corrosion resistant. Wood and similar materials should not be used in the construction of fences, as they are difficult to clean and cannot withstand gnawing. The structure and design of the enclosure must prevent leakage. The shell must also be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards. The paddock must be spacious enough to allow normal activity and reproduction, if the latter is required. One reference recommendation is to have at least 100 square inches of floor space per adult dog, while each animal should have a breeding area of 180 square inches. The shell can be opened at the top, as long as its sides are at least 7-8 inches tall. Male guinea pigs (especially males in breeding) require a fence at least 10 inches high. Men tend to be more noisy. Guinea pigs can be placed in barbed wire (suitable for mice), but this is not recommended. While the barbed wire can keep bedding and residents clean by allowing urine and most of the fecal particles to enter, guinea pigs that have been kept on the wire for long periods of time tend to cause serious damage to the soles of their feet (see the section on Foot Pad Infections). Also, if one leg is wrapped in a net, it may break. This is the most common problem for guinea pigs, as guinea pigs are not kept on barbed wire and arise shortly after they are introduced into the barbed wire.
Fencing provides solid flooring and plenty of preferred bedding is the best choice for pet guinea pigs. They should be easy to clean, well illuminated, and well ventilated (see for important statistics on preferred temperature and relative humidity ranges). Bedding must be clean, non-toxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free, and easy to replace. Shredded paper, wood chips and processed corn cobs are preferred bedding. Sawdust should be avoided as it tends to accumulate inside the male's external genitalia, forming an inlay. This incarceration rarely interferes with urination, but it may inhibit successful reproduction. Cedar wood chips should also be avoided, as the pleasant smell they bring to the cage is actually toxic to animals.
Guinea pigs look most comfortable when they are not exposed to excessive noise, unnecessary excitement, and other stress. Sudden movement should also be prevented. Guinea pigs react in two different ways when they are startled by loud noises or sudden movements, or when they are placed in an unfamiliar environment. They may "freeze" completely (up to 20 minutes), or they may panic. Panic involves erratic running and jumping, often accompanied by sharp screams. Packs of guinea pigs may run around in droves, often trampling on the younger residents inside the fence. The panicked reaction will scatter bedding and food everywhere, staining food and water containers. Visual safety (where they can retreat when they are frightened) should always be provided. Rectangular fences with obstacles also reduce the tendency to pedal and circle.
Hygiene:
The frequency of cleaning the enclosure depends on the design of the enclosure, the material of manufacture and the number of guinea pigs inside. In general, the fence and all cage "furniture" should be cleaned and disinfected once a week. Food and water containers should be cleaned and disinfected once a day. More than one set of containers should be kept and, if possible, dirty containers should be washed in the dishwasher. Scrub the enclosure and "furniture" vigorously with hot water and soap, and disinfectant should be used after thorough rinsing. Vinegar is usually needed to remove the scale deposited by guinea pigs' crystal urine.