This article was published in Sanlian Life Weekly, No. 2-3, 2020, the original title is "Yunnan Pickled Vegetables Recipe", it is strictly forbidden to reprint privately, and infringement must be investigated
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Dried pickled vegetables in mangshi in the drying
When mentioning Yunnan, the information in the brain gushes, it is estimated to equalize the 5G rate, even if the Yunnan pickles are such a small file, the invisible index finger is only a little, mountains, mountains, river valleys, dams, lakes, ethnic groups, livelihoods, collection... All kinds of images, pictures, sounds, words, spray out, the starry sky is as vast as the eyes, can only be said quietly: the kaleidoscope is as brilliant.
Undulating terrain, inconvenient transportation, complex climate, diverse products, and many ethnic groups, once these labels come up, Pickled vegetables in Yunnan will also become very diverse and complex. Speaking of pickling time, on the whole, it can be operated all year round, not pickling this kind of pickling, here is not pickled there, low altitude is not pickled high altitude pickling, but the best pickling time, or the lunar winter month and wax moon.
In most parts of Yunnan, the day is often a good sun with one head and one face every day. The cold current in the north went south, passing through Sichuan and Guizhou, but it was hindered by the high mountains of Yunnan; even if there was an occasional breakthrough, it was only three days at most, that is, the smoke cloud of Kunming - Kunming quasi-stationary front, achieving a sunny weather in Yunnan in winter. During the day the sun and night frost, a huge temperature difference, so that the vegetable nutrients accumulate rapidly, out of the tender and juicy a little sweet. People of all ethnic groups in Yunnan, in addition to being idle and out in the sun, must also dry some vegetables in order to pickle: on the edge of the vegetable field in Pingba, there are high hanging radish skewers and vegetable skewers; inside and outside the courtyard of the farmhouse, dustpans are hung with ropes to dry all kinds of vegetables; even in Kunming City, the drying of large bitter vegetables, eggplants, radish strips, etc., may be hidden or appear everywhere.
All over Yunnan, go out to eat bowls of breakfast, rice noodles, bait silk, noodles, self-selected condiments, there will be one or two kinds of pickles that are locally preferred - all kinds of pickles marinated with large and small bitter vegetables and radish wisps. The absolute major item in pickled vegetables: each region and all ethnic groups will pickle water pickles, dried pickles, wax pickles, and winter vegetables with different flavors, each with their own preferences, and will also learn from each other and appreciate each other. Like dried pickles, there are two different flavor types: Zhaotong and Qujing Xuanwei flavors in the northeast and Dehong and Baoshan Tengchong in the southwest.
Zhaotong and Qujing Xuanwei mountainous areas are the majority of Yi ethnic groups, and Most of the Pingba Han nationalities. The staple food in the mountainous areas, earlier it was basically buckwheat, oats, and later corn and potatoes, these staple foods with high starch content are easy to form accumulated food, and acid to help digestion is a physical need. This area has complex mountains, cold and changeable winter climate, relatively bitter cold in Yunnan, but close to Dongchuan Province, the largest copper producing area of the year, there are several copper transport ancient roads and other ancient roads connecting the inland, dense mining and smelting and a large number of transportation teams, as well as several frequent military operations, but also made dried pickled vegetables a food emergency necessities.
To pickle this kind of dry pickle, you must first dry the large bitter vegetables to the semi-dry, and then the large vat is stacked in layers, sprinkled with salt and spices between the layers, pressed and covered with water and marinated for forty or fifty days, fermented and matured, taken out and dried, tied and preserved, the style is rough. Home-cooked dishes made with dried pickles include pickled red bean soup, pickled potato soup, pickled broad bean soup, pickled stir-fried garlic, pickled meat shredded, pickled tofu soup and so on.
Dehong dried pickles, with the help of glutinous rice starch in the production: small bitter vegetables or radish tassels washed and dried, washed and hammered with steamed glutinous rice, soaked and fermented in a tank for about a month, after boiling and then dried again, and then soaked and boiled and dried, so repeatedly soaked, boiled, sun-dried, tireless, and finally made into a dry pickle roll with black brown oil, looking small and beautiful. There is also a by-product – a pickle paste made from boiling in the remaining juice. Of course, the practices of each family are roughly the same, and each has its own details. Dried pickles are easy to carry and easy to preserve, simple cooking, the local flavor immediately appears, such as using dried pickle segments with coriander, small chives, millet spicy crumbles, salt, boiling water, slightly cold is a bowl of sour and appetizing "Green Dragon Crossing the Sea Soup". The pickle paste is slightly sour and slightly sweet, and is used locally as a dipping sauce and seasoning for roast meat and roast pork skin.
The dry pickles and pickle pastes of the Tengchong Han people are also roughly quite different from the practices of the Dai people in Mangshi. In the early years of the Ming Dynasty, the Han people migrated from the "southeast of the Great River" to Baoshan Bazi on a large scale, and crossed the Nu River, in that area, the higher altitude of Tengchong To build a city juntun, dried pickles, pickled vegetable cream, directly borrowed from the adoption of the neighboring Dai diet, not from the Nanzhao period to migrate Xi cuan (Yi ancestors) to Baoshan, brought the dried pickles in northeast Yunnan (some scholars' views) - two kinds of dried pickles, from the material, process to flavor, the difference is quite large. The staple food of the Dehong Dai people, which was mainly glutinous food in the early days, is similar to the Xishuangbanna Dai people, and after long-term exchanges, it is now half of "glutinous rice".
The ethnic minorities in Yunnan, there are four major systems of Baiyue, Baipu, Qiangqiang, miaoyao, together with the Han and other ethnic groups, large scattered, small settlements, staggered interspersed in high mountains, mountains, Pingba, river valleys to live, settlements of different altitudes, different products, different ways of livelihood of each ethnic group, eating habits, dietary aesthetics are not the same. Many ethnic groups have the custom of collecting, and their pickles appear in large quantities to collect wild plants and fungi.
Sweet shoots
Lijiang and Nujiang, for example, prefer to pickle kimchi from the tip of a wild oil plant, the "green thorn tip". In historical records, Dali residents collected "Gaohe vegetables" at the top of Cangshan Mountain to pickle pickles, and thought that they were valuable, and at present, Gaohe vegetables are rare, and pickled nectar is common. In the Red River Valley, pickled "goat milk vegetables", because of preferences, goat milk vegetables have been artificially grown. Chuxiong people's home, pickled black tiger palm mushrooms and other wild mushrooms. Baoshan Changning, pickled "water chicken fir", is consistent with the historical record of "the natives boiled salt as a sauce".
As for bracken, it is pickled all over Yunnan. In some places, the Bai and Yi people use white alpine rhododendron petals to pickle white cauliflower, and then use cauliflower to marinate sea cauliflower. South of the Ailao Mountains, west of Gaoligong, the Hengduan Mountains, ethnic minority settlements of various departments, the collection and consumption of plants is various, the so-called "green is all vegetables", the collection of varieties in a place is often more than a hundred species, many of which are used for pickling, such as wood ginger, and then such as fire sickles, but a sour shoot with different flavors in various places will suppress the rest of the names. The wild winged fruit vines of Ailao Mountain and Wuliang Mountain, the fruit is twin, the locals divide the individual fruit into two, pickled by the method of pickling, the taste is crisp and wild, it is my personal favorite pickle.
At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, large-scale migration of Han Chinese in Yunnan began, the team came from different places, the climate and products of the settlement were different, and the eating style was not completely consistent, even if the two neighboring dams, there were differences, pickled vegetables, flavor preferences were also different. Living with the surrounding ethnic minorities for hundreds of years, it is inevitable that the diet will be immersed in each other and integrated. Like Kunming Bazi likes water pickles and winter vegetables, the neighboring Songming Damzi likes wax pickles. Pickled pickled vegetables, will add lettuce oil, small pot rice noodles, large pot rice noodles with water pickles, bean blossom rice noodles with winter vegetables, has become the "iron law" of Kunming rice noodles.
Central Yunnan, that is, Kunming and the surrounding areas of Kunming, is the world of "carp": eggplant carp, chili carp, sea vegetable fish, taro rod fish, lotus carp, bean carp, radish silk carp, melon carp, bent root carp, white flower fish, bracken carp, wild mushroom fish, artificial mushroom fish, mushroom foot carp, no vegetables and no fish - Yuan Dynasty Xiutong Kunming - Qujing - Guizhou - Hunan "Tonghu Guangdao", during the Ming and Qing Dynasties became the "official road" between Yunnan and the central government, through this way, the "fish" from Jingchu immigrants, and the Yunnan ingredients were in love with Yunnan ingredients. "Rose kohlrabi" is a necessary ingredient for the rice killer "black three chops", vegetables, sauces, flowers, sunshine, time chorus - into the jar pickling, out of the tank to dry, repeatedly use for 8 months. It is marinated and fermented with red crushed spicy seeds, which is the main flavor of the bad spicy stir-fried meat, the bad spicy fried potatoes, and the bad spicy fried rice. Folk yimen mung tempeh is a water tempeh marinated with green beans, which is a small and fresh meat in tempeh.
"Splashing clay pot" is a more special pickling device, generally common is to put forward, rarely upside down. Pickling some vegetables, such as lotus flakes, the mouth of the jar is tightly stuffed with specially woven straw knots, upside down in the lid of the jar with about one-third of the water added, during the pickling process, the excess water in the lotus slices can be precipitated through the straw, and the gas produced can also be discharged smoothly, and the pickle is called "fluttering lotus".
Other well-known pickles include: Qujing leek flower, dried bacillus leek flower, Kaiyuan sweet cabbage, Xinping pickle, Midu la pickle, Baoshan cauliflower pickle, Dai water pickle, pickled root, Jiangcheng Yao pickled cucumber (huge), pickled bitter shoots, pickled small sparrow.
Writing this, the two cheeks are sour, and the intention is still not exhausted.
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