Cartography/Yuan Guoming
The "Favor" group and guest Gao Shen (center) took a group photo in front of Shen Jiaben's former residence
Gao Shen led the team through Xuannan Hutong
The former residence of Gong Zizhen, who is in the process of retreating
Dongguan New Pavilion is the legendary Nian Tang Yao mansion
As we all know, there are countless cultural relics in Beijing that have been preserved and accumulated for a long time. In order to help friends living in or coming to Beijing to understand the profound connotation of this "cultural center" more realistically, more deeply and more systematically, this newspaper launched the "Beiqing Edition" Beijing cultural route. In the form of field search, we will lead readers to measure this ancient and new city with their feet, to read, taste, feel and touch its texture. We expect that such a line will be intertwined one by one, and a cultural map of Beijing that has both temperature and sense of the times will be presented.
On August 21, Beijing was late summer and early autumn, but in the afternoon, the heat of the summer was still there. The "Favor" members followed Gao Shen ("Shen Ge"), a young scholar of literature and history in Beijing, on a journey of search in Jinjing Hutong, Shangxiao Street and Xiaxiao Street in the Xuannan area, where there were many guild halls and many celebrities living, thus forming a unique regional cultural characteristic.
Gao Shen detailed several old celebrity sites in the hutong, including the former residence of Shen Jiaben, the minister of law cultivation at the end of the Qing Dynasty, the Henan Guild Hall, the "position" of the Kang Youwei and other reformists, the former residence of the poet Gong Zizhen, and the new dongguan hall, which is said to have been the residence of Nian Qianyao... In addition, there were many small guild halls along the way, and Gao Shen also pointed out one by one, including Wuning Guild Hall, Huzhou Guild Hall, Shaoxing County Guild Hall, Guanzhong West Hall, Taizhou Guild Hall Branch Hall, and Tang County Guild Hall. Some members were curious about how he examined it, and Gao Shen replied that in order to confirm the current location of these places, he took the old map of the Republic of China period and related materials and repeated it five times.
In addition to the meticulous and detailed examination, Gao Shen's on-site explanation is also unique, quite a "storytelling" style: the tone is depressed, the pause is just right, and the focus is loud. When introducing unfamiliar characters, he often uses celebrity analogies so that everyone can understand: the relationship between Kang Youwei and Kang Guangren is like Su Shi and Su Rui; the relationship between Yi Yi and Gu Taiqing is like that of Zhao Mingcheng and Li Qingzhao. Who is Gu Taiqing? "Manchurian poets, males have Naran sex, and women have Gu Taiqing!" The "favor" members listened with such relish that they were still unsatisfied at the end of the event, saying: "This is the end? Haven't heard enough of it yet! ”
Jinjing Hutong
The founder of modern Chinese law
Shen Jiaben's former residence in Beijing
Shen Jiaben's former residence at No. 1 Jinjing Hutong is the starting point of the search route. Due to the epidemic, it is temporarily closed to the public. From the visit instructions at the entrance of the courtyard, it can be seen that this is a three-entry courtyard covering an area of more than 1,000 square meters, and the east ear room of the first courtyard is expanded into five two-story small buildings, which is the place where Shen Jiaben wrote and collected books, named "Pillow BiLou", and the building once contained more than 50,000 volumes.
In Gao Shen's view, Shen Jiaben is a very important figure in China's modern history, and his achievements can be evaluated by the four words "meritorious to great". During the period when he was ordered to preside over the revision of the law at the end of the Qing Dynasty, Shen Jiaben "referred to the ancient and modern, and studied Both Chinese and foreign countries", and in order to realize the revision policy of "meeting China and foreign countries", he actively organized forces to translate the laws of capitalist countries as a blueprint for the revision of the law. At the same time, he asked for the establishment of a law school, the cultivation of specialized judicial talents, the hiring of foreign jurists as legal advisers, and the dispatch of personnel to foreign countries for investigation. At his suggestion, torture such as lingchi, beheading, corpses, and stings was abolished. It can be said that he is the founder of modern Chinese law.
No. 1 Jinjing Hutong was originally the location of the Gui'an Guild Hall (also known as wuxing guild hall), gui'an and wuxing are all areas under the jurisdiction of huzhou, and the Shen family is a huzhou person. He came from a family of the Punishment Department and served in the Punishment Department for a long time. In 1892, Shen Jiaben left the Ministry of Punishment and served as the prefect of Tianjin and The prefect of Baoding. In 1901, the "New Deal" reforms provided him with a great opportunity to develop his ambitions. Shen Jiaben was promoted to the post of Right Attendant of the Punishment Department and returned to Beijing to take up his post. After 8 years of leaving the Punishment Department and returning to his hometown, he began to usher in the most glorious period of his life. It was also in this year that Shen Jiaben bought the abandoned Wuxing Guild Hall, slightly repaired it and lived in it, spending the last ten years of his life here.
Gao Shen told everyone that the pillow Bilou is very beautiful, after the restoration of the second floor was set aside as a reading room, "many people visit a circle and leave, do not know (there is a reading room), everyone can go up to sit and read books later." ”
"Since it's called Jinjing Hutong, we have to look at this well." Gao Shen took a few steps to the left, only to see a square stone slab in the middle of a metal fence, and four round holes were evenly distributed on the stone slab. However, there is no well under the round hole, but land. Gao Shen explained that the Four Eyes Well was not originally here. He walked to the ramp in the green space in front of the courtyard and told everyone that the position under his feet was where the well was. Along the ramp, the ground in the middle of the platform is covered with glass, and below it is a rectangular space with overgrown weeds and two sections of ruins looming. "Guess what this is?" Later, Gao Shen announced the answer, "This is a shadow wall. "Shen Jiaben's former residence later became a large courtyard, the residents saw that this shadow wall is very good, grinding bricks on all sides, they dismantled it to repair the house, do not admit it, only the place that can be seen around is good bricks, the middle is rotten bricks, and finally there is a section left here.
On Incline Street
Where is Kang Youwei's temporary residence, which is not clear in the historical records?
Walking a few tens of meters north along the east wall of Shen Jiaben's former residence is Shangxian Street. Most of the hutongs in Beijing are horizontal and vertical, while the upper and lower slope streets are inclined from northeast to southwest, but the upper slope street is horizontal street, and the lower slope street is vertical street, and the two intersect on the west side of upper slope street and the north side of lower slope street. During the Ming Dynasty, it was called Xixiao Street, and in the Qing Dynasty, it was divided into upper and lower diagonal streets.
There are two theories about the formation of the diagonal street. One is that the original river channel here is not straight, and the road formed along the river is not correct. Not only is the direction not correct, but the height of the road surface is also different, high in the west and low in the east. Gao Shen let the members feel that going west from the east entrance of Shangxiao Street is actually "climbing", and the west entrance is one or two meters higher than the east entrance. Most of the houses on both sides of the road were built on the steps, which is said to prevent water from accumulating on the street, which may also support the saying that the "river road" is said to be. Another theory of the cause of Shangxiao Street is that it is a shortcut connecting the old city of Jinzhongdu and the new city of Yuandadu.
Qing Dynasty guild hall culture prevailed. Gao Shen said that the guild hall is similar to the "Beijing office" in various places, except that it is not funded by the government, but often funded by officials living in Beijing, and there is often more than one guild hall in Beijing. Because shangxiao street is only "one step away" from Xuanwu Gate, it occupies a favorable location, and there are no less than 10 guild halls in the hutong of more than 600 meters.
Gao Shen said that in addition to the many guild halls, there are also many temples on the upper slope street, and there were two Guandi temples in the north of the road, plus one in the three temples on the west side, three Guandi temples, from east to west, which are called the first temple, the second temple and the three temples. Nowadays, the first temple and the three temples are no longer there, and the second temple has become a private house, which has been rebuilt several times, and only the mountain gate is still faintly recognizable.
The name of Three Temples Street comes from the Three Temples on the street. Speaking of Sanmiao Street, Gao Shen introduced that this street was formed during the Youzhou City period of the Tang Dynasty and was called the oldest street in Beijing, of course, it was not called this name at that time.
The location of Kangleli Primary School at No. 36 Shangxiao Street is the location of the Henan Guild Hall.
The origins of the Henan Guild Hall can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty. Gao Shen verified that Gao Gong, a Henan official who was an official in the same dynasty as Zhang Juzheng, purchased land on Shangxiao Street to build a "Zhongzhou Township Ancestral Hall", but when it was first built, there were only three bungalows, but it became a meeting place for people in Jingyu, which was also the prototype of the Henan Guild Hall. During the Kangxi Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, a township shrine and a matching house were built on the basis of the old house, and since then, it has been officially called the Zhongzhou Township Ancestral Hall. At the same time, Henan officials also purchased land opposite the Zhongzhou Ancestral Hall and built the Luoshe Society. As a result, the Henan Guild Hall began to take shape. Since then, Xianfeng, Tongzhi, Guangxu years of expansion, Henan guild hall covers a considerable area, south to Zhiqiao Hutong, north to Shangxiao Street, is Henan in the Beijing guild hall occupies the largest scale.
In 1895, Kang Youwei led a letter to the Guangxu Emperor with 1,200 people to oppose the signing of the Treaty of Maguan, which was a disgrace to the country, known in history as the "Book on the Bus", and the Henan Guild Hall was the place where the provinces gathered and signed. Since then, it has become a place for the reformists to meet and discuss. When Kang Youwei initiated the establishment of the Baohui, he also used this place as the seat of the meeting.
Kang Youwei is a native of Nanhai, Guangdong, and the Nanhai Guild Hall in Mishi Hutong is his main residence in Beijing, but in addition, he also lived in Shangxiao Street for a period of time, and the specific location is not clear in the historical data. Gao Shen speculated that there are two possibilities: one is the Panyu Guild Hall, because Panyu and the South China Sea, one is located in the southeast of Guangzhou City, one is located in the southwest of Guangzhou City, not far away, it is also considered to be a native of the hometown, and it is natural to live in the Panyu Guild Hall; the other is the Henan Guild Hall. Kang Youwei first ran the "Chinese and Foreign Chronicles" and the Qiang Society, which was built in Anhui Huiguan recruited and presided over by Li Hongzhang, and later he changed the base of the Qiang Society and the Baohui Association to the Henan Guild Hall. In order to facilitate the presidency, Kang Youwei simply lived in Shangxiao Street for a period of time. In this way, living in Henan Guild Hall is undoubtedly the most convenient.
Along with Kang Youwei, who temporarily lived on Shangxiao Street, there was his brother Kang Guangren. Kang Youwei once used "like Su Shi and Su Rui" to describe his good relationship with his brother. Gao Shen introduced that Kang Guangren had studied Western medicine for three years, and when he first came to Beijing, he accompanied Liang Qichao, who was ill, to the examination. He has new ideas like his brother, and after arriving in Beijing, in addition to taking care of Liang Qichao's recovery, he also helped his brother and participated in the New Deal. The two divided their work, Kang Youwei was responsible for major affairs, and he was responsible for the "trivial matters of chicken feathers", "really a 'Kennaisuke' general figure"!
The "Hundred Days Restoration" was blocked, and Kang Youwei left Beijing to the south at the behest of the Guangxu Emperor. The next day, Empress Dowager Cixi staged a coup d'état, the Guangxu Emperor was placed under house arrest, Liang Qichao hurriedly escaped, and Kang Guangren was arrested. Later, Tan Sitong, Kang Guangren and six others were beheaded at Caishikou, known in history as the "Six Gentlemen of Pengshu".
On the north side of the road is the huge Global Financial Information Center. According to the data, this building occupies the position of at least two guild halls, including the Huzhou Guild Hall. However, Mr. Hou Renzhi, a famous historical geographer, in the "Xuannan Historical Atlas", marked the point of the Huzhou Guild Hall on the north of Shangxiao Street Road, which is directly opposite the north entrance of Jinjing Hutong. Gao Shen believes that both claims may be correct, because the guild hall may have a possession outside the main site.
Taiyuan Guild Hall, Panyu Guild Hall
Witnessed a love story Gong Zizhen's former residence is still in the stage of retreat
Turning around and going west along Shangxiao Street, there is a sign hanging on the wall on the east side of the door number No. 42 on the south side of the road: Jinjing Hutong Modern Architecture. What exactly is a modern building? Gao Shen told everyone that this was the former site of the Taiyuan Guild Hall. Taiyuan Guild Hall was built in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, sitting north and facing south, with four courtyards, some of which are two-story small buildings, and the main entrance is opened in the south of the Chukuying Hutong. It is worth mentioning that during the Republic of China, a widely circulated love story was witnessed here. The protagonists of the story are Gao Junyu, a famous revolutionary during the Republic of China period, and The poet Shi Pingmei. Both of them were from Shanxi, and they first met in 1921 at the Shanxi Hometown Meeting held at the Taiyuan Guild Hall.
Moving on, a row of construction barriers appeared on the south side of the road, inside was a row of two-story buildings, the west side of the building has been repaired, installed with new wooden windows, and the east side is still under repair. Gao Shen told everyone that this was the Sichuan Guild Hall. Like the Taiyuan Guild Hall, the Sichuan Guild Hall also sits north to south, and the main entrance is also opened in the Chukuying Hutong, which covers an area larger than the Taiyuan Guild Hall, and the scale is definitely ranked among the Sichuan Guild Halls in the capital.
No. 50 Shangxiao Street is located on the south side of the hutong, and there is a small Wenbao sign on the wall at the door, which reads "Gong Zizhen's Former Residence". The courtyard door is very simple, but two iron doors are installed on the interstitial passage between adjacent houses, and a wooden strip is nailed above the door, covered with rain. The compound is in retreat, some residents have not yet moved, and the houses in the courtyard are dilapidated and messy.
Gong Zizhen was a famous poet and writer of the Qing Dynasty, and his poem "I advise the Heavenly Prince to shake it up and demote talents in an eclectic manner" is almost well known. Gong Zizhen was deeply educated, but he failed to pass the examination repeatedly, his official qualities were not high, he did not meet him in his lifetime, he was full of resentment and mavericks, and he was regarded as a "strange person" at that time.
Gao Shen said that Gong Zizhen had a "scandal" with Gu Taiqing, a talented woman of the Qing Dynasty. Gu Taiqing, a Manchurian with a blue flag, is known as "the first female lyricist of the Qing Dynasty", and the Manchurians talk about poetry, with the words "men have Naran character, and women have Gu Taiqing". She married Belle Yi to do the side of Fujin. Yi Yi was Qianlong's great-grandson, and his grandfather was Qianlong's favorite fifth son, Yongqi, but Yongqi died prematurely when he was 25 years old. Yi Yi and Gu Taiqing can both write poetry, the two have similar temperaments, and the husband sings with the woman, just like Zhao Mingcheng and Li Qingzhao. Later, yi yi died of illness, and Gu Taiqing still sang and sang harmony with the literati in the capital, including Gong Zizhen, just like when her husband was alive. A bored literati who had an old grudge with Gu Taiqing, out of revenge, connected Gong Zizhen's two poems to explain, creating a scandal between Gong Zizhen and Gu Taiqing. For a while, Gu Taiqing was expelled from the palace, and Gong Zizhen also left the capital.
The mansion on Shangxiao Street is said to have been sold to Pan Shicheng by Gong Zizhen and later donated by Pan Shicheng to the Panyu Hometown Association as a guild hall. Gao Shen briefly introduced the character of Pan Shicheng, as a well-known official and businessman in the late Qing Dynasty, Pan Shicheng was both good at ancient and foreign, and was not only a collector of antiques, calligraphy and paintings who knew the past and the present, but also undertook the military industry and assisted in foreign affairs. He has funded the development of his own mines and has imported cowpox from abroad.
Passing through the intersection of Guang'an Hutong and Shangxiao Street, not far from the south side of the road is the gate of Dongguan New Pavilion. The new Dongguan Pavilion was built in 1911-1918 as a late-established guild hall. According to legend, this place was once the residence of Nian Tangyao, a qing dynasty feudal lord.
Nian Qianyao was known as the "Nian General", but he initially "debuted" as a civilian minister. He was appointed inspector of Sichuan at the age of 21 and was appointed inspector of Sichuan before the age of 30. During his tenure, Tang Yao quelled civil unrest several times, gradually showed his military talents, was appreciated by the Kangxi Emperor, and gradually took over the military affairs of Sichuan, Tibet, Qinghai and other places. After Yongzheng ascended the throne, he controlled the military and political affairs in the northwest, and then for quelling the Rebellion of Lobzang Tenzin, he was made a first-class duke, which can be described as an extremely popular subject and unparalleled favor. However, Nian Qianyao's end was very tragic, he was proud of his pampering, and was stripped of his knighthood by Yongzheng and ordered to commit suicide.
According to the records, the entrance of the new museum in Dongguan is quite grand, the golden pillar gate, there is a drum stone pier in front of the door, the plaque of "Dongguan New Museum" is hung on the door, and there are eight shadow walls on both sides. The current courtyard door has long lost its former glory, but the figure eight shadow wall on both sides of the door is still there. This courtyard is also in retreat, Gao Shen has come several times before, the door is closed, at this moment it is rare to open the door, everyone will go in to find out.
Stepping into the courtyard door, there are two large trees on the left and one on the right, the road in the courtyard is wide, the houses are also very regular, from the tiles that appear from time to time on the ground, the green bricks and white interior walls that appear indirectly on the walls, it can be seen that many self-built houses have been demolished, and the whole courtyard is open and quiet. During the exploration, a grandmother dressed in red who claimed to be a resident of the hospital came to him. She told everyone that most of the residents of the courtyard had moved away, and that one family surnamed Pi was the descendant of Nian Tangyao's servants. Gao Shen believed that if this was really Nian Qianyao's mansion, it must be more than this one courtyard, and he had heard from nearby residents before that this place was within the scope of the Nian Mansion all the way east to the Panyu Guild Hall.
Lower Diagonal Street
Does the name "Reform Hutong" have the feeling of "when the rule of law is in progress"?
Go up the slope street to the tight west head, and turn south to the lower slope street. Compared with Shangxian Street, this alley is more secluded, and the sidewalks on both sides of the road are shaded and cover the entire road surface. There is a black fence gate on the west side of the road, and an antique plaque hangs above it - "Sanjin Hotel". Gao Shen told everyone that a hundred years ago this was the Sanjin Guild Hall, also known as the Yunshan Villa. Shanxi can be roughly divided into Northern Jin, Central Jin, and Southern Jin, so the "Three Jins" is also another name for Shanxi. Peng Zhen, Gao Junyu and other Shanxi revolutionaries often came here in the early days to carry out revolutionary activities.
The Sanjin Guild Hall was built during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty and was built by Shanxi merchants. At that time, the front part of the guild hall was a regular courtyard, and there was a tall building in the back, which was in the shape of a boat as a whole, and it was said that standing on the upper floor could look at the West Mountain, perhaps this is the origin of the word "Yun Shan" in the villa of the guild hall.
Along the lower slope street to the south, there is an east-west alley on the west side of the road, called The Correctional Alley. Gao Shen joked that the name had a "time when the rule of law is in progress".
In the early years of the Republic of China, the location from the Sanjin Guild Hall to the Penitentiary Hutong was a large wasteland, which was used as a place of execution during the Beiyang warlords under Yuan Shikai. Gao Shen incidentally told everyone about the process of changing the location of the execution ground: the Yuan Dynasty was on the north side of the Intersection of Kuanjie Road, the Ming Dynasty was on the north side of the Intersection of Xisi Road, the Qing Dynasty was at Caishikou, the Republic of China period was outside the altar wall of the Xiannongtan Altar (that is, the Tianqiao area), and finally the Lugou Bridge.
The area of Penitentiary Hutong was not used as a execution ground for a long time, but from the old map of Peiping, it was still very empty in 1947.
No. 40 Xia Xie Street is the Qifu Campus of Beijing No. 14 Middle School, which is the former site of the Zhili Guild Hall. The term "Kifu" has two interpretations: one refers to the area around the capital, and the other is another name for the province directly under the Qing Dynasty. The second interpretation is used here. Zhang Zhidong, a famous minister of the late Qing Dynasty and a representative of the Western affairs school, was directly subordinate to Nanpi, and he built the Ancestral Ancestral Shrine here. In addition to the campus of the Fourteenth Middle School located in the former site of the Kifu Ancestral Temple, its predecessor kifu academy was also founded by Zhang Zhidong.
According to Gao Shen, it is said that only an old brick is left on the original site of the guild hall, which is engraved with the floor plan of the guild hall, and how to do it is to be examined. In addition, the Hall of Immortality in the guild hall was relocated to Gimhae Lake Park in the 1980s, so interested friends can visit it.
When we arrive at Changchun Temple, the lower slope street is about to come to an end. Changchun Temple was built in the Ming Dynasty, ordered by Empress Li, the mother of the Wanli Emperor, who gave the title of "Changchun", which means wishing her mother health and longevity. In the Ming Dynasty, Changchun Temple, because of its royal protection, was grand in scale and flourished in incense, and was the "first stop of the Beijing Division".
Recently, The Temple has been closed and is not allowed to enter. The mountain gate of the temple sits on the west and faces the east, according to reports, the temple has a front hall, a main hall and a rear cover building, although it has been rebuilt, but the original building is basically complete. In its southwest direction, where Xuanwu Hospital is now located to the street garden, there used to be a Zhejiang Temple, which was often used as a coffin resting place by Zhejiang travelers in Beijing. "But the most famous person who stopped here is not from Zhejiang, but from Leting, Hebei." Hearing Gao Shen say this, some members immediately reacted: "Li Dazhao! On April 28, 1927, Li Dazhao was killed, and the coffin was suspended at Changchun Temple, and three days later it was rescheduled at Zhejiang Temple, where it was suspended for six years, until 1933, when it was buried in Wan'an Cemetery.
When the Municipal Road of Changchun Street was built in 2002, a triangular area between the old and new roads, including Changchun Temple, was preserved, but the building part was retained to Changchun Temple, with the south side as a leisure square and the west side as a newly opened road. Gao Shen introduced that there was also the Quanzhe Guild Hall and the Land Temple near the original Zhejiang Temple. On the third, thirteenth and twenty-third day of the first lunar month, the Land Temple has a temple fair, which is one of the four major temple fairs in old Beijing. Now, none of these sites have been traced. Text/Reporter Chen Feng