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At this year's Tokyo Olympic Games and the 14th National Games, the rise of post-00s athletes has become a new force in Chinese sports.
Many of these post-00s have entered the sports school since childhood, but some of the post-00s are "halfway out of the house", directly from an ordinary student into the National Games, such as the three Zhejiang youngsters who participated in the rock climbing project of the National Games. They come from an anji county no. 2 junior high school, the same middle school in Anji, and rock climbing has opened the door to a new world for them, giving them the opportunity to show themselves on the field of the National Games at a young age.
Sun Luning
The little girl's hands were full of calluses, but she refused to easily retreat
The three climbers are Feng Xinrui and Sun Luning, who participated in the women's all-around in the youth group, who are 15 years old, and Huang Jinbin, who participated in the men's adult group, who is 16 years old. In fact, these three children not only come from the same school, they are exposed to rock climbing, and the reason is the same.
Feng Xinrui's father, Feng Hui, was the founder of the first indoor climbing hall in Huzhou and brought out several youth climbing champions, feng Xinrui was both his daughter and his student. Feng Xinrui and rock climbing are naturally heard from the family. Now, Feng Hui is also cooperating with Anji Er, not only opening daily climbing courses, but also forming a climbing team for Huzhou to participate in the Provincial Games and training children of different ages. "This new climbing museum has been built for more than a year, and there are more than 30 children participating in daily training."
Feng Hui still remembers the scene when Feng Xinrui first came into contact with rock climbing in the first grade of primary school, "Because it was a girl, she originally wanted to let her learn a guzheng or something, but she couldn't calm down and refused to learn, usually when she saw us going out to play rock climbing, she felt fun and wanted to learn." I told her that learning this is very hard, you have to stick to it, she agreed, and she has insisted on it until now. ”
Feng Xinrui
As classmates in the same school, Huang Jinbin and Sun Luning like rock climbing are naturally inseparable from the influence of Feng Hui's father and daughter. The three children were all about seven or eight years old when they began to contact rock climbing and went all the way to the present.
However, their respective love reasons are different, as a boy, Huang Jinbin feels that "it looks cool and the action is very handsome." Sun Luning said that after practicing rock climbing, his body is better, "it is not easy to catch a cold, and you can eat more." ”
Huang Jinbin
Feng Xinrui, on the other hand, likes the thrill of her heart beating faster when climbing to a high place and looking down, and feels that it is "very fun". She has always been a bold child, other girls of the same age may be playing with dolls, she began to climb under the influence of her father, years of practice, Feng Xinrui's delicate hands have long been hard calluses, Feng Hui is very distressed, but seeing her daughter achieve such good results at a young age, she is very proud.
Feng Hui is currently mentoring students in training
Rock climbing and selection of seedlings should pay attention to rock sense is a real full-body exercise
After several years of training, the level of these three climbing youngsters has become higher and higher, not only achieving good results in amateur competitions, but also attracting the attention of professional team coaches.
Zhejiang Province began to form a climbing team to participate in the national competition in 2018, and the coach who is the coach is not small, Zhong Qixin, the leader of the Chinese climbing delegation and the champion who broke the world record of speed climbing five times, has been in the climbing world for 16 years. This time, in addition to leading the team to participate in the rock climbing competition of the National Games, he also participated as a player.
Zhong Qixin still remembered that at that time, several young generals from Anji were selected into the provincial team. "At that time, we selected seedlings in the province, and we knew the situation of Feng Hui's climbing gym, and Anji's school also attached great importance to this aspect, so we selected several children to participate in our climbing training in Ningbo."
Zhong Qixin told reporters that the climbing project is more special, because it has just been selected for the Olympic Games and the National Games, which is an emerging project, but in fact, because of the trend and fashion of this project, it has long become popular in the folk, so when the climbing team was formed, it not only locked its eyes on the children of the sports school, but also looked for it in the folk club. And the selection of climbing seedlings, Zhong Qixin also has a set of views. "Just as swimmers have a sense of water, climbers pay attention to the rock sensation on the rock wall."
In addition, he also introduced that rock climbing is used in all parts of the body such as hands and feet, waist, etc., "It is a whole body exercise, so coordination is also very important." ”
During the training period, although their training time was much longer than when they were in school before, they still maintained the rhythm of daytime training and evening learning, so that they would not leave the culture class too much behind during the training. On the other hand, training with professional teams, "with the guidance of professional coaches, physical training and other aspects will be more systematic, and it will help greatly improve performance." ”
【Zhejiang News+】
How do newcomers get started with rock climbing?
If you want to try this sport, it is recommended to go to the climbing gym and start with indoor rock climbing.
Entry-level indoor climbing is usually divided into bouldering and top rope climbing.
Bouldering
In bouldering, no ropes or slings are used. Rock climbing usually relies on cushions (thick pads) to provide protection when climbers fall, rather than relying on ropes for protection. In addition, the route usually does not exceed 20 feet high. Having a partner who provides some protection when you climb and fall is ideal.
Top rope climbing
The climb is protected by ropes anchored from above, and climbers are artificially protected from the ground. Because protectors are able to prevent climbers from falling sharply, top ropes are generally considered to be less demanding than other types of climbing. As such, probably the most popular type of indoor rock climbing.
Where to go for rock climbing in Hangzhou? (Partial)
Hangzhou University Town North Sports and Fitness Center
The climbing hall in the fitness center is the largest and highest climbing hall in Hangzhou, with a net height of 24 meters, and there are climbing walls for people to climb on both sides of the southwest and high-permeable glass curtain walls on the northeast side, which can be viewed from various indoor and outdoor areas such as the shared platform.
ROCK ON Climbing Riverside Pavilion
The first rock climbing venue in Binjiang District, Hangzhou, is located in the Binjiang Zhihui Zhongruifite Sports Center.
Stubborn Climbing Rock Climbing Hall West Lake Cultural and Sports Center Pavilion
The rock wall of the West Lake Cultural and Sports Center Museum is 12 meters high and 28 meters wide, and the bouldering area is 40 meters wide and 4.8 meters high. Designed by well-known domestic climbing designers, all facilities in the venue are in line with UIAA and CE certification.
(The original title is "Why more and more young people like to play rock climbing, look at anji these three middle school students to know", edited by He Shuangling)