<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Highway Maintenance Network correspondent Jiangxi Fengyi Highway Branch Guo Yimin</h1>
In the early 1990s, I interned in Ganzhou, and those flavorful Gannan dishes still make me unforgettable.
Ganzhou, as the cradle of the Hakka people, has its own unique views on food, such as those famous such as four-star moongazing, three cups of chicken, small fried fish, braised fish cake, Xinfeng radish dumplings and other distinctive Hakka cuisine, almost everyone who comes to Ganzhou to play must order.
Hakka cuisine is roughly divided into staple foods, large dishes, small dishes, snacks and so on. In addition to the traditional pattern of rice and porridge, all kinds of rice products and sweet potatoes, taro products are colorful, such as dried powder, hot skin, Shahe flour, etc. Almost every household will do, hospitality or self-food, housewives can be brought to the table in a short time. Large dishes usually refer to hot stir-fried dishes and Hakka specialties, such as small stir-fried fish, braised dog meat, crispy duck, three cups of chicken, stuffed tofu, taro button meat, fish cakes, fish balls, butterfly fish dumplings, loach tofu pot, etc., with a rich taste. Gannan small stir-fry refers to the flavor of small dishes from the farmhouse mountains, sour, sweet, bitter and spicy, original taste, elegant frangipani, endless charm, is an indispensable flavor in the Hakka diet, such as taro, mold beans, salt egg tofu, nasal vegetables, vinegar fruits, wine-stuffed peppers and so on. Gannan snacks refer to Hakka-style snacks, such as Amy dumplings, taro buns, potato buns, spoon rice dumplings, soup powder, radish dumplings, fried Lantern, Wajiaoding, Zhuangyuan red, Wangzi soup and other traditional dim sum, a wide variety of varieties, delicious taste, strong local flavor, has always been loved by people.
Gannan people are good at inheriting food, inheriting the food culture cultivation of the Central Plains, absorbing the essence of the food culture of the indigenous ethnic groups such as She, Yao and Miao in Baiyue and later, inheriting a lot of ancient methods for preserving raw materials, such as vinegar and fruit, sausages, plate duck and other wax, pickles, poured vegetables and other slugs, winter powder grits (sound scatter), lees fish and other bad, drawing on the Hakka food flavor of Fujian, Guangdong and Taiwan, after more than a thousand years, inheriting, borrowing, innovating a set of cooking systems from ingredients, cooking methods to flavor characteristics.
In the cooking method, maintain the original taste and refine and sublimate, pay attention to the sizing, pay attention to the juice is thick and bright, require "the dish is finished with the soup", let the fresh aroma and spices of the raw materials themselves penetrate each other, integrate into one, remove the peculiar smell, highlight the umami taste, in order to achieve the purpose of strong fragrance. The dishes pay attention to the "five tastes and six flavors" to match each other, forming a flavor characteristic with salty and spicy as the main taste, the main ingredients are prominent, pay attention to the original taste, salty and fresh, spicy, and the juice is thick and bright. Gannan Hakka cuisine to maintain the original taste as a starting point, pay attention to the refinement and sublimation of folk dishes, steaming, frying, stewing, stewing, roasting is more elaborate, especially "cooked vegetables", the animal raw materials are arranged into a mushroom shape (Gannan Hakka chef is called Maozi), add an appropriate amount of accessories and condiments to stir into the flavor, the use of brewing, rolling, bun and other methods of forming, with steaming, frying, frying, frying, burning and other techniques, its representative dishes have brewing categories: stuffed tofu, stuffed meat skin, stuffed green peppers, etc.; there is also "small stir-frying", sliding stir-frying with small wine (vinegar) as a seasoning, Its representative dish is small stir-fried fish; "tamales", the excellent stir-fried to slightly yellow rice rolled into powder, potatoes, melon beans, livestock and aquatic products wrapped in lotus leaves or steamed with lotus leaves in the bamboo cage drawer, the pastoral flavor is strong, its representative dishes are four stars looking at the moon, poached gizzard and so on.
He is very wise in terms of feeding, and all the creatures that can be fed into the food, whether it is snakes, scorpions, insects, rats, or mushrooms, fruits and vegetables, are the raw materials for chefs to cook. It also pays more attention to food health, and the selection of materials pays attention to freshness, the material of spring to remove dampness, the material of coolness in summer, the material of moisturizing in autumn, and the material of temperature supplement in winter. Folk have Qingming eat Amy buns, Lixia eats steamed buns, Chongyang eats potato buns and other food customs. In particular, pay attention to the humanistic connotation of dishes, pay attention to the organic connection between material and spiritual and harmonious beauty, such as stuffed tofu contains the Hakka Sizu plot, Gannan small fried fish reflects the Ming Dynasty philosopher Wang Yangming's preference for Hakka cuisine and the Hakka's innovative concept, fried Dongpo means that people should be moderate and just right, And The Yuan cuisine is sent to the world to be diligent and studious, dare to fight to win, Wenshan chicken Ding teaches people to love the country, love the nation, respect national heroes, etc., which has been passed down for thousands of years, and the cultural significance is very far-reaching.
Remembering the delicacies I had eaten, it seemed to be right in front of me, and I couldn't help but swallow a few mouthfuls.
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