Xiao Chunlei
Scientific name: Harpodonnehereus
Common names: siren, cotton fish, fish set fish, fish fish, tofu fish, dragon head salmon, oil drum, etc.
Marine fish is probably the most complicated thing in the world, and there are many fish in one fish, or multiple fish with the same name, which makes people confused. In the Ming Dynasty, Tu Benyi wrote a book "The WrongNess of the Sea in Fujian", introducing Fujian seafood, and the split head said: "The many Mo ruo fish of the Fu Shui tribe, and the difference in name is also Mo Ruo fish." "I sympathize. At least when I read the book, I was confused and desolate. Looking for a few familiar seafood, such as the Xiamen people say that the silk ding (or sidi), found that there is no such name. The scientific name of the stinge is the dragon head fish, which belongs to the genus of dragon head fish in the family Dogfish. It's no use knowing that. I went to the Republic of China edition of "Xiamen City Chronicles and Property Chronicles", and the simplicity of the narrative surprised me, and I still had nothing to gain.
The sissel is a very common small fish, many years ago I first ate it in Xiamen, and found this fish very peculiar: the first is fine skin and tender flesh, no scales; the second is soft and boneless, melting in the mouth; the third is sharp teeth, a murderous wide mouth larger than the head - hence the name dragon head fish. Many people eat fish and are afraid of mangling, and they always feel that every fish bone has a hidden killing machine, and they are frightened. The silkfish is an exception, the small spines are as fine as hair, there is no threat to people, at most it is a little uncomfortable to stick to the throat, and the only spine is transparent and soft, as if it is a humble and bent bone, at least after death, it is not fierce at all. Asked its name, friends called it tofu fish, snot fish, very vivid.
At the end of the last century, I was working in Fuzhou and went to the market to buy vegetables, and I learned that silk dice were the cheapest fish, only two yuan per kilogram. I don't pick up the fish, but I do handle the silk fish, grab its head, twist its neck, pull out the head and the internal organs, and throw it. Its teeth are very sharp, like a fish, and it can hurt people after death. It is very easy to boil, boil in soy sauce, or add some squeezed vegetables to make soup, and it will rot when it is in the pot. During that time, I ate silk dice every day and ate it until I was sick to my stomach, and then I returned to my hometown in the mountains, and after a few years without silk dingfish, my psychology was adjusted.
On the Internet, someone posted a photo of a silkfish asking for a name, and the answer was various. In addition to tofu fish, snot fish, and silk fish, there are different names in various places, Guangzhou people call it nine-belly fish, dog spit fish, Chaoshan people say temple fish, black tooth tenant, Wenzhou people say they are called water babbling - I suspect that the word "gurgling" is written wrong, it should be "fish" word. Feng Shi, a Man of Songjiang Huating in the Ming Dynasty, called the silk dingyu a fish in the "Miscellaneous Records of Rain Voyage", saying that it was "as soft as a paste, boneless scales, and a wide mouth and many teeth", and also said that "the weak people in the sea are known as fish". It can be seen that although the silkfish is full of sharp teeth, in the eyes of the fishermen, there is no strong muscle on the body, and it is a weak person.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Fuzhou scholar Guo Baicang wrote "One Hundred and One Records of Sea Mistakes", which recorded that the seafood in his hometown was extremely detailed, and I carefully checked it and finally made some gains. It turned out that he called the dragon head fish a fish dingyu - I couldn't find this strange word when I flipped through the "Etymology". According to this name, I went back to Tu Benyi's "Minzhonghai Mistakes" and harvested 9 words: "No skin, no scales." Lingnan is called cotton fish. "The silkfish does have no scales, but the skin should be there, just very shallow, like water tofu, chopsticks slightly forced, it is broken uncontrollably." In addition to the cotton fish, Guangdong also calls it the dragon pine fish, "Xiangshan County Rural Chronicle" said: "The dragon pine fish is also known as the dragon head fish, the huge mouth has teeth, the bone is soft and crisp, the soup is white as milk, smooth as fat." ”
The silk-dick meat is beeping, the whole body is full of water, and there is always a feeling of emptiness in the mouth when it bites down, like eating marshmallows. Nie Huang called it "the one formed by the foam of water" in the "Sea Fault Map". I think it's very vivid. It is like a dragon-shaped bubble born of the sea.
Guo Baicang said that fuzhou people call the dragon head fish oil barrel, "the sea fish under the product, the eater shame." Pickle city a dozen articles per pound, the poor sleeves return." After reading this passage, I exclaimed with shame. I knew that the silkfish was lowly, but I did not expect that it had reached the point of "shame on the eater", and even the poor people had to sneak in the sleeves of their sleeves when they bought them. Think of yourself as shameless, swinging and eating this cheap fish for many years. But I am still a little confused, is it possible that the living standard of a poor person in the late Qing Dynasty is higher than mine? If the times do not progress, it will be regressed?
Dragonhead fish is a warm-water middle-to-lower fish distributed in the northern Indian Ocean and the western coast of the Pacific Ocean, including the South China Sea, the East China Sea and the Yellow Sea coastal estuarine sea area. It has a fierce temperament and eats all kinds of small fish and shrimp, but its swimming ability is very weak. No one will take the dragon head fish as the main catcher, but in the nearshore activities, with the tide, it is inevitable to fall into the ubiquitous fixed net, becoming human food. The "Xiamen City Chronicle" of the Republic of China does not remember the silk fish, and it is also thought that because it is the food of the untouchables, it is ashamed of the shape of the pen. But now few people read ancient books. Xiamen's soy sauce water sorbet, or fried sorbet, is soft and delicious, and is very popular with diners. Seafood is depleted, and now even if it is a gorgeous bubble in the sea, as long as it has ever had life, it is cherished.