The ancient saying cloud, persimmon has seven virtues: one more life, two more yin, three no bird's nest, four no insect beetles, five frost leaves can be played, six jiashi, seven fallen leaves are fat, can be booked.
Persimmons, either round or square, when ripe, are very beautiful when they are red and yellow and hanging on the branches. Because of its harmony with "things" and "world", it has been regarded as an auspicious fruit since ancient times, full of people's good wishes. In China, which has more than 3,000 years of persimmon cultivation and millennia of processing history, persimmons occupy an important position in the dietary life of the Chinese people.
People often use the harmonic sound of the word "persimmon" to express good wishes, the picture shows the "all the best" box © The Palace Museum
So, how do persimmons taste different from place to place? What are the characteristics of various snacks made from persimmons? From ancient times to the present, what interesting things happened between Chinese and persimmons?
China incomplete persimmon map © Chinese style
"Flavor of China, real "persimmon" not to be missed"
Tasted over Hualin Fangti, color and Yangjing Shen Zhu, light and even wax wrapped in crisp, no more than the nectar of the world. ——Northern Song Dynasty Zhang Zhongshu, "Xi Jiang Yue Wei Hua Lin Fangdi"
When the persimmon fruit ripens, the frost is almost here. "Frost falls to eat persimmons, will not run a nose"; "Frost descends to pick persimmons, and beat soft dates in winter"; "Frost does not pick persimmons, hard persimmons become soft persimmons"... According to the Ming Dynasty Zhao Shanzheng's "Bin Retreat" (volume 1), this custom is related to Zhu Yuanzhang, who is said to have been named "Ling Frost Marquis" by Zhu Yuanzhang.
In fact, as the last autumn festival in the twenty-four solar terms, after entering the frost, the temperature in most parts of China plummeted, the temperature difference between day and night was large, the body was prone to discomfort, and food therapy and health care attracted much attention. Persimmons as seasonal fruits not only have thin skin and delicious taste, but also have the effect of moisturizing the lungs, strengthening the spleen and nourishing the stomach, so there are customs of eating persimmons in many places.
Ripe persimmons © figure worm creativity
According to the statistics of the National Persimmon Resources Survey, there are a total of 1058 persimmon varieties in China, which are planted in most provinces and regions except for the cold areas such as northern Heilongjiang, Jilin, Inner Mongolia and Xinjiang. Guangxi, Hebei, Henan and Shaanxi are the four main persimmon producing areas, accounting for about half of the country's output.
Persimmon species are classified differently according to different criteria. According to the taste of persimmon fruit, it can be divided into two categories: sweet persimmon and astringent persimmon; according to the color of persimmon fruit, it can be divided into red persimmon, green persimmon, yellow persimmon, vermilion persimmon, white persimmon and black persimmon; according to the shape of persimmon fruit, it can be divided into round persimmon, square persimmon, long persimmon, gourd persimmon and cow heart persimmon.... Although they can all be called persimmons, persimmons in different regions have their own unique flavors, such as the red and translucent, plump and juicy Lintong fire crystal persimmons; the Fangshan millstone persimmons that resemble a millstone and have a large and thin skin; and the Hangzhou square persimmon with a square, sweet but not greasy top.
Puzhou black persimmon © network
"The stars are shining, and the sun is hanging in the evening." Ben was left behind and turned over to protect himself. "Tang Dynasty poet Liu Yuxi's "Wing Red Persimmon" vividly writes the characteristics of fire crystal persimmons. Although the fire crystal persimmon is small, the skin is as thin as paper, it is easy to peel off, and it is silkless and seedless, plump and juicy, and even the juice in the persimmon fruit can be directly sucked out with a straw.
Fire crystal persimmon © figure worm creative
Unlike the small fire crystal persimmon, the "millstone persimmon" in addition to the shape of the millstone, another intuitive feature from the appearance is "large". The average single fruit weight of the large and thin-skinned persimmon is about 230 grams, the maximum can reach about 500 grams, and the diameter is up to 7 cm. The hard persimmons after deastringency are crisp and sweet; the soft persimmons are sweet as honey, easy to store and transport, and can be stored properly until February and March of the following year.
Mill persimmon © figure worm creative
Although the Hangzhou persimmon is also larger, the top is square, the taste is sweet but not greasy, and this persimmon is deeply favored by the scribes. Zhang Dai's "Tao'an Dream Memory Luyuan Temple Fang Persimmon" says: "Xiaoshan square persimmon, the skin is not good, the skin is red and the flesh is rotten, and the head of the tree will be red and brittle as a lotus, and the party is called a perfect product." "It seems that tasting fresh persimmons has been a hobby of people since ancient times.
Qi Baishi painted a blue square persimmon © network
Sweet persimmons are tempting to taste, but not all persimmons are as naturally astringent as luotian sweet persimmons, so it is particularly important to "de-astringent" persimmons. Zhang Dai is not only a master of persimmon tasting, but also has a unique insight into persimmon "deastringency": "The natives decoct the soup with mulberry leaves, wait for cold, add a little salt, enter the urn, soak the persimmon and lose their necks, take food every two nights, and the fresh lei is abnormal." The rest of the food Xiaoshan persimmon is astringent, please give this method. "Today, when we encounter astringent persimmons, we may wish to put the persimmon fruit in a container, inject warm water to submerge the persimmon fruit, so that the water temperature is maintained at about 40 °C, and it can be deastringent after 10 to 24 hours.
"Delicious Inspiration for Persimmons"
Unlike many fruits that are only suitable for fresh food, delicious snacks made from persimmons are also the choice of people's meals. Among all kinds of foods related to persimmons, the most popular one is the persimmon cake. There are two kinds of persimmon cakes, white persimmons and black persimmons, and the production methods are mostly to take ripe persimmons, peel off the skin, and be made in the sun for many days, but the persimmon cake making techniques in different places are also different. For example, Henan Xingyang places persimmon cakes flat on a cool mat to dry, while Shaanxi Fuping hangs persimmon cakes on ropes for drying, and the shape of the molded persimmon cakes is different depending on the drying method.
Wheel-shaped persimmon cake © in the drying of the figure worm creative
Shaanxi Fuping, known as the "hometown of Chinese persimmons", not only owns China's national geographical indication product , Fuping persimmon cake, but also has a long history of persimmon cake processing, which was presented to the emperor as a tribute as early as the Ming Dynasty. The technique of making Persimmon Cake in Fuping was also included in the List of Shaanxi Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013.
Fuping persimmon cake is made from the locally produced famous persimmon variety "Fuping Pointed Persimmon", which is finely made by cleaning and peeling, sun pressing, kneading and shaping, and shaping and shaping. In the process of making, the peeled persimmons are hung one by one on the thin hemp rope hanging on the shelf in the form of "hanging persimmon cakes", so that the Tomihira persimmon cake is different from the flat persimmon cake on the market, but is round and full, gyroscopic. The persimmon cake hanging on the shelf looks like a yellow beaded curtain, smells fragrant, and the food is soft and sticky and sweet, and melts in the mouth.
Persimmons made by "hanging persimmon © cakes" are creative
In the process of making persimmon cake, a layer of white powder cream will be generated on the surface, that is, persimmon cream, persimmon cream has the effect of moisturizing the lungs, coughing, and eating, and the persimmon cream is collected for processing, which can be made into persimmon frost sugar. Henan Xingyang has this specialty, the taste is cool and sweet, food and medicine, its production skills belong to the intangible cultural heritage of Henan Province, it is said that it has also been affirmed by Mr. Lu Xun.
Mr. Lu Xun once wrote in the "Diary of a Horse": "In the afternoon, Zhifang came from Henan, talked a few words, hurriedly left, put down two bags, and said that this was a 'sugar cube'... When I open the bag, it is 'square', but it is a small round piece, yellow-brown. It's cold and delicate to eat, and it's a good thing... Jing Song said that this is a famous product of somewhere in Henan, which is made of persimmon cream; it is cool, and if there are some small sores on the corners of the mouth, it will be good to use this rubbing. No wonder there is such a delicacy, it turned out to be based on the clever hand of creation, filtered with persimmon skin. ”
Persimmon Sugar © "Memory of the Times"
Frozen persimmons, commonly known as "drinking honey" in old Beijing, are a delicacy that people do not want to miss in winter. The raw material for making frozen persimmons must be Beijing's own "milling persimmons", which were royal tributes during the Ming Dynasty and are now also selected as national geographical indication products. The persimmons are large and generous, and when they ripen in the autumn, the straight persimmons are picked to become soft and sticky, and then they are moved to a cooler place, and the persimmons are really frozen as the temperature drops.
When Chinese New Year's Eve eat frozen persimmons, first use cold water to "pluck it", and when the persimmons become soft, first clean the soft and juiced flesh of the frozen persimmons, and then eat the persimmon skin. Sweet with a hint of cold, the taste is unforgettable, no wonder Mr. Lin Yutang still has to chant when he lives in the United States: "Whether day or night, you will hear the vendors shouting and selling sweet and sweet frozen persimmons..."
Frozen persimmon © network
In fact, not only Mr. Lu Xun and Mr. Lin Yutang, but also the cute red persimmons have been the object of people's concern since ancient times. If its sweet and honeyy taste is the reason why it is loved, it is undeniable that its "beauty" and "connotation" must also play a role in "fueling the waves". How many people can bear not to be attracted to the enthusiastic persimmon in the autumn scene?
"The noisy little persimmon on the branches, whose feelings are touched?"
When autumn comes, the trees are full of red persimmon fruits, and even in the autumn of depression, people are warm. In the lively residential areas and quiet corners of the park, even if there is no colorful spring color in the garden, the appearance of persimmons will definitely break the monotony and tedium of autumn.
For the talented poet, no matter what feelings to be expressed, the chanting persimmon will not appear to be contrary. "Persimmon leaves turn red frost scenery in autumn, blue sky like water leaning on the red building", Li Yi, who is looking for friends and can't help but look up, the red and dazzling persimmon forest comes into view, even if there is no friend to accompany, the poet must be worth the trip. "Sand gull trail to the fish full, wild birds call persimmon red", lonely wandering journey, persimmons bring the wanderers a rare color. "The village is dark and mulberry branches, the forest is red and persimmons are flourishing", the night is lonely, and the persimmons are a beautiful scenery on the way out.
The raucous persimmons on the branches © are creative
Also deeply rooted in persimmons is Mr. Lao She. "For material things, I love Beiping's flowers and vegetables, more fruits and more... The sand fruits and begonias of the West Mountain, the black dates and persimmons of the North Mountain, enter the city with a layer of white frost..." ("Thinking of Beiping") In the years of war and chaos, Mr. Lao She, who was in a different place, had an inseparable longing for his hometown, and this thought was poured into the grass and trees, flowers and fruits of Beiping, and "persimmon" was one of them. In the spring of 1953, Mr. Lao She personally planted two persimmon trees in the yard, the ripe persimmon oranges were lovely, lining the courtyard with joy, Mr. Lao She called this residence "Dan Persimmon Courtyard", and his wife's studio was called "Double Persimmon Zhai".
"Dan Persimmon Courtyard" (Lao She Memorial Hall) Persimmon Tree © full of fruit "Lao She Memorial Hall"
According to Shu Ji, the daughter of Lao She, "When the persimmon tree was planted, it was only the thickness of the thumb, and in less than 10 years, the diameter of the trunk had exceeded that of the sea bowl." In the spring, when the persimmon blossoms, thousands of bees are attracted, and the whole courtyard is buzzing, as heavy as a bomber. The autumn is full of trees and fruit, which is spectacular. "When the persimmons are ripe, Mr. Lao She will distribute the picked persimmons to relatives and friends, and the poet Zang Kejia has received persimmons from Mr. Lao She, but he is reluctant to eat them and has been offering the persimmons on the desk.
In the days when the branches do not see persimmons, persimmons are still everywhere in life, because of the cute image and the beautiful meaning, in short, people really prefer it.
Qing Dynasty Wenzhu gold lacquer persimmon-style box © Palace Museum
Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting, is known as "Mr. Persimmon Garden", and there are at least 33 works about persimmons in his lifetime. "Good Persimmon into Pairs", "Persimmon Ruyi", "Everything is Safe", "Everything is Smooth", even if you don't look at the original painting and only listen to the name, you can know that these paintings are full of the painter's good wishes. Unlike the rounded persimmon that most people prefer, Qi Baishi's many works on persimmons appear in blue-gray square persimmons. Taking "Six Persimmons" as an example, the six blue square persimmons placed in the basket have a very rustic hue, and they are full of the meaning of life in the natural and innocent atmosphere.
Qi Baishi composed the "Six Persimmon Diagram" © network
Persimmon-shaped boxes, bonsai and paintings full of "persimmons", persimmon decorations of jade ruyi, purses, clothes, headdresses, yantais... The ancients "worked hard" to reflect their ingenuity in all aspects of life, and even the emperor was "not exempt from vulgarity". The Chenghua Emperor once wrote "The Scroll of the Good Omens of the Year Dynasty", in which Zhong Kui holds a ruyi, and the tray in the hands of the little devil is full of persimmons and cypress branches, implying "Pepsi Ruyi". The Qianlong Emperor personally copied the predecessor's "Spring Kettle as Intended", in which lilies, dan persimmons, and ruyi were staggered, and also took a good omen of "Pepsi Ruyi".
Red begonia-style pot persimmon bonsai © Palace Museum
It's the ripening season again, so you can't wait to taste the persimmons. So, what problems to pay attention to when choosing persimmons, we have prepared "practical tips" for your reference.
Practical tip: How to choose persimmons
1. Look at the color
Persimmons with a uniform orange-red skin indicate that the ripeness is sufficient, because persimmons do not turn red after a long time, but only soften. The representative of the yellowing and shrinking leaves has been laid out for several days, so choose the leaf emerald green with moisture.
2. Look at the appearance
The epidermal cream is mostly a symbol of sweet persimmons, and if there are cracks in the outside, especially the bottom, it is easy to be infected with bacteria or insects.
Fresh persimmon © covered with fruit cream is a creative idea
3. Sweep the weight
Persimmons of the same size, the heavier the quality, because fresh persimmons are full of water and sugar, so they are heavier.
This issue discusses: Which persimmon foods have you tasted this year, come and share with us the consumption report!
bibliography:
[1] Wang Jiating, "Rickety Persimmons," Guangming Daily, January 4, 2019.
[2] Liu Tao, Zhu Wei, Li Chunmei, "The Current Situation and Countermeasures of China's Persimmon Processing Industry", Food Industry Science and Technology, No. 24, 2016.
Wen 丨 Chen Manfei
Picture editor 丨 Little Tiger
Seal picture 丨 Figure worm creative
This article is original by Huaxia Fengwu, unauthorized, please do not reprint