It is said that the Concept of North and South of Guangdong people is that "the north of Guangdong is the north", so in Shenzhen, which is south of the south, the original season sensor in the body is not very sensitive.
The four seasons are mixed, the plants are evergreen, the beauty is beautiful, and it is boring to watch for a long time. This feeling is especially vivid in spring, if you can see a lot of greenery and flowers in winter, then what is spring? I will also miss a season when the four seasons are distinct, and the grass and trees have grown since the sting, and I can feel the vitality of the earth from the bright green in front of my eyes.
It's not enough to be bright, but at this time, the lips and tongue are blessed, those strange edible flowers, the buds that have just emerged, the roots of plants that look brittle and raw... The spring breeze blew green on the south bank of the river, and also let the greenery climb onto the table.
Wild vegetables wild vegetables, especially highlighting a "wild" word. Even if the material abundance is unprecedented now, and the discipline of human beings for the animals and plants of nature has reached such a level, these green plants that look like soil are still uninhibited, from ancient times to the present, this tender sweetness can only be tasted in the spring.
Today we will taste, this taste of ancient and modern.
Screenshot of "Little Forest, Winter and Spring"
First plate: Cabbage
The first warm wind blew through, and the cabbage took the lead first.
This name is like the title given by the emperor to the concubines, and the meaning is very appropriate. The "荠" of the cabbage is "Qi", Qi, Jiye, because it can feed the stomach during famine, stop bleeding when wounded in battle, and have complete functions, so it is named here.
Although it is widely distributed, it is different in different places and the taste is also different. In the cold wind of the northland, the cabbage grows into a strong and thin hand, and the entrance is woody and dry, which is very exercised. But in the south, it is different, the water is spiritually perfumed, so delicious that the "Book of Poetry" boasts that "its sweetness is like a thorn". There are also various ways to eat, and Lu You has an article "Ten Rhymes of Eating Thorns", which focuses on the practice of cabbage.
Source Shenjiang Service Herald
But everydayly, stir-frying or chopped and blanched in water, served with dried and sesame seeds, drizzled in sesame oil, is a wonderful appetizer. I saw more stuffing with cabbage, dumplings, buns, tangyuan, and Jiangnan spring rolls and wontons. The old Shanghai wonton shop, in the south, is a Chinese fast food that can compete with Shaxian snacks and Lanzhou ramen. Whenever I go there, I also like to order a bowl of wontons with cabbage – although the taste is not as good as the freshness made by myself.
The cabbage is delicious, but after reading Zhou Zuoren's "Wild Vegetables in the Hometown", I realized the elegance of Wudi Cabbage, and Mr. Zhou Zuoren said in the text: "'On the third day of March, both men and women wear cauliflower. Proverb: Three springs wear flowers, peach and plum shy and prosperous. ’”
Cauliflowers look like this
After checking, the scattered little white flowers of the cabbage actually have flower language, which means "give me all for you." And edible, has the effect of spleen, heat, and eyesight. Can't help but open my mind: it is not a peach and plum with cauliflower flowers, but an overwhelming practical advantage. Just like the rose cabbage in these years, the end of the confession directly under the hot pot, but it is a good thing to make the best use of it.
Second set: Elm Money
The elm tree is a great tree, drought-tolerant and barren, with a usable trunk, edible bark and leaves, and is a life-saving tree during famine years. Especially with a good name on the stall, people can't help but want to ask for some color on it. In the past Chinese liked to use it as a roof beam, taking the meaning of "elm beam (residual grain)". The seeds of the elm tree, namely elm pods, are tender green and flattened, shaped like coins, and are called "elm money (yu qian)".
There were many elm trees in the large yard where I used to live, and in the spring, the air was filled with sweet fragrance. It's fun to grab money, grab a soft branch and slowly pull it down, you can grab it all over your hands.
Yu Qian can be eaten raw, is a sticky and sweet taste, the more chewy the more fragrant, but also can make a variety of delicacies, of which steaming is the most common. In the "Records of the Yanjing Dynasty", "Yu Qian Cake" is impressively included in it: "When Yu First Money was made in March, it was picked and steamed, and it was combined with sugar noodles, which is called Yu Qian Cake." ”
Steamed cake with elm money and noodles is yu money cake, which is white and green, and has a sweet taste. However, once white noodles were only affordable by large households, and ordinary civilians ate a "fresh meal" and steamed elm money nests with cornmeal - is it the other way around now?
Yuqian Nest Head, Picture Source Baidu Encyclopedia
According to my parents' generation, Yuqian used to be a delicious food on the side of the road, but in the current industrialization is so developed, in the bustling city, for the sake of good health, it is best to give up this fun.
Third plate: bracken
Bracken is also a delicacy that cannot be left untouched. Its history is also long enough, in the poem "Guofeng Zhaonan Grass Worm": "Zhi Pi Nan Shan, words and ferns." "It can be seen that since the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, bracken has become an important vegetable.
Chinese folk eat bracken, the most tender bracken fist buds, petiole purple, bud tip verdant curled, also known as "dragon's claw dish".
This part is tender and unrestrained, the most sweet and tasty. Luo Yonggong, a Ming Dynasty man, has a poem praising bracken: "Pile up the plate to cook purple agate, and chew the ming glass in the mouth." Dissolve and dissolve the sweet as a rapture, but feel the stomach back to Chunxi. "The tender bracken sprouts are piled on a plate and steamed in a cage, without too much seasoning, it is full of spring breath."
Not only is the taste delicious, but the feminine posture of bracken curled up is often used as an auspicious pattern, and the "dragon claw pattern" similar to bracken is seen in the costumes of many ethnic groups, and even in Japanese culture, bracken is also found. In Yasunari Kawabata's Nobel Prize-winning novel "Chizuru", it is mentioned that the tea ceremony family Mitani family has a black weaving tea bowl depicting the pattern of tender bracken: "The young buds of this bracken can reflect the taste of the mountain village, and it is a good tea bowl suitable for early spring." ”
The stems of bracken can also be eaten. After watching the movie "Little Forest", you know that slowly pulling up from under the bracken can be folded in its most vulnerable parts. Eat directly on the dust of the stove and soak it in boiling water overnight to remove the bitter taste. If you want to preserve it, you can pickle it with a lot of salt and you can eat bracken all year round.
Screenshot of "Little Forest Winter and Spring"
Which way do you like to eat? If you grew up in the city and are more familiar with the sour and spicy fern root powder in restaurants, that's not bad.
Fourth plate: Goji berry head
The above must be familiar to everyone, but the head of the goji berry is not necessarily recognizable to everyone. The reason why it is included in it is mainly because the degree of deliciousness recorded in the book is really eye-catching.
The head of the goji berry is green and green, and the stem is glowing with lilac, which is the tender bud of the wolfberry in spring and summer, and grows in the gentle spring breeze in the countryside. There are beet heads in the countryside, which shows that its taste is outstanding.
At first know this dish, or in the well-known aristocratic recipe "Dream of the Red Chamber", the three girls and the treasure girl also hungry for a "fried goji sprouts in oil and salt". In addition to the classic oil and salt stir-frying, you can also add sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar and cold mixing after blanching, Mr. Wang Zengqi called "extremely fragrant".
Screenshot from "Food Table"
The Ming Dynasty's wild vegetable miscellaneous record "RuCao Weaving" wrote even more powerfully: "Zizhi Yao grass is not expensive enough, and the goji berries in the hill are raw and Qianqian... But if you can chew and discern the deep taste, why do you miss the immortals? "Good fellow, delicious enough that the gods don't want to do it, boasting to this extent, you can call a rainbow leader."
Fifth plate: Toon
Finally, I want to talk about toon.
At home, at this time, toon becomes the guest of honor at the family banquet.
Among the many fragrant wild vegetables, toon is an outlier. It has green leaves and red edges, and its appearance is a little ostentatious. Contains a volatile aromatic organic substance called toonin, which has a strong odor and is a strongly flavored player.
Screenshot from "China on the Tip of the Tongue"
Although the whole family praises the toon up and down, especially prefers to use it to mix tofu, it is said that in the slow chewing, you can taste the fresh fragrance of the flowers, but this delicious I can not stand, probably also considered an outlier at home. It is said that if you feel that toon is flushed, you can use a little more oil to balance the taste, scrambled eggs are just right, and people who are not so repulsive to the taste of toon can try it.
Because toon is very popular and the price is not cheap, some years even soar to more than 100 yuan a catty. Therefore, there are also profiteers in the vegetable market who take similar and cheap neem tree shoots as undercover, if the novice does not want to be the wronged head, you must learn to smell the art of smelling, the smell of toonine, smell a few times can not forget.
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Speaking of wild vegetables that look similar to toon, there is another kind worth mentioning. In "Little Forest, Winter and Spring", Ai Hashimoto once searched for a wild game "bud" in the mountains, and when made into tempura, it looked crisp and tender, which made people eat their fingers.
Screenshot from "Little Forest: Winter and Spring"
"Sprouts" are most likely China's "thorny buds", mainly growing in the northeast region, known as "the first mountain treasure in the northeast". As long as it is blanched with water, whether it is directly dipped in sauce or scrambled eggs with fried meat, the taste is extremely beautiful.
The edible part of the thorny buds grows on top of the slender tree, and when picking, find a wooden pole with a turn and carefully retreat. If you don't break it well and directly hit the face with the branches, it is another kind of "fried meat" flavor that is not very wonderful.
City people, don't go digging wild vegetables
Some people say that on the road to Qingqing, if you see someone wearing a mask, carrying a large scissors, carrying a huge bag, it is more likely to encounter a wild vegetable digger than a pervert. This side of the elm money, that side of the digging dandelion are basic operations, every year on the local number there are a lot of digging wild vegetable raiders, Malan head on the roadside, the rhizome is red, the best thing to eat is the top two young leaves; the cabbage likes yin, the edge is jagged, how long in the pond ...
Since eating wild vegetables is a luxury that should be in season, then go out and step out to solve the vegetables for dinner, free and natural, and the people in the city are so good at this mouthful of freshness.
Aunts who pick wild vegetables. Image source China Business Network
- Where is such a good thing? Living in a city should have such an awareness.
Wild vegetables are easy to recognize in the market, but they are different when they grow in the field. Every year, there are accidents in hospitals due to the accidental consumption of poisonous wild vegetables. It is the most common spring vegetable, but the very similar-looking southern and northern amaranth cannot be eaten and is poisonous. Also confusing are purslane and lacquer, okra and mandala... Coupled with the fact that it is not clear whether they grow through industrial wastewater, the content of heavy metals exceeds the standard, and the probability of poisoning continues to rise. The National Health and Family Planning Commission has done research, in the poisonous animals and plants and poisonous mushrooms caused by food poisoning deaths, the vast majority of them occur in the family, and misetake and miseed eating is also the most important reason.
Unfamiliar with the nature of wild vegetables is more likely to have accidents, most of the common wild vegetables are photosensitive plants, which will increase the body's absorption of ultraviolet rays, and the ultraviolet rays in the suburbs are strong. If you're eager to pick a plate of seasonal vegetables and bask in the afternoon sun, solar dermatitis may make your face swollen to the point where you can't open your eyes.
Greed for this point is a small bargain, whether it is to become an emergency room case or a case of Luo Xiang's teacher, it is not worth it. Let the professional people do professional things, and if they want to eat something fresh, give it to the farmer uncle.
Why do we love spring? It is the first warm wind of love that blows through, and the joy that whistles through the heart when the greenery of all things is sprouting. Collecting this greenery is a spring copy.
Chinese, who takes food as the sky, swallows spring into the belly in the most primitive and simple way.
China's wild vegetable culture has a long history, and the text mentions limited. In the Ming Dynasty, Wang Pan's "Wild Vegetable Recipe" included 60 kinds of wild vegetables, all of which he himself visually examined, tasted, self-titled, and hand-painted, and Zhou Lujing's "Rucao Weaving" was more powerful, recording 105 kinds of wild vegetables, and all of them had pictures, which became an important agricultural book at that time.
If you think that these two books are biased, then how about looking at Journey to the West? There is a passage that directly records nearly forty wild dishes, among which the refreshing taste of the mountains and wild is hidden, and is given to everyone:
The Eight Commandments laughed and said, "Noisy, let it go faster, we are hungry." Kirito said, "There is!" There is! "Sure enough, when it was not long, the table and stool were spread out, and the table would be put up, and the fruit was a few plates of wild vegetables.
But see that:
Tender blanched yellow cauliflower, sour white drum diced, floating rose purslane, river grass goose intestine.
The swallows are not fragrant and tender, and the buds are small and crisp. Rotten boiled horse blue head, white roast dog foot.
Cat ears, wild fallen, ash strips cooked rotten can be eaten; scissor strands, cow pond sharp, inverted nest snail broom. Crushed rice, lettuce, a few pints of green and creamy.
Fried uying flowers in oil, ling family can even be exaggerated; pu root vegetables and zier's vegetables, four like near the water real Qinghua. Look at Mai Niang, delicate and good; break the na, do not wear him; bitter ma under the fence.
The finches are single, the feet of the foxes are burned; the oil is scorched and fried to eat. Oblique artemisia annua hugs the mother artemisia, and the lamp flies on the board buckwheat.
Sheep ears bald, goji berry head, plus dark blue without oil. A few wild vegetables are a meal, and the tree is pious for the reward.