Cloth warp color bean green
One of the traditional Chinese colors. Bean green: The emerald green color like green beans, which is an adjective. It is a kind of light green with a yellowish color, which is named because the color is like a green bean color. Bean green orange is distinct, full of youthful atmosphere and light and lively color, is one of the ancient women's favorite clothing colors.
Dou Lu only appears once in "Dream of the Red Chamber":
"Dream of the Red Chamber" The third time:
... This person was dressed differently from the girls, brilliantly embroidered, like a divine princess fairy: wearing a golden silk eight treasures holding a pearl bun on his head, hanging beads with five phoenixes in the morning sun, wearing a red gold plate and a crepe ring on his neck, a bean green palace tassel tied to the skirt, a double-balanced flounder rose pendant, and a golden butterfly wearing a flower big red satin narrow tunic jacket, a multicolored carved silk stone green and silver rat coat, and a jade sprinkled flower crepe skirt.
In other Qing Dynasty novels, bean green appears many times, and is not written in detail.
In ancient porcelain, bean green glazed porcelain is listed alongside sky blue, azure blue and moon white as one of the famous porcelain fired by the Northern Song Dynasty official kiln - Ru kiln, which is famous for its elegant and simple colors.
Xu Zhiheng's "Drinking Liuzhai Says Porcelain • Say Color": "Bean green, bean green, this two-color Song Brother Kiln is the most prosperous." Brother kiln more as bean green, brother kiln more as bean green, all moist Yingze, to be cute... Before the Ming Dynasty, the bean green was slightly yellow, and the qing was pure and nearly green. ”
The word bean green is also used in flowers:
Bean green, one of the four famous products of peony, crown type or hydrangea type. There is a peony variety called "Calyx Luhua", which is said to be the originator of green peony, which was planted in the royal palace of Yongning in the Tang Dynasty. Large petals of louzi flowers, each petal has green, at first glance, the whole flower like many butterflies gathered together, so it is also called "green butterfly".
"History of Peony in Bozhou": There is a kind of green flower, the color is like bean green, large leaves, dry layers, from the Tang family, really a foreign product, rare in the world.
The "Whole Song Poem" has "Silkworm three sleep barley ripe, containing peach rotten red pea green." "Rain wash cherry red broad bean green, gold-clad boy poor who." and other verses.
Modern archaeologists have done chromatographic analysis of Tang Dynasty silk fabrics excavated from Turpan, Xinjiang, and found a total of 24 colors of different shades of blue, green, yellow and other color systems, including bean green.
"Bean green" is a formal composite color word composed of the color noun morpheme "bean" plus the epichrome adjective morpheme "green", which is rich in image color.
"Zhejiang Tongzhi" Volume 16 "Indigo Qing" Dongyang County Chronicle: Xingye name Indigo, not very good, round leaves of horseshoe indigo. The mountains and countryside are all planted, and the hair is dyed with silk, and the cloth color is dark blue. Another is called sativa green, and another is duck green.
The "Snow Eunuch Embroidery Spectrum" records that there are fifteen colors each of the old green bean green and the green bean green. These fifteen colors should be divided in shades.
What dyes and processes are used to dye bean green?
The "Tiangong Kaiwu" only records the dyeing process in the article :bean green: yellow tiller, blue (yellow tiller: that is, yellow cedar; blue: that is, indigo blue) the dyeing process is not written. In this order, it should be dyed first, followed by indigo. However, there should be a ratio of yellow and indigo, which requires skilled dyeers to repeatedly explore to achieve it. And it can't be a fixed color, as Shen Shou, the author of "Snow Eunuch Embroidery", said: "The karmic dyeer clouds, and the color changes with the inset." It also changes with the dry and wet weather. Often there are those who try it with the color they got yesterday and change it today; those who try it with the color they get today, and change it tomorrow. Change is unobtainable and impoverished. ”
The Dye for Dyeing Bean Green is recorded in the Book of Cloth as being more detailed and different than in the Heavenly Works:
Bean green Deep sapphire blue foot ground, locust rice 25 catties, alum 7 catties, wide ash half a catty
Indigo is the use of indigo, yellow barberry replaced by locust rice, the measurement is more accurate. At the same time, it is clearly stated that alum is used as a mordant, and the pH is adjusted by grass and wood ash.
According to the author's opinion, referring to the records of flowers and ancient porcelain in ancient books, the bean green should be light green, so that it is closer to the true color of the young green (pea) bean. It is a very elegant color, in line with the aesthetics of Chinese.
Huang Ronghua Xin ugly year september 21 grass in Songzhuang
Author's note: This article is one of the articles in the "Cloth Scripture Color Examination" that is being written, there are abridgements, please respect the original, without permission, refuse to reprint.
Pay attention to the public number "National Dyeing Hall Hanfang Hand Dyeing", "Royal Dyeing Home", there are more plant dyeing information and techniques of dry goods. We are also welcome to participate in the "Traditional Dyeing Professional Seminar" when the flowers bloom in the coming spring.