In May 2013, Lee Cheung-ho performed at the Community Chest Of Hong Kong Charity Dinner.
Gourmand Cai Lan promoted abalone for Li Changhao for free.
Li Changhao, the owner of The Chaozhou Restaurant in Xiamen Street, Singapore, is a representative of Singapore's Teochew cuisine, mr. Cai Lan has mentioned him many times in the article, and also invited him to the food program of Hong Kong Jade Channel to introduce the two kinds of chaozhou cuisine ancient and early taste of "dragon wearing tiger belly" and "ancient cooking pomfret". He also said that every time he returned to Singapore, after paying homage to his parents, "I will dine with the family, and I will go to 'Faji', here is our family's canteen, from the time of my parents, I have appreciated the craftsmanship of the current boss Li Changhao's father, a generation of Xianyou, Li Changhao and I have become friends." It is made of Teochew cuisine, and most of them are lost. Brother Li's steamed pomfret skills, I arrived in Chaozhou and Shantou, the birthplace, and I couldn't find any more intelligent than him. There are also roast suckling pigs, insisting on charcoal, and roasting out is bare skin, which is rare in Hong Kong. To eat Teochew fish raw, you have to order a day earlier, they use the western knife fish thinly cut, order Chaozhou traditional sauce, the western knife for deep-sea fish, not afraid to eat raw. Coupled with Brother Li's deep research on ingredients, he has already imported several tons of high-grade dried abalone into the goods, and today's restaurants have the nature of playing tickets, and the craftsmanship is more transcendent. ”
Singapore FaJi Teochew Restaurant's ancient cooking pomfret.
First, because of the food and the connection
Through Mr. Cai Lan's introduction, I have been fond of Li Changhao's cooking skills for a long time, but unfortunately I have not been able to meet him. Later, he called me first and talked about a couplet he had heard when he was a child: "The eel long loach has ears and three furniture have no scales; the turtle round turtle flat crab has no head, and the plate is full of shells." " content. This couplet is said to be from the Miao pair when Lin Daqin was a teenager during the Ming Jiajing period, and the other is from the mouth of Cai Xin, a scholar of the Qing Dynasty. Cai Xin was a native of Zhangpu, Zhangzhou, and legend has it that he was the same sect as Cai of Chenghai Lingting, who came to the banquet and sat first. During the banquet, there was a township boss who was greatly dissatisfied with the first person being seated, and constantly asked about the identity with words, Cai Xin smiled every time and replied: "Please don't ask more, there is no wine or food." In the end, he had no choice but to say that the person who asked the question had to retire and slip away because of the huge difference in status. It is said that this is the origin of the Chaoshan proverb "da break no wine".
Later, when I visited him on a trip to Singapore, I was warmly welcomed by him, ate a lot of dishes that were different from the local Teochew cuisine, and began a formal relationship.
Singapore FaJi Chaozhou Restaurant is located in Xiamen Street, which has now been relocated. I haven't been to the new address, but I have a phone number 6423 4747.
The shop is full of high-end ingredients such as abalone.
I started by donating books, and then I set up the Teochew Cuisine Research Association and hired him as a consultant.
Second, the Teochew taste of Nanyang
In terms of the stylistic characteristics of the cuisine, Singapore's Teochew cuisine belongs to the Nanyang genre of Teochew cuisine. Originally, cuisine was only a regional concept, for example, Teochew cuisine refers to the flavored dishes produced within the old Teochew capital. However, in history, Teochew people emigrated overseas in large numbers, forming a large number of immigrant societies in Singapore, Thailand, Hong Kong and other expatriates, so that Teochew's food culture can be relatively completely preserved. On the other hand, due to the influence of geographical environment factors, overseas Teochew cuisine is difficult to obtain from the original hometown, whether it is ingredients or seasonings, and it is necessary to find alternative products from the local area. Especially after the founding of New China, due to ideological reasons, the hipsters at home and abroad were isolated from each other and developed independently, and eventually formed three different styles of Teochew cuisine genres of Chaoshan native, Hong Kong and Nanyang. So, what is the scene of The Southeast Asian Chao cuisine represented by Singapore's Teochew cuisine? The following dishes are all taken from the Teochew Restaurant.
The tidal brine flavor is very popular, but the local only duck can be bought without geese, so only the brine duck can be eaten.
Frozen crabs are mostly green crabs, which are estimated to be too few or too expensive for local red crabs.
The traditional delicacy of oyster sauce is very popular, and most of the oysters come from South Korea.
Brewing money sea cucumbers, Chaoshan native has not done. The method is to stuff the meat in the ginseng and cut it into pieces when eating it, which is named because it looks like money.
The older the dish, the more it likes pork, and the more it has been passed down for four generations, it is not only the use of pork for dry abalone side dishes, but also for desserts. Glutinous rice is being made in the picture above, using glutinous rice, sweet taro puree, sweet white fruit and fried sugar-cured zou skin three layers of meat.
Eight treasure desserts. Sweets such as taro puree, golden melon, white fruit, lotus seeds, and red dates are used to wish for perfection and sweetness.
Dried abalone production is not only innovative, but also a staple of the specialty dish.
Third, old foreign wine and chao-style roast pig
During the banquet, Li Changhao opened the Wanlanchi Aged Wine, which has been treasured for many years. Wanlanchi is singapore's old-fashioned translation of brandy, and in 1940, when the literary master Yu Dafu was in charge of the supplement of Sin Chew Daily in Singapore, he went to the Chao Chamber of Commerce to drink Wanlanchi in the drunken flower forest.
When I was drunk, I suddenly stood up and said to me, Teacher, I will burn a suckling pig to drink! So I followed him up to the roof drying table, which had a stove frame welded with steel pipes, and underneath it was a whole piece of iron plate with a stove eye. Li Changhao first took out the suckling pig from the freezer and put it in the sink to thaw, the pig was imported from China, has been slaughtered clean, about 60 cm long, nearly 4 kg weight. Then the stove is made into a fire, a small amount of charcoal is lit, and then the iron plate is covered with a thick layer of charcoal that is slightly longer and slightly wider than the cut suckling pig. At this time, the pig is started to be forked, and the two sides should be worn from the hind legs through the ribs to the front legs and tightened, and the middle fork should be longer than the head. At this time, the fire was already strong, and the forked suckling pig rack was placed on the stove and began to roast. When roasting, you should keep turning the pig fork, but mainly roast the belly meat noodles first, and then roast the pork skin until seven ripe, and the process should use iron bars to prick the meat from time to time, so that the water vapor runs away to prevent the pig skin from foaming, and also brush some sweet and sour to make the skin color even. After about 30 minutes of roasting, the skin turns a bright golden brown and you're done.
The characteristics of the Chao-style roast suckling pig are light-skinned, which is different from the Cantonese-style hemp skin, which is the biggest difference. It is also required that the skin color is red and bright and golden, the entrance is sweet and fragrant, and it is eaten with sweet sauce and coriander.
The late Teochew master Zhu Biaochu's "Teochew Roasted Suckling Pig" recipe. Unfortunately, roast suckling pig is no longer popular in Chaoshan Province.
When cutting, the pig's head and tail are cut first, and the pig body is cut into 6 columns and 4 rows with a total of 24 long squares, which can be placed in the original shape of the long plate.
Fourth, some other miscellaneous notes
When the app food software "Taste Master" was launched, we were invited to perform on the same stage in Beijing.
Together, we visit Fang Shuguang (left), the inheritor of Chaozhou cuisine in Chaozhou City, who is famous for his food carving skills.
Take the stage to receive a certificate and abalone dishes from the evening during the Community Chest Hong Kong Charity Dinner.
During the 2016 Dragon Boat Festival, the official Michelin website introduced Li Changhao's mother to make Chao-style salty and sweet double-spelled meat dumplings.
The fourth generation of Singapore Faji Chaozhou Restaurant, Li Changhao's daughter Li Yuanjing.
Nowadays, Li Changhao's most proud thing is to make a fresh abalone that presents a heart, and Abajin is just one of the brands.