2021/05/22 Saturday Beijing
I came back from Macau early so that I wouldn't miss my friend's daughter's wedding. Maozi is a year younger than me, and he has lived in neighbors for about 30 years, so he can be said to have grown up together. Maozi's younger brother Long Long went to China Railway after graduation, and was later called out by me to go to a clothing company. Later, Long Long specialized in the shirt category, made his own brand "Kendywell", near the water tower, my shirt was basically contracted by "Kendywell". There are still a dozen Unsound Kendyville shirts in the closet, some of which are custom-made, fit and fit, quite scratchy, and comfortable. For a while, I was still working at Longlong's company and spent the lowest years of my life. Fa Xiao's daughter got married, must go to the scene to congratulate.
MaoZi was a man with thick lines, but when he handed his daughter's hand to his son-in-law, he still shed tears. At this moment, I felt the reluctance and affection as a father. It is also a happy thing for a man to marry a woman, and a daughter to marry, but I dare not imagine what I will do when Zhu Zhu gets married.
In the evening went to Refer in the North District of Sanlitun. Lin has given me Amway many times, and some friends have said that the food is good after going there. Chef Talib is a Canadian Indian with a sharp Chinese accent. Chef Long Ge of the Dragon Restaurant, who was ready to go with Chef Refer, said that they could communicate in Chinese, which showed that Ta libu's Chinese level was still good. Specific to some spices and sauces, he still used English, so that he could express his ideas more accurately.
The restaurant is located on the fifth floor and only does evening business and only accepts reservations. When you get downstairs to call the restaurant, someone will come down to pick it up, and you can't go up to the fifth floor without swiping your card. Restaurants with such personalities are rare in Beijing, and Tarib's reason is that the time from starting work to lunch is too short to prepare for a big meal, and if you can't perfectly show your style, it is better to just cook dinner. This is an attitude, a respect for the guests, but also a demand for oneself.
Talib at work
This meal has a long menu, three appetizers, four cold dishes, and what "in the clouds", "interlude", "Côte d'Azur", "Adventures of the Earth" and so on, desserts are also a bunch.
When I saw the menu, I predicted that this meal would take three hours to eat, and if it were not for Lin's rush, four hours would have been possible. But it's worth spending hours on this menu.
Welcome snack
Peony shrimp from Canada. On top are some flowers and leaves of the golden lotus, below is the clear soup of tomatoes, add some oil of wrinkled lemon, and use chopsticks to take this shrimp meat off and eat it with the soup below.
For a refreshing snack, the bottom layer of amaranth is a layer of yogurt, with some green beans, and some crushed amaranth and a little bit of mint oil, on top of which is an ice cream of green beans.
A mousse made of vacuumed duck liver is the shape of this toast, the duck liver has a gel made of expensive curd wine underneath, the yellow part of the plate is the sauce of sea buckthorn fruit, and the outer ring of the plate has some sea buckthorn fruit, lemon, calendula and white grapes.
King crab, the white part is smoked cauliflower, the bottom is smoked cauliflower and cauliflower puree, and the bottom has some palm tree fungus and a hot spring egg, drizzled with smoked cauliflower and a sauce made of thyme.
The first main course, blue lobster from France, is a homemade rice cake underneath with some fennel and shallots, a shrimp tong meat at the bottom, and a homemade Japanese broth in the blue part.
In this menu, I saw a strong Nordic style, I could see the shadow of NOMA and GERANIUM, there was also an element of Japanese wind, and even the concept of cold dishes in Chinese food. The ingredients are selected from all over the world, Japan, Canada, Europe and the small seafood of the East China Sea, and the seasoning uses a lot of spices, mostly plant elements, which is also the Nordic cuisine style. It's just that Tarib has made his own interpretation, with a clear personal style, and several cooking styles are fused in this menu with wisdom and dexterity, which is pleasing to the eye and pleasant to eat.
I love every dish without the slightest sense of violation, which is the first time in my Western food experience. The entry of oriental elements is one reason, and The homage to Chinese cuisine implied in Tarib's understanding of ingredients and the method of cooking and seasoning is even more important.
To be honest, this menu is not cheap, plus wine is more than 4300 yuan, almost the price of noma and geranium. The money is spent happily, and the price is no longer considered. Delicious can not be sought, eat is earned.