In your hearts, when you talk about the most stylish person, who is the first person to think of?
Is it a star? Or who are you coming into contact with in real life?
When it comes to style, the sheep are most likely to think of the memories of the times, the women of Shanghai in the colorful and green, ten miles of ocean field, the women of Shanghai.
The beauties in Shanghai have their own wind bones, and the women of old Shanghai are synonymous with "foreign atmosphere" in that era
The Shanghai Concession during the Republic of China period, the degree of foreignness is not inferior to that of paris in the same era, talented women, qipao, monthly cards, paramount dancers, these are the unique memories of that period.
And Shanghai, which was romantic in that period, was an era of ten divisions.
There are famous and talented women who lead the way, and there are dancers who are prostitutes who are forced to be helpless, they are like a symbol of the times, illuminating that dark time.
The reason why Yang said that the fashion in Shanghai during the Republic of China was separated was because there were two factions of Shanghai's clear atmosphere, one was talented women like Lin Huiyin and Zhang Ailing with background, talent and story.
The other is that in that era, the dancers and prostitutes who were also famous in the world, but had many lives, were all the embodiments of romance, but their fates were very different.
The courage to innovate is a famous girl
The number of beauties in each era is basically the same, but in the special time period of the Republic of China, the Shanghai women seem to bloom a little concentrated.
These women are not only talented, but also warm jade, and their outstanding style has also invaded their bone marrow.
They are not uniformly beautiful, with both the classical style left over from the late Qing style and the modern fashion of the new era;
There are both the imprints of tradition in the bones, but also the soul that wants to seek freedom and openness, and in the turbulent times, each has blossomed a flower that illuminates the times.
Some of them are celebrities in the history of architecture, some are good at words, some are sending love poems and paintings, some are engaged in interpretive careers, and some are literary scholars;
They are also the darlings of the fashion industry, and a casual movement will set off a wave of wind, which is an excellent representative of the old Shanghai style.
For example, Ruan Lingyu, a generation of movie stars who "has an unspeakable charm in her bones"; Lin Huiyin, a "talented woman of the Chinese generation" who has multiple identities such as a writer, translator, and architect.
There was also Lu Xiaoman, a translator, writer, and painter; and Zhang Ailing, a descendant of Li Hongzhang, a famous minister of the late Qing Dynasty, and a prominent writer from a prominent family.
It is said that they are the petite children of the times, because they are really from head to toe, they are full of everyone's style and refinement.
Tang Ying, who came from a famous family, was the ICON of the old Shanghai fashion and the shanghai celebrity who was the most leading at that time.
Tang Ying has been well-educated since childhood, and her appearance is even more speechless, the standard goose egg face is matched with curved willow eyebrows, coupled with a small and straight nose, there is a Western style between the eyebrows, and it is very eye-catching between the hands and feet.
It was a famous courtesan flower at that time
How exquisite is her style?
Even if she doesn't go out to socialize, she has to change three sets of clothes every day: a short-sleeved cardigan in the morning, a cheongsam when she goes out at noon, and a Long Western-style dress when guests come to the house at night.
Her sister Tang Weihong later recalled: "Her cheongsam rolled on a wide side, and the rolling edges were embroidered with flowers of various colors. In particular, there are hundreds of butterflies embroidered with gold and silver threads flying on the piping of a cheongsam, embellished with ruby buttons. ”
But anything she has worn and worn will attract everyone's imitation, is a bellwether leading the fashion of the beach, and now it is also a proper cargo master.
Even in her life, she experienced many misfortunes, and when she returned to China to visit her relatives in her later years, she was dressed in a green cheongsam, raising her hands and feet like a young girl, without the fatigue of the old woman's dragon bell.
Even at the end of her life, she said that "the butterfly is going to fly away" and did not forget the romantic departure
No matter what life has experienced, it has maintained that traditional and exquisite good lady style.
When it comes to the Shanghai style of the Republic of China period, it is the qipao that must not be bypassed.
The shrewd and elegant cheongsam beauty is a symbol of old Shanghai and represents most people's first impression of Shanghai fashion.
Because the design of the cheongsam neither overly flatters Western culture nor stubbornly preserves old traditions.
At that time, a classical and sexy Chinese modified cheongsam was definitely the most fashionable to wear, showing infinite style between hands and feet, and seeing them was like seeing the prosperity of Shanghai at that time.
The cheongsam was originally a robe for Manchu women and was conservatively designed.
In their eyes, the cheongsam should not only be exquisite, but also suitable and stunning, so they often change their own clothes
In terms of design, under the influence of the three-dimensional shape of Western clothing, the qipao was shortened in length, the waist was tightened, and the delicate and moving curves of Oriental women were displayed for the first time.
In terms of color, it is necessary to use red and green collocation, it is best to look for the flower fabric of the grandmother, and it can flourish in the crowd.
When the weather is hot, it is made into a "cool qipao" without a collar, sleeveless, and the length of the clothes is up to the knees.
The design of the cheongsam gradually changed from long to short, long sleeves into middle sleeves, short sleeves, no forks to open low, every detail of the change reflects the beauty of their daring to break through.
Zhang Ailing is a representative of the cheongsam fashion, she not only loves beauty by nature, but also has a love of clothes.
When she was in college, almost all of her scholarships were used to put clothes, and after becoming famous, she often designed her own cheongsam, and the style was quite chic.
And she is also happy to wear strange clothes to go out, socialize, what BF style, pajamas outside the wear, etc. These are the trends in today's fashion circle, she has long played.
There is also Ruan Lingyu, who also loved the qipao all her life, and in the many photos that exist today, it can be called the collector of the qipao.
And at that time, women were more avant-garde than that, they were keen on perming hair, and this trend spread from the upper class to the ordinary rich and noble families.
It is said that the new fashion style in Paris at that time will appear on the streets of Shanghai within 10 days.
The social atmosphere gradually civilized, and when the monthly card painting reached its peak, the various fashionable beauties dressed in cheongsam displayed on the posters could better reflect their courage to show their beauty despite the world's cold eyes.
Cities or fashions, people are just a concept without specific symbols.
Whether they are famous women, modern girls, or celebrity social flowers, these women who have lived in the years carry and continue the fashion genes of the city, and have become the most beautiful light source in this modern city.
Each leads the "wind and turmoil" of the wind moon field
It is said that the customs of the old Shanghai are very romantic, but the actual Shanghai of the Republic of China period is also very fragmented.
Because those talented women who are high up in the world have a good life, they have a good face and a rich face; but there is another part of the people, who are also graceful and have a very awkward status, that is, prostitutes in Shanghai.
At that time, prostitutes were almost another synonym for The Fashion of the Republic of China.
During the Republic of China period, prostitution was gradually legalized, the number of prostitutes soared, and the improvement of external image could greatly enhance the effect of soliciting customers.
As a prostitute, she also "rolled up" and had to take pains to dress up, so a fashion competition naturally began.
Shanghai, as a treaty port at that time, was a place where diverse cultures gathered, especially in the place of wind and moon, with more elements of integration, and the people who needed to please women here were also diverse, giving birth to a variety of fashions.
The beauty of the traditional small feet is not satisfied with the aesthetics of the time, especially in the industry of prostitute dancers, who are pleasing to people with color and appearance, and "sexy beauty" is also rising in this period.
In the early days of the Republic of China, there were restrictions on the color of clothing, and ordinary women could only wear plain clothes.
However, prostitutes in the Republic of China period will never succumb to black, white and gray, and their costumes must choose beautiful and eye-catching colors.
A book about the Republic of China period contains a passage describing the costumes of prostitutes:
"Needless to say, how to cut, what edges to roll, what flowers to embroider, you have to find a tailor to carefully consider, the workmanship is very fine." 」
At that time, there was even a saying that "the poor learn rich, the rich learn prostitutes", which was not to scold people, but to say that prostitutes were really good-looking.
At that time, the qipao was also the most commonly worn by prostitutes, so until now, there has been controversy about the qipao.
Because it represents the female innovation in the early days of reform, it also has a deep relationship with the prostitutes who are in a graceful posture and hook up the fence.
In addition to showing the waist cheongsam, Western clothing for Shanghai prostitutes, advertising modernity and independence, can only be worn by famous prostitutes.
At that time, I was able to wear a western dress, just like the green water ghost hanging on my hand now, showing the elegance of taste
There are two main types of dresses for famous prostitutes, modern dresses and European-style ladies' clothes.
They loved woolen dresses, wearing the most luxurious fox fur scarves of the time, or wearing huge frilled straw hats decorated with flowers, and wide belts.
In fact, Yi Ping's dress in "Love Deep rain and rain" is to some extent very representative of the dancer industry at that time.
Later, this trend flowed inland from the coast, from prostitutes to the general public, leading the fashion of Jiangnan and even half of China.
So that in the society at that time, it was better to see the fashion matter than to see the fashion week, and it was better to watch the Ten Mile Ocean Field, where famous prostitutes sang and danced.
Moreover, Shanghai prostitutes were also the forerunners of open smoking, which once attracted everyone to imitate.
In the movie "Eight Hundred", there is a scene that impresses the sheep, and the soldiers in the trenches watch the singing and dancing on the opposite side of the upstairs, which is really a heaven and a hell.
"The merchant girl does not know the hatred of the country, and sings the backyard flowers across the river", so that the front of the war is tight, and the scene of singing and dancing in the rear is also real.
Behind the prosperity of such a small number of people, what everyone does not see is that all of China is living in the depths of the water, the real Republic of China, the living standards of the common people can not catch up with the end of the Qing Dynasty.
From some points of view, the prostitutes of the Republic of China can be regarded as leading the fashion, but the erosion of the avant-garde in this wind and moon field is by no means the original intention of fashion.
Whether it is the upper class or the place of the wind and moon, Shanghai women have indeed come to the forefront of the world in a historical period.
"Shanghai Woman" has long become a cultural symbol of a period, and related elements such as qipao, permed hair, month card, Paramount dancer... They have been deeply branded as Shanghai, conveying the swaying style that belongs to the women of Shanghai.