The 20th century was a century of turmoil, and it was also a century of extraordinary significance for Nanjing, the ancient capital of Jiangnan, a famous historical and cultural city. In the whole of modern times, the three cities that are most inseparable are Beijing, Shanghai and Nanjing.
This evening Xinjiekou
From the material remains, we can best see what the past has left for a city, and the architecture is the frozen history and poetry. The 20th century, also known as the "Century of Architecture", especially in a top city like Nanjing, witnessed the peak of almost all architectural types and styles: those classic buildings are like a sea of smoke, scattered like pearls in the streets and alleys of Nanjing, dotted with countless.
Among these buildings, some of the essence is included in the "20th Century Chinese Architectural Heritage List", and some very important industrial sites are included in the "China Industrial Heritage Protection List". These architectural and industrial heritages have a high comprehensive value of history, culture, art, craftsmanship, cultural relics, economy or technology, and are the best of the best and treasures.
The Endless Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (1930)
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Nanjing's industrial heritage</h1>
List of Industrial Heritage Protection in China: A total of 200 important industrial heritage sites have been published nationwide, divided into two batches, each with 100 items each.
Nanjing was shortlisted for a total of 12 in the two batches, second only to Shanghai, which was shortlisted for 22 items, ranking second in the country;
However, 11 items in Nanjing were shortlisted in the first batch, with high gold content, such as Jinling Machinery Manufacturing Bureau, Shimonoseki Train Ferry, Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge, China Cement Factory, Jiangnan Cement Factory, Puzhen Machinery Factory, Yongli Plutonium Factory, Hutchison Foreign Firm, Republic of China Capital Water Plant, Republic of China Capital Power Plant, and National Government Central Radio (3 of which won the "industrial" and "construction" double heritage);
The largest factory in the Far East - A gate of the Wynn Factory
The second batch of shortlisted items is actually 2 items, but these two are part of the industrial projects, which are packaged with other provinces and cities, so it is counted as 2 0.5, that is, 1 item. They are the Jinpu Railway (Nanjing part: Pukou Station English building complex, Pukou locomotive maintenance section, Pukou power plant) and steamship Investment Bureau (Nanjing part: a European-style office building).
These are all pivotal industrial projects in the history of China's modern industry, and also reflect the key role of Nanjing in the "cradle" of modern industrial history.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > the architectural heritage of Nanjing in the 20th century</h1>
Old Nanjing street view
List of Chinese Architectural Heritage in the 20th Century: In order to pay tribute to the most quintessential part of the country's century-old classic architecture, five batches have been selected and announced, with a total of 497 items (98 items in the first batch, 100 items in the second and third batches, 98 items in the fourth batch, and 101 items in the fifth batch), Nanjing has been selected for a total of 35 items, and the number of selected projects is second only to Beijing, and Shanghai is the same, ranking second in the country.
Former Auditorium of National Central University (now The Old Auditorium of Todai)
Nanjing's modern architecture is quite high in terms of taste, specification and value, and is the base camp of modern architecture second only to Shanghai; modern architecture also has its representative works at each stage.
Among them, the first batch of 20th century architectural heritage was shortlisted for 9 items, the project names are Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, Purple Mountain Observatory, Sun Yat-sen Provisional Presidential Palace and Nanjing National Government Architectural Remains, The Former Site of National Central University, The Former Site of Jinling University, the Former Site of the Executive Yuan of the National Government, the Yuhuatai Martyrs' Cemetery, the Memorial Hall of compatriots killed in the Nanjing Massacre, and the bridgehead of the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge. The first batch of Nanjing was second only to Beijing (34) and Shanghai (13).
The first batch is the batch with the highest gold content, especially focusing on the historical significance and the comprehensive value of the building itself and the current function, but the building type is slightly serious and even solemn, and the 98 items selected in the country are roughly the same, and the next few batches are much easier.
Nanjing Xiaguan Avenue, one of the former commercial and trade centers in Nanjing
The second batch of Nanjing was selected for 11 items, accounting for more than one-tenth of the country;
The third batch of Nanjing is still selected for 7 items, and the weight of Nanjing's classic architecture can be seen, which is very capable.
The fourth and fifth batches of Nanjing were selected for 4 items each.
Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge bridgehead, a magnificent atmosphere of the "air bridge"
The next four batches of 26 items will be introduced.
Although there are still many classic buildings in Nanjing that have been unfortunately rejected due to various factors such as homogenization, historical significance is not large enough, existing is not ideal, and the existing role is not large enough, I believe that some of them will still be selected in the future batch.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > a century-old classic architecture (part) in Nanjing</h1>
The second batch (serial numbers are not in any order, the same below):
1. The former site of the National Central Museum is now the Nanjing Museum, one of the three major museums in the country, the first national public museum in China, and the first modern comprehensive large-scale museum modeled on the first-class museums in Europe and the United States.
At first, its founder Cai Yuanpei thought very far, but at that time, the actual completed building only had one main hall, but this hall alone was enough, compared with the Jinling Antiquities Preservation Institute before Nanjing, it can be described as a huge gap between heaven and earth.
Two views of the Nanbo Hall near and far
Created by Cai, designed by the famous architect Xu Jingzhi, and modified by Liang Sicheng, this imitation Liao-style building embodies the highest level of traditional architectural construction techniques in modern times. As the national museum at that time, even the Palace Museum was its subordinate institution.
Nowadays, the scale of Nanbo has expanded several times, forming a pattern of "one hospital and six museums". The friends who have been there know that there is no hole in it, especially the Republic of China Museum has restored the scene of the street market and become a net red punch card.
Although some of Nanbo's cultural relics have been transported to Taiwan and some have been moved to Beijing, the most mysterious thing is that the dusty cultural relics of the southward migration lie quietly in this famous museum.
2. The former site of the National Academy of Sciences is now the seat of the Nanjing Branch of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, but it has been reorganized into the Nanjing College of the Chinese Academy of Sciences.
This kind of imitation Ming and Qing Dynasty palace-style architecture, grand and solemn, is very representative in modern Nanjing, it is the use of modern technology to construct a traditional China, accustomed to using the top of the mountain and glazed tiles, with a little Western characteristics.
Nanjing Forestry College, East China Aviation College, Jinling University, Jinling Women's University, Guofu Examination Institute, Inspirational Society, Meiling Palace, Legislative Yuan, Guofu Resources Committee, Guofu Supervision Committee (East Palace), West Palace, Dutch Embassy, Overseas Chinese Guest House, Chiang Kai-shek Huangpu Road Official Residence... Most of them are government buildings that highlight traditional Chinese features, and you'll see a lot of this style in the streets of Nanjing's old town today.
Academia Sinica is the predecessor of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the beginning of scientific research carried out under the organization of the state in modern China, and the highest institution of academic research in modern China, which was established in Nanjing in 1928.
The first group photo of 81 academicians of the Academia Sinica, the big coffee gathered, how many can you recognize?
3. The former site of Jinling Women's University, which is now the Suiyuan Campus of Nanjing Normal University, is the first women's university in China, Nanyong Yizhu.
Jinling female big corner
The whole campus is like a palace, and there is no lack of delicate and exquisite garden design, rockeries and flowing waters, complement each other, a combination of East and West, and is praised by Tagore and others as "the most beautiful campus in the East".
American church schools adopt this traditional Chinese design, and Jinling Women's University is naturally no exception as an excellent representative of church schools. Designers include Henry Murphy and Chinese architect and Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum designer Lu Yanzhi.
The campus design is modeled after the Forbidden City
Because of the high tuition fees of this school, most of the readers at that time were the daughters of families above the middle class. The school was particularly important in the history of Chinese education during the transition period, and was part of the International Safety Zone during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, documenting the great deeds of a woman named Wittlin.
Today's South Normal University is beautiful with the garden wind and sunshine
4. The former site of the Great Hall of the National Assembly, which is now the Great Hall of the People in Nanjing, is a place for provincial, municipal and mass gatherings and performances, and has witnessed the wonderful performance of many classic literary and artistic programs.
Constitutional National Convention (March 1948)
It was originally built for theatrical and musical performances, and its actual function after its completion actually played a role similar to that of the US and European parliaments. It was the site of general elections and national conventions held in the late Republic of China, and the two national conventions held here in 1946 and 1948 established the constitutional government of the Republic of China.
The building is designed by Xi Fuquan, the new nationalist style, simple and dignified, and the National Art Museum across a wall is integrated; the façade bricks are made of fake stone, and the three-stage method of leging, wall body and durian commonly used in modern Western architecture is adopted, but the simplified Chinese pattern treatment is made in the exterior, window flowers, canopy, door leaf and other parts, which has a certain influence on later Southeast Asia. The internal equipment and facilities of the building were among the best in China at that time, surpassing the previously built Central University Auditorium (which was also the largest and most advanced auditorium in the country when it was built), and it cost a lot of money.
Now ordinary people can come and go here, returning to the embrace of the people.
5. The Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum Music Station will go to the place where the Chinese people will go after the Gurudwara, the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is the faith of the people in the Republic of China period, and the music station is a place of cultivation and relaxation, and it is the open-air venue for various large-scale concerts.
The corridor surrounding the music station is worth a walk. There are still concerts held here, and musicians from home and abroad are colorful.
6. The former site of the Nanjing Branch of the Bank of China is now used by the Yangtze River Water Conservancy Department. In fact, its original function is also related to "water", this building at a glance is known to be a typical customs building design, it is the customs building when Nanjing Xiaguan opened the port.
Later, it was used by the Bank of China (formerly the Daqing Bank). BoC Nanjing Branch is its most important branch, documenting the rise and fall of the modern financial industry. Today, this European classicist building still stands quietly on Riverside Road.
7. Meiyuan New Village is the former site of the office of the Party delegation in Nanjing, and a group of modern buildings with quite characteristics in this area have become an important cultural block in modern and modern times.
Premier Zhou's car in plum garden that year
From May 1946 to March 1947, our Party delegation headed by Comrade Zhou Enlai worked and lived here.
8, Jinling Arsenal was the earliest Jinling Machine Manufacturing Bureau, it is China's largest modern weapons manufacturing base, one of the four major arsenals, half of the domestic production of guns during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression are the factory system, known as "the cradle of China's national military industry".
It has now been transformed into a creative industries park
9, the former site of the Central Stadium is now the Nanjing Institute of Physical Education Sports Stadium, where many Olympic athletes have come out, and many movies are actually filmed here; it was once the largest stadium in Asia, representing the sportsmanship of the Chinese people to get rid of the image of the "sick man of East Asia" with a strong body.
Stadium entrance
The Central Stadium adopts the architectural form of traditional ethnic groups, and the archway and other facilities of the stadium reflect a strong traditional Chinese style, combining Chinese and Western styles.
The Fifth National Games of 1933 was the largest in modern history, with athletes from almost all provinces (including the then Japanese-occupied northeast and British-occupied Hong Kong).
This is the most exposed time at the Nanjing Central Stadium, when Liu Changchun, the first person in the Chinese Olympics and from the northeast, set a number of national records for sprinting, becoming the biggest star at the Games, and he also delivered a speech on the current situation in the northeast. Of course, as the host, the representative team of Nanjing Municipality directly under the Central Government played soy sauce, and the better performers were the five places of Liao, Ping, Shanghai, Guangdong and Hong Kong.
Gatehouse
The "Run Bar Brothers" program team once filmed here, and also filmed the Necklace of the Palace of Beauty, when the author's girlfriend had to come to see it on the spot, there were too many people, and as a result, nothing was seen.
10. The former site of the Provisional Senate of the Republic of China is now the seat of the Provincial Military District.
Originally it was used for the Jiangsu Provincial Consultative Bureau (Provincial Council) in the late Qing Dynasty. At the end of 1911, representatives of 18 provinces gathered here to discuss the establishment of the Republic of China and elect Sun Yat-sen as the provisional president, which was then used as a provisional senate. So, this is where the republic began. During the Feng'an Ceremony in 1929, Sun Yat-sen's coffin stopped here (it was changed to the Kuomintang Party Department at that time).
The building is in the French Renaissance classical style, the cloister design, for the front and back of the two entrances and the east and west wing of the courtyard composed of the courtyard.
11. The Central Army Officer School of the Republic of China is now the seat of the Eastern Theater, and its most striking building is the neoclassical auditorium.
In 1927, the Whampoa Military Academy was moved from Guangzhou to Nanjing, that is, the Central Military Academy, which was the highest military academy at that time, and Jiang often gave lectures at the military academy (many of the photos of his speeches are here), and the most famous military schools in nanjing were German instructors and German military education.
In September 1945, the famous World War II Chinese Theater surrender ceremony was held here, witnessing the shameful fate of the Japanese invaders. After the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, it was renamed the Ministry of National Defense and also tried Japanese war criminals.
Third batch:
1. The former site of the Arctic Pavilion Meteorological Observatory can be traced back to China's first "meteorological observatory" in the Southern Dynasty period - Riguantai, which was called Qintian Mountain in the early Ming Dynasty. The Republic of China also set up a meteorological station in imitation of the previous generation, indicating that they are in the same vein.
In 1927, Zhu Kezhen prepared to build the Institute of Meteorology of the Academia Sinica, and in the same year established the first national meteorological observatory in modern China in Jimingshan, making it the birthplace of modern and contemporary meteorology in China. In 1948, 81 academicians of the Academia Sinica held the first academician meeting in the Arctic Pavilion.
Dahua Grand Theatre
2. Dahua Grand Theater is one of the "Four Major Cinemas in the Capital" of the Republic of China, which is the largest, most advanced, most luxurious inside and the best preserved one today, and the only one still in business. Designed by master architect Yang Tingbao.
Dahua is known as "the most magnificent kingdom of heaven"
When people have the saying that "Shanghai is bright and the capital has Dahua", it can be called the representative of the cinemas in Beijing and Shanghai, the former is a Western modernist work, and the latter is an oriental neoclassical style with Western characteristics, which combines Chinese and Western styles, exudes a strong national atmosphere, and perfectly presents the advantages of Chinese aesthetics.
Comparing the old and new photos, it is obvious that it has been changed
Dahua occupies an important place in the history of Chinese cinema in the 20th century, showing almost all 20th century classics. During the Republic of China period, various celebrities and celebrities gathered here, mainly screening imported films (mainly American blockbusters). Mei Lanfang also performed Peking Opera here.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Chen Yi made a situation report at the Dahua Theater; the Czechoslovak military delegation visited Nanjing to hold a welcome meeting at the Dahua Theater, which Peng Dehuai presided over; and Liu Bocheng also went here to watch the film. It is an important place to receive foreign guests.
The Dahua Audience Hall is 66 meters long and 33 meters wide, divided into two floors, and completely arranges the stage, ceiling, wall and seat in accordance with the visual and acoustic requirements of the modern theater, which can accommodate more than 1,800 spectators at the same time.
Next door to Dahua is the Central Mall
Today, Dahua has faded its luxurious coat and is thriving in the old cinema (two of the four major cinemas in the Republic of China have disappeared, and one has been converted into a museum). Although it has been new, it is still retro and old, with the tone of the old time, and it is a must-go place for wenqing and petty bourgeoisie with nostalgic feelings. However, the author once met with his ex-girlfriend here, and was also complained that the place chosen was "not fashionable enough".
3. The former site of the Capital Hotel is now the Guest House of the Military Region, the Huajiang Hotel. It was once one of the most luxurious hotels in modern Nanjing, but today it looks much more ordinary.
Interior view of the former site of the Capital Hotel
Completed in 1933, it was mainly a place for military and political leaders and foreign guests at that time, with more than 50 guest rooms, which was not as large as another central hotel in Nanjing.
The hotel has 4 floors and is a Western modernist building, of course, the modernist style of the former site of the Supreme Court of the Republic of China across the street is more obvious than this.
4. The former site of the National Art Museum and the National Assembly Hall are twin brothers, but their façade composition is more tense, very simple and beautiful.
Completed in 1936, it is the first national art museum in China, the starting point of the cause of China's art museum, and also laid a solid foundation for the development of the new Chinese art museum.
In April 1937, the "Second National Fine Arts Exhibition of the Ministry of Education" was held here, and the artistic status of the members and censors of the preparatory committee of the exhibition (bringing together all the big names in modern times), the weight of the works of the participating artists, and the scale of the exhibition were the largest in the entire 20th century.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, it was transformed into the Jiangsu Provincial Art Museum. It is now an old museum, and an avant-garde new museum has been built on the nearby Yangtze River Road.
Now it is also a place for Internet celebrities to punch cards, and has become a "pilgrimage" destination for many petty bourgeoisie and wenqing. Now there is a café inside, and the coffee tastes good.
5. The former site of the Central Hospital is now the old building of the General Hospital of the Eastern Theater, which was once the largest and best hospital in Nanjing in the old days, far exceeding the Marin Hospital (now Gulou Hospital) run by americans in the same city.
Formerly known as the Central Model Military Hospital, it played a certain role during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression. At the same time, it is also the place where many major events in modern times have taken place.
6. The reason why the former site of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the National Government stood out among many departments and was selected for the third batch is probably because of its current purpose: the seat of the Jiangsu Provincial People's Congress.
The architecture is a neo-nationalist style, abandoning the palace-like structure and cumbersome Western-style style, and has inherent Chinese characteristics. During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, it became the site of the "General Headquarters of the Chinese Dispatch Army" of the Japanese Army, and the evil criminal Okamura Ninji worked here. After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, it remained the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Nationalist Government.
The building, built in 1935, was thick and durable, but unfortunately it was occupied by the Japanese army in only two years, and its mission as a "foreign ministry" lasted for more than 5 years.
In 1936
7. The former site of the Central Radio Station of the National Government was the most advanced radio station in the country at that time, the signal tower was record high, and it could be broadcast to both home and abroad at the same time, and there were some evening programs at that time that were quite distinctive.
Batch 4:
1. The former site of the Nanjing Branch of the Bank of Communications is now used by the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China, and it is a very conspicuous presence in the corner of the new street.
The Bank of Communications is the most capitalized and influential commercial bank in the country in modern times, with its head office in Shanghai, and this branch in Nanjing is its most important branch, then known as "Beijing Bank". The building was later used as the Central Reserve Bank and the Nanjing Branch of the Central Bank. At that time, its mysterious underground vault contained nearly half of the gold of the city of Nanjing.
Make friends tonight
Surrounded on three sides by 16 Ionian columns, this Western Roman classical revival building is magnificent, and the façade is exquisitely patterned, with clear lines and elegant elegance. The whole building is full of "Haipai" design sense, with extraordinary shape and momentum to highlight the owner's strong capital background and economic strength.
2. The International Festival, now the Nanjing Hotel, was a well-known community organization with an official background and club nature, mainly foreign missions in China and Chinese diplomats. During the Republic of China period, celebrities and nobles came and went, and the interior was particularly luxurious, and various entertainment activities were non-stop day and night.
During the Feng'an Ceremony in 1929, it and the Yangtze Hotel were the main contact places for foreign guests.
Today's interior scene can still faintly see the style of that year
At that time, the "Declaration" and others also stated that the site of the General Temple was a place for the members of the society to hold social activities such as dinners, exchanges, and dances. For example, on December 18, 1929, the society held a dinner party, which was attended by more than 40 Chinese and foreign people, including British and American consuls, and modern civilian educator Yan Yangchu gave an impromptu speech on "The Education Problem of our People", which enhanced mutual understanding between China and foreign countries from one side. On July 1, 1932, the International Gala also held a third anniversary here.
On December 5, 1929, Foreign Minister Wang Zhengting presided over a dinner party at the International Gala, briefing on "the process of representing China to Japan to attend the Pacific Conference and the important background of the meeting." On April 15, 1931, the German cruiser "Emden" arrived in Nanjing, and Wang Zhengting not only hosted a banquet at the official residence of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to entertain the commander of the fleet, but also invited the ship's band to come to the dance party to play music and cheer on the evening of the 18th. On November 24, 1932, Song Ziwen, vice president of the Executive Yuan, also hosted a banquet here to entertain some members of the American, British, French, German, Italian, and Belgian missions in China, which was "purely of a celebratory nature and did not discuss diplomatic issues."
These are just a few examples of the daily function of an International Gala. Today's Nanjing Hotel has faded its diplomatic color, and the public can book a table, once becoming a popular among the middle class.
Another public carnival, now a national small theater (white-collar theater), is located in solo ONE.1913 private block
3. The former site of the Yangtze Hotel has now restored its original function, and its extraordinary significance lies in the fact that the main materials are all taken from the Ming Forbidden City and the city wall.
It can be said that it is the soul of China made into the appearance of a French castle, and its original owner is an Englishman. The Yangtze Hotel was one of the earliest Western-opened hotels in Nanjing after its opening as a treaty port, and the wall tiles were taken from the ruins of the Ming Forbidden City and the Pukou Ming City Wall (not the wall of the main city of Nanjing).
The exterior is grand and unpretentious, while the interior is luxurious and luxurious. It adopts the composition method of Western architecture, the materials used in the interior are from North America, and the chinese components and modifications are embellished in the local area, which is called "modern Chinese architecture" in the architectural community.
Here we witnessed the efforts made by the Chinese Civil Rights League led by Soong Ching-ling to rescue the heroes, and also witnessed the development of Sun Yat-sen's cause.
4. Rabe's former residence is now located on the campus of Nanjing University, and this great figure deserves to be remembered forever.
Fifth Batch:
1. The former site of Pukou Railway Station and its surroundings
The grand terminus of the Jinpu Railway has witnessed countless major events in modern times, and is also the starting place of the first train ferry in modern Asia, as well as the filming location of film and television dramas such as "Deep Rain and Mist" and "Golden Powder Family". The author believes that the Shimonoseki Railway Station near the Zhongshan Wharf on the other side has the same value.
Pukou Railway Station old canopy
Nearby to do into the Republic of China style street and train culture theme park.
2, Nanjing Wutaishan Gymnasium is built brick by Nanjing people in the 60s, condensing the sweat and wisdom of Nanjing people, is the spiritual symbol of Nanjing, it is not only the largest sports venue in Nanjing before the Olympic sports era, but also a place where all kinds of big coffee concerts, concerts, large-scale international and domestic conferences, cultural activities, etc. at home and abroad gather, to this day, its functions are complete, the facilities are still not outdated, and it is an excellent place for Nanjing citizens to carry out physical exercise.
3. National Revolutionary Army Remnant School
4. Fuchang Hotel is a famous "time-honored" hotel in Nanjing. Its name is taken from "Fuze Four Seas, Changlong Four Directions", the Republic of China period and the Central Hotel, The Capital Hotel (Shanghai) is the same name, the author is not selected for the Central Hotel is a big regret, may be because its glory period is too short, not as long as the Fuchang Hotel.
The hotel was once one of the tallest buildings in old Nanjing, and the hotel had the world's most advanced and rare OTS hand-cranked elevator in China at that time. During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, China and Japan secretly discussed the surrender of the Japanese army here (before and after Japan's formal surrender). Later, it served as the official residence of Li Zongren and the club of senior generals, which was used to entertain important guests.
Since 1952, as an important reception place for domestic and foreign guests in Nanjing, Fuchang has received Chinese and foreign dignitaries such as Huang Yanpei, Hua Luogeng, Puyi, Pujie, Du Yuming, and the Grand Duke of Luxembourg.
The first floor of Fu Chang Hotel is rented out a lot
After 1980, Fuchang has become an ideal place for company gatherings and citizens to relax, and many Nanjing people's first Western food, first cup of coffee, first bite of Maotai and first date all started from "Fuchang", and are now known for Huaiyang vegetables and crab yellow soup buns.
< h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > concluding remarks</h1>
The above is only a very small part of the classic architecture of Nanjing in the 20th century, but it is the most important part in the historical sense, and to a certain extent, it is representative.
Presidential Palace complex in the snow