Cockles, it is estimated that many people see these two words, how to read do not know. The cockroach, pronounced yóu móu, is the best of the crabs, popularly known as the green crab.
The cockroaches, first seen in the "Book of Water Tribe Garn" written by Mao Sheng of the Fifth Dynasty, said: "Fu Yi'er special division shi Jia Zang (蝤蛑), known as the vice of the dragon, the crab master, should be awarded the Duke of Shuangguo, yuanzhen giant beauty hero." "It is said that it is a cockroach, the name of Jiazang (the provenance of this Jiazang is really unknown), and he is now a special judge, a little worse than The Cockroach (said to be a pike crab), and he intends to be appointed as the Duke of Shuangguo and the Hero of Yuanzhen Jumei." Jin Gehong Youyun: "On zhen, you can't abandon the giant beauty", the cockroach is not only a hero of the yuanzhen giant beauty, it must be the supreme delicacy.
Sima Liu Ke of Guangzhou during the Zhaozong period of the Tang Dynasty described the cockroach in the Records of the Ridge Table: "The cockroach is the giant and the different of the crabs. Crab claws have fine hairs like moss, eight legs on the body, and the cockroaches are hairless. The last two small feet, thin and wide, are commonly known as plucking off the child. It is different from the crab, its size is as big as a liter, and the southerners call it a crab. In August, this thing fights with tigers and often kills people also. "It can be seen that the cockroach is larger than the crab, the claw is hairless, and the two small feet are flattened. The claws of the cockroaches are more powerful, especially during the growing season, they can fight tigers and have the upper hand. The Tang Dynasty novelist Duan Chengshi's "Youyang Miscellaneous Tricks" also mentions: "Cockles, the big one is more than a foot long, and the two claws are strong." In August, you can fight with the tiger, the tiger is not as good. With the tide retreating shell, one retreat and one long. During the Song Dynasty, Lu Tuo also said in the "Pi Ya": "The cockroach, the two claws are strong, can fight with the tiger." No wonder Huang Tingjian said, "Angry eyes run rampant with tigers, and cold sand rushes to fire and disaster." Although it is three times in heaven, it is inevitable that the five heavens will be cooked on earth. ”
The Song "Baoqing SimingZhi" records: "Cockles, and full of claws, born in the mud cave of the seashore, the tide recedes to explore it, four times from time to time." The female is large and fat, and the heavy one is several pounds. Its small and yellow one is called a stone cockroach. The largest is called the green crab, and the smallest is called the yellow armor. Those with broad hind feet are also known as pulling out the seeds. Tu Benyi, a Ningbo native during the Ming Dynasty, also said in the "Minzhong Hai Tso Shuo": "Sea crabs, cockroaches, long rulers, yellow and blue shells." Golden crab color yellow, tiger crab text has tabby. "Cockles are born in the sea, mostly blue. The so-called yellow color, that is, the female crab when the cream is full, is also called the butter crab.
The great foodie Su University scholar wrote a poem "Ding Gongmo Sends Cockroaches", "The stone crab by the stream is as small as money, and I like to see the red jade plate of the wheel." Half shell contains yellow yi order wine, two claws xue xue to persuade to add food. The wild treasure sea has been famous for a long time, and the strange rain and fishy wind have entered the seat cold. Can laugh at Wu Xingfeng too defensive, a poem in exchange for two sharp groups. Ding Gongmo is a good friend of Su University, and the poem also praises the cockroaches and gives them a high evaluation, no wonder he will sigh "Not to Lushan to live up to the eyes, not to eat crabs to live up to the belly." Speaking of Su University scholars, we have to mention the allusion to the idiom "a crab is not as good as a crab". Su Daxue wrote in the "Ai Zi Miscellaneous Sayings": "Ai Zi walked on the sea, first saw the cockroach, followed by the crab and Peng Yue, the shape is similar and the body is smaller, because he sighed: 'What a crab is not as good as a crab?' This is extended to mean that one is not as good as one or one generation is not as good as a generation, in fact, the crab species are different.
When it comes to eating cockroaches, as early as the Later Tang Dynasty, Feng Zhen's "Yunxian Sanlu" recorded a way to eat, that is, "Lu Yisun eats cockroaches, burns in the Bowl of Shouyang, and enters a number of instruments." "Burning is roasting, that is, dry roasted cockroaches, roasted cockroaches have also swelled a lot, maintaining the original taste, the taste is the most delicious." In the Southern Song Dynasty's "Jade Food Batch", which records the imperial meal of the court, it is recorded: "With the cockroach as the signature, for the wonton, for the maple urn, stop taking two claws, and the rest of the abandoned land is said to be non-noble food." "The literary scholar of the late Song and early Ming Dynasties mentioned in the "Past Affairs of Wulin" that when Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty went to the residence of the Qinghe County, Zhang Jun, the king of Qinghe County, had the dish of cockroaches signed at the imperial meal. Sign, is not the meaning of picking out the claw meat on the skewer, this eats to no effort, but unfortunately this belongs to the "noble food".
Cockles, there is also a famous dish, called "densely brewed cockroach". In the Ming Dynasty scholar Gu Yuanqing's "Relics of Yunlin", the practice is specially introduced. He said this: "Honey stuffed cockroaches, cockroach brine, slightly boiled, only to change color, then waterlogged, split open to leave the whole shell of the claw feet, out of the meat strands chopped into small pieces, first put the upper pieces, rowed in the shell, with a little honey into the chicken bomb, stirred evenly, poured over, the second time with cream on the chicken bomb, steamed." The chicken bullet is only dry and condensed, and it is eaten. Do not steam, orange vinegar offering. Tang Yanqian, the tang dynasty thorn Shi, already wrote in the poem "Crab": "Man exaggerated abundance tasted over cockroaches, and the tip of the navel was better than the navel of the regiment." The plate is cooked and stacked, and the orange paste sauce is delicious. "Densely brewed cockles, freshly baked, served with orange sauce, dipped in vinegar, looking at it also makes people tongue-in-cheek, hungry insects lurking ah!
The Song Dynasty poet Zheng Jie wrote in "Re-arrival huiji": "Life is happy as it is, and the world is alarming and gradually realizing wrong." It is the west wind that ripens the wine, and the clam cream is full of clam fat. "Autumn wind, crab feet itch, life is happy, Mo Rulai only cockroaches, or steaming, or making soup, has its own delicious taste in the heart."
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