The pattern of Taotian (Taobao + Tmall) beauty is still changing drastically.
On the eve of the Double 11 sale, "Cosmetics Observation" combined with Mojing market intelligence data to analyze the brand data of Taotian Beauty in the first three quarters of this year.
In terms of category market, from January to September 2024, under the Taotian beauty category, the GMV of beauty and skin care/body/essential oil was 99.132 billion; GMV of makeup/perfume/beauty tools was 40.626 billion yuan; Hair care/wig GMV of 20.057 billion yuan; The GMV of beauty and body equipment was 11.335 billion yuan.
In terms of the top 20 brands, the growth rate of domestic brands was stronger, while the growth rate of foreign brands generally declined or increased slightly.
For example, Proya, Kefumei, and Ruyi in the skin care category, Mao Geping and Hua Zhizhi in the makeup category, and Vitesi, Ruyi, and OFF&RELAX in the hair care category, all of which all increased by double digits or triple digits year-on-year.
However, L'Oreal, Lancôme, Estee Lauder, Shiseido, SK-II, etc., all of which are leading brands in foreign beauty cosmetics, are facing varying degrees of decline. However, there are also brands such as Clarins and Maxine, and the growth rate is still strong.
The TOP1 skin care category changed hands: L'Oreal became Proya.
After winning the TOP1 of Taotian Skincare on Last Year's Double 11 and 618 this year, Proya also ranked TOP1 in the category from January to September this year, and was ahead of L'Oreal, the second place, and is expected to win the TOP1 of Taotian Skincare in 2024.
除此之外，珀莱雅集团旗下彩棠、off&relax，也均跻身彩妆、洗护发类目TOP20：彩棠店铺GMV位居国货彩妆TOP1；off&relax品牌同比增速超60%。
The specific analysis of each type of project is as follows:
Beauty & Skincare/Body/Essential Oils
Brand Dimensions:
Only 7 of the top 20 brands belong to domestic brands, and they are mainly concentrated in the 10-20 places. There are only two domestic brands in the TOP10: Proya and Winona.
There are 13 brands that have reached 1 billion GMV, and 11 are foreign brands; There are 3 brands above 2 billion yuan, and 2 are foreign brands.
Proya firmly occupies the TOP1 position of Taotian Beauty Skin Care/Body/Essential Oils, and has opened a gap of 700 million yuan with the sales of L'Oreal, the second place. The top 3 domestic brands are Proya, Winona, and Naturetang.
Among the top 20 brands, there are 12 brands with positive growth, and only 7 brands with double-digit growth remain. Among them, Confucianism has the highest growth rate, exceeding 150%; The growth rate of the TOP1 brand Proya followed closely behind, exceeding 52%; The growth rate of Fumei exceeded 42%; Among foreign brands, Clarins led the way in terms of growth, reaching 39.91%.
Among the high-end luxury brands, La Mer and Helena are still growing. Among them, La Mer increased by more than 14%. The second-tier Lancôme, Estee Lauder, SK-II, and Shiseido all fell by about 10%, which is highly consistent with the performance disclosed by their groups; Clarins, SkinCeuticals, Kiehl's, and WHOO also maintained positive growth.
Store dimensions:
There are 9 stores with more than 1 billion GMV, of which 3 are official stores of Tmall, 4 are official stores of foreign brands, and 2 are official stores of domestic brands.
12 stores maintained positive growth. Among them, there are 7 stores with double-digit growth, and the store with the highest growth rate is Tmall Global's self-operated Miaoyan Club, with a growth rate of more than 80%; followed by Proya's official flagship store, with a growth rate of 67.46%, higher than its brand growth rate. The official flagship stores of Fumei and Clarins also maintained a growth rate of more than 36%.
The three brands of Proya, Clarins, and Kefumei have maintained a high growth rate in terms of brands and stores, and the growth rate gap is not large, which shows that they have a high level of self-operation and distribution.
There are also 7 seats of domestic products in the top 20 stores. Zhiben and Ximuyuan official flags are among the TOP20, and Ruyi and Pechoin stores do not appear in the TOP20.
Makeup/Perfume/Beauty Tools
Brand Dimensions:
There are 12 of the top 20 brands in the category of makeup/perfume/beauty tools, and there are only two domestic brands in the top 10 brands, Carslan and Mao Geping, which are more consistent with the overview presented by the beauty and skin care/body/essential oil category.
Of the 12 foreign-funded makeup brands, 50% are in a year-on-year decline. 3CE, Armani, Mico, and Tom Ford all saw double-digit declines.
The top 3 domestic makeup brands are Carslan, Mao Geping, and Caitang, and they are all growing positively. In the context of the collapse of cutting-edge cosmetics, the major brands of Huaxizi, Huazhizhi, Tangerine, Ermuzhu, and Into You are still stable at the table.
YSL is the only brand with a GMV of more than 1 billion. YSL currently ranks in the TOP3 in GMV on Douyin, and is a brand with strong strength across multiple platforms.
Only 5 brands in the TOP20 still maintain double-digit growth, and 3 are domestic products. Maxine's growth rate exceeded 54%; Flower knows more than 44%; Mao Geping exceeded 35.81%; The key to the skin is over 21%; Carslan is over 11%. Among them, Mao Geping, Key to Skin, and Kazlan are all Douyin's top 20 brands in the third quarter; At present, Huazhi is also a brand in the top 20 GMV of makeup in Xiaohongshu.
Store dimensions:
None of the stores have a GMV of more than 1 billion. In the TOP20, non-brand official flags occupy 5 seats, foreign brands occupy 9 seats, and domestic brand official flags occupy 6 seats.
The top 3 stores of domestic official flags are Caitang, Kazilan, and Huaxizi, and only Caitang's official flag increased slightly by 3%.
The C store "Cheng Shi'an's store" ranked among the top 7 stores in GMV and maintained a year-on-year growth rate of 7%. The store operator is Shanghai Fangyi E-commerce Co., Ltd., and the actual holding company is Shanghai Jinjia Technology Co., Ltd. At present, Cheng Shi'an and Jinjia are still in a state of legal dispute, and in May last year, Cheng Shi'an's Xiaohongshu was suspended.
Unlike the general sluggish growth of the brand dimension, the number of stores that maintained double-digit growth was even higher, reaching 9. In addition to the 3 non-brand official stores, Mao Geping, Dior, NARS, Estee Lauder, Hua Zhizhi, and Maxten all saw double-digit growth.
The three brands, Maxting, Hua Zhizhi and Mao Geping, have maintained a high growth rate in terms of brands and stores, and the growth rate gap is not large, which shows that they have a high level of self-management and distribution.
Hair care/wigs
Brand Dimensions:
There are two brands with a GMV of more than 1 billion yuan, Kérastase and L'Oreal, both of which are brands of L'Oréal Group. However, at present, both brands are in a negative year-on-year growth state.
Among the top 10 brands, L'Oreal, Procter & Gamble, and Henkel brands occupy 6 seats, and domestic products occupy 4 seats. Among them, Vitesse is the brand with the highest GMV and the highest year-on-year growth rate (over 158%) among the TOP20 brands in China; SPES and Tong Ren Tang ranked second and third among domestic products, but both fell by double digits year-on-year.
Procter & Gamble's Pantene and Head & Shoulders both maintained double-digit growth, while L'Oreal and Henkel brands declined or remained flat to varying degrees.
Ruyi, which ranks among the top 17 in beauty and skin care/body/essential oils with a growth rate of more than 150%, also ranks among the top 17 in the hair care/wig track, with a growth rate of more than 40%. The brand has 2.27 million fans in the Tmall flagship store, with monthly sales of 100,000+ products and more than 30 products.
Proya's off&relax GMV exceeded 100 million yuan, and maintained a high growth rate of over 66%. According to Proya's financial report, the brand's revenue in 2023 will increase by 71.2% year-on-year to 215 million yuan, and revenue in the first half of 2024 will increase by 41.91% year-on-year to 138 million yuan. According to the performance of Tmall's main channel in the first three quarters, the brand is still expected to maintain a high growth level.
Store dimensions:
In the TOP20, the official flagship stores of international brands occupy 9 seats, the official flagship stores of non-brands occupy 4 seats, and the official flagship stores of domestic brands occupy 7 seats. Among them, the Vitas Tuojia store leads all domestic stores, with a growth rate of more than 3,000%.
The official flagship of foreign-funded cleaning and care brands still increased year-on-year, only Pantene and Fulu Deya; THE OFFICIAL FLAGSHIP STORES OF KÉRASTASE, L'ORÉAL, SCHWARZKOPF, PROCTER & GAMBLE, SASSOON, AND HAIRRECIPE ALL SAW DOUBLE-DIGIT DECLINES.
The official flagship store of domestic brands, Vitesse, Korean medicine grains, and Sky Tree are still growing, among which Sky Tree is a wig brand; SPES, Ziyuan, and Murrayle declined year-on-year.
In Tmall Supermarket, the year-on-year growth rate of hair care products is still very impressive, as high as more than 80%, which is higher than the growth rate of skin care and makeup categories in Tmall Supermarket.
Beauty and body equipment
Brand Dimensions:
Different from the fact that the main seats in the TOP20 categories of skin care, makeup, and hair care are occupied by foreign capital, the category of beauty and body equipment is the main battlefield of domestic brands, and this characteristic is also highly consistent with the Douyin platform.
usmile, the only brand with a GMV of more than 1 billion, is also a domestic product, and the brand focuses on electric toothbrush products.
Jimeng ranks in the TOP3, but the year-on-year growth rate shows a downward trend. On Douyin, Jimeng is the TOP1 beauty device brand.
Of the top 20 brands, only 6 brands are still growing, among which the brands that mainly focus on personal care/beauty devices are basically declining in double digits. It can be seen that the beauty instrument market has shrunk to a certain extent.
Store dimensions:
Different from the above three categories, in the category of beauty and body equipment, the sales of brand official flagship stores are more dominant, and non-brand official stores are not in the TOP10.
Similar to the brand-dimensional data, the official stores of brands focusing on personal care and beauty equipment also showed a double-digit year-on-year decline.
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