From tightening your belt to buying with a ticket to purchasing freely, from an empty vegetable basket to a table with abundant ingredients, from food and clothing to eating well and eating healthy...... In the 75 years since the founding of the People's Republic of China, the food categories on the tables of the people in Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture have become more and more abundant.
Dietary memory
Having a full meal is the happiest thing
Seven things to open the door, firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, tea, all of them are closely related to eating. Talking about his former life, Sina Yongci, a 90-year-old man from Yanmen Township, Deqin County, opened the conversation. "When we were young, food was scarce, food was rationed, and my family had ten brothers and sisters, and the whole family didn't dare to let go of their stomachs to eat. Sometimes, when they are hungry, they will pick up the undigested barley grains in the horse manure, wash them with water, and eat them raw directly when they are hungry. ”
At that time, the staple food on the table of the masses was coarse grains such as cornmeal and barley flour, and the vegetables were mainly Chinese cabbage, radishes, and potatoes "three major pieces of plateau", and most of the dishes on the table of every household were similar, the food types were scarce and monotonous, and every bite of food was extraordinarily precious, and people's demand for food was only "to be full", and it was the most luxurious thing to be able to eat a full meal during the New Year's holidays.
"In those days, where did I ever think about whether I ate deliciously, I remember working in the fields every day, and what I had to eat when I went home. Because he always can't eat enough, he weighed only sixty or seventy pounds when he was young, and his face was yellow and thin. During the New Year's holidays, if a chicken is killed at home, the whole family of more than ten people will have to divide a chicken in the order of the old and the young, and in the end it may just get some shredded meat. Now it's different, living conditions are getting better and better. The old man recalled.
In the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, grain stamps were the "passes" on the dining table of every household, grain distribution was carried out strictly according to plan, and market supply was relatively tight. However, with the deepening of reform and opening up and the advancement of agricultural modernization, the food supply system has undergone earth-shaking changes. Food stamps are gradually being phased out of history, replaced by open markets and an abundance of choice. In the past, the staple food on the plateau was mainly coarse grains such as barley and corn, which were of a single type and difficult to meet the diverse nutritional needs. Nowadays, fine grains such as rice and wheat have become frequent guests on the daily dining table, complementing whole grains such as barley and oats, and the staple food structure is more balanced.
Since the 75th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China, Diqing Prefecture has also achieved a historic leap in grain production. According to statistics, in recent years, the total sown area of grain crops in the state has been expanding, and the total output has repeatedly reached new highs, providing a solid guarantee for the people's dining table. This change not only demonstrates the unremitting efforts of Diqing Prefecture in agricultural development, but also reflects the in-depth implementation of the national policy of benefiting farmers and the continuous progress of agricultural science and technology.
The type of diet
The metamorphosis from singular to pluralistic
With the development of the times, the integration of modern food culture not only enriches the dining table of the people in the plateau area, but also promotes the inheritance and innovation of food culture. The advancement of urbanization has exposed the people of Diqing to more diversified ingredients and cooking methods, and seafood, vegetables and other foods that were originally scarce in the plateau have gradually become frequent guests at the table.
"Now there are more and more Chinese New Year's Eve dinners, and this year I went to the market to buy a lot of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs, flower nails, river mussels and other ingredients to make a seafood feast, which was rare in our Diqing Plateau in the past, and also brought us a different taste." Zhuoma, who lives in Jiantang Town, Shangri-La City, introduced with a smile.
Zhang Shixin, an elderly man in his 70s who lives in Shangri-La City, has to make a pot of butter tea every day, soak it in cheese, and drink a cup. In his words: "If you don't drink a cup of butter tea one day, you feel uncomfortable." Zhang Shixin's son Du Ji has completely different tastes. Contrary to his father's habit of preferring butter tea, Duji drinks a cup of coffee every morning. "A cup of coffee every day is the day when it really begins," he said. ”
With the great improvement of traffic conditions and the vigorous development of tourism, Diqing Tibetan cuisine continues to innovate and integrate on the basis of retaining traditional flavors. Traditional delicacies such as tsamba and butter tea are still popular, but more diverse ingredients and cooking methods have been introduced. The food culture of Han, Naxi, Bai and other ethnic groups converges here, and the menu of Tibetan restaurants also appears Han dishes such as crispy pork ribs and braised beef, as well as ethnic flavors such as Dai cold fungus and lemon "sa skimming". At the same time, a variety of vegetables such as peppers, lettuce, eggplants, and cucumbers can also be grown in high-altitude areas, enriching the dietary structure of the people. These changes not only satisfy the taste buds of tourists, but also improve the quality of life of ordinary people, showing the innovation of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in "food".
Inheritance and development of food
Plateau agricultural products to the world
Over the past 75 years since the founding of the People's Republic of China, Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture has relied on its unique natural conditions, and plateau characteristic industries such as barley, edible mushrooms, grapes, and Chinese medicinal materials have flourished, which has not only enriched the people's dining table, but also driven the rapid growth of the local economy. In recent years, the planting area of highland barley has been steadily expanded, and deep-processed products such as highland barley beer and highland barley biscuits have been exported to home and abroad, winning market recognition. The edible mushroom industry has become a business card of Diqing, especially matsutake mushrooms, with an annual output that occupies an important share of the domestic and foreign markets. The grape industry has sprung up and become a shining pearl of plateau agriculture. Its high altitude, low latitude and large temperature difference between day and night have produced unrivalled high-quality grapes and have won many international awards. By the end of 2023, the planting area of wine grapes in the state will be 19,000 mu, with a comprehensive output value of 614 million yuan, involving 5,000 planting farmers, achieving a per capita income of 3,500 yuan and an average household income of 13,800 yuan. Through the introduction of modern planting technology and processing methods, the standardization level of Diqing Chinese herbal medicine industrial base has been significantly improved, and the processing subject has been continuously enhanced. At present, the planting area of Chinese medicinal materials in the state exceeds 125,800 mu, with an annual output value of about 843 million yuan, which has become an important force to promote regional economic development. Similarly, the livestock and poultry breeding industry has undergone a profound transformation from tradition to modernity, and has gradually formed an industrial system with yak, Tibetan pigs, Nixi native chickens and other plateau characteristics of livestock and poultry breeding as the core. Through the operation model of "company + base + cooperative + farmer", it not only improves the ability of breeding technology and market docking, but also realizes large-scale, standardized and green production. A total of 102 leading agricultural enterprises at or above the county level have been identified, 2,234 farmer cooperatives have been standardized and upgraded, and 1,151 family farms have been managed in the directory. A total of 210 "three products and one standard" products have been certified, and 10 national famous and excellent new products have been certified. The development of agriculture with plateau characteristics has led to the growth of farmers' net operating income.
Nowadays, the food culture of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is no longer limited to the snowy plateau, but has taken advantage of the east wind of the new era to the whole country and even the world. Shangri-La Yak Ganba, Ice Wine, Canned Chili Pepper, Tibetan Pear Paste, Quinoa Barley Porridge and other plateau agricultural products have become popular commodities in the market with their unique taste and rich nutritional value, and are sold at home and abroad. Precious ingredients such as matsutake mushrooms and black truffles are also quickly delivered to the tables of consumers across the country through e-commerce platforms and cold chain logistics. In addition, traditional delicacies such as "blowing liver", rice sausage, milk residue, and tartary buckwheat baba, on the basis of retaining the original flavor, continue to innovate cooking methods, attracting many domestic and foreign tourists to come to taste, and promoting cultural exchanges and dissemination.
In the past, people pursued satiety and abundance, but now, green, healthy and nutritious have become the new fashion on the table. The common people pay more attention to the original taste and nutritional balance of the ingredients, reduce the dependence on high-oil, high-salt and high-sugar foods such as butter tea, and instead prefer coarse grains, wild vegetables, plateau special ingredients and organic food. This transformation is not only reflected in the daily diet of the people, but also integrated into the festival celebrations and hospitality, gradually forming a healthy food culture, showing the higher pursuit and wisdom inheritance of the people of Diqing for a better life.
Diqing Daily reporter here is only Ma
Yunbao all-media reporter Tan Yazhu, Zhang Fan, Ma Zhe, Zhao Lihuai, Yang Zishuang, Li Tiecheng, Peng Shaojie, Gongqiu Tsering
Editor-in-charge: Yi Keyan
Responsible proofreader Yang Yang
Editor-in-chief: Yan Yun
Final review: Editorial Board Member Liu Chao