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Towards high-end, intelligent and green - the garment industry "weaves" to create the future

Towards high-end, intelligent and green - the garment industry "weaves" to create the future

On July 2, the People's Daily (overseas edition) reported on the new development achievements of the textile and garment industry with the title of "Towards High-end, Intelligent and Green - Garment Industry "Weaving" to Create the Future", which is now published in full here.

Towards high-end, intelligent and green - the garment industry "weaves" to create the future

The picture shows the interior of the flagship store of the high-end men's wear brand of Dayang Group

Towards high-end, intelligent and green - the garment industry "weaves" to create the future

In the knitting workshop of the second knitting factory of Ordos Cashmere Garment Group, the stopper is knitting with a computerized flat knitting machine

Towards high-end, intelligent and green - the garment industry "weaves" to create the future

The picture shows the intelligent cutting workshop of Dayang Group's Yangerte factory

Towards high-end, intelligent and green - the garment industry "weaves" to create the future

The picture shows the exterior of Ordos Modern Cashmere Industrial Park

(The above pictures are all data pictures)

General Secretary Xi Jinping pointed out: "The transformation and upgrading of traditional industries can also develop new quality productivity. "In the past, clothing, furniture, and home appliances were exported in large quantities and became popular overseas. Nowadays, the "old three" has accelerated the transformation of high-end, intelligent and green, and has been constantly renewed, and Made in China has firmly moved forward with the goal of high-quality development. The changes of the times of the "old three" record the footprints of development. From now on, this edition will launch a series of reports on the "Old Three" rejuvenation.

Tap the screen, choose your favorite fabric and style, and a piece of clothing designed by yourself will be presented in front of you, turn the body of the virtual character, and you can also see the drape and folds of the clothing under the dynamic; In the production workshop, intelligent cutting, intelligent hanging, intelligent logistics and other systems perform their duties, and the machine automatically opens bags and trims, and the work efficiency is greatly improved; In the sales scenario, new technologies such as AI are fully applied in digital marketing, digital stores, and smart shopping guides, and there is a new experience for shopping for clothes...... In recent years, a large number of garment enterprises have devoted themselves to the digital economy, accelerated transformation and upgrading, and technology, fashion and green have become the key words and new trends in the development of China's garment industry.

The development of new quality productivity is an intrinsic requirement and an important focus for promoting high-quality development. It has become the consensus of the garment industry to grasp the historic opportunities brought about by the new round of scientific and technological revolution and industrial transformation, and to use new technologies for transformation and upgrading. How can enterprises promote their own high-end, intelligent and green development? In this regard, this newspaper conducted an interview.

With a simple touch screen operation, you can choose fabrics, styles, colors, processes, etc., and design and match your own clothing...... On the USTYLIT clothing customization industrial Internet platform developed by Dayang Group, consumers can easily complete personalized clothing customization.

For traditional garment production, private customization has pain points such as high production cost, long manufacturing cycle, and difficulty in large-scale production and promotion. In order to break through this bottleneck, it is necessary to reform the production process and continuously optimize the flexibility of the supply chain through intelligent transformation.

"Whether it is in terms of technological innovation, digital construction, or the formulation of development strategies, we have always focused on the keyword of innovation." Hu Dongmei, general manager of Dayang Group, introduced that in order to solve the pain points of customized clothing, the company has continued to invest in the construction of a special intelligent flexible customization factory, which organically combines intelligent manufacturing, industrial Internet and personalized customization to realize the whole process of intelligent services such as intelligent measurement, intelligent ordering, intelligent pattern making, and intelligent production.

The first step to creating a custom garment is to measure it. This step can be directly measured by the consumer online using the APP, or measured on-site by the physical body measuring technician in the physical store. After the customer selects the style, fabric accessories, accessories, etc., the system conducts 3D modeling, and the data is directly delivered to the factory.

After the factory receives the order, the intelligent typesetting can be formed in only 2 seconds, and then the proportional size is mapped on the cutting machine in the form of projection, and the machine automatically cuts it, which can be completed in about one minute. The first version of the cut is transmitted to each process by the intelligent hanging system, and the workers then carry out the next step of processing and production. According to the traditional practice, the design of a piece of clothing needs to go through multiple links such as drawing design drafts, 2D pattern making, material preparation, proofing, and sample modification, which requires the cooperation of more than a dozen departments. If there is a slight deviation in the sample clothes, you have to go through the process again, which takes at least half a month.

In the production workshop of Dalian Maoda Fashion Co., Ltd. of Dayang Group, the processes are carried out in an orderly manner, and nearly 1,000 suits are rolled off the assembly line here every day. The intelligent hanging transmission system grabs the "parts" of the garment such as cuffs, collars, and plackets, and accurately delivers them to workers in various positions.

A suit shoulder sewing worker told reporters: "Because it is a customized garment, the processing process and requirements of each piece are different. You see, this one needs to be sewn with a shoulder seam, and the other one doesn't. "In front of his processing table, there's a display that shows the specific tailoring needs of different parts of the garment." In the past, we had to distinguish between different production requirements on paper custom sheets, but now they are all digital. Although it is customized, the efficiency is not at all lower than that of mass production. For example, I can make about 700 pieces a day in this sewing process. According to the workshop director, after using the intelligent system, the efficiency has increased by more than 30% compared with before.

Wu Jiang, deputy general manager of Dayang Group, told reporters that in 1979, more than 80 rural women, under the leadership of the founder Li Guilian, moved their own sewing machines and established the then Xinjin County Yangshufang Garment Factory, which was the predecessor of Dayang. At the beginning, garment factories mainly undertook foreign orders for "processing with incoming materials". Later, the company closely followed the market demand, and gradually explored the consumer-led "on-demand customization" production model, and changed the focus from processing and mass production to clothing design, flexible production, personalized customization and other fields.

"We independently develop the production management information system, integrate order management, measurement data, material stocking, production processes, terminal stores and other resources, link more than 6,000 supply chain enterprises around the world, a custom suit to place an order to complete the production of the fastest only 3 working days. In this way, it can meet the needs of large-scale single-quantity single-ruling production. Hu Dongmei said.

Today, through digital transformation, Dayang has built 7 intelligent production factories and 40 intelligent production lines, realizing a customized production model of multiple varieties, small batches, high quality and rapid response, and its own brand suits are sold all over the world. Pulandian District, Dalian City, Liaoning Province, where Dayang is located, has gathered more than 400 textile and garment enterprises, and has been awarded the "China Famous Suit City" and "China Famous Garment Intelligent Manufacturing City".

In addition to actively adapting to the digital wave, the apparel industry is also moving towards green and sustainable development.

Walking into the factory of Ordos Cashmere Garment Group in Ordos City, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, you can see a fully automatic computerized flat knitting machine weaving a piece of cashmere yarn into a piece of cashmere sweater according to the process design drawings that have been entered.

"The full-forming computerized flat knitting machine we use is currently the most advanced one in the world, a yarn is formed and woven at one time, and it is 1/3 of the electricity consumption of ordinary computerized flat knitting machines." Fan Zhongyi, manager of Ordos Knitting Factory No. 1, said that unlike ordinary equipment, the full molding equipment can achieve integrated garments, shorten the overall process, reduce labor, and reduce costs.

Yang Qiang, director of the knitting workshop of the first knitting factory, introduced that the production of ordinary cashmere sweaters is to weave and sew the front body, back body and sleeves separately, while the production of full molding is a line of garments, which are woven out at one time in a three-dimensional way, which avoids the bottleneck process of manual stitching, and can be worn directly after weaving, making it more comfortable and fitting.

From cashmere collection, cashmere selection, to cleaning, carding, dyeing, to spinning, weaving, garment, final inspection, ironing, packaging, cashmere thread into cashmere sweater for sale, a total of more than 120 processes have to be experienced. The concept of sustainable development also runs through every link.

For example, in the cashmere washing process, Ordos's self-developed ultrasonic cleaning and washing technology can remove the dust and impurities attached to the cashmere more thoroughly, while saving 20% of water. In the dyeing process, the factory adopts micro-suspension dyeing technology, plant dye dyeing technology, phosphorus-free decolorization technology, etc., so that cashmere can obtain bright colors, and at the same time protect the quality characteristics of cashmere natural fibers to the greatest extent, and achieve water saving of more than 50%.

"Our current dyeing production line uses the industry's most advanced automatic dyeing machine, with the automatic dyeing auxiliaries distribution system networked operation, which can complete the automatic weighing, grabbing and storage, dissolving and distribution of dyeing materials, reducing human error and improving the accuracy of color control." Wang Zhiguo, director of the dyeing workshop, said.

Zhou Yu, manager of the equipment management department, told reporters that in line with the green manufacturing concepts of high efficiency, low carbon, and recycling, the company continues to pay attention to the control of water, electricity and other energy and chemical substances in the actual production process, so as to achieve a reasonable and gradual decline in consumption. Ordos has formulated and implemented green production standards for the whole industry chain and the whole life cycle from cashmere goat breeding and breeding, cashmere grading and application, whole-process processing and manufacturing to waste cashmere recycling, and has been recognized as the first batch of "green design", "green products" and "green factories" in the country.

"We have promoted various water-saving technological transformations, including steam condensate recycling and reuse, initial rainwater collection and reuse, municipal reclaimed water introduction and pollution reduction, wastewater recycling, etc. After years of efforts, the reverse osmosis membrane sewage treatment technology adopted in the park has made the sewage reuse rate reach more than 70%, saving 300,000 cubic meters of water resources annually. Zhou Yu said.

Nowadays, consumers have a growing demand for high-quality, high-performance, and green textile and apparel products. On the product side, the "recycled cashmere" series products in Ordos's "Good SHàN Series" are to recycle old cashmere products and then spin them into yarn for weaving fabrics to reduce production waste.

Wang Zhen, president of Ordos Group and chairman of Ordos Resources Co., Ltd., said in an interview with this newspaper that the first thing about new productivity is innovation. For Ordos, it is necessary to empower industrial transformation and upgrading with science and technology, drive the high-end development of the industry with brand remodeling and renewal, and promote the transformation of the industrial chain to green, move towards high, and move towards the new.

"Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do. It is our responsibility to protect the grasslands, balance the environmental impact of industrial production, and promote sustainability to consumers and the apparel industry as a whole. Wang Zhen said that he hopes to lead the industry to take the road of green and high-quality development through the sustainable development practice of the whole cashmere industry chain.

A basic T-shirt has 3 colors and 5 sizes, adding up to 15 SKUs (inventory holding unit, that is, the unit of measurement of inventory in and out, which can be in pieces, boxes, pallets, etc., and is commonly used in clothing and footwear products. "In the past, we only had more than 1,000 styles, but now there are more than 20,000 models on sale on various platforms at the same time, how to manage these more than 300,000 SKUs? During the interview, Liu Weiwen, general manager of Huizhou Jeanswest Electric Trade Branch of Glorious Sun Trading (China) Co., Ltd., threw out such a question.

When it comes to Jeanswest's clothing, Chinese are no strangers. In 1993, Jeanswest opened its first store in mainland China on Nanjing East Road in Shanghai, and since then has opened stores in pedestrian streets in major cities across the country, bringing the casual wear category to thousands of households. At its peak in 2014, Jeanswest had more than 3,000 physical stores.

For a long time, Jeanswest was a "single-line supply chain model". However, with the rise of e-commerce, the development environment of the industry has changed dramatically. Inaccurate production forecasting, low efficiency of production collaboration, difficulty in factory order supervision, difficulty in multi-SKU management, and low efficiency in inventory management...... It has become a pain point that plagues the development of the traditional clothing industry.

"The traditional single-line supply chain model has problems such as poor supply-side guidance information and delayed decision-making. Just like what style customers like, we don't know until they walk into the store and have a purchase behavior, and then feed back to the factory, this cycle is very long, and when the clothing is produced, maybe it is no longer popular. Liu Weiwen said.

In 2009, Jeanswest opened its first online store and built its own ERP (enterprise resource planning) system, becoming the first clothing brand to realize O2O omni-channel and multi-warehouse and multi-store delivery. Since 2018, Jeanswest has been focusing on online sales, transforming from clothing retail to brand management.

Going back to the question posed at the beginning, the answer is digital.

Through the digital middle platform, Jeanswest can grasp consumer information in real time, including the styles browsed by customers, the purchase time selected, the purchase quantity, etc. By visualizing this data, you can develop precise product development and brand sales strategies. At the same time, mobilize partners in the industrial chain to share data with raw material supply, logistics support, franchise sales and other parties to achieve agile production and sales.

In the eyes of practitioners, there is a profound background behind the development of the new quality productivity of the garment industry. The rapid development of new technologies such as the Internet, cloud computing, and big data, as well as new models such as live e-commerce and community marketing, have boosted the continuous release of clothing consumption potential.

"In the past, when it came to the garment industry, the first thing that came to mind was the picture of garment production, and the manufacturing industry was very strong, because our garment industry was mainly export-oriented, focusing on large quantities and excellent prices, and winning with cost performance; Nowadays, the market as a whole is in a state of oversupply, and consumer demand for clothing is more segmented and changing faster. "How do you meet consumer needs quickly and accurately? Liu Weiwen believes that in addition to product innovation, business model innovation is also particularly important.

The core of this new business model lies in the introduction of platform thinking and the improvement of the quality and efficiency of each link through technological innovation. The front-end integrates the traffic data of the e-commerce platform, and the back-end mobilizes the resources of all parties in the supply chain, and Jeanswest has built an industrial ecology with efficient linkage between the front and back ends. Under this ecosystem, the whole link is opened up from planning, design, selection, opening, and testing, to commodity operation, quality control, logistics, warehousing, distribution, etc.

Open the Jeanswest store on each e-commerce platform, and the content presented is not the same. This is because the system generates tags based on the customer's browsing history, purchase habits, etc., forming a "thousands of people, thousands of faces" display page, and pushing the content that the customer is most likely to be interested in as much as possible.

"Before, it took us 45 days to turn over an order, but now it only takes 2 days. The time to turn over orders has become shorter, but the ability to contribute has become stronger. Liu Weiwen said that the factory prepared noodles and accessories in advance, and the market testing mechanism quickly found the best-selling models, and on this basis, the rapid replenishment of goods allowed consumers to experience the latest fashion trends in a timely manner. At present, Jeanswest is committed to promoting the optimization and upgrading of the industrial chain and supply chain, accelerating the development of modern producer service industry, and achieving the effect of "accurate purchase, fast production and inventory reduction".

Article source: People's Daily (Overseas Edition)

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