#我来唠家常#
In the summer of Beijing, I love sour plum soup
In the summer of Guangdong, I love herbal tea
Summer in the northwest, love cool skin
What about summer in Gangnam?
Needless to say, can you take less bad goods!!
It's a bad season
Any ingredient can be used by the people in the free shipping area to make a mess
How bad is it?
Today, follow Fengwujun to "eat and see"
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▲ Figure/from the network
If you want to ask what the bad thing is, then Shanghai Ning is going to laugh at Nong.
It's bad, it's delicious, don't be too comfortable to eat in this summer. This bad thing may be a bad chicken, a bad duck, or a bad goose, a bad belly, a bad chicken wings, or a bad chicken feet. Of course, the most homely thing is the bad edamame.
A plate of, two bottles of cold beer, and the heat wave in the hall, as if summer had just blown over.
Eat bad, the romantic story in "Chu Ci".
▲ Picture / Taomost kitchen
Bad, not counting, but also add goods - bad goods, these two Chinese characters with worrying imagery, when they meet the Chinese, they immediately turn decay into magic, and become fragrant and delicious.
This is from ancient times. The ancients used grain to make wine, and the remaining dregs were sake lees. And the food grains, according to records, appeared as early as the pre-Qin period.
When Qu Yuan felt by the river: "The world is turbid, I am alone, everyone is drunk, and I am sober." But the fisherman replied, "Everyone is drunk, so why don't you feed it and make it bad." Although it is difficult to read, it is not difficult to get a glimpse of the scene of the diet of the pre-Qin ancients. Iron, thin wine also. A group of well-dressed princes sat on the ground, holding wine lees and drinking thin wine. Later, this sentence turned into an idiom "feeding the bad and the bad", describing following the crowd.
▲ Bad meat. Figure/Marketchart.com
The trend of eating bad food has been opened all the way with the pre-Qin legacy, and with the fragrance of wine, it has become the demeanor of the Wei and Jin dynasties in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. At this time, eating bad food is no longer as difficult to swallow as the pre-Qin sheng swallowed the dregs and bran, and the bad goods have evolved into the stunner of bad meat.
Bad thing: It doesn't exist
▲ Bad crab. Photo/Visual China
How great is the charm of bad goods? Just look at the record in the "Qing Yilu":
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Emperor Yang Xingjiangdu, Wuzhong Gong Bad Crab. Every time you enter the palace, you will spin and clean the shell surface, and stick it with a gold dragon and phoenix flower cloud.
”
This is the basic attitude of foodies towards food. Before the emperor eats it, he must wipe the crab shell with his own hands and paste it with an exclusive gold engraving dragon and phoenix pattern, how rare is this? !
▲ The eighth episode of "Dream of Red Mansions", "Baoyu praised the good goose paws of her sister-in-law in Dongfu the day before yesterday." Aunt Xue hurriedly took her own bad and gave it to him to taste. Baoyu smiled and said, "This is good for wine!" and Aunt Xue ordered someone to pour high-quality wine. It is not difficult to see that the "bad goose paw duck letter" should also be a common appetizer in the Grand View Garden. Photo/mini.eastday.com
Flipping through literary masterpieces, bad goods still abound. There is a time in "Water Margin": "But there is a second brother Tang in Zhencheng County who sells bad pickles, called Tang Niuer." At this time, selling bad goods became a profession for traders to earn a living, which shows its popularity.
Looking at "Dream of Red Mansions" again, Baoyu especially likes to eat Aunt Xue's bad goose paws, and the bad quail in the kitchen of Jiafu has also entered Jia's mother's blue eyes, and she wants to tear one or two calf meat to taste the taste, which shows its deliciousness.
Tang Lusun also left a precious memory in his "Tang Lusun Eating Talk": the bad fish must be made of herring, the live herring is rubbed all over the inside and outside of the fish with large seed salt, pickled and dried, and then impregnated with wine, until the fiber is tough, the meat is red, and the original liquor is piled on the fish pieces, plus ginger, green onions, and diced lard, which is steamed at a simmer, and the quality is fragrant, and it is intoxicating.
▲ Bad chicken. Photo/Visual China
In the gourmet's "Suiyuan Food List", there are more bad meat, bad chicken, bad fish, and bad vegetables, and even the vegetables are used to make a mess, and what you eat is that taste.
Suzhou gourmand Lu Wenfu has a perception of this, he said: "The taste of bad goods is more mellow than wine, lighter than sauce, it is a kind of indifference after reading all the vicissitudes of life, and at the same time, it naturally has a deep aftertaste that is old and sophisticated." "All I can say is, precise!
You see, with the blessings of so many big names, you know how hard the bad body (post) life (Taiwan) is, you know, right?
The red sun is scorching, not "suffering" but drunk
▲ Picture/Screenshot from the documentary "Taste of Shanghai"
In this way, with patience and strength, the bad guy broke out of the bad word. It's not bad, it's not dross, it's bad, and it's self-contained. Bai Pu, an opera artist in the Yuan Dynasty, said about it: "The two names of the bad are the rise and fall of the ages." The common people are more direct: "Everything that is imported can be bad." ”
Bad food is a wonder in the food world, and it's not just in Shanghai. Some people have verified that the history of bad goods has been at least three points in the world.
One point of the world is the red lees of Fujian cuisine, the color of the dishes is bright, and the lees of red yeast wine are indispensable; the second part of the world is the white lees of Shandong, represented by the lees of the fish fillet of the lees, made of liquor or rice lees, which is famous in Qilu; the three parts of the world is the fragrant lees of Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai today, made of the lees of rice wine, the dregs are made of orange and yellow, and they are the kitchen treasures of the housewives in the south of the Yangtze River.
▲ Picture/Screenshot from the documentary "Taste of Shanghai"
Jiangnan has been a rice producing area since ancient times, and it is also the hometown of rice wine, and folk farmers have the habit of brewing rice wine, which is commonly known as "old white wine", and it becomes rice wine with a little red cake. After the autumn harvest, the grains enter the warehouse, and every household makes rice wine one after another. If there is more wine, there will naturally be more sake lees.
In the old days, when you eat bad food, you need to spend a lot of effort to make bad stew first. For eating, Chinese have always been not afraid of trouble. First, grind the sake lees repeatedly into a paste, pour in the rice wine, add a little salt, and then stir with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a saucer, leave it for more than half a day, and finally filter out the juice with gauze. Cooked food is cooked and cooled, and then soaked in brine and lees.
Another method of raw lees has a unique flavor, mix the lees and rice wine according to the proportion, add water to make a bad mud, paste it on the raw food, refrigerate it for three days, take it out and rinse it, and then steam or cook the soup, the aroma is unique.
▲ Picture/Where to eat in Shanghai
The key to the cooked dregs lies in the "hanging dregs and brine", and the connoisseurs measure the standards of the dregs with two words, one is "positive" and the other is "elegant". Zheng, which means that the taste should be strong and mellow, in addition to the dregs as the main ingredient, a certain amount of rice wine, salt, bay leaves and cinnamon should be added to stimulate the slightly drunk taste of the sake lees;
After all the flavors are complete, they cannot be burned or boiled, otherwise the alcohol will volatilize and become a bowl of salt water. The so-called "hanging" means that it should be slightly warmed over low heat, soaked for a long time and soaked slowly, and finally let the flavor fuse, which can be regarded as a qualified bad marinade.
Speaking of the bad food in the hotel, the chef usually selects the old bad mud himself, dissolves it with a certain proportion of water, boils it, filters it, and adds salt and spices. For proportional ingredients, each family has its own secret recipe.
▲ Make the dregs. Photo/sohu.com
Drunk and bad are both based on wine, so there is a saying of "bad drunk family", but there is still a difference between the two.
The taste of bad goods is mellow, and the taste of drunken vegetables is clear. Food master Zhao Heng has a high opinion in "Gluttonous Manbi", he said that the difference between bad and drunk is that there is "fire" and no "fire". Bad, it is slowly infiltrated, it takes effort, and the fire is removed.
If you taste it according to my taste, it is also a cold dish, and the bad food has a more layered, delicate and changeable taste, which needs to be savored carefully, so that the flavor blooms layer by layer on the tip of the tongue. In the mouth, the texture of the ingredients themselves is crisp, glutinous, or tough, and then there is a faint aroma of wine. Again, there are different flavors of fragrance. Bad takes time, and time produces thick things.
Life is not so bad
▲ Photo/Visual China
For Shanghainese, if there is no bad smell, summer will be bad!
Walking on the streets of Shanghai, you can sometimes see the red paper that reads: "Bad goods are on the market". The most beautiful thing in the summer night of the old Shanghainese is to bring a few bad goods home after work, and in the hot weather, blow the cool breeze of the summer night, come to a few dishes of bad goods, and drink old wine.
▲ Figure/sohu.com
Every summer, deli in Shanghai will set up a special window to start selling bad goods.
In the past, the bad goods were mainly white meat, door cavity, pork belly, and foot paws. Occasionally, there will be bad hairtail, bad duck gizzard and bad hoof ring, which are all rare. Nowadays, all kinds of winged claw seafood have also joined the bad food team, and they will get by, and when they buy bad goods, they will let the store add more bad stew, and go home to use the braised dregs to order edamame and the like, which is really delicious.
▲ Picture/Little Red Book @ Start Food
Whether it is looking for the bad brine that you want from a time-honored brand, or the bad brine and bad oil bought in the market, it is easier for bad goods to be put on the dinner table of ordinary people than in the past. It's also a very interesting process to do bad things. All sorts of bad stuff will suddenly make your summer table lively.
For beginners, it's a good idea to practice from bad edamame or bad chicken feet. Make a small mouth with scissors on both ends of the edamame, pour water and a little fennel into the pot, cook for 15 minutes, and then soak it in the marinade. Soak for half an hour with a light taste, and soak for a day with a heavy taste. When I opened the food box, the aroma of sake lees came to my face, and I pinched a bend of bean pods, soaked and plump bean grains, and slid into my throat with the salty and fragrant juice, which is the best accompaniment to alcohol.
▲ Figure/paipai.com
The bad goods have a bearing, a big heart, big meat, small fish and shrimp can come to its bowl.
Let's talk about meat dishes first, the original greasy and smelly ingredients such as door cavity and pork belly will be dissipated immediately after the fat is bad, and it tastes fat but not greasy. The most popular bad chicken by diners, the inner quality is tender and not scattered, it is the great love of diners, if you soak a little chicken gizzards, chicken feet, chicken hearts and other "pieces" in the dregs and marinade, and slice the wine, its beauty is simply indescribable. The snail is also refreshing, tender and chewy.
▲ Hot food dregs. Figure/Marketchart.com
How can you not say "bad bowl"? It is similar to Huizhou Yipin pot.
The dregs are cooked and there are at least two ways to eat them. One is to make cold dishes, pig heart and lungs, pig trotters, pig liver, pig intestines, pork belly, pig liver, pig feet, pork belly, pork belly, etc. After boiling and cooling, drain the water, put it in the prepared spice marinade, soak it for about a day and start eating.
The second is hot food, the pig offal, pork and other ingredients that were not in the elegant hall in the past, all put into the bowl, plus ham, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, gluten and other "good ingredients", with the broth simmer, slow cook in a small bowl for several hours until crispy, and finally turn off the fire, add the bad brine, turn the stone into gold, sprinkle some green garlic and serve on the table, this bowl is bad, sweet and rich, it can be called a must.
Eat badly, it should be so vivid.