Interface News Reporter | Huang Shan
Interface News Editor | Lou Jingqin
The use of complex mechanical watchmaking techniques to convey the aesthetic and technological expressions related to nature, humanity and art is also an important part of the annual "Watches and Wonders" Haute Horlogerie exhibition in Geneva. Some watch brands with master craftsmanship or high jewellery craftsmanship often choose to release stunning craft watches during this period to showcase the brand's high level of watchmaking, unique aesthetics and exceptional artistic taste.
At the 2024 watch exhibition, Jiemian News reporters saw the continuation of the popularity of mechanical automaton. This mechanical device, which was once prevalent in European society before the advent of mass media, combining clocks and playfulness, has returned to the public eye in recent years, driven by a well-established commercial brand with Van Cleef & Arpels at its core.
Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled two new automatons with a height of about 30 centimeters. Considering that the total production of these automatons has taken tens of thousands of hours in previous years, Van Cleef & Arpels has launched new creations for three consecutive years, which also shows that the automatrons are becoming more and more sophisticated.
In 2022, Van Cleef & Arpels teamed up with François Junod, an automaton master in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, to create the Fontaine aux Oiseaux, which won the Grand Prix d'Or for Best Mechanical Clock at the 2022 GPHG Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. François Junod is also Van Cleef & Arpels' master of creating new robots each year, each of which brings together techniques passed down through generations of master craftsmen, including gemologists, enamellers, engravers and setters.
梵克雅宝全新EXTRAORDINARY OBJECTS非凡瑰宝系列
APPEARANCE OF BAYS绿野秘境自动机械装置
This automatic mechanism depicts the opening and closing of rose gold leaves. When the leaves slowly bloom, the roses bud and the little bird made of white gold that hides inside flutters its wings and comes to life. The bird is surrounded by diamonds and sapphires.
For this masterpiece, the Atelier de Van Cleef & Arpels has developed a new rotation system that controls the opening and closing of the green dome, perfectly matched to the mechanism designed by François Junod. The installation consists of 112 overlapping blades, rich and delicate.
In addition, the base of this mechanism consists of two pieces of Dalmatian jasper, as well as a stone basin made of rare pink manganese zoisite. The stones are selected by Van Cleef & Arpels' gemologists and then carefully cut and polished by artisans.
The reading part of the mechanism is located at the waist of the Shotai mechanism, while the hands are replaced by a white gold pink butterfly perched on a rose gold twig. The time scale ring rotates constantly, and the time point will coincide with the position of the pink butterfly, which is full of fun. The rotating scale ring is set with gold beads, while the indexes are made of yellow gold and diamonds.
When the Wildland automaton is activated, a beautiful carillon melody will sound. The movement is equipped with a movement with a power reserve of eight days.
BOUTON D'OR flowing gold fairy automaton
Inspired by Van Cleef & Arpels' rich jewellery tradition, the "Golden Fairy" automaton reinterprets the soft curves of the paillette's sequins.
The theme of haute couture has been a significant part of the history of Van Cleef & Arpels. Created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the mid-1930s, the "paillette" sequin motif is a concave or convex piece of metal that resembles the embroidered sequins of haute couture, adorning the world of jewellery with a myriad of vivid and realistic shapes, including a delicate bouquet of yellow gold.
This automaton depicts fairies wearing diamond tiaras and blue rose gold feathers dancing on a field of flowers when the buds are in full bloom. The fairy's face is set with rose-cut diamonds, fluttering its Plique-à-jour stained glass enamel wings, dancing gracefully on tiptoe and clash with the pear-shaped diamonds between her fingers.
It is worth noting that the new "Golden Fairy" automaton is based on another automaton launched in 2022, the Rêveries de Berylline "Dream of the Green Hummingbird", and its mechanical structure has been studied in depth to produce precise technical results.
The curved gold foil on the device is assembled by hand and polished several times to create the metal's own glow. A total of 684 foils were painted with an airbrush and traditional techniques to enhance the vivid color of each color, and finally combined by hand.
The base of the unit is made of pink manganese zoisite, as well as charroite, which is complemented by color and luster.
In addition to automata, some traditional grandfather clocks have a more modern aesthetic expression. For example, the Chanel watch creative studio came up with a multi-complication table clock based on the Chanel Haute Couture atelier.
香奈儿MUSICAL CLOCK COUTURE WORKSHOP座钟
As a haute couture house that has made a name for itself with its No. 5 fragrance, haute couture and leather handbags, Chanel has also made a name for itself in the field of fine jewelry and watches over the years. Compared to other luxury brands, Chanel's product lines are well-balanced and apply a highly unified set of visual symbols and aesthetics.
The table clock presented at this year's watch fair also embodies CHANEL's signature elements. At the heart of the clock is the "Music Box", on which five halflings stand in a transparent glass dome and dance to the song "My Woman". Reflecting the black-and-white aesthetic of the Maison de la Cambon on the Jean-Ne Haute Couture atelier, the halflings are embellished with sewing needles, thimbles, scissors, pins and bobbins.
It is worth noting that this song, sung by Al Bowlly, is a favorite melody of Mademoiselle Coco Chanel. In historical records, she often hummed this song.
In addition, the top of the glass dome is adorned with diamond-embellished miniature chandeliers, while the base of the table clock in small karat gold is inspired by Chanel's signature quilted upholstered sofa, which echoes Mademoiselle Chanel's apartment.
The clock is positioned on the outside of the table top where the half-length table is placed, and is circled in black and white, similar to the tape measure commonly used in fashion design.
It is important to note that this grandfather clock needs to be wound manually. Chanel designed a necklace in yellow gold and diamonds to serve as a special winding key.
In addition to the table clock, there are also several impressive and complex watches at the 2024 Watch Fair. Unlike large table clocks, craft watches require creativity and complex mechanical techniques in the square dial, which is another complex challenge for professional watchmakers.
Cartier High Jewellery watch in the shape of an animal
The wild and captivating animal has been a signature of Cartier for more than 100 years, and it is not only used in the jewelry collections, but also in Cartier Haute Horlogerie.
At this year's show, the image of a crocodile is entrenched on the dial, while the majestic tiger and another crocodile are looking straight ahead on different models. These lifelike animal figures are the result of Cartier's use of rich and precious materials.
For example, in an alligator model, Cartier uses a diamond heart to set the entrenched dragon body, revealing the sharp scales. The eyes are embellished with emeralds, exuding a smart gaze. The case and dial are adorned with delicately toned and richly layered enamel, which is complemented by gradients of sapphires and diamonds, giving the crocodile's silhouette a deeper and more captivating look.
Another example is two sculptural High Jewellery animal watches. The resolute and majestic frontal silhouettes of crocodiles and tigers come into view, and their jaws grip the sunray-guilloché dial as if searching for a reflection in the river of time.
爱马仕ARCEAU Chorus Stellarum星辰合唱曲腕表
This year's Hermès Arceau collection is inspired by equestrian spectacle, with a "whimsical" play on the square dial.
Created in 1978 by Henri d'Origny, the iconic Arceau has been an interesting collection in the history of Hermès watches. The collection's round case is surrounded by asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs, creating a unique style.
Both new products feature the Chorus Stellarum scarf by Japanese illustrator Daiske Nomura. Two sturdy skeletal knights ride horses, lifelike in gold appliqués and carved miniature paintings.
When the wearer presses the pusher at 9 o'clock, the clockwork mechanism moves the Gothic figure to dance on the dial. It is important to note that this dynamic device requires the wearer to press the button continuously to appear.