In the past two days, Guangxi has been on the hot search for three days in March, which is simply a true portrayal of "jealousy has made me unrecognizable."
But it doesn't matter, although I haven't taken four days off in a row, but I have a strategy for a dozen! (Strong face.jpg)
Although I didn't catch up with March 3, I went to Guilin a few days ago, and unexpectedly opened up the hidden side of this ancient Internet celebrity city.
To be honest, before I went to Guilin, I was a little apprehensive. Although "Guilin's landscape is the best in the world", the essence of the Li River section can only be visited by cruise. In the city...... I'm afraid that except for checking in to Elephant Trunk Mountain, there is nothing I can recommend to everyone
But I didn't expect that when I went to eat old Dongjiang rice noodles, I passed by the Seven Star Scenic Area and saw the "Guihai Stele Forest", so I went in to have a look out of curiosity. Suddenly a whole new world has opened!
"The cliffs are all over, and the walls are incomplete", the description of the ancients is really concise and to the point. As soon as I walked into this cave, my scalp was numb from the dense inscriptions.
The stone carvings here range from the Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, and even if you don't identify them one by one, you will be shocked by the feeling that the traces of different eras "explode" in the same space.
After recovering from the shock, I remembered to understand the origin of the inscription in Guilin, "the Han monument looks at Shandong, the Tang monument looks at Xi'an, and the Song monument looks at Guilin", although it sounds very smooth, but it is summed up by the inscription experts.
Moreover, the biggest feature of Guilin inscriptions is that they complement each other with the scenery, which is basically improvised by ancient literati and ink writers after enjoying the scenery. While looking at the scenery, while watching the ancients' "visit here", the whole scenery suddenly has a different color.
Like the Elephant Trunk Mountain Water Moon Cave hides the true traces of Lu You, Fubo Mountain also has the only surviving self-portrait of Mi Fu in the Pearl Cave...... Occasionally, you can also see Buddhist statues from the Tang Dynasty, which is full of surprises!
So my three days in Guilin suddenly turned into a "journey to enjoy the scenery and find the monuments". And, rice noodles and oil tea, which are indispensable every day!
Next, let's talk to everyone specifically~
Guilin's landscapes are the best in the world
It is said that if you talk about Guilin, you must start with Elephant Trunk Mountain. But since I chose the entry point of the inscription this time, let's simply start by looking at the best place of the inscription!
Seven Star Scenic Area
Address: No. 1, Qixing Road, East Bank of the Li River, Qixing District, Guilin City
Opening time: 08:00-18:00, last admission at 18:00
Tickets: 55 yuan/person (Seven Star Rock: 45 yuan/person)
The Seven Stars Scenic Area is located on the east side of the Li River, separated by a river from the main urban area of Guilin.
There are two major characteristics in the scenic area, one is the Guihai stele forest, which is in the Longyin Rock and the Longyin Cave respectively. Longyin Rock is a semi-circular rock, and the rock is covered with more than 200 cliff carvings from the Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty.
Among them, the most precious is engraved in the Southern Song Dynasty "Yuan You Party Membership" tablet, Su Shi, Huang Tingjian, Sima Guang and other names are impressively listed, Kang Youwei read Yuan You Party Membership Tablet after feeling that there is also a monument to commemorate, but unfortunately it was destroyed later.
Standing next to me and reading the introductory text, it seems as if thousands of years of history are coming and going on this rock, changing and circulating. "Today's people don't see the ancient times and the moon, but this moon once looked like the ancients", the people standing here have also become a part of history. It's a shock that makes your scalp tingle.
Longyin Cave is a typical karst landform. The inscription and the scenery in the cave are integrated, and walking in it is both scenery and humanity.
The moment I was immersed in it, I suddenly realized that the scenery of Guilin is different, that is, the profound cultural accumulation. The "visit here" of the past generations on the stone wall is not all celebrities, but it also makes the concept of "ancients" come alive.
Another feature of the Seven Star Scenic Area is the Seven Star Rock, which is a karst cave landform, and Xu Xiake also described the scenery here in detail in the "Diary of Visiting the Seven Star Rock" after visiting.
Although the pictures taken are really indescribably "colorful", walking in it, you can still feel the "grandeur and majesty" of this cave. There are two exits to the cave, and it takes more than 20 minutes to complete each way.
There are also the inscriptions of the ancients at the entrance of the Seven Star Rock Cave, among which the more special is the inscription of "Fang Xin Ru You" of the Song Dynasty, the overall design is a seal style, with the Seven Stars Mountain as the picture scroll, and the inscription as the seal, it is very atmospheric.
However, this inscription is hidden a little deep, on the right hand side of the entrance of the Seven Star Rock Cave in the direction of the toilet, behind the building shown in the picture below. I missed it the first time I went and only found it when I came back
I have to complain that Guilin is really proud of its own scenery and does not develop these monuments at all......
If you want to have an in-depth understanding of Guilin inscriptions, there is also a Guihai Stele Forest Museum in the scenic area, which has rubbings of Guilin's classic inscriptions. You can also do color rubbing, which is suitable for taking children to experience.
Elephant Trunk Mountain Scenic Area
Address: No. 1, Minmin Road, Xiangshan District, Guilin City
Opening time: 07:00-21:30, last admission at 21:00
Admission: Free
As the "business card" of Guilin, Elephant Trunk Mountain can be said to be quite well-known.
If you don't take a photo with Elephant Trunk Mountain in Guilin, it seems that something is missing...... There are two viewing locations in Elephant Trunk Hill, one is the viewing platform of Elephant Trunk Hill Park, which is the best check-in point, but there are really many people.
If you want to be less crowded, you can go to Zizhou Park near Qixingyan, where you can see a panoramic view of Elephant Trunk Mountain, and the whole park is full of greenery, few tourists, and the perception is very good.
Address: No. 8, Chuanshan Road, Qixing District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 08:00-16:30
Tickets: 30 yuan
As for the color of the water...... When I went, it happened to be just after the heavy rain, and I didn't see the Li River, but I saw the muddy and sandy Li River
In fact, Elephant Trunk Mountain is more than just a distant view. The Water Moon Cave, that is, the "elephant trunk part", actually hides a mystery.
There are more than 60 cliff stone carvings here, among which there are not only the authentic traces of Lu You, but also the record of the "dispute" of the renaming of the Water Moon Cave in the Song Dynasty. Shuiyue Cave was once renamed Chaoyang Cave, and later changed back, and the people of the time also specially wrote "Fushui Moon Cave Inscription" engraved in it.
"Fushui Moon Cave Inscription" is on the left side of the end of the Water Moon Cave, and the overall is relatively clear.
Lu You's authentic handiwork is very badly damaged, and there is no sign next to it. I went back and forth for a long time to see it. However, in the remaining words, you can still feel the aura of calligraphy.
If you want to go looking for traces, Lu You stone carving is on the rock below the three words "Elephant Trunk Rock".
and trivia: Lu You has never been to Guilin, and the stone carvings are letters he wrote to his friends in Guilin.
Guilin Duxiu Peak Wangcheng Scenic Area
Address: No. 1, Wangcheng Road, Xiufeng District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 08:00-18:00
Tickets: 100 RMB/person
The stone carvings in this scenic spot contain one of the most well-known poems about Guilin - "Guilin's landscape is the best in the world, and the jade and green are ginseng". This widely circulated golden sentence was actually inscribed on the Duxiu Peak in Guilin during the Southern Song Dynasty, which shows that Guilin has a very long history.
However, Guilin, which has a long history, was built in the Jingjiang palace of the Ming Dynasty, due to the damage of the past dynasties, coupled with the Japanese bombing during the Anti-Japanese War, only part of the city wall and stone corridor were left, and the rest were rebuilt during the Republic of China.
The exhibition hall in the palace introduces the changes of the Jingjiang palace in the past dynasties, from the Ming Dynasty palace to the Qing Dynasty Gongyuan to the provincial government during the Republic of China. The more essential part is on the Duxiu Peak of the back mountain, but the small peak has stone carvings of the past dynasties, and you can overlook the urban area of Guilin when you climb to the top.
For a tour of the entire palace, the ticket is a guided tour.
The tour guide will explain the historical part, but at the end will lead to a shopping session, although shopping is not mandatory, it will still affect the perception to some extent. If you follow a guided tour, you can be mentally prepared.
Speaking of Jingjiang Palace, by the way, there is a scenic spot that is not open, "Jingjiang City Map". Guilin Song Dynasty for the "Jingjiang Mansion", on the Parrot Mountain there is a carved in the Song Dynasty "Jingjiang City Map" stone carving, is the largest known city plan stone carving in the mainland.
Sounds cool, right, but I asked a few people in the residential area and finally found it, it was closed, and I could only barely take a picture outside the fence......
complained again, Guilin really has a thick family background, and a "Guilin landscape" is satisfied, these good things are really hidden from us.
Fubo Hill Park
Address: No. 27, Binjiang Road, Diecai District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 06:30-18:30, last entry at 18:00
Tickets: 22 RMB/person
Fuboshan Park is located in the northeast of Jingjiang Wangcheng, which is very close.
It's not big, and you can walk it in half an hour. Although it is small, it has more than 400 Buddha statues in the Tang Dynasty and more than 100 stone carvings. These cliff statues are not exquisite, but they are relatively well preserved and have their own style.
One of the most valuable is Mi Fu's self-portrait and title.
It is said that the regular script on the left side of the picture below is written by Mi Fu when he visited Guilin, and the self-portrait of Mi Fu on the right side is engraved by Fang Xinru to commemorate Mi Fu. Seeing this inscription, I was a little unconscious!
Diecai Mountain Park
Address: No. 815, Longzhu Road, Diecai Street, Diecai District, Guilin City
Opening time: 07:00-18:00, last admission at 17:00
Tickets: 25 RMB/person
Continue north along Fubo Mountain, and you will arrive at Diecai Mountain.
The most famous stone carving of Diecai Mountain is written by Chen Yi, "I want to be a Guilin person, not a god".
In addition, there are also a lot of cliff statues of the Song Dynasty here, and the craftsmanship is clumsy. The Buddha statue has a wide robe and large sleeves, and is conservatively dressed, which is very local.
The summit of Diecai Mountain is especially suitable for watching the sunset. In the distance, the mountains are stacked on top of each other, like ink paintings.
When I was taking a photo, I heard someone next to me say, "It turns out that Chinese painting is realistic!"
Two rivers and four lakes
Address: No. 2, Binjiang Road, Xiufeng District, Guilin City
Opening Hours: Open all day
After talking about the surrounding attractions, I finally returned to Guilin's famous two rivers and four lakes~
The two rivers and four lakes refer to the Li River, Taohua River, Mulong Lake, Guihu Lake, Rong Lake, and Shanhu Lake. Although it sounds like a lot, it's actually all in the city, and you can walk it in half a day.
You can start at the Cedar Lake near Elephant Trunk Mountain and walk all the way from south to north.
Along the way, you will pass by the Sun and Moon Twin Towers, Li Zongren's official residence, Bai Chongxi's former residence, and Guilin's ancient south gate.
I specially bought tickets for the Sun and Moon Twin Towers to go in and walk around, which said that there were cultural relics excavated from the underground palace of the Tang Dynasty, but I took pictures and consulted relevant teachers, saying that most of them were not from the Tang Dynasty. And the top of the tower is a trick of spending money, and I have a kind of rush to buy tickets to go in as a big seed......
However, if you want to take a flat view of the Sun and Moon Tower, the top of the tower is indeed the best viewing angle. If you want to go for this, it's worth a trip.
Not long after Li Zongren's official residence was renovated, the annex building mainly introduces Li Zongren's life with words and pictures.
The main building next to it restores some of the residential and office scenes at that time. The exhibition hall is not large, so you can stop by if you pass by.
Bai Chongxi's former residence was being overhauled when I went there, and I couldn't get in.
There is also a Bai Xianyong Literature Museum inside, because I have read Bai Xianyong's works, in fact, I am still quite interested, if there are shareholders who have been there, you can leave a message to talk about it.
In addition to walking, the two rivers and four lakes can also be visited by boat, and it is recommended to choose the time in the evening, from the setting sun to the light on, the scenery will be better.
As for the stay time in Guilin, if you just walk around the classic scenic spots to check in, seriously, one day is enough, two rivers and four lakes + Elephant Trunk Mountain.
However, if you are interested in the inscriptions mentioned in the text, it is recommended to stay for two days.
Day1: Seven Star Scenic Area (the Inscription Museum can be understood) + Zizhou Park, you can also go to the Chuanshan Park in the south if you have enough time, there is an ancient tower of the Ming Dynasty, and there is a good shooting position.
Day2: Elephant Trunk Mountain - Jingjiang Wangfu - Fubo Mountain - Diecai Mountain, a line to go over, the main attractions of Guilin are included.
Let's eat oil tea together!
After talking about Guilin's play, it's time to talk about Guilin's food!
Guilin rice noodles naturally need not be said, enter the word "rice noodles" on the map of Guilin, and look at the density to know how popular it is~ But in addition to rice noodles, the oil tea here is also very distinctive.
Old Dongjiang rice noodles
Address: No. 3, Longyin Road, Qixing District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 06:00-16:00
There are too many delicious rice noodles in Guilin, in the words of the locals, that is, blind selection does not step on the thunder. However, I still chose a high degree of recommendation, the main store of old Dongjiang rice noodles. Old brand + old store, no mistakes.
There are two kinds of pickled vegetable noodles in this house: ordinary and signboard, and the recommendation of the locals is enough to choose the basic model, and there is no need to go to the signboard.
Then two or two rice noodles~ The boss took a knife and cut a few pieces of pot roast meat and meat slices into a bowl and poured a spoonful of marinade. The rest of the ingredients need to be played by themselves.
The small table is very rich, capers, sour bamboo shoots, green onions, chili peppers, and the peppers are specially marked next to the peppers "Chili peppers are extra spicy".
Add the ingredients according to your liking, you can eat the dry mix directly, or you can add a spoonful of stock to eat the soup powder.
When I added the broth and mixed it, I could smell the rich smell of sour bamboo shoots as soon as I entered my mouth. After blending into the soup base, the rice noodles taste sour, spicy and delicious. Pot roasting, that is, the crispy meat is a mixture of fat and thin, and it tastes particularly fragrant.
After eating and drinking the soup, the soup base is sweet and sour, and it is also excellent.
Nuoxiang Station (Shijiayuan Branch)
Address: Guilin City, Qixing District, Chuanshan Street Office, next to the southeast gate
Opening time: 09:00-17:00, last admission at 16:00
Sticky rice is also a common breakfast option in Guilin, and this restaurant is right next to the old Dongjiang River.
First of all, I came over after eating rice noodles, and after a bite of glutinous rice, I still felt amazing, and I could eat that kind of food!
The seasoning of glutinous rice is mainly salty and spicy, among which the fresher is the bean paste, which has a rusty taste and a particularly rich bean aroma. In addition, the shortbread is also amazing, the taste is crispy with a bit of powder, and when you bite it, it is crispy but not scattered, and the taste is unique.
The glutinous rice itself has a very soft texture, and it is halfway between the rice and the very Q-elastic glutinous rice, so it doesn't feel too top-notch to eat. The whole is salty and spicy, but there is also a Cantonese sweet sausage hidden in it, and with the aroma of bean paste, it is a taste that makes people want to describe it as "very wonderful".
When it comes to the main meal, be sure to try the oil tea. The basic practice of Guilin Camellia oleifera is to use local green tea and ginger as the main raw materials, with chopped green onions and edible oil to fry together, while frying and hammering, so that the fragrance of the seasoning is released, and finally boiled with broth, and the finished product obtained after boiling and filtering is called Camellia oleifera.
Camellia oleifera is subdivided into two types: Guanyang Camellia oleifera and Gongcheng Camellia oleifera, which are characterized by being delicious
New Guo Ji oil tea (Fengbei Road store)
Address: No. 25, Bajiaotang, Fengbei Road, Diecai District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 07:00-18:00
Let's talk about the more common Gongcheng oil tea first. The characteristics of Gongcheng Camellia oleifera are that there are more tea leaves and ginger, and the tea taste is heavy, and it will be a little bitter.
The way to eat is relatively simple and rude, the boss will directly bring a pot of oil tea, with peanuts, fried rice, salt and other small ingredients, according to their own taste, put the small ingredients in a bowl, scoop a spoonful of oil tea and mix well.
Gongcheng oil tea tastes strong in tea and ginger, but with fried rice and peanuts, it has a fragrant and crispy taste. It belongs to the type of people who like it very much, and people who don't like it can't accept it.
Gongcheng oil tea can also be used for shabu sashimi. But it's the starting point of the whole fish, I go alone, and I can't eat it anymore. The owner recommended their specialty fibrille cake and Li River boat cake.
The two are sweet and salty, the outer layer of the golden silk cake can be eaten with a brushed feeling, the inside is very soft and glutinous, the innermost layer is red beans, the overall taste is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, which is particularly good, but it will be a little greasy if you eat too much.
Personally, I prefer the boat cake, the outside layer is fried very crispy, the inside is soft fufu, and the meat and taro are also put in the middle, which is fresh with the aroma of meat, a bit like eating fried zongzi slices. Fragrant but not greasy, fabulous.
Yuanjia Guanyang Oil Tea Flavor Hall
Address: No. 18, Huixian Road, Qixing District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 10:30-14:30, 17:30-21:30
Compared with Gongcheng oil tea, in terms of form, Guanyang oil tea will be more ceremonial.
When you enter the store, you will be served a bowl of "welcome tea", which is brown sugar ginger tea, and some stores will also serve two quail eggs.
Then every bubble of oil tea is served after the boss has brewed it.
In addition to peanuts, fried rice, and rice noodles in the tea base, there will generally be pork ribs in the first bubble, and vegetables such as melons in the second brew, etc., and each brew has some changes.
The boss walks around the shop with a tea bowl, and if you need to signal, the boss will fill up the empty bowl for you.
It is said that many people have to drink a dozen bowls at the end of a meal.
In terms of taste, the tea taste of Guanyang oil tea is lighter, and the whole is more fragrant. When I first ate pork ribs, I thought of the taste of bak kut teh. Relatively speaking, if you haven't tried it, the acceptance of Guanyang oil tea will be higher.
However, the tea fee of Guanyang oil tea (generally 16 yuan/person) is also higher than that of Gongcheng oil tea (3 yuan/person).
Also, the oil tea shop is actually a formal restaurant, and you can order some local stir-fried dishes. For example, the following chili pepper brew tastes very good~
The word "stuffed" appears in Guilin cuisine, which is actually a verb. Generally, the mixed meat is filled with some kind of ingredients, such as snail stuffing, which is "stuffed" into the snail with meat, and chili pepper stuffing is "stuffed" into the chili pepper.
The hot sauce has both the freshness and sweetness of chili peppers and the thickness of the meat, which is full and sweet, and the taste is amazing.
Haitian cheong fun
Address: Northeast corner of the intersection of Taiping Road Lane 1 and Jiefang West Road, Xiufeng District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 07:00-22:00
In addition to these local characteristics, because of its proximity to Guangdong, Guilin has also absorbed some Cantonese delicacies, such as rice rolls, sugar water, etc. One of the most famous is Haitian Cheong Fun, I didn't go to the meal, there were a lot of people in line.
I checked with my friends in Guangdong to verify that this rice roll is biased towards "graphite rice rolls", which is a more traditional practice.
The noodles are very thick and chewy, and the ingredients inside are also very abundant, and the beef and fish are very large and fresh. The sauce on the drizzle feels a bit like the marinade of rice noodles, and it is very fragrant.
Moreover, the price is cheap, basically 8 yuan / plate, you can eat enough.
The store provides free white porridge, and it is not foolish, it is raw porridge, which is very rich and fragrant. If it's downstairs in my house, I'll eat it every day!
Aunt Xu's sugar water
Address: No. 10, Letai Community, Lequn Road, Xiufeng District, Guilin City
Opening hours: 08:00-19:00
There is a sugar water shop near Haitian Cheong Fun, and the door is always full of people.
Sesame paste, mung bean paste, red bean paste, water chestnut syrup, tapioca syrup...... The choice inside is very rich.
The prices are all around 6-7 yuan, which is very conscientious.
The key is that the sugar water tastes very fresh, I ordered cassava and water chestnut, and it was fresh and glutinous and sweet and crispy in my mouth.
Drink it in a bowl, although it is full of sugar, but this freshness relieves a lot of guilt, and it is delicious!
Although I went to Guilin this time to catch up with the Li River and become the "Yellow River", the scenery was a little weaker.
But I didn't expect it to open up another side of Guilin. When looking for inscriptions and monuments in various scenic spots, a thought suddenly flashed through my mind, this trip to Guilin is very much like a friend who has always been a general friend, and suddenly had the opportunity to have a long talk, and discovered the other side of TA, which is also a very interesting experience!
/Transportation Tips/To get to Guilin, you can choose planes and trains. Liangjiang International Airport is about an hour's drive from the city, so if you have an early morning, you can choose the airport's public transportation. If you arrive late and choose online car-hailing, the driver may communicate the new price privately, if it cannot be avoided, it is recommended to at least go online and make up the difference. Guilin Railway Station has Guilin Station, Guilin North Station, and Guilin West Station, and the distance from the city increases in turn. Guilin West Railway Station is the farthest from the city and can be avoided as much as possible. The scenic spots in downtown Guilin are relatively close to each other, so you can choose to share electric vehicles to travel. Taxis are also inexpensive, but the waiting time can be longer.
/Accommodation guide/It is recommended to choose a hotel near the center of Guilin, two rivers and four lakes. It will be more convenient to travel this way.
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