[Watch House 2024 Geneva Watch Exhibition "Clocks and Wonders"] At the watch exhibition, all kinds of large and complex watches are gathered, which is certainly cool to watch, but the public price of millions at every turn is also beyond the budget of most players. So today, I'm going to bring you a new watch that's in the middle of the show, which is within the budget of most gamers, and can really get your hands on it. More than 30,000 starts, let's start.
Tudor, recommended: Black Bay 1958 Greenwich GMT, public price starts at 34800.
Although, we can see that TUDOR has been gradually raising its positioning in the past few years, TUDOR has always maintained a good price-performance ratio. This year's new model is the first to launch the Black Bay 1958 Greenwich GMT, with a starting price of 30,004, which is close to the majority of players. The previous Tudor Black Bay GMT was 41 mm, which is relatively large, but the new Black Bay 1958 Greenwich has been reduced to 39 mm in size, and the thickness has dropped significantly to 12.8 mm, which is very suitable for our domestic players. The "red and black circle" that Rolex has not been able to achieve, this time on the Tudor, and the new Black Bay 1958 Greenwich has also upgraded the movement to 15000 Gauss anti-magnetic (MT5450-U), which is the same as that of Omega.
帝舵碧湾1958格林尼治GMT
Another available TUDOR is the new Black Bay Black Circle, measuring 41 mm. The new black circle, the red embellishment on the old black circle, etc., have been removed, and the new one is a single black circle black plate color. The movement is also equipped with 15,000 Gauss anti-magnetic (MT5602-U). The new black circle also adds a five-bead chain and tape. The five-bead chain has a strong sense of formality, and the tape has a stronger sense of movement. The starting price of 33600 is suitable for most players. Compared with the high-profile Biwan Red Circle, there may be more players who choose the Black Circle.
Tudor Black Bay "Black Circle"
Montblanc, recommended: Glacier Series Diver's Watch Oxygen-free 4810-meter deep diving model, the public price is 9100 US dollars (about 65852 yuan).
THIS YEAR, MONTBLANC DIVIDED THE DIVER'S WATCH INTO A SEPARATE GLACIER SERIES, AND LAUNCHED A FLAGSHIP DIVER'S WATCH, AN OXYGEN-FREE 4810-METER DIVER'S WATCH, WATER-RESISTANT TO 4810 METERS, DIRECTLY SURPASSING THE ROLEX DEEPSEA'S 3900 METERS. Oxygen-free in the watch refers to the fact that when the watch is assembled, it is filled with nitrogen and oxygen is discharged to ensure that the watch will not fog up in an environment with a large temperature difference. The 4810 is an oxygen-free deep dive and has a titanium case with a size of 43 mm, but the case will be a bit thicker for water resistance. Ceramic bezel, dial and caseback with laser-engraved glacier motif. The watch uses the MB29.29 automatic movement, which is shared within the Richemont group and has a power of 120 hours, and is a sibling to the IWC 32000 series. Luxury diver's watches are the most intense "battleground" in the world of luxury watches, and the addition of Montblanc gives players another choice.
Montblanc Glacier Diver's Anaerobic 4810 metres
Cartier, recommended: Sandos two places, the public price is 8,800 Swiss francs (about 69,652 yuan).
Cartier Sandoz, recognized as the world's first modern watch, was born in 1904. And today, Sandoz is in Cartier's lineup, which is more luxurious and sporty. This year, Cartier added two hours to Sandoz. At 6 o'clock, there is a GMT subdial, and near the centre of the dial, there is a small dot to indicate the second time zone, day and night. The time of the two places is a very practical function in the watch. Even if you don't need the GMT, the addition of GMT subdials adds more technical features to the watch than the regular Sandoz, making the dial appear richer.
Cartier Sandos at the time
冠蓝狮，推荐款：Evolution 9 Style正装表，公价11700欧元（约90955元起步）
After the new generation of the automatic calibre 9SA5, the Blue Lion this year introduced a new generation of manual calibre 9SA4. After removing the obscuration, the beauty of the new generation of the Crown Blue Lion calibre is fully demonstrated in the 9SA4 calibre. The hand-wound wheel train, a large number of jewel bearings are exposed, and the movement bridges are deliberately sharpened and chamfered and polished. In addition to the sophisticated decoration of the movement, the unique double-impact escapement of the Crown Blue Lion continues to be used, with a high frequency of 36,000 and a power of 80 hours, which is displayed on the back of the movement. The Evolution 9 Style dress watch is available in titanium and gold cases, and yes, you read that right, titanium cases. The dial of the watch continues the "white birch" pattern, which has been the most popular in recent years, but this time the "white birch" is a horizontal pattern. With a size of 38.6 mm, it is perfect for formal wear as well as the wrists of domestic players.
冠蓝狮Evolution 9 Style正装表
Hublot, recommended: BIGBANG one-piece big triple needle 38mm, starting at 95700 yuan.
The Hublot Bigbang Big Bang three-pin model was launched last year, but it was previously a hollowed-out disc version with a size of 40 mm. This year, Hublot has launched a regular dial version, a new version with a regular dial, 38 mm. After reducing the size to 38 mm, the Big Bang one-piece big three stitches can be eaten by both men and women. Moreover, the watch head and bracelet are integrated, and its wearing experience is even higher than that of tape. Whether it is a titanium case or a ceramic case, Hublot's treatment of the case and appearance is very meticulous and luxurious. Even though the 38mm Big Bang triple hand uses a universal movement (Hublot replaced the rotor), the Hublot Big Bang's outstanding appearance will make this watch stand out and be unconventional.
Hublot Big Bang Bigbang All-in-One Big Three Needles 38mm
IWC, recommended model: Portugal 7th chain, the public price starts at 99800.
IWC has carried out a concentrated upgrade of the Portuguese series this year. Among them, the appearance and movement of the Portuguese 7 have been fine-tuned. For most players, the upgraded new Portugal 7-Day Chain is well worth buying. The biggest change in the new Portuguese 7 is the reduction in thickness, from 14.1 mm to 12.9 mm in the old model. In order to accommodate the huge 7-day chain movement, the Portuguese 7 itself is one of the larger types of dress watches. After this downsizing, the wearing feeling has been improved. The new Portuguese 7 dial has been fine-tuned on the small seconds hand and power display dial, with a simpler style, a variety of new colors and a new box-shaped crystal. The 52011 seven-day chain automatic movement has undergone minor adjustments to the shape of the balance and has not changed the performance of the movement.
IWC's new Portuguese seven-day chain
In addition to Portugal 7, IWC has added a variety of new colors to Portugal's 40 small three needles and Portuguese counts. However, it should be noted that the newly added ice blue disc has a super high appearance, but the ice blue disc is equipped with a white gold case, and the public price will be relatively high.
IWC's new Portugal 40 (top) and Portugal (bottom)
Panerai, recommended: Stealth series Ti-Ceramitech, public price 126000.
This year, Officine Panerai presents two new models in the Diver's Watch Stealth Collection, the Blue Disc 1466 and the White Disc 1543, in the new Ti-Ceramitech material. Ti-Ceramitech, in layman's terms, is titanium ceramic, adding a layer of ceramic shell to the surface of the titanium shell. However, unlike Wanguo's titanium porcelain, Panerai's titanium porcelain, through plasma electrolytic oxidation technology, makes the ceramic shell blue, which is better than Wanguo's titanium porcelain. The stealth series Ti-Ceramitech, with the lightness of the titanium case, and the scratch resistance and color of the ceramic, is very powerful, and the case and bezel of Panerai 1466 and 1543 are all Ti-Ceramitech. The 44mm size, plus the P900 movement, is more than 120,000 yuan, which is reasonable.
Panerai Stealth Series Ti-Ceramitech
香奈儿，推荐款：J12CALIBER 12.2钻刻，公价76500。
Finally, I would like to recommend a women's watch, Chanel J12CALIBER 12.2. As you know, the 38 mm Chanel J12 was already powered by the 12.1 calibre from the Kenissi Manufacture owned by the Rolex Group. But the 38mm unisex J12 is on the oversized side for some ladies. But it doesn't matter, the small size of the J12 CALIBER 12.2 with the 12.2 calibre is not the only way to go. In recent years, a large number of small-sized women's watches have used quartz movements, and on small-size women's watches, there are only a handful of styles that use special mechanical movements for women's watches, and even Patek Philippe's small-sized women's watches TWENTY~4 are quartz (square models). NOW THE J12 CALIBER 12.2 IS NOW A TOP WOMEN'S WATCH WITH A ROLEX GROUP MOVEMENT, AN ALL-CERAMIC EXTERIOR AND DIAMOND INDEXES. 33 mm, so to speak, is the right size for all girls/ladies to buy a watch, and it is worth giving priority to all girls/ladies when buying a watch.
Chanel J12 CALIBER 12.2 diamond engraving, 33 mm (Photo/text House of Watches)