Not long ago, a net red buffet with shoddy news caused a hot discussion, known as "Shanghai's first internet celebrity" Japanese hot pot buffet "Yixu Shoukiyaki" was exposed to deceive consumers, causing an uproar, while condemning the business, we also found that the presence of the buffet is not as high as in the past.
Even if it is exposed, there are still some consumers who do the opposite, holding the idea that "rectification should be the safest in these days", choosing to go to Ichisho Sukiyaki to eat, in addition to the fluke of food safety, the most important reason is probably on various social networks, Ichisui Sukiyaki is still the top position in the buffet.
Yixu Shoukiyaki is known as the king of Shanghai queues, and has been popular since its opening, and there are people queuing up an hour before opening, and ordinary diners need to make reservations two or three days in advance to eat.
The main Australian M8 Wagyu beef to meet the dietary quality requirements, Sukiyaki this Japanese atmosphere of the food, with Japanese sterile eggs, seafood platter, Japanese sashimi, even the buffet looks small bourgeois atmosphere full of atmosphere.
Although the price point of two hundred per capita is not very popular in Cities such as Shanghai, at least it is distinguished from the lower riba people, and diners generally report good taste (but the difference between M7 and M8 Wagyu beef is indeed not very good), it is not surprising that it has become the top buffet on social networks.
This is actually the existing buffet status quo in first-tier cities: Japanese buffets that focus on seafood shabu-shabu or Wagyu beef grilled meat account for almost half of the industry, and high-end cafeterias such as Akasakatei make it easy for diners to achieve Wagyu beef freedom.
For friends who want to have the freedom of salmon and sweet shrimp, the buffet of the star hotel is also a good choice. In addition to the types of sashimi that gourmets care about, star hotels usually provide a variety of Chinese food, pastries, drinks and beverages, backed by the blessing of international chains, the food safety in star hotels is relatively more secure, and although the unified standard is less surprising, the taste will not be worse.
In addition to cafeterias, some established restaurant chains are also trying to expand their buffet business. For example, Pizza Hut and Starbucks launched buffets last year and this year, respectively, but the feedback was not satisfactory. Pizza Hut's buffet is not limited to the time and menu, in response to the environmental protection of the endless eating also fines; and Starbucks is even more controversial:
After a blogger and friend spent 2,000 yuan to experience the Starbucks buffet service and gave a bad review (not full), they were reprimanded by some people for not understanding Starbucks culture, "Trouble next time go to this kind of cultural atmosphere to do homework first."
In contrast, the service master Haidilao is much more generous. As long as 9.9 yuan can diy a cup of your own custom milk tea, this kind of self-service that is not mainly "cost-effective" but increases the dining pleasure of diners.
In addition, some niche gourmet buffets are also quietly emerging, such as mini-theme restaurants with bread buffets: dozens of breads and jams of various flavors to choose from; as well as Korean fried chicken buffets, Cantonese morning tea buffets, cake dessert buffets and other emerging buffet restaurants.
But in general, the buffet market in China is still gradually shrinking, according to the data, there are currently 22,000 existing "buffet" related enterprises in China. There were more registrations in 2017 and 2019, with 0.4 million registrations in 2020, down 25.6%
Cafeterias have also had good times. The popular cafeteria is actually a product of the special era background.
Originating from the way Vikings ate in the 8th-11th centuries, the buffet carried the gene of "internet celebrity" from a very early age. The pirates had a rough and bohemian personality, so much so that they hated the etiquette and rules of the meal when eating, and only asked the restaurant to fill all kinds of meals and drinks they needed in containers, concentrate them on the table, and then let them drink and eat without any scruples, and eat not enough. This way of eating beyond the times of the time was later spread around the world, and the meal was not constrained, and what you wanted to eat, for the catering operator, it also eliminated manpower and reduced the cost.
The first time the buffet shined in Asia was in Japan. The Japanese people who "revere the ocean and charm the outside" use the name of "food topic" to attract diners, and then type the name of the restaurant as "Viking cuisine" to increase the exotic style of the buffet. In the 1950s, when the president of the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo was on a business trip in Denmark, he happened to eat a local buffet, and was attracted by the free way of eating, and immediately instructed his subordinates to conduct research after returning home, and the next year, he opened the first buffet restaurant in Japan. At a time when college graduates with a monthly salary of 12,000 yen, this buffet restaurant has a lunch of 1,200 yen and dinner of 1,600 yen, and after opening, it still attracts Japanese people to queue up to punch the clock, and then Japanese cafeterias began to mushroom.
In China, the real contact of buffets by the public is after the reform and opening up. After 2000, the average GDP of Chinese exceeded the 10,000 yuan mark, the Chinese people moved from material poverty to material abundance, and the public's consumption ideology also appeared retaliatory. From the big gold chain and small watch of the broad boss dressed, to the cafeteria to eat a lot to the wall out, food, clothing, housing and transportation must highlight the state of sudden wealth everywhere, in order to meet the Chinese people at that time "double face" psychology.
For the Chinese people who love food, the emergence of the buffet has perfectly realized their good wish to "eat all over the world": from Korean barbecue to German sausage, from Indonesian satay to Thai Tom Yin Gong, buffet restaurants have everything, and you can eat all over the world without going out - not to mention, no matter how much you eat, you only need to pay the price of one person.
As early as when Pizza Hut entered China, the self-service of fruit salad for 25 yuan a piece triggered a nationwide "Stacked Fruit Tower Challenge", and "Give me a small bowl, give you a miracle" has become the slogan of the public challenge. 32 plates piled up with salad towers, triggering the domestic "eat pizza hut" popular trend.
At that time, the tutorial post of "how to eat Pizza Hut" circulated on the Internet, and many netizens even used this salad tower as an architectural stacking case study, in order to eat more fruit, superb salad architects could even take dozens of pounds of fruit at a time, so that after constantly raising prices, Pizza Hut finally canceled salad self-service in 2009.
Buffets mushroom everywhere, and when ordinary buffets cannot meet the needs of the public, the competition in the buffet market naturally begins:
In 2003, Golden Leopard, known as the "Rolls-Royce in the Buffet," opened its first store in Shanghai, and in just a few years, expanded 26 stores in first-tier cities across the country.
The price of hundreds of yuan set the tone of the golden leopard's high-end and extravagant, and eating a buffet with abalone steak and Haagen-Dazs in the golden leopard was once regarded as the behavior of the people at that time.
In order to value the fare, "hungry for a day, support the wall to go in; eat a meal, support the wall to come out" can be described as a true portrayal of the money leopard diners. The standard operation of a set of "worth the fare" is as follows: first eat the fruit, pad the stomach; then focus on seafood, tiger head crab, sweet shrimp, salmon, mussels, king crab feet... These foods not only basically do not take up space in the stomach, but also eat two plates to be worth the fare; if there is spare energy, some meat; and finally finish with fruit and dessert.
There are even experience stickers from the beginning to tell you that even the physical state and the position of the meal must be prepared, the seat should be selected close to the dining table, drink less water, carbonated drinks, but many people often have no strategy in their minds as soon as they get to the place, and "eating expensive" has become the first criterion for eating buffets.
Of course, even if they can't afford to eat the golden leopard, consumers have more affordable options: the buffet Western restaurant Haolunge, which focuses on the student market, the self-service barbecue restaurant Kim Hans, which can be eaten freely, the buffet restaurant Gibruch, which focuses on affordable steak and seafood, etc., to satisfy the endless desires of the public at any time with food that is constantly served.
Up to now, those who love cafeterias, except for the cheap tour group aunts, seem to have only the big stomach king to eat broadcast.
There's no excuse for the fact that an unlimited food buffet is clearly the best choice for food-hungry broadcasters who need to eat constantly to satisfy the audience's desire to watch. What's more, in addition to the lower cost, using their own oversized stomach capacity to "frighten the boss" is also one of the means for the big stomach king to prove his strength and please the audience.
There is a classic passage in the early videos of Douyin's well-known eating and broadcasting langwei immortals: after he ordered a lot of food, the boss will definitely look embarrassed and repeatedly confirm whether it is so many points - and finally the langweixian of course has eaten.
A cold knowledge is that overeating is no less harmful to the body than smoking and drinking.
A well-known stomach king who eats bonosopaolong died unexpectedly at the beginning of this year, and he was famous for eating down buffets before his death. In the video, he always holds his belly, to give the cafeteria merchants a "lesson", with his own food to let the boss witness the limits of diners.
Two months before his death, another 19-year-old young man who was also a food broadcast blogger died of cerebral hemorrhage; last year, a Shenyang food blogger suddenly felt unwell during the live broadcast and died a week after being sent to the hospital.
After the sudden death of Bubble Dragon, many people left a message under his last dynamic: May there be no buffet in heaven.
Although this time the buffet is innocently suffered, the change in attitude towards the buffet means that consumer awareness has improved.
The post-90s and post-00s demand for food has jumped from birth to the third level of Maslow's demand. This year's discerning young diners care more about the quality of the ingredients, the way they cook, and the environment and atmosphere of the restaurant than they do.
The once-popular Golden Leopard closed its last mainland store in Beijing in 2017.
The high cost of maintaining the tone has led to the heavy burden of the Golden Leopard store and the tight operation of funds. But this is just one of the reasons why the Golden Leopard went out of business, and more importantly, the new generation of consumers no longer see the Golden Leopard as social currency and bragging capital.
Noble money leopards can't resist the escalation of the consumption wave, let alone those cheap self-service brands that make their fortunes at a good price.
The last straw that crushed the camel was the food quality management that cafeterias were clearly unable to keep up with.
In 2013, the Golden Leopard was accused of selling fake shark fins made of gelatin, the image of the tall restaurant was greatly reduced, and the customers were also lost in large quantities; the affordable restaurants Jinhans and Han Lixuan were successively exposed to the hygiene problems of using fake meat:
KimHans self-service barbecue has exploded with the same problems as Ichiso Sukiyaki, and there are not only problems such as dishware not disinfecting, the smell of grilled meat is covered up with heavy spices, the secondary use of expired snack ingredients, and even the amazing operation of other guests eating leftover meals and returning to the table.
There are also problems such as the detection of duck meat ingredients in steakhouses that are sold by steak chains, and the lamb rolls of shabu lamb are colored and pressed from duck meat.
Even if it is not a long-term visit to the cafeteria, the occasional meal of gastroenteritis caused by unhealthy ingredients is enough, and the diners who are more concerned about health have tacitly chosen to stay away from the cafeteria.
At the same time, the frequent occurrence of negative news such as Chinese tour groups in Thailand to grab prawns has rapidly reduced the public's perception of buffets, and the trend of ten years ago has now become a "not very high-grade" consumption.
When men and women go on blind dates, it is better to go to a Starbucks of thirty per capita than a cafeteria; the same is true of the stereotypes presented in various film and television works: in "Parasite", after a pair of sons and daughters of a poor family successfully invaded the upper class family, the "celebration banquet" of the whole family is to go to the local driver's canteen to eat a buffet.
Alas, it's not that I can't eat enough, what kind of buffet to eat.
Written by: tt, jonas
Edit: Sebastian
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