Text | Zhang Ling
About the author:Zhang Ling, a native of Jiaxing, likes a corner of traditional culture in his heart, likes to walk the streets and alleys in his spare time, and feels the real life of the city's ancient towns and countryside with his footsteps, and sometimes records it.
Speaking of jokes, when I was a child, I vaguely heard "Chang'an" (ancient Chang'an, today's Xi'an), and I thought it was Chang'an Town in Haining, so about Chang'an, it has always been a bit of an illusion, and it has never been clear.
It takes an hour to navigate from Jiaxing, not close, and it is almost close to Hangzhou.
Before coming, my friend took care of Chang'an and said that we must go to see the historical and cultural heritage of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, the Chang'an Dam left by the ancestors during the Tang Zhenguan period (627-649) and the three gates (upper gate, middle gate, lower gate) and Liangao (reservoir) built in the Song Dynasty, a national treasure-level water conservancy project that makes the descendants of Jiaxing water conservancy talk about it.
After all, they solved the problem of the 1.5 to 2 meter drop between the water level of the Shangtang River in Hangzhou and the water level of Chang'an Port at that time, and ensured the smooth low and high navigation of ships from south to north, which was the evidence that the mainland's water conservancy engineering technology was leading the world at that time, and it was also the prototype of the Gezhou Dam of the Yangtze River that amazes the world now, and it is said that it was not until the end of the 80s that it withdrew from the stage of history. It can only be said that Chang'an Dam is awesome!
The weather is exceptionally good, although the name of winter, but 20 degrees is also close to spring, the car has not stopped steadily, we jumped out of the car, inquired about the location of the old street, looked at the map marked with cultural landscape symbols on the street, I think it was the right place, the first stop I wanted to see the school located in the "Haining Middle School" (actually in Chang'an) The school began in the eleventh year of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty (1672), formerly known as Chang'an Academy (there are relics such as archways from the map).
In the fifth year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty (1800), the "Yangshan Academy" was ordered by Ruan Yuan, the governor of Zhejiang, to "look up to the mountains", which opened self-cultivation, Chinese language, legal system, history, English, arithmetic, naturalism, finance, gymnastics and other courses, and once invited the Japanese to teach Japanese.
It's a pity that the doorman's sentence "There are regulations from the superiors, you can't enter, you can't see" almost folded our desire for Chang'an just now, and it was useless to say all the good things, and we had to give up when we looked at the doorman's smug expression as if he had repelled the attack of the "enemy".
In the Chang'an Memory Hall of the Laojie Temple Lane, there is an introduction to the origin of the temple and the canal culture, the culture of the Qing Dynasty in Chang'an and the vicissitudes of the millennium, etc., the Chang'an style of the old foundation, Chang'an of the Republic of China and the layout of the old street, places of interest and historic sites, etc., through the characteristic scenes such as rural style, rural rhyme, rural customs, rural scenery, and rural sound, it is worth seeing the long history and humanity of Chang'an.
Especially when I saw that the Jiangnan dialect was often spoken, but I didn't know how many words to write, such as this little girl was quite "嬁dēng" like 嬁, the banknote "囥囥 kàng" good 囥, the small wine "渳mǐ" a mouthful of 渳, etc., cordial. Next door to it are the Chang'an Banquet Hall, the Shadow Puppet Culture Heritage Hall, the Bronze Art Museum, the Luotang Academy and Yufeng Brewing, which features brewing and experience.
About Chang'an banquet ball, we must mention more, I believe many people know that Chang'an is because of banquet ball. Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong went down to the south of the Yangtze River along the canal, and saw the scenery of the south of the Yangtze River, as Bai Juyi said, "The south of the Yangtze River is good, the scenery is old, the sunrise river flowers are red, and the river water is as green as blue in spring, so you can not remember the south of the Yangtze River."
I didn't feel that my heart was full of joy, and I was still unsatisfied, so I paid a private visit to Chang'an Town on the neighborhood lane, wine shop and teahouse to see, unconsciously came to Xinghua Village, when it was almost noon, the stomach gurgled up, and saw a family at the head of the village curling smoke, so I wanted to get something to eat with my entourage, as long as it was fresh and clean to fill the stomach, the head of the household was very enthusiastic, but because there was no preparation, where did the fresh dishes come from?
In a hurry, he chopped a silver carp in the tank into fish puree, and then mixed with green onion and ginger and other condiments, stirred into a ball, kneaded into fish balls, chopped the good meat skin and put it on the fish balls and put it in the wok to steam, Qianlong Ye looked at this prickly hairball-like thing steaming and fragrant, although he didn't know what the dish was, and didn't care about 3721, picked up the chopsticks and ate it, he felt that the outside was crispy and tender and the inside was both fresh and fragrant, very delicious, so he asked the master what kind of dish this is?
The owner said it was done temporarily, and there is no name yet. Qianlong Ye asked his entourage to take pen and ink, waved his pen and inscribed a couplet of "Xinghua Village drunk two banquets, Han fish full of dolphins and a ball", and told the owner with great interest that I give it the name of the banquet ball, one is that your family is safe every day, and the other is that you can enter the banquet of the official family.
The master knew that the imposing person in front of him was the emperor, so he hurriedly kowtowed and thanked him, and shouted long live. Since then, Chang'an banquet ball has become famous, regarded as the first dish on the banquet table, not only smooth and refreshing to eat, but also because the round banquet ball means "reunion and reunion". Have you ever eaten a fell?
Coming out of the banquet hall, I heard a burst of karaoke wafting out of a person's house, and the male host was singing Zhou Bingqian's "I Really Miss You", so he cheekily squeezed in and sang: I really miss you, I call for dawn at night......
Out of the temple alley, came to the West Street, although the stone slab is new, but it is also organically renewed.
Unconsciously attracted by the bursts of fragrance, it turned out to be the Internet celebrity store Zhu Agen Baked Cake Shop arrived, then one person came to one, the taste was actually mixed with a strong nostalgic taste unique to the south of the Yangtze River, not only warm, fragrant, crispy, and soft, it was unanimously agreed that it was better than Xincheng Lao Wang flatbread.
If you don't believe it, you can try it!
After eating the baked cakes, I got up on the road and was particularly strong, and I suddenly arrived at the middle street, and the old people walking in the street park sang and sang, danced, and blew, a harmonious scene, if Qianlong Ye saw it, he didn't know what kind of poem he would jump out of.
Ask Uncle Yi, what else to see in the east? What's more, is it a rainbow bridge and a dam at the top, it's a bit old.
Dozens of meters away from the Hongqiao is a modern cement bridge, I heard that the people in order to protect the Hongqiao is after a struggle, otherwise and many other places along the road, the bridge has already been the end of the ancient bridge, but also the achievement of Chang'an Town's most iconic Hongqiao (built at the end of the Tang Dynasty, rebuilt in 1852) stands so far, fortunately!
The middle street is quite long, along the Shangtang River there are still old houses of blue bricks, mottled walls and horse-head walls, the old shops that sharpen scissors and match keys are flashing with the appearance of the old times, and occasionally there are eaves corridors and water pavilions, walking on the stone road, the gentle taste of Jiangnan is still full.
The stout loquat tree by the river may have been in the past 100 years, chatting with the uncles and aunts who are basking in the sun, and the harvest is not only calm, happy, sincere, and enthusiastic, but also the knowledge and sense of support for the old town.
Like Emperor Long back then, when he was tired of shopping, he naturally wanted to be hungry, so he followed the excitement to find food, "Let's eat a bowl of noodles", saw a steaming noodle shop in front of him, and hurriedly rushed over, and when he entered the store, he saw that it was full of people, and he had to quit after knowing that this was also an Internet celebrity shop, and there were many diners inside and outside the town.
So we came to a local opened about to become an Internet celebrity store "Old Street Hotel", the door is a small alley, the inside is quite large, all the way to the river, a few square tables near the river, and then a few cherry trees, peach trees, persimmon trees, loquat trees, you can imagine the spring flowers, fruity fragrance fluttering under the tree and three or five confidants drinking tea, chatting and playing cards, listening to the sound of the boat to eat old wine, it is estimated that the mood will not be worse than that of Emperor Long.
The boss is young and kind, took over the restaurant that has been open in his house for many years, seeing that we are the first time to come, he recommended a few side dishes, we also had a few sips of wine, and ate in the company of the sun almost forgot that there is still half of the old street to be skewered, just met a kitten around under our feet, like to ask us to stay with it......
After "one dam and three gates" to appreciate the wisdom of the ancients, they turned to the East Street, I didn't expect to preserve it better than the West Street, but for some reason, the whole street was almost empty, I heard an uncle say that the government took back the whole street, I don't know what the specific use is, and then asked a few locals, all of them said that they didn't know.
The old house of the Chen family jumped out of the East Street, and it is also a rare Western-style building school on the street, and it is also quite arrogant from a distance, when the Japanese had set up camp there and served as a water prison, unfortunately we caught up with the weekend to close the door.
I wanted to go to see the old railway station in Chang'an, but it was covered by a barbed wire fence wrapped with withered vines, but near it I found a bunker left by the Japanese army invading China--- a physical object carrying a period of China's humiliating history, and a small exhibition hall is being built around it.
So we were able to go inside to see that the bathroom, bedroom, storage room, ammunition depot, lookout room, shooting holes, etc. in the bunker were still the same (to be examined), and looking at the thick walls and shooting holes, our thoughts were also a little heavy...... I hope that after the completion of this period of history, I will tell more future generations that this period of history will not forget the suffering of our land.
Pacing and pacing, unconsciously came to the Juehuang Temple that was founded in the Tang Dynasty, last year passed away Taiwan Fo Guang Shan Xingyun Master once praised Chang'an Town as the "Buddha Land", think it is also the meaning of "blessed land", and the Buddhist world first has the Queen Jue has a spiritual hidden saying that also put on a layer of mystery for the Juehuang Temple.
Chang'an, an ancient town that is old but still growing naturally, an ancient town that immerses firewood, rice, oil and salt into the years, an ancient town that still sticks to its original intention, retains its primitive, simple charm, and is self-sustaining and prosperous, an ancient town with its own twelve hours, and an ancient town that is quite beautiful in my eyes.
Although we have a hasty reunion with you today, we will come again for the "Yangshan Academy"!
I wish Chang'an and Chang'an!
[From the public account: Nanhu Ling]
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